unfocused said:

archiea said:

...Well here goes:

...High seed sec for shutter. 1/250th at least...latest and greatest, if not better, live view focusing via sensor...1dX level weather sealing...The 5D should just be a smaller 1dx when it comes to weather sealing...have the 1Dx and the 5ds/r's image based intelligent tracking sensor that uses the dedicated processor...1 cfast and 1 Cf...

...I think that covers it.

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Sounds like you are expecting to get a 1DxII for the price of a 5D IV. I think you will be disappointed.

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The 7D Mark II has many of those features. Even the x0D bodies now get the DPAF in LV, so it's a lock the 5DIV will have it. Roger Cicala said the 7DII was by far the best weather sealed camera he's ever taken apart (which would include any 1-series body up to and including the 1D X). The 7DII has iTR and I think we'd all be shocked if the 5DIV doesn't. Again, even the x0D bodies and maybe even the latest Rebels are getting RGB+ir metering even if they are not getting the extra processing power to use it for iTR. The 5DIV will likely have one CFast and one (non-crippled) SD slot.

So that leaves an x-sync of 1/250 vs. the current 1/200. 1/3 stop faster flash sync is "expecting too much?"

neuroanatomist said:

Ok, I suppose I get the what, but not really the why.

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Thank you very much for the info

I see now I made a mistake.

The 5D3's CFA is daylight-balanced, which is why the red/blue multipliers are equal at around 3500K (or at least 3500K is where they generally seem to be equal to me)

As you mention; daylight is blue-dominant, so a daylight-balanced camera/film should give images with blue tones. This matches what I get from film, so now that makes more sense

This is both good and bad news to me, as it leaves me back at square-one in terms of what I'm trying to achieve as the end-result:
I'm attempting to get the 5D3 to take photos that match those I get on film, but so far all my attempts have been less than satisfying.
When I started this thread I had a small hope that using physical color-filters could alter the way the sensor is fed and thus give metamerism-effects not achievable via digital manipulation alone, but given the 5D3 is already daylight-balanced that idea doesn't seem very useful anymore.

Well, back to studying some more

Incidentally, color-filters on digital still could have some merit I think, if not for color-changes then for noise-reduction: http://www.libraw.org/articles/magenta-filters-on-digicam.html

9VIII said:

Hmm... Mitakon managed to make one:

That Mitakon is a bit perplexing.
Canon goes as far as to glue the electronic contacts onto the rear lens element in order to fit 85f1.2 into their mount. The Mitakon is manual focus so it doesn't have data contacts, that makes the Canon mount version simpler, but at Lenstip.com (http://www.lenstip.com/443.1-Lens_review-Mitakon_Speedmaster_85_mm_f_1.2.html) even on the Nikon version they say it doesn't have a lot of vignetting, that's actually one of the best aspects of the lens.

??? Maybe it actually isn't "really" 85f1.2 on Nikon, but it's close enough they can afford to fudge the numbers?

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True enough. The fact that it has no electric contacts may indeed help squeeze things in there.

Now that is an interesting point. It might not be f/1.2 on Canon either. I googled a bit to see if I couldn't find some design information or a patent, but with no success. I'd love to see some transmission tests on this lens.

Here's my entry. What do you think?
https://www.instagram.com/p/BIArAf7AUYw/

Shot on the 5D Mark II and a 7D (for slo-mo). Those cameras are so old now but still good with the right lenses!

TexPhoto said:

This reminds me of a conversation with a new photographer who explained to me they only shot in manual, never used the meter, and always nailed the exposure. I said not possible, they disagreed. I finally asked for a demo and they pulled out the camera and began adjust the controls seemingly randomly. What are you doing? I asked. "Lineing up the little arrow to 0 on the thingy." I could not figure out who was more stupid, them for not knowing that was the light meter, me for not realizing newer cameras still display the light meter reading when in manual.

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??? :
The former.

I didn't even get a notice about the last competition prizes...

8) I generally prefer an assistant to hold diffusion panels unless they're huge! For modest sized diffusers, I use this product from Photoflex:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/42107-REG/Photoflex_DL_BHOLDER_Telescopic_Litedisc_Holder.html
These are GREAT quality, but you may find low cost alternatives on eBay. I destroyed a number of poorly engineered cheapies before spending on the well made Photoflex holders.

