Posts

wickidwombat · May 7, 2014

i just went with the eos m
its a great little camera and can be had for a bargain these days

tolusina · May 7, 2014

Might be a webmaster goof, left a testing page up.
Looks like a clone of...
http://www.sigmaphoto.com/product/18-200mm-f35-63-dc-macro-os-hsm-c

sagittariansrock · May 7, 2014

sagittariansrock said:
neuroanatomist said:

jdramirez said:

you slowly start buying gear and one day your gear is more expensive than your first car.

Click to expand...

…and then one day, you buy a single lens that is more expsnsive than your first car.

Click to expand...

I got a really, really good deal on my first car (a pre-owned Ford Escort), so I crossed that limit when I bought the 17-85mm IS USM for $ 325

To answer the OP:
5DIII- 2450 (actually paid)
24-70 II- 1550 (actually paid)
70-200 II- 1700 (actually paid)
35mm A- 700 (actually paid)
135mm L- 700 (refurb 20% disc)
17mm TS-E- 1600 (refurb 20% disc)
Gitzo 2541- 550 (actually paid)
Arca Swiss Z1- 300 (actually paid)
600EX-RT x 2- 700 (refurb 20% disc)

Overshoots by $ 250, but whatever.

This was a really good exercise, because I own most of these except the 17mm TS-E and the extra 600mm, which means I did use my money wisely so far. Lots of buying and selling on the way, and lots of lucky deals. But I am at a happy place

Also means I have $ 8K of equipment just for hobby. WTF!!!

I just realized I have finally all that I had listed a couple of weeks ago, yay!
(Also means I have blown over $ 10k on camera gear, yikes!)

surapon · May 7, 2014

Dear Friends.
Here is my DIY for 14 mm Filter holder----Sorry, I fail this time= Not Good DIY.
Here is the Link below.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=20846.0

Enjoy.
Surapon

surapon · May 7, 2014

A)Genus 77 mm Varies ND Filter.
B)Cokin " P " series
C) Genus Rubber Filter Hood.
D)Cokin " P " Series Filter Holder.
E) Cokin " P Series Filter Hood.
And Put to gather with Velcro, for easy to remove as individual part.

sagittariansrock · May 7, 2014

Hi all, I have just received a Sunwayfoto panning clamp to use on my Arca Swiss Z1 ballhead, but the included M6 screw (as well as the screw for the ballhead) is too short. There is a gap after which the threads start inside the ballhead stem, and the screw threads don't reach deep enough.
If you are using panning clamps from RRS or some other company, can you tell me how long the screws are approximately? Does anyone actually use a panning clamp with the Z1. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

jrista · May 7, 2014

Well the masks have certainly shrunk in size, then. Also, keep in mind, masks may not cover the whole die area. A number of years ago I was researching this stuff, and found that a lot of the time masks only cover some of the area of a die, only a few transistors or other components at a time. And they were quite large, inches in size vs. the nanometers of the things they templated (hence the reason I thought a scale factor of thousands...although I guess the size of the transistor designs on the template might only be millimeters or maybe even microns in size, vs. nanometers, even if the whole template is a few inches in size, which reduces things to a 10-100x scale factor). I guess progress keeps marching on.

I guess it would be possible to rotate the design on the template. I don't know enough about the actual lithography machines to know how that would work...could you just rotate the whole template? Or would you have to generate twice as many templates for the alternate orientation? And there is still the problem of automating everything with dies of different orientations...you have to update the entire automated pipeline if you do that. When dies are all in the same orientation, you can simplify parts of your pipeline, because you can then make certain assumptions.

Jack Douglas · May 6, 2014

Thanks mackguyver,

I'll check into this, although I've gotten myself kind of swamped - bought an old motorhome and and am doing repairs so I can get some photos further away than 2 minutes from my home - like the Rocky Mountains etc., and not just birds.

Jack

mrsfotografie · May 6, 2014

Two more. This is a FUN lens when I want to have a light weight little set-up ;D ;D ;D

Cgdillan · May 6, 2014

The compression on this video was pretty horrible. Standard 5D compressed footage is pretty soft, but I know that the 5D Raw would not be that soft looking if processed properly. Nonetheless, the Note3 is awesome camera phone video.

Markus D · May 6, 2014

Re: New PowerShot & EOS Cameras to Offer DOF Control?

mrsfotografie said:
Steve Todd said:

Many of Canon EOS film bodies had a "Depth" mode, so this is kind of a "Back to the Future" event!

Click to expand...

