Posts

SwnSng · Jan 13, 2015

surapon said:
Wow, Wow, Wow---Thanks you, Sir Dear Mr. SwnSng
Beautiful Photos., Great Job.
Surapon

Thank you Mr Surapon! Your images are wonderful!

Jemlnlx · Jan 13, 2015

THanks DominoDude!!!!

Same boat as a lot of photographers I guess. Way too many bags that I'd like to admit. I guess also like clothing, my style and likes change over time.

Though when the other half asked me in surprise..."Wait, you're getting another bag, and spending $120 on it?", I simply opened her side of the closet to reveal tons of Michael Kors and Coach bags valued at goad knows what$$ ...

That kinda put the would-be argument to rest

bereninga · Jan 13, 2015

I finally got the 35mm IS, but am yet to be really impressed. Maybe I got a bad copy?

It's not as sharp as I'd thought it would be wide open, but I still got some pretty good shots w/ it over my holiday trips.

bereninga · Jan 13, 2015

raptor3x said:
bholliman said:

distant.star said:

.
Looks like $550 USD at B&H...

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1110672-REG/rokinon_135m_c_135mm_f_2_0_lens_for.html

Click to expand...

preppyak said:

Hmm, that'll have to come down to more like $400 to succeed. The 135L is at a street price of $7-800 used, and the refurb is right around $800. Cant see many (non-video) people saving $2-300 and losing one of the best AF lenses Canon has.
Also means the cine version would be like $700ish on release. Which is pricy as well.

Click to expand...

I couldn't see paying $550 for an manual focus, non-Zeiss, lens - why not pay a few hundred more for a lens with excellent AF and L build quality the Canon 135L?

Click to expand...

The image quality looks excellent from this first review.

Image quality looks pretty good from that review! Aberrations look well-controlled, but sharpness and light falloff looks significantly lost at 2.0. 2.8 and on look pretty good though. Seems like a great lens, but focus peaking would need to be used. Forget about it w/ an OVF.

dcm · Jan 13, 2015

chrysoberyl said:
mackguyver: Yeah, you're right - I should have said taking RAW shots after selecting the HDR mode, but noting that the bracketed shots had to be processed into HDR in DPP.

DominoDude: Sorry for the confusion.

dcm: Please confirm that you shoot RAW while in HDR mode, then combine the RAW shots into the HDR version in post-processing.

I always shoot in RAW or RAW+JPG mode.

My first HDR was done with a T2i. No builtin camera mode for in camera HDR and the Canon software did not do HDR. I shot RAW in Av with AEB and processed in Photomatix Pro. You can also preprocess the images in the Canon software for lens, etc. corrections and save as TIF or JPG before loading into Photomatix Pro.

I use the same approach with the 6D - shoot RAW in Av with AEB and process in Photomatix Pro. I have tried the HDR Backlight Control in scene mode on the 6D, but it only produces a single merged jpg image and that isn't generally what I am looking for so I don't use it. Maybe if I played with it more I might find something to like about it.

There is no RAW support in the HDR Backlight scene mode that I tried. I don't remember trying the HDR mode in camera menu 4 which appears to be the method you use. I haven't tried using any HDR features of the Canon software (ImageBrowser or DPP), didn't know there were any but I already have other software for this purpose.

If I find some time I might look at HDR mode in camera menu 4 but I think it will lack the flexibility of post processing if it produces an in camera jpg as documented. I could only speak to the current version, not any changes that might have been made since the original firmware.

rpt · Jan 13, 2015

Don't tell me we are still reading the beeping manuals! Real photographers don't read manuals! We just shoot!

Hjalmarg1 · Jan 13, 2015

cid said:
ajfotofilmagem said:

Canon TS-E 17mm f/4L fits in with what you describe. The new canon 16-35mm F4 is also very interesting.

Click to expand...

TS lens is very tempting option, but not sure I want it right now ... first I would like to have something easy and quick to use, simply said for travel

neuroanatomist said:

EF 16-35mm f/4L IS sounds like what you're looking for. The TS-E 17mm if you want the movements and will have time for tripod and setup.

Click to expand...

