And it only costs $1200 ... :

YuengLinger said:

Eldar said:

Yes, I have a 5DIV and I agree. The manual focus on a 5DIV is a lot better than previous 5D models. It is not as good as it would be with a precision focusing screen, like the S-type, but it is clearly an improvement.

Click to expand...

Thanks, Eldar. Did you notice a granularity or grid effect in certain light when focusing on smaller subjects? Subtle, but there in mine.

Click to expand...

No, I can't say I have. I'll check next time.

I tested the G2 today with both Nikon and Canon full frame bodies for more than 1 hour - mostly with my canon. The Canon was 5dMK3. Here are the issues I saw with canon
- Turning on the VC makes the focus a bit weird. It felt like finding the focused object but just stopping short of it then then locking the correct focus - something like a two step process. Observed this when i completely defocussed the lens each time. In normal situations - when focus doesnt have to travel thru all the distance, I didnt see this issue (Nikon also had this but lot lot less times)
- Locking focus is a tiny bit slower with VC on in mode 1 and 3. I didnt test mode 2.
- In VC mode 1, the view finder appears to jump a bit. Doesnt affect the image quality though.
- Sometimes the VC took a while to respond after half-pressing the shutter in mode 1. But I couldnt reliably reproduce this issue with any particular sequence.

The difference is simply whether the selected AF point is stored separately for one-point and all-point modes, or if it's the same for both of them.

Hi Tom.
If I was earning with my camera I would get a 5DIII or maybe even the 5DIV, as it is when I got the 7DII bought for me I was told no more new cameras for a while. To get the 1DsIII I have to sell my 5D and 7D and if they go for the market price (which they should, both are in great condition and the 7D I know to be in the lower shutter count range) I should only need to add a few quid to cover the new 'toy'.
I think I got the camera for a steal at £750 despite the missing bits, it was traded in by a customer known to the reputable shop so is not burning my fingers. ;D
Yes it does have liveview shooting available but has no AF and unlike the 40D it does not even have the ability to flip the mirror and phase AF.
Yes it is easy to get up in the ISO, the shot of the Camaro was ISO 1000 and with the camera maxing out at 1600 apart from the 'H' setting (artificially pushed ISO 1600?) it may be a problem but hey ho the shot can get taken and pushed with DxO and binned if it is crap!
Yes it is heavy, but I'm sure I could tell the difference in the AF speed over the 7DII. Of course that could just be me subconsciously justifying a purchase! ;D
Yes they can get tiresome, but I don't carry a backpack any more, I just carry the bodies on the blackrapid sling with the 70-200 f2.8 L II on one, 100-400L II on the other, a 1.4X III in one pocket and a standard zoom either Σ17-70 or now 24-105 f4 depending on the pockets!
Provisions, food and drink? We are out for a jolley and that is part of it though if I were working I would probably pack that too due to the cost at these sorts of venues.
Thanks for the comparison link, very interesting.

Cheers, Graham.

tomscott said:

Always loved the 1DsMKIII but with the 5DMKIII being new on SLRHut for £1650 (which is where I got mine many years ago) I think I would take it everyday. Unless the 1D was stupidly cheap. http://slrhut.co.uk/product/ID982C5/5260B002_Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-III-Digital-Camera-_Body-Only_-/

As you know I shoot similar subjects to you Graham and had the 5DMKIII in yellow weather warnings with torrential rain for 6+ hours, tropical rainforrests for weeks, extremely dry desserts and not had issues.

When I was considering the 5D I wrote a vs thread against the 1D and 5D and most people said 5 over 1 because its faster in operation, higher ISO is better apart from 100 but its very close. 3200 and above is day and night and with racing I'm sure as you know once you get later in the day or its cloudy getting up to 1600 is pretty easy if you want to stop motion. Very similar dynamic range, hugely superior AF, screen resolution, auto ISO, faster and longer burst rates, does it have live view? cant remember etc etc Its also a heavy camera and at still get 1000 images out of a battery on the 5 although the rate does go down under 50%. Like you I use 2 cameras when I'm shooting 7DMKII and 5DMKIII and when you've got one with a big lensand another camera with a more standard lens and a backpack full of lenses and provisions shooting 6+ hours a day can get really tiring really quickly.