Yes, my 50e (ElanIIe) had this already (camera Date introduced = September 1995):

DEP is for depth of field auto exposure mode. It allows the camera to decide the
appropriate aperture and focus position to provide enough depth of field to keep two
selected distances sharply in focus. The easiest way to use it is to turn the Command
Dial to DEP, and use the center auto focus sensor, point the camera at the first subject
and press the shutter button half way to autofocus. Let the button up and then point the
same AF sensor on the top of the second subject and press the shutter half way again
to allow the lens to autofocus on the second subject. Then reframe your camera and
take the picture. The camera will select a focus distance between the subject distances,
then select an aperture small enough to keep both subjects in focus and then select a
shutter speed that will provide proper exposure. If you select the same subject distance
twice, the camera will select the widest aperture available to keep depth of field very
shallow. The lens must be set to AF for DEP mode to work and if you are using a zoom
lens, you must not change its zoom setting during the entire procedure. You can also
manually or eye control select the side AF sensors, but I think it just adds confusion.
A blinking aperture indicated that sufficient depth of field (DOF) can not be achieved.
You must focus on subjects that are closer to the same distance apart or use a wider angle
lens.

Click to expand...

(ref: http://www.google.nl/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCkQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fgraphics.stanford.edu%2F~niloy%2FmiscDocs%2FelanIIe.pdf&ei=2sBnU7iiDcn-PPi8gOAL&usg=AFQjCNFcpLQfmpOPCiZ99ceN_esrVc9bDw)

Maybe Canon will now also bring back the eye controlled autofocus feature!!! 8)

Maybe they could bring back film also!! Yes, the EOS3 had Depth of Field as an option. Wish I had it on my 40D. Or on the next 7d(XX).

e17paul · May 6, 2014

neuroanatomist said:
Depending on your goals/needs, FF can be cheaper. Consider that 85mm f/1.2 on APS-C is equivalent to 135mm f/2 on FF, and compare the cost of the lenses.

I thought I would be the only one to see that, although I hadn't thought of portrait lenses.

Of course it doesn't apply to every scenario.

Andrew Davies Photography · May 6, 2014

Now people have started taking delivery of their Sigma 50s they are turning out to not quite be the jewel in the crown of everyones collection with the usual sigma variations in focusing issues.

Meanwhile happy to report my new Canon 35mm IS is absolutely brilliant and nails focus every time , maybe its time for a new Canon 50 IS ??

Lawliet · May 5, 2014

neuroanatomist said:
The 6D has 11 AF points.

Alas...9 points and that 8way+center controller actually made sense...so it had to be changed.

drjlo · May 5, 2014

sagittariansrock said:
It does look like a clone, albeit with a plastic mount.
Almost seems like an April fool's joke.

At first I thought Canon must have sold all their B-stock Canon 50 mm f/1.4 lenses to Yongnuo who changed the labels and lens mount to plastic. Upon side-by-side review, there seems to be more differences. For example, the front plastic round rim that moves back and forth as lens focuses seems to be different in thickness and the details in the slope leading to front glass.

One can pick up the Canon for $350 new right now, and this Yongnuo is listed for $300, which wouldn't make any sense for the buyer, EXCEPT if Yongnuo somehow improved on the Canon, i.e. more and round aperture blades for better bokeh, a little sharper wide open...somehow. Then, it gets pretty interesting IMO.

YN50Can50 by drjlo1, on Flickr

Menace · May 5, 2014

DRR said:
My 85mm f/1.2L II almost never comes off the camera.

+1

Its always on one of my bodies. The 2nd body would either have 70-200 or 24-70 etc

brianleighty · May 5, 2014

sagittariansrock said:
http://www.amazon.com/Tamron-17-50mm-Vibration-Compensation-Digital/dp/B002LVUIXA/ref=pd_cp_p_0

For some reason this costs a lot more at B&H.
Why this?
f/2.8- you want as much light as possible for the smaller sensor.
17-50- this is a nice standard zoom range.
VC- you want vibration compensation when recording video.

Plus, it is a very nice and well-regarded lens all around.

Keep in mind the VC is optically inferior to the non-vc version:
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=400&Camera=474&Sample=0&FLI=2&API=0&LensComp=679&CameraComp=474&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=2&APIComp=0

privatebydesign · May 5, 2014

Dylan777 said:
jdramirez said:

Dylan777 said:

jdramirez said:

Just to put a bow on the end of the story... I was able to sell my 580 exii for $322.70 (net after commission). My final cost on the 600 rt is $377.98... making my total upgrade cost $55.29.

So if I hate the 600... I'm coming lookin' for ya'll!!! >-|

I think I need a better flash diffuser... or a better assistant. My flashbender had some harsh t-zones in some of the photos I took today...

Click to expand...

I hate shooting with flashes

Keep in mind, I never own any speedlite prior speedlite 600. It took me about 20mins to fire up all these stuff. The layout is very friendly

First few couple shots with flashes(straight out from camera). Still have a lot more to learn. To have both kids sit still and looking at camera at the same time will be my #1 task ;D

Backgrounds will be next... :

Click to expand...