Don't look around. I tried all Canon UWA zoom lenses and this is the best. Only primes can beat the 16-35mm f/4L IS.
Yes, right now I'm leaning towards 16-35mm, but I was interested if there are any other interesting options to consider

Roo · Jan 13, 2015

Excellent! Thanks for sharing

Torinofarra · Jan 13, 2015

I want to find out more What to do?

nc0b · Jan 13, 2015

I shoot indoor dance events, so it is the 70-200mm IS II and a 6D. If I am at the park, the f/4 works just fine on any body I have, even with a 1.4X TC III. I don't do much macro, so I have the tiny 50mm f2.5 when needed.

TheJock · Jan 13, 2015

I'm feeling your pain Lourenco having just spent 16 hours at the track, perhaps the solution is to "floodlight" the area (rear facing of course) with an LED light panel

Jemlnlx · Jan 12, 2015

Recently picked up the Photoclam 33 for about $80 FS on Ebay. I have been keeping my eye on good travel bullheads for a while and considered Markins, PhotoClam, Sunwayfoto and Sirui. RRS area great from what I here, but a bit too big for a Gitzo 1541T. I tried the Sunwayfoto 36II, which was rated at about 40lbs load. The build quality seemed good. The knobs were metal without rubber gripping, which made for hell on my fingers when tightening. I loaded my 5DIII with 85 1.2 II which weighs about 6 lbs. and even at the highest tension, I was able to move the mounted camera very easily. I returned it. I was keeping my eye out for aMarkins Q3 as I see then go for $175-200 on the used market. There were a few though nothing worth jumping on. I saw the deal on the Photoclam and jumped on it. It arrived in great condition with box and all. I loaded it up attached the camera with very good results. I was able to tighten it to an immovable position with ease. The rubber knobs were a blessing and the base diameter worked fine with my 1541. The build quality seems pretty good. Now I know the bigger the ball diameter the better, the sunwayfoto had 36mm which was disappointing, the photo clam has 33mm and performed great. The markins I believe has 38mm and the reviews are outstanding, even in the long run. I think I may jump on one if I come across one, but for now the photo clam seems to work great. I hope the review and pics help. BTW i bought the sunwayfoto 5DIII plate which sells for $30 and works wonderfully.

9VIII · Jan 12, 2015

~~I just realized this lens has a really good maximum magnification. That pretty much seals the deal for me, I will own this lens~~
Shoot. I just remembered that close focus is not a good indicator of maximum magnification because focus breathing can ruin everything.
I guess I still have to wait and see.

IgotGASbadDude · Jan 12, 2015

dash2k8 said:
Now I just need to buy one to take advantage of this update!

I just got mine two weeks ago so that would explain the update. They're doing the update now just for me 8)

Tinky · Jan 12, 2015

neuroanatomist said:
martti said:

The TS-E 24mm picture quality is unique. It is a beautiful piece of machinery, a pleasure to use.
But having it as your only lens seems an absurd thought. The 'one and only' could only be the 24-70mm f/2.8 II.

Click to expand...

It seems to me that the absurd thought here is restricting oneself to just one lens. My current 'landscape/cityscape' travel kit comprises the 17mm and 24mm TS-E lenses, the 24-70/2.8 II, and the 70-300L (along with the body and various filters, all of that fitting in a Lowepro Flipside 300 which for air travel I place in a Storm im2500 carryon hard case, just in case I'm forced to check it). Oh, and obviously a tripod, which straps to the outside of the pack when I'm walking/hiking.

I don't see absurd. I see whimsey, I see abstract almost, a willingness to hear how fellow travellers think.

I like questions like that. Gives one an insight you don't always get from a gear salesman.

RustyTheGeek · Jan 12, 2015

Orangutan said:
Good luck, and keep shooting and critiquing your own work. Also study other photographs you like and try to figure out what you like about them.

I enjoy doing this all the time. Looking and analyzing other images and trying to determine how they did the lighting or what framing, etc they used to show the image the way they intended. How would I have done it or how could I do it myself in the future?

Sabaki · Jan 12, 2015

The thing is, $3000 for f/4.0 is very, very expensive.

I see many of you saying, "I can't see f/2.8 on this lens" and I ask why not?

The 16-35 f/4.0 has convinced me of one thing and in a most resounding fashion, Canon now have the optical recipe to make incredible WA lenses but the 11-24 needs to make a massive statement of intent from Canon, to their user base.

For essentially double the price of both the f/4.0 & f/2.8 16-35's, I'm asking Canon to make the 11-24 pitch perfect.

