Great, I'll give these tips a shot. Thanks.

neuroanatomist said:

It seems reasonable that algorithms intended to predict motion may not be optimal for static subjects.

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That's absolutely true. Camera pointing at a fixed targed, it will continually adjust, even if slightly. If it's a scene where AF was difficult in the first place like a small low contrast subject against a confusing fore/background (a bird inside a shrub, for example), it will sometimes jump way behind target, even though nothing related to the subject has moved. In my experience, anyway.

wickidwombat said:

Andyx01 said:

So like many, I have de-coupled the half shutter press from AF, and instead use the AF-ON button to Auto Focus.

Boom - no more hesitation when the trigger is pulled waiting for the lens to re-focus.

What's missing though is a second AF-ON button / Dedicated SERVO mode.

How many of you toggle between "Single Shot" and "Servo" ?

Is it just me, or it would it be sooooooo nice to have them both at your fingertip?

Switching between C1/2/3 isn't a good alternative, esp with a locked dial.

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5d3 and 1 DX can program the dof button to do this

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Just note that, at least on the 5D, it doesn't switch it permanently, only as long as the button remains depressed.

I generally have my camera in "M" + one shot. DOF preview switches to servo in case I need it unexpectedly, otherwise I do use the C modes for Av + servo, with various apertures and EC's dialed in.

Here’s my take:

The term "fine Detail" means same old stuff.

What is it going to take for Canon to get moving with sensor technology! With what appears to be yet another major camera launch with a sensor already behind the competition I just don't get it!
I hope I'm wrong but if they stuffed the 70D sensor into this body it is a failure from the day it is launched. The pace by which Canon takes in designing their replacements means you’re stuck with that junk for 4-6 years and by then my camera phone will probably be taking pictures better than that!

I was hoping Canon might break out of their mold and become innovative and put some real new technology sensor in their "Flagship APS-C model", I should know better. I would expect this model to exhibit best in class low light and larger DR of any APS-C camera on the market, after all we are talking about a Canon Flagship, top of the line model here right? I'm certain that the price will reflect that, but I have serious doubts that the camera will perform to that level. All the other features are a moot point if the sensor does not knock it out of the park in DR and low light performance.

That's my two cents, and I’m afraid Canon has lost me I think, just can't justify the investment any longer. I’ll keep what I have a while longer but I will be moving on, and likely away from Canon, as sad as I am to have to make the transition I see no future in this wretched course.

dgatwood said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

privatebydesign said:

As I said, my MkIII's (though they are 1Ds's) slow down when I put SD cards in them, the fastest rates I get with the various cards I actually own are when I just have Sandisk CF cards in the CF slot and nothing in the SD slot, every SD card I own is slower than the various CF cards I own.

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You are correct. Even the fastest SD cards are blown away by a fast CF card. In a mark III, the fastest write speed you will get with SD is 10mB/sec, most are 5. The card specs are misleading to a extreme.

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No, the specs of the flash card aren't misleading. Fast speeds simply require you to have a device that supports that speed. Unfortunately, the 5D Mark III doesn't support UHS-I, so the flash card falls back to pre-UHS-I speeds.

AFAIK, the only Canon DSLRs that support UHS-I speeds are the 6D, the 70D, the SL1, the T4i, and the T5i. On the 6D, the difference between a 30 MBps Sandisk card and a 95 MBps Sandisk card is like night and day.

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Yes, they are misleading. They only apply to a new card. As soon as you use the card, and do a normal in camera format, the speed drops to 10MB/sec. To recover the speed, you need to do a low level format / erase of the SD card. Do that with a 64GB card, and you will be waiting for it to finish for a long time, since it must write 0's to every memory sell on the card.

People believe the hype without understanding the limitations. You do not see the issue with CF cards. My 1D MK III was far faster with a CF card.

Sometimes the specs are up front about this. For example, they post a maximum and minimum speed here. The Maximum speed is only for a blank card in a camera with UHS-1. A Class 10 card has a 10MB/sec minimum write speed, and that is what users will see once the card has been written to.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/844763-REG/SanDisk_SDSDU_064G_A11_64GB_SDXC_Memory_Card.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/917678-REG/sony_sf64uy_tqmn_64gb_sdxc_memory_card.html

The only time I use the simulated low ISO settings is when I don't have an ND filter with me and I need to use a longer shutter speed.

