Posts

ajfotofilmagem · Jun 16, 2014

The old model Canon 18-135mm (without STM) is actually exceeded by the image quality and mechanical. I believe that the performance of the image stabilizer is really what appears in the video, but it's hard to believe that Fuji works so much better, even at speeds to 1 full second.

ajfotofilmagem · Jun 16, 2014

Each specific camera model has its advantages and weaknesses. I'll try to summarize:

Nikon D7100 has the best resolution, and when used as a high quality lenses can provide sharper images. The picture quality is the best of the three at ISO100, but loses this advantage above ISO800.

Canon 70D has a similar resolution to the D7100, but takes advantage above ISO800. It is the only of the three that makes continuous autofocus during video, and combined with STM lens is very fast, quiet, and fits smoothly. All STM lenses launched so far have high image quality, and its mechanics are superior to traditional models in the same price range. The articulated LCD touchscreen is great and just tap your finger on the image of the object, the AF will follow it effectively.

Canon 7D is a camera "bulletproof" but the image quality is outdated, and loses to the other two in this regard. But 7D is the fastest camera, and makes 8 frames per second.

DigitalDivide · Jun 16, 2014

It is hard to tell from the recording how loud your lens is. My 17-40 makes a barely audible noise when zooming; if I put my ear close to the lens then I can hear a smooth swoosh with something that sounds like gear noise superimposed on top of it. It is not something I ever noticed with the lens on the camera. If yours is like that then I'd guess it's probably fine. How long have you owned it? If you've had it a while and it recently got a lot more noticeable, then it might be a good idea to get it checked out.

Valvebounce · Jun 16, 2014

Hi Olaf.
Glad it all ended well, and the 70-200 f2.8 II is truly awesome.

Cheers Graham.

vargyropoulos · Jun 16, 2014

hi Logan,

thanks for your initial response. I did get a chance to play with the 600 setup over the past weekend, using a 6D & 7D.

I think the focusing issues may be more camera related. I did notice quite an improvement in focus accuracy when I had good light on my subject. the egret in question on my original post was sort of back lit... I had a 3pm sun, shooting towards that direction... white egrets in general gave me a lot of problems.

it could be a FF vs crop sensor too, but the images off the 6D with the same lens, on the same subject/distance/light were much sharper.

I will agree with you that it requires good lines of contrast to lock on focus. I think this is where I was headed in my initial question... if the subject is too far to accurately resolve the details, focus is off... not to mention that the actual focus point in the image had a lot of variation with the focus point that was selected... in some images, the focus was in an area 2-3 points away from the point that supposedly had the "AF lock"

Menace · Jun 16, 2014

scottkinfw said:
Wow. With all these problems, I think I will just wait to upgrade to the EOS M II. Do you think it will be released in the US by Christmas?

Yes - Christmas 20XX

wickidwombat · Jun 15, 2014

megmo said:
Thanks y'all for a very helpful discussion.

I ended up buying the 70D on Amazon (body only) and got it for $999 (well, $890 since I had some Amazon points to blow). For the money, I think it'll be a great camera for what I do and hopefully last me at least 8 years like my old trusty Rebel XTi did.

I'm also going to continue to save up for a better lens. I'm not sure if I'm ready to move up to an L series, but right now I'm mainly using a Sigma 28-70 f/2.8 and a Canon 60mm macro. Which are good (especially the macro) but I'd love to get a lens with a big wow-factor eventually.

Anyway, thanks again for all of the help!

In your position i would get the sigma 18-35 f1.8 first it looks like a perfect match for a 70D IMO and your 28-70 covers the longer end nicely with a bit of overlap
and for the money Id grab the 10-18 IS canon STM to cover UWA

eml58 · Jun 15, 2014

GMCPhotographics said:
Here's a recent 400 f2.8 LIS (mkI) with a 2x converter. One image over view and the other at 100% crop.
This is very nearly wide open:

It's a heavy lens but worth it. Not many lenses can come close to this level of quality

Lovely Image GMC, Nailed focus & beautiful background to complement the colours of the Puffin, well done.

It's a great lens as well, enjoyed mine when I had it, enjoyed the weight saving of the Mk II even more, but IQ was similar in both, brilliant.

TheJock · Jun 15, 2014

Reviving this one from the depths of page 3!!
Can you use a teleconvertor on this lens???? it appears to be very good value for the money!!

thebowtie · Jun 15, 2014

Olliecanon said:
Hello!

I just wanted to share a few recent images with you from my time here in Finland. I am working as a nature guide/ wildlife photographer, and would love for you all to take a moment to have a look at my Blog I am writing, and if you feel interested, then to follow through to the Autumn!!

www.bearinthesauna.blogspot.com

I especially love the bear reflected in the water.
What I didn't expect to see was Hugh Jackman (read the caption on the last photo...)
Maybe it's my eyesight!