For controlled portraiture I would say 1D because the colour is beautiful and you can use it low in the ISO but for motorsport... and documentation there are better cameras now a days at very good prices.

I couldn't find a compelling reason to buy one apart from the fact it a 1 series. I used to love using grips but never use them now, don't have a need for them. Especially in motorsport, don't often shoot portrait and if the bat gets lower than 50 I just swap it out.

Quick difference overview.

http://snapsort.com/compare/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-III-vs-Canon_EOS-1Ds_Mark_III/detailed

Click to expand...

Having used the mk ii for a littler over a year now, my biggest wishes would be (as stated by many others) better noise levels at higher ISO and wifi instead of GPS. (or in addition to)

I have never used the GPS once since I bought it, but I would use wifi if it had it. The EOS Remote app is quite handy with my 70d.

Fatalv said:

ahsanford said:

neuroanatomist said:

In that case, perhaps you would be so good as to explicitly state the formula and weightings that DxO uses to determine their overall score. While you're at it, please also explain why the majority determinant of their scores consider only performance at base ISO.

Click to expand...

You have a greater likelihood of Trump releasing his tax returns than DXO releasing the specifics of their methods. I'd love to see either the *very* complicated polynomial that governs the overall lens score calculation... or the revision history of said equation that shows that resolution was deprioritized on/around the release of the 5DS R. ;D

- A

Click to expand...

+1

We could exhaust an entire thread of jokes about "things that will happen before DXO releases their algorithm"

At this point I don't know why it even makes headlines at CR. As far as I'm concerned, none of their data is to be trusted unless an algorithm or repeatable experiment is shown. It's akin to trying to wade through and find the truths of a habitual liar

Click to expand...

Could not agree more DXOMark testing methods are flawed, I don't work for Canon but Ive tested hundreds of cameras without a lens, testing the lens & then the combination together. We have very exacting standards that are repeatable and using the high resolution CIPA chart with an even field illumination sphere, f stop machines, MTF, projection, etc.
We can even show results on a theatre screen with split screen to compare lenses & cameras . Many of the Canon lenses DXOMark listed as "average" were better and we test batches of lenses not one. We can also very accurately measure DR (its amazing to see the difference sometimes between different cameras of the same type including high end cinema video cameras).
This does tend to show up the poor Canon cameras and lenses as well as the very good ones but that's no different to any other manufacturer including Leica, Cooke & Zeiss lenses.

Ladislav said:

GMCPhotographics said:

Here's a few recent shots from a trip to London, not all cityscapes are wide. If a cityscape is a landscape in a city, then detail or telephoto shots surely are included in the remit?

Click to expand...

Amazing pictures

How did you do this one? Is it fish eye lens?

GMCPhotographics said:

Click to expand...

Is this the cloister in Westminster Abbey?

GMCPhotographics said:

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

I used a canon EF8-15L fisheye. But any fully circular fisheye lens will do.

infared said:

I bought the Rokinon SP 14mm f/2.4....I think is fantastic! Got a nice discount on it, too.
Hope they make a 24mm lens of similar quality in their new SP line, also.

Click to expand...

I really like this lens, too. So much so that I paid full price. From whom did you get a discount?

A 24mm would be nice. For me, a 20mm would be even better.

Yes, sorry for going OT.

drmikeinpdx said:

Nice to see that the 77D will have an interval timer and be able to do time lapse movies. Is that pretty standard on recent Canon DSLRs and Mirrorless bodies?

Click to expand...

It's standard in the double-and single-digit series DSLRs. The M5 and the M6 have a timelapse movie mode but no interval timer for capturing sequences of still photos.

rfdesigner said:

Maiaibing said:

vrpanorama said:

I have owned a canon 6d, and replace it with a canon 5dsr, which I am really happy with. What I am missing the dynamic range that had the 6d in my opinion.