Here is one opinion on the matter

http://blog.grantkaye.com/why-not-to-use-iso-50-on-canon-dslrs/

From
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/dynamic-range.htm

"In some digital cameras, there is an extended low ISO setting which produces less noise, but also decreases dynamic range. This is because the setting in effect overexposes the image by a full f-stop, but then later truncates the highlights — thereby increasing the light signal. An example of this is many of the Canon cameras, which have an ISO-50 speed below the ordinary ISO-100."

My opinion? Only use ISO50 when you need it and ISO100 won't give you the shot you want. Other than that, stick with the native ISOs. I would not normally shoot at ISO50.

ISO50 is an option that is nice to have. It has advantages in some circumstances and disadvantages in others.

Bokeh monster" should be only referred to the 200/2 IS- a giant among non supertele lenses, and a giant in its ability to produce blur.
Others, like the 85mm f1.2L/50mm f1.2L and Sigma 85mm f1.4/50mm f1.4 (A) the best, yet affordable options.

evebabe1981 said:

I have 35L 50L,135L,200L trying to get 1-2 new lens to travel

1.wish list/ (16-35f2.8 or f4) (24-70 f2.8II) (70-200mm f2.8 or 70-200mm f4)

2.would you sell 35L or 200L when u get 16-35 or 70-200?

3.which 3 lens would u take to travel? and street photography

advice anyone? thanks ^^

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I'd get the 16-35mm f4L IS and 70-200mm f4L IS (I have the f2.8L IS II but this one is more portable for travel). Sell the 200L, there is no need if you buy the 70-200mm lens. 35mmL competes in another league, it's 3-stop faster than the 16-35 f4L IS, keep it.
I am assuming you have FF body, hence take to travel the 16-35, 50L and 70-200.

mackguyver said:

The answer is no. Two 7.4V still output 7.4V as they are wired in parallel not combined to be 14.8V. The 1D X battery is 11.1V in comparison giving 1/3 higher voltage. The grip gives you a lot better balance with the heavy 85L and is great for shooting twice as long and in the portrait orientation, of course.

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Thanks Macguyver

You should look at the features of an L lens and see if you really need them then decide. So if they were to release a 35L II which compared to the 35 IS had f1.4, a better build, more aperture blades, red ring and weather sealing then is it for the extra $ and waiting time?

I own the 35 IS and reccomend it more. It's tack sharp wide open and I'd honestly be surprised if a it would be sharper than the IS. Just go buy the 35 Art if you want f1.4 or the 35 IS if you want something lighter with IS. You can always sell them if they do eventually announce a 35L II.

With new Canon stuff on the near horizon, I'm debating (If I decide to get the new 7DX) whether to sell my 7D or investigate having a conversion done on it for IR/Astrophotography. Does anyone have any recommendations as to who does the best aftermarket conversions? I've seen companies all over the globe advertising, but I want some feedback and personal experiences and what I should look into for the best set up.

Many thanks!

OK,

So it sounds like you didn't buy the camera new, because they come partially charged when new. And if it was new, you should have either returned the gear to the shop for an exchange or replacement, or send it to the Canon warranty service.

Anytime you buy used gear without vetting it, you take a huge gamble. If you purchased it used and the camera has issues with storage and batteries, it sounds like you need to bite the bullet and send it to Canon for repairs. My 1DX is an absolute flawless piece of technological utopia and your story is the first that I've heard. Good luck.

It's not the lens, it's the 5d3. When I owned the 5D3, I had problems with focusing using the 100-400 to shoot action. the 5d3 is simply too slow (when compared to 1d series bodies).

Coupled with a 1dx, the lens is phenomenal.

The 300mm f/2.8 II is my favourite lens and I preferentially use it on birding trips at home. But, the Tamron 150-600mm is good enough and is just so convenient for travel when I have to fly for a holiday. But, if I were to go on a specialist birding trip abroad or go on safari again I would take the 300 + extenders on the 5DIII and the 70-200 f/4 IS + 70D.

eml58 said:

SoullessPolack said:

Think about it this way. You'd be paying thousands more in order to take pictures where less and less stuff is in focus. Yes, I know that it is a fantastically sharp lens , but let's not kid ourselves about to the real reason most people lust after the lens. Super thin DOF/background separation.