Even if it's a fat chick. Let's call it Amy

Ivar · Jan 12, 2015

wopbv4 said:
I doubt if there will be an upgrade for the Pro-1 soon.
Looking back at PRO9500 Mk1 released in 2007, replace by mark II in 2010, replace by ( a lot better) Pro-1 in 2013.
The Pro-1 is significantly better then pro-10 or pro-100, so I do not think that rebates for those are an indication of Pro-2 release soon.

The Pro-1 was released in 2011 ( http://www.dpreview.com/products/canon/printers/canon_pixmapro1 ) so I'd expect this to be updated somewhere in this year at least, if not in the upcoming months.

The CR2 rumor about the update was in Februray last year: http://www.canonrumors.com/2014/02/new-pixma-pro-printers-around-the-corner-cr2/

I used have an Epson 3800, a brilliant small footprint A2 printer but it required black ink switching between glossy & matte which consumed some time and ink. I have given up any hope on Epson on that and just try to see what Canon might have coming out next. Yeah, the Canon's is A3 but that's good enough.

vscd · Jan 12, 2015

Some photographers take excellent pictures with iPhone, others with view cameras.
There are so many right answers if you know how to ask your questions.

Yepp, that's what I wanted to express... hunting for new technologies can be the answer. But what was the question? Remember, even if Canon makes a really nice new Sensor with >50MP, the next medium format would have answered the question 4-5 years before

TommyLee · Jan 12, 2015

when will they realize the market wants...
12 mega pixels and 2 stops better noise than 5d3 ........... across the range

and 45 megapixels and all the noise reduction possible... try hard
.....

I guess the market ...means ....me

I would buy another lens or two to help this along...AFTER the lower noise camera is delivered..
...ok 3

....

or I could go back to sleep....

my vote

iooizz · Jan 12, 2015

I think you covered very well.

Sbobet
คาสิโนออนไลน์

MJ · Jan 12, 2015

Thank you everybody for your input and thoughts!

Since the 85 and especially the 135mm were mentioned as well, I did consider them too, reading only good things about these two classic lenses, but I'm afraid the focal lengths are a bit short, despite the fantastic f2/1.8!

I used to own the EF-S 55-250mm IS II a little while ago and was able to take a few great shots of performers, if well lit, as seen here: http://www.michaeljohannsen.com/MichaelJohannsen/Photography/Pages/Events.html

The photos of Lady Gaga, Beck, Arcade Fire, Robbie Williams, Foster The People and The Knife have been shot with the zoom. Basically everywhere I was able to sneak my lens into if I didn't have an invite to shoot 'legally' with my 70-200 (like Gilberto Gil and bunch of other, smaller events).
These photos have all been shot in the 200-250mm range exclusively, since I was unable to move around in the crowd during the concert and also didn't want to upset other viewers or get caught by overzealous concert staff for photographing with an SLR.

For general purpose this lens was convenient but the lack of picture quality and light sensitivity and especially the slow focusing speed made me sell it and left me with that essential question why I'm posting my agony over the updated zoom vs the classic prime pipe here

Mt Spokane Photography · Jan 12, 2015

DonLaFontaine said:
Thanks neuroanatomist and privatebydesign, it also turns out that in the more recent version of Lightroom (5), there's a correction for verticals, which I had been skipping because it hadn't been an issue for me as much in the past.

There are definitely a few things different that a FF reveals from your lenses. The 24-105mmL needs a lot of correction at 24mm, but for the low prices available, its a bargain.

I used the Lightroom corrections after they added the feature with my 24-105.

Adrian2 · Jan 11, 2015

Halfrack said:
So to answer the original question, both are a solid maybe. iPhone and Android based light meters can be used for constant lights - stuff you'd use to shoot video. Light meters that understand what a strobe is are worth their weight in gold, as it allows you to construct a photo, building an image in layers, and lighting each layer independently.

Time is passed and things are changed. Now you can plug a simple add-on sensor in your smartphone and turn it into a high performance light/flash meter. Here are two examples:

- http://www.lu.mu/lightmeter/
- http://www.optivelox.com/app_en/lxmeter.htm

LetTheRightLensIn · Jan 11, 2015

Marsu42 said:
LDS said:

I see a trend towards touch devices because it is fashionable and because of the cost savings for the producer

Click to expand...

Let me make a visual comment here. Maybe I'm just getting old, this new wishy-whooshy touchscreen stuff isn't for me. And I'm not rich enough to avoid the consumer-level products and keep buying "pro" gear that is actually usable.

touch screen is big if you have DPAF though

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