Click to expand...

?? 5DS/R dynamic range is somewhat better than on the 6D.

Click to expand...

not per pixel or from ISO800 and up when you down res the 5Ds to 20Mpix (fair comparison).

Click to expand...

You do not need to downsample anything.

5DS/R has higher DR than the 6D until iso 1200. After that they are practically alike.

I have lived in several parts of the world, and travelled to many more. Particularly countries in Europe and Asia. I was born in, and currently live in Australia. I have visited Italy a number of times.

My current main camera is a Canon 7D, and I have a few 'backup' (older) XXXD (Rebel) series. My main lens is the Canon 15-85mm, which provides a wonderfully flexible focal length range. I have many many lenses, including the 10-18mm and 24mm STM. Both these are favourites for travel (light, and IS in the UWA).

For Italy, I think having an UWA is definitely high on the list. For a 2 lens setup with my family, I would personally take 10-18mm STM and then also the Canon 15-85mm as the all purpose, and for candids (and 'family shots'). If it was to grow into 3 lens setup, I would probably add a telezoom (I take either a 55-250mm STM or my larger, but still portable 70-300mm L). The 70-300mm L is a high quality lens, though the 55-250mm STM is no slouch either. I agree with earlier comments that travelling light and enjoying the time away (with wife and children, and/or friends) - is very important.

Regarding the 24mm STM, I love this lens. It provides a great FoV on an APS-C / crop sensor DSLR. Bbut I am not sure that I would take it on holidays, as I have that focal range covered with my 15-85mm, and in some sense it is possible you could 'cover it' with the 18mm tele end of your UWA (10-18mm STM), and go for something more tele (e.g. 85mm range).

I regularly organise photography outings (including weekend and all day outings) here in Australia for friends (and 'informal students'). For these occasions I pack a LowePro backpack full of glass and accessories, and usually take a tripod along. But when I am travelling on holiday with my family, I avoid taking a tripod if at all possible. While 'tripodless' (obviously) limits night shooting, I appreciate IS for some low light / possible shots. Or use walls, seats, other solid objects for the occasional long exposure.

Taking 2 (even identical) cameras (if you have them) can be important, so you don't need to use (or 'loose') your and your family's (!) time when you change lenses... and often 'change the lens back'. Having one camera in your hand/ round your neck, and the other in a small shoulder bag 'ready for grab and shoot' works (very) well for me.

Enjoy your holiday, Cory, and time balanced between quality time with your wife and 2 children, as well as the 'photographer' experience!

Paul 8)

Rampuri said:

IglooEater said:

Rampuri said:

IglooEater said:

Waaaaiiiit... the 16-35 takes 24 hours to make and costs $2000. If production cost is $1500 and if materials are a third of the cost, that leaves $42/hr for the workers and machinery. suddenly that lens looks dirt cheap.

Click to expand...

It might take 24 hours to make the 16-35, but it doesn't mean they produce just one per day. Each machine in the production line produces parts continuously. So it takes one lens 24 hours to proceed from the beginning of the line to the end, but at the same time there are many other lenses produced.

Click to expand...

Lol! Of course they're making more than one lens at a time! I made zero reference to that. I was referring to the lens as a unit, not the factory. :

Click to expand...

There was a hidden reference - "that leaves $42/hr for the workers and machinery". Because hour rate per unit on a production line producing many units at the same time makes no sense. So I thought you got it wrong .

Click to expand...

Yeeeaaa... that wasn't very clear. That leaves $42/hr for the workers and machinery for that lens. it wouldn't make sense to analyze the whole plant that way. But it really does give a monetary value of sorts on the individual product as a unit. Not in the sense that this is what it costs, but in the sense that If they're not making one, they're making another. Thus they will assumably be expecting a similar $/hr/unit on whatever other lenses they make on the same line. It means they're charging the client $42/hr on there product, irregardless of their end revenu or how many units they produce.