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Umm, what ?????

Yes, that's why I bought my Canon 200f/2, my Zeiss Otus 55 f/1.4, my Canon 135f/2, my Zeiss 135 f/2, the stupidly thin DOF, what else ???? Well sharpness included of course, all these Lenses have that in spades.

The 200f/2 is I think just about affordable pain, can you or can't you, if you can, that's the end of the debate, once you have it I can pretty well Guarantee you will never get rid of it, well, at least until Canon release the 200f/2 V II.

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What's your opinion about the IQ of 200 f2.0 vs. Zeiss 135 f2.0? Do you have any samples to compare the bokeh and sharpness?

Another big reason I prefer Thinkpads - they have the best keyboards in the business. Also, ease of setup using the ThinkVantage Tools and System Update utility.

zim said:

On the basis that every time I post anything on this site I'm always wrong I say No chance :-X

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Then maybe you are wrong that you are ... wrong at every post ;D

sagittariansrock said:

As unfocused stated in a different context- you let your keyboard run off before your brain and now you have to keep it up... (paraphrasing)

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You can always tell that someone is about to provide a rational and logical proof of their statements when they open with personal insults ;D

1. I did not drop images into PS and zoom to 100%. As I clearly stated before, I set the image full screen on a 24" monitor to see how it looks. Being higher resolution, the 7D gains an advantage in terms of pixel downsampling,

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That depends entirely on the program used to view the samples and the scaling to screen resolution. Some popular viewers will chew up files, Apple's Preview being an infamous one. In print I would agree.

2. My comments about the 7D noise is not an opinion, it is an observation.

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To others it is an opinion until you provide examples.

What would be my reason for doing that?

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Oh, I believe that when you looked at your screen you saw noisy images. It just doesn't mean what you think it means.

3. Your guess was I don't know how to compare images. Well, as a scientist...blah blah blah...I am fortunate that the expert reviewers that accepted my work for publication didn't share your view!

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One has zero to do with the other. That said, I have an honest question: are you this defensive when someone critiques your scientific work?

Now, less cross-examine your rants:

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Oh boy here we go! ;D

4. You still haven't cited any "reproducible" tests or shown any of your own images.

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Just head on over to DPReview or Imaging Resource.

You really expect someone to comment on those low-res images without any ISO information?

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Those are 50% views of one of the Imaging Resource studio test scenes. I remember which cameras I picked...but now I forget the order...hmmm...guess that was Arias' point ;D

If you're so convinced, why not post some of your OWN 7D images at ISO 1600 without any de-noising.

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And listen to all the whining that I didn't do X or Y or Z right and that must be the reason it looks good but FF SURELY would be better if I had just shot it at the same time???

Nah...just go look at professionally produced and unbiased results. IR's studio scene can vary in lighting, but their Dave Box scene is strictly controlled.

And he is annoying and obnoxious. But he feels like a sweetheart compared to you.

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Let's get down to it, shall we? You said the 7D was noisier then the 5Dc and 50D. I said professional tests showed otherwise. You got hurt that I contradicted you. The rest of this is fluff.

So...is no one ever supposed to contradict you online? Point you to evidence that shows something other then your opinion? Is this how you practice science?

I made a subjective comment, stating my observation with my own camera. And you keep trying to prove that I have an 'opinion' against the 7D based on 'what?

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Not at all. Just pointing out your opinion is contradicted by hard evidence and is likely due to some other factor.

how you are making a normal, civil discussion into a fight.

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First you say that. Then you say...

7. I am surprised human nature sometimes amazes you. It should always amaze you, considering how foreign it should feel...

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Who is starting a fight? And who, btw, is blatantly violating forum rules? Did I personally attack you or insult you once? You've done it three times now in this one response.

If you can't handle the possibility of disagreement then maybe you shouldn't offer your opinion

Bullet dodged...maybe. All water has mineral content, water + minerals + metal = corrosion. Ever see a little spot of rust on metal? A few week/months later, it's a much bigger spot. Corrosion is like that. Unfortunately, that often happens after internal water in electronics. It dries out, the device works. Corrosion slowly spreads unseen, and a few days/weeks/months later, it dies for good. I suspect that's why Canon said not repairable – they can't stand by any repair short of complete internal replacement, costing more than new ones.