I've come full circle in regards to flash. When all I had was the on camera flash... I never used it. Then I had a 430 exii that I could use in slave mode and I could trigger it using my on camera flash... and I like it enough... then I had the 580's, an umbrella (still working on getting that 2nd umbrella), and stands... and I really like the result when the result is good. When I screw up the result, well... I won't go into that.

So I like flash... but not as a panacea to bad technique... because it still can detract from an image... but I digress. I like your first efforts. When you have two subjects, I'd suggest shooting at f/8 or so, so both are in focus... There's nothing worse than everything coming together and both are looking at the camera, but one is out of focus and the other is in focus... it is just frustrating and annoying.

Click to expand...

I plan to add two more 600rt to my kits. With two 60" westscott umbrellas and five 600rt, I will feel safe shooting @ f11 to 16, 1/200, ISO100-400

Again, the st-e3-rt makes shooting wireless very simple. However, the price we pay for this feature is high. I'll look forward to Dec deals . I got mines for $450each, NEW from authourized dealer, with 1yr Canon warranty. They also throw in couple off brand umbrella stands and one 60" westscott umbrella.

As a pure power based studio style setup the speedlite route makes little sense, there are much better and cheaper solutions, Elinchrome would be a make I'd recommend, but if you want "the best" the Profoto B1 Air is THE new toy to have, and if you are going to be ganging three 600's, not badly priced and much more powerful than even the three 600's, they do ETTL and radio wireless too.

RAKAMRAK · May 5, 2014

Antono Refa said:
Unless the object is flat, say a coin or a medallion, and the background is empty, say a flat colored background, the photos will not be the same.

It's just like portrait photography, with the nose looking too big relative to the ears when shooting from a short distance - perspective works for the front & back parts of the subject same as it works for the subject itself being in the foreground and other stuff being farther away in the background.

Therefore, if you shoot a diamond ring with the diamond facing the camera and the band away from it, the shorter the focal length the larger the diamond will look compared to the band.

This is actually the answer that I was looking for when I wrote the question. I had a hunch, but probably could not put my question properly. Thank you.

Andrew Davies Photography · May 5, 2014

ajfotofilmagem said:
Today, I would not buy a longer lens than 100mm, which does not have Image Stabilizer. Yes, the 135mm L is still wonderful, but in dimly lit places the lack of IS would require me to always use faster speeds than 1/125, and this causes problems with fluorescent bulbs, which have random color variations.

There is a consensus that 70-200 2.8 IS II has better sharpness (in 200mm wide open) than the model without IS. In addition, there is the issue I mentioned about the lack of IS when above 100mm zoom.

This will come down to useage and skill not IS for me. In many situations i will be in people will be moving even if only slightly so the faster shutter speed provided by F2 over F2.8 will always be better for my situation than IS.

Added to that the 5D3 at iso6400 and F2 will easily beat 1/125 even in the most poorly lit church its not an issue. The issue i may have is indoor portrait space if i want for the 135.

IS is good in some situations but for me its not a dealbreaker.

Sporgon · May 5, 2014

Interestng looking at the date of the OP. Three years on this lens is still easy to find in Europe - everyone has one in stock.

It's actually much better than on line reviews give it credit for. These reviews have destroyed the second hand value.

philmoz · May 5, 2014

AlanF said:
Could you find out for sure if there is a firmware upgrade as it would be useful to know.

Lens is back - according to the report they 'carried out rom data update to ver 1.05 to overcome servo focus issue'

A quick test shows improved behaviour with AI Servo.

Phil.

traingineer · May 4, 2014

AvTvM said:
I want an oculus rift grade evf instead of those laggard mickey mouse vga evfs. Along with a good af-system with af fields all over the place all the way out to the corners.

Zuckulus Rift*

Jom · May 4, 2014

Thanks very much for all the advice, I am so glad I found this site, you guys are awesome. I hope to get to a shop tomorrow or Tuesday, I have no doubt that I will bring a Canon home .

May 4, 2014

Eldar said:
sagittariansrock said:

Eldar said:

Here´s one. Sonnet has a few more you can find at B&H. I only have USB 2.0 on my iMac, so thunderbolt is how I can improve transfer speed. The price is a turn-off though. I was hoping someone had found something a bit cheaper, that worked.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/973464-REG/sonnet_qio_tb_qio_universal_media_reader.html

Click to expand...

How about FireWire?

Click to expand...

I don´t have firewire on my iMac or MacBook, so that is not an option for me.

Geez, $1K for a card reader??

How about a Belkin Thunderbolt Express Dock? For <$200, it would give you both FireWire and USB3 ports for a variety of accessories, including fast card readers.

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