I really shouldn't be on line when I'm tired... i'm no good at communicating even when I'm awake....

Considering that:

- many Compact Prime CP.2 lenses are cine versions of Zeiss Classic lenses
- most Zeiss Classic lenses have been updated as Milvus lenses

it would indeed not be surprising to see updated Compact Prime CP.2 lenses as cine versions of the Milvus lenses.

Y'all come over to the other post, it's been settled.

I have the same pair of flashes; Yongnuo makes a little widget about an inch wide and three inches long that receives the radio signal. You put the ii on it off-camera and use the iii-rt as radio master sitting on the camera. Works awesome. YNE3-RX and they're on Amazon for less than $40. Then when you want the on-camera transmitter with both flashes off, this widget will let you keep using the ii. Note this widget is a receiver only, so the ii on it will always be a slave unit.

Yes, I noticed the same issue with a Yongnuo 50 1.8 on an EOS 650. Can't really expect perfection from a $50 lens. It's funny, because the lens has Yongnuo DIGITAL printed on it. I always just assumed it was some cheesy marketing thing to make it look more high-tech. Turns out it is truly just a digital lens. :

Jack. I understand now. It would be an advantage to always have the selected square lit.

Now that these guys have had their images and their vehicle type made public, they're screwed. No way they'll stay hidden forever.

I have a Canon 5D III and a recently acquired Metz 45CL-4 Digital, which came with a Metz SCA 3045 (and a Nikon foot). I have been told by Metz's superb advice desk that I need an SCA 3102 M6 hot shoe to get E-TTL working. For now I can let the flash measure the exposure when linked to the camera in manual mode via a regular synch cord. That works fine.

It has been difficult to source an SCA 3102 M6, not easy to find at all, though at the time of writing I think I have two on the way, via friends in other countries!

Incidentally, I now have the newer NiMH battery packs and 970 chargers (B46 set, about £75), which work with both my recent acquisition and my trusty old Metz 45 CT-5s. Metz assure me that they too can be connected to my Canon and can't harm it as they 'are equipped with a low voltage-ignition (ISO 10330)'.

Canon is offering deals thru company discount programs, the 5D MK IV is around $2940 including the remote microphone for employees / retires. This is direct from the Canon Store. There are also sites like Greentoe which negotiate discounts.

jolyonralph said:

Don Haines said:

This is because the shorter the mount, the greater the angle that light will hit the sensor....

Click to expand...

Not totally correct.

This is ENTIRELY dependent on lens design.

An EF lens attached to an adaptor projects light onto the FF Mirrorless sensor in exactly the same way as it would do on a standard DSLR EF mount camera.

IF your new EF-M lens was to have the elements as far back as could physically fit then yes, there could be a problem (although a problem that Sony seem to have solved with FE lenses.)

But... there is also a middle ground. A new FF EF-M lens could fit somewhere in the middle, ie have some gap between the rear elements and the mount, but still be closer to the sensor than an EF lens.

Then it becomes an issue of working out the best combination of size/weight and optical performance that you can get for these lenses. For many optical formulae there is likely to be a size/weight benefit to using EF glass while retaining excellent optical quality.

Using the EF-M mount gives you the flexibility to do this. Sticking to the EF mount might require new EF Mirrorless lenses that stick further into the body than EF-S does, but I think that's a less elegant solution than using EF-M mount.

Click to expand...

Adding "empty" space at the rear of the lens negates the size advantage of the smaller flange distance. Others have reported that this is what Sony was forced to do after their early lenses for the A7 series had very poor results. It is debatable whether these larger lenses would be worth it in order to keep the smaller flange distance which would allow using other brand lenses with adapters. Using these other lenses would seem to be the only real advantage to the EF-M mount, in my opinion.

To me it looks like the sample image has some tilt applied, certainly that is how the dof falls off when you apply tilt. There is a very good spread of dof on the street yet nothing sharp at all in the top third of the image.

Chapman Baxter said:

Maybe Yongnuo will be along shortly with some cheap copies.

Click to expand...

;D ;D ;D