>$4K loss is unfortunate. That sort of possibility is why I have my gear insured, something you might want to consider.

Thanks Everyone.
I think I'm going to sell my EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS and my 7D and get a 7DmII when it comes out. (if it isn't too crazy expensive)

I have a EF 70-300L and it seems to do the trick, at least for good light. I will have football from now until end of November, and most of the games are daylight games. (the little guys 11 years old)

Thanks again.

privatebydesign said:

I used to live in France, the only people who work in August are foreigners and restaurant and cafe workers! I often wondered how the paper got printed for the morning coffee.

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Nah, that's not true.
We miss something like half the workforce in August. People who don't have kids tend to go on vacation on June or September, and more and more people only take 2 weeks now (compared to the whole month a decade ago...) so there are still quite a few workers.

Most of the company that closes for a month in August are industrial ones, where it's more efficient to close the plant than to try to make it work with half the people. And of course the very small businesses, where there's only 1 to 5 workers.

Rest of us, we show up every day. (saying we're working can be a bit of a stretch, considering half the suppliers and clients are away too... )

Djaaf.

dolina said:

scyrene said:

And I meant, if the maximum distance was 20m. I rarely encounter birds that close, especially the more unusual ones.

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In which case I prefer the subject be that close. I dont bother taking photos of birds further than that as I'd just delete them anyways.

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Haha, fair enough. Each to their own

gwflauto said:

FEBS said:

Thanks,

So, I know what to do then . going to the gym and practicing with this new baby (shouldn't I call It like this for its weight). In September a have a big aviation show on a military airfield here in Belgium at only 6 km from home. First half of October I have my safari trip to South Africa, Zimbabwe, Victoria Falls.

After that I will show you if my mussels were strong enough.

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I wish you a safe trip with fantastic photos. May I ask you a question. Are you going to take a tripod on your trip? I am going at the end of September also on a tour through southern Africa. We will start in Swaziland, go to Kruger NP, Botswana, Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, Namibia with all the exciting natural wonders to end the trip after seven weeks in Capetown.
I read, that in several of these parks you must not leave the car. So the tripod may be no good in those places. Do you normally have enough time to set up the tripod before the birds and lions are gone? Sitting at night and watching these waterholes may be a different story. I am wondering if I should carry the tripod which means almost 6 pounds of weight or rather take another lens with a very good image stabilizer.

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Monopod or tripod is still an open question for me. I bought in mean time the 200-400 1.4x. I have a few weekends planned in which I can use that lens extensively to find out before I go to Botswana, Zimbabwe if I need the monopod, tripod or just shooting out of hands. I will take a bean bag with me that's for sure. I also think to take a gorilla pod to take evening, night shots. For being quick it seems to me that I might need at least a monopod, but that I need to find out in the coming weeks.
It will be my first safari, so I can't answer you if you will have time enough.

Jim, I paid $5950 for my 1DX and $6247 for my 300 f2.8L IS11 at McBains Camera using my CPS discount, that's only mentioning two purchases
It pays for itself many times over
And the free stuff is cool to

Vincent

Halfrack said:

RLPhoto said:

No LS lenses is what killed this system for me.

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Take a Pentax 67 LS lens (like the SMC Pentax-6x7 165mm F4) and shoot with it via adapter & sync cable. Remember, that shutter speed can be eh, but a faster strobe will make up for it.

That poor focal plane shutter has more distance to cover, plus being a much wider shutter compared to 35mm.

I'm going to get one on rent and do a side by side with my H4D-50 - the only other 50mp chip out there - and do some side by sides. Roger is the worst enabler.

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Well, I already bought into the H-system hassys and Pentax lost a potential long time customer due to no LS lenses natively. Oh well...

Talking to professional sale staff from 2 CP shops:
They believe that the 7D2 will be a well sold product ( if the sensor at least will be a little bit better than the 7D´s in ISOs). Because of the F8 feature and the improved AF system. The ability to use e.g. an 100-400 with an 1.4 extender is highly wanted by sports/wildlife... photographers. And paired with an new AF system (double cross, AF @ f8, ... fast,... accurate) this will satisfy the needs of a lot of photographers.

In their opinion, the f8 feature & better AF will be the major reason why someone buys the 7D2, mainly not an improved sensor.