If I'm using a 6 foot/2 meter diffuser, clamping it to a rod between two lightstands works fine if it needs to be vertical. Check these Manfrotto products out to see what I mean. You may be able to invent a low cost DIY version.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5217-REG/Manfrotto_2983_2983_Adjustable_Background_Holder.html
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/648381-REG/Manfrotto_1314B_Background_Support_System.html

If it needs to be horizontal or angled, set up two more lightstands with a rod between them, set up the suitable heights and clamp your diffuser on. Remember if you're working outdoors, these things catch the slightest gust of wind.

On the subject of DIY, I have seen very effective, easily assembled and dismantled frames for diffusers made from a stiff grade of electrical conduit, incorporating the compatible 90 degree corners. Depending on the required size, incorporate one or two cross braces. Create triangular pockets at each corner of your diffusion fabric, and stretch it onto the frame.

-pw

Neils123,
I checked my home computer, the (Windows) Canon Map Utility is 1.6.0.2 and when I started it up, the update dialog box came up, as in attached. I have not updated this version, yet.
You may check with Canon for the update.
-r

niels123 said:

lion rock said:

mine is 1.7.1.3. Date is 2016.
I think there is an automatic update built in.
-r

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I can't find any update function

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chasinglight said:

Eldar said:

Glad to see my fellow Vikings made it over

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Yes, they had some trouble getting over here...they traveled over 3500 miles on an authentic Viking ship to almost be thwarted by pilot fees in Lake Michigan...

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Wrong. That was a PR stunt.

Impressive shots, though..

Photos must be from the same people that take UFO photos..

GuyF said:

serenaur said:

Now I will wait until sometime around Christmas...

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Well, at least you have that to look forward to!

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It'll be a better gift than socks and a new pair of slippers! ;D

Pentax K-1 is the great camera that is having many great specifications like exposure compensation, sensitivity, cropping, bracketing, high dynamic range imaging, and many more without entering into the menu system. This is the best camera with the powerful 5-axis stabilization system which can counteract pitch, horizontal, yaw, vertical and roll movements and provide up-to 5 stop shutter speed advantage. The picture quality is really awesome it can mount a lens designed for APS-C body and sensor data will get cropped automatically, yielding 15.3-megapixel image. The image quality is similar as the Nikon's. this is really perfect for the camera lovers and can be available in very affordable price:

dilbert said:

It is a random sampling which is the correct method to use.

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unfocused said:

It's not a random sample and doesn't claim to be. It's a compilation of statistics from specific photo sharing sites. Nothing random and nothing sampled.

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Maiaibing said:

unfocused said:

Maiaibing said:

...The iphone is certainly represented in this random sample...

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Let's try this again. This is NOT a random sample and it does not claim to be.

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You can write that 100 times and it will be wrong every time if you are talking about statistics...

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[quote author=Wikipedia]
In statistics, a simple random sample is a subset of individuals (a sample) chosen from a larger set (a population). Each individual is chosen randomly and entirely by chance, such that each individual has the same probability of being chosen at any stage during the sampling process, and each subset of k individuals has the same probability of being chosen for the sample as any other subset of k individuals.[1] This process and technique is known as simple random sampling, and should not be confused with systematic random sampling. A simple random sample is an unbiased surveying technique.[/quote]

I give up. That sound you hear is me banging my head against the wall.

mnclayshooter said:

It also builds stats for search engine listings... the more hits it gets the higher it will be placed once actual information is available. call it a head-start, if you will. Same idea as what you were saying... that there's an actual motive behind it, most likely.

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Wished I could do the same for my YouTube videos.. LOL

Great job Canon!

Sharlin said:

dak723 said:

What I really don't get is why does anyone care? DSLRs and Mirrorless are not two sports teams that we root for. So, why does anyone care what percentage of each are sold? They do not compete with one another. They are all cameras. Buy the type you want. Why care which sells more? As long as enough cameras are sold and the companies stay in business, that's all that matters.

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For some people it is definitely like sports. Whether it's Star Wars vs. Star Trek, Emacs vs. vi, Linux vs. Windows, Canon vs. Nikon, people have always been eager to pick sides and beat the proverbial dead horse until it's just a mushy lump of proverbial red goo. It's in our hunter-gatherer psyche or something.

Myself, I don't care about the sports teams either...

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Well, my take was different, I took the "all is still not well" from the OP to represent the declining sales of MILC as a whole. Which is not good whether you are in the DSLR camp or the mirrorless. We all want/need a healthy market to exist, one that is big enough for healthy competition so we continue to see great products available to us.

However my personal take is a few months or even one year does not equal a trend, especially taking into account certain systemic, global issues that affect a given quarter or year. In short, the sky is not falling (yet).

C4userguy,

Thanks for your advice. I ended up ordering a water proof backpack and I have a water proof bag also. Let's me try both and I can ultimately use which one works best after I get a chance to understand the trip a little better.

Have a GREAT day!
tom

It'll probably be huge & heavy, but I want it anyway .

Anybody worried about sharpness is entirely missing the point of Canon's two f1.2 lenses.

AlanF said:

The Mk 1 is better on FF than on APS-C, and was more acceptable on my 5DIII. You can see the comparisons on APS-C on TDP:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=972&Camera=736&Sample=0&FLI=4&API=1&LensComp=113&CameraComp=736&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=7&APIComp=0

The lenses look much closer on the 1DS III

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Yeah, this is what I thought about while reading this thread. The higher pixel density in APS-C cameras (and I guess the 5Ds!) really does highlight raw resolution differences. Though I guess corner softness is a lesser concern with crop sensors.

Good news. Now I am thinking of part-exchanging a 5D3 with 24-105 for a 5D4 with 24-105 II

They calibrate the lens on a standard camera that is known to be accurate. They can calibrate the camera body as well.

I had my lens calibrated and it came back accurate on both of my bodies. It was in warranty, so I only had to pay shipping one way.

Bodies can also be off, so the combination of a body that is off plus a lens that is off may cancel or add. Lenses seem to be the issue most of the time.

Why not do a AFMA on your lens on each body. That's basically the same as calibrating the lens. The only reason I had my lens calibrated was that it needed a AFMA value of 17, and that was too close to the limit of 20.

Alex_M said:

Not to sound argumentive, but... at 50mm and f/1.4, say 3m distance to subject, the DoF for a Canon FF camera is 14cm in front and 16cm behind the focus point. Plenty deep enough (in my opinion) for the focus and recompose technique still be usable? Coming closer towards the subject makes the DoF shallow and not as easy to play with, of course, but I usualy shoot tight portrets with a longer lens anyway to avoid perspective distortion...
I guess, with the center being the only usable AF point, 6D users are forced to master their focus and recompose technique.. There is no other option

YuengLinger said:

Once you center focus and recompose at f/1.4, you've lost focus.

Manual focus? Expressions are fleeting, and though my subjects may be "startionary," I don't want them to remain rigid!

We can have a whole other thread about the right focusing screen for manual, and then compromising brightness...We can talk about how many of us can reliably MF now, and how many will still be able to do so in 5 years, 10 years...

But the important fact is that at very shallow DoF, slight movements of a subject, a sway, a tilt or turn, and you have to refocus. With MF, I'd never achieve anything like the keeper rate possible with world-class AF, which is what I get with my 5D3 and Canon lenses. I'd rather my subject be relaxed than concentrating on remaining still.

And by the way, to those who hyperventilate when their brands are challenged, I LOVE my Sigma 35mm 1.4 Art on my 5D3. Fast, reliable AF. The Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art, however, is a lost cause for me, sadly.

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Focus and recompose does work with the 50mm Art at 1.4 — if one knows when to do it and when not to do it, and also how much to do it. It's not always true to say "you've lost focus". It depends on the distance to the subject and the degree of recomposing. And there's always the option to stop down when needed. So I find the 50mm Art to be very, very useful.

I'm guessing there also looking to target people who own a 16-35mm lens and didn't feel that the Samyang at 14mm was quite wide enough to justify another purchase. For more distant landscape I might stick with stitching as the extra resolution is often needed for panoramic prints but I'm tempted for things like tree shots where its often not and stitching can be more difficult.

It will be interesting to see what happens with filters, I take it theres no built in thread but the removable hood does both mean filters can get closer to the lens(maybe making 100mm filters useable?) plus the hood attachment itself could be used for a filter holder rather than one of those larger more expensive ring like attachments for other bulb UWAs.

I owned the 70-300mm non-L for several years after buying a 60D. I bought it on CraigsList for around $375. A friend of mine still has his, though I traded mine for a 70-200mm L IS plus $500 cash. I had no complaints about it optically, but I didn't like it extending when zoomed out, nor the rotating front element. I cannot see flaming the lens. I have some nice pictures of small perched birds from 20 to 30 feet, about as close as I can get to a song bird before it flies off. The IS seemed quite good. I now have a 100-400mm II for similar shots with a 5DsR body. The new combo is much heavier and much more expensive. I still cannot get closer than a a few 10s of feet from a small bird.