Cheers

fegari · Jun 15, 2014

Thanks Sama!

AvTvM · Jun 14, 2014

unfocused said:
Note: this is not what a "wish list" but rather a prediction based on the market, competition and Canon's existing lineup:

24 mp dual pixel APS-C sensor;
Sensor performs marginally better than 70D sensor;
Autofocus equal to or exceeding the 5DIII;
Dual card slots, one each SD and CF;
Weather sealing somewhere between 5DIII and 1DX;
Mode dial replaced by 1D-style button (After CR Guy surfaced this rumor, I started thinking about it and it makes sense);
Touch Screen;
Integrated Wi-Fi and/or GPS;
Accessory grip/battery holder with weather-sealing slightly superior to 5DIII grip;
Frame rate slightly better than current 7D (Maybe 1-1.5 fps faster);
Pop-up flash with optical trigger (same as 7D);
Same back controls (joystick, click wheel, etc.) as 5DIII;
Fixed back screen (not tilting);
Video enhancements that I don't understand and won't use.

That about covers it.

Totally agree. Exactly my expectation. It might have abuilt-in RT speedlite trigger as a surprise extra deature (that would sell an extra couple 1000 of 600EX-RT speedlites!) - in line with the 7D which was the first EOS with pop-up flash serving as optical speedlite trigger.

Marsu42 · Jun 14, 2014

bdunbar79 said:
Sorry, we went from the 5D3 auto ISO all the way to a full-blown 1Dx discussion.

Interesting to know in any case, unfortunately the metering cannot be fixed by Magic Lantern as they don't have access to the non-lv af or metering information (yet).

It was a bit disappointing to see this regression on my 6d, but then again I was expecting worse performance looking at the af specs anyway. I guess the old 9-pt metering/af system is very mature on my good ol' 60d while there hasn't been too much testing with the 6d 11pt metering/af.

Let's hope that Canon will integrate real rgb metering in all upcoming systems, after all Nikon shows how it can be done and still selling their most expensive model. Probably already with the 7d2?

Jim Saunders · Jun 14, 2014

I have a feeling your lioness there isn't in much mood to share!

Jim

Valvebounce · Jun 14, 2014

Hi J.R. O
Interesting plant, nice shot and I nearly didn't look because it said football in the title!

Cheers Graham.

Hannes · Jun 14, 2014

johnf3f said:
bdunbar79 said:

johnf3f said:

Hannes said:

Looking at UK prices you'd be able to get a used 1D4 and a 300/2.8 I for about the same money as a new 1DX

Click to expand...

Where? A good, used, Canon 300 F2.8 L IS Mk1 is 3K+ a decent 1D4 is 1800+. That adds up to a lot more than my 1DX cost!

Click to expand...

The cheapest 300 f/2.8L I IS lens right now is $4500. Cheapest 1D Mark IV I could find in decent shape was $3000. Assuming you could buy a used 1Dx for about $5400, you would still have $2k left.

Click to expand...

I should have said that those are UK prices. So a 300 F2.8 IS Mk1 + a used 1D4 would run around 4800 vs the 3600 that my 1DX cost new. The difference is about 1200 GBP/$2000 US so we are in the same ball park!

Where did you find a 1DX for £3600? Even digitalrev charges £4000 for one and the official UK dealers want £4845 at the moment

makismika · Jun 14, 2014

Yes, i'm same person that did hood for 40mm stm.
24-105 hood are for sale also! If you're interested send me some private message.

I'm happy that i cause some inspiration! Covering plastic hood with vinyl tape is some kind of cheating or what do you think?

DRR · Jun 14, 2014

pwp said:
There are all sorts of "prime-tyrants" out there...trolls, pixel peepers, insecure gear-nuts who follow the trends and of course the many genuinely brilliant photographers who undoubtedly produce their best work with primes.

With the exception of 300mm and longer, I'm a zooms guy with 16-35 f/2.8II, 24-70 f/2.8II and the awesome 70-200 f/2.8isII. They keep bag weight down and hugely reduce the need for lens changes in dusty locations. For me "content is king" and a zoom's innate flexibility helps to deliver the goods. I sold three primes when I bought the 24-70 f/2.8II. It's that good.

Why do they do it? Hell, I don't know. I suspect the the most dogmatic offenders are dreamers with too much time on their hands who may not even own a camera.

-pw

Personally, I like primes because it simplifies decisions for me. I'm generally a two-lens shooter - more than that tends to be overkill for my style (or, abilities, if you want to put it that way). I looked at EXIF on how I shot my 24-70 and 90% of the shots were at 30-40 range, or at 70. I figured with a little more discipline I could use primes and gain the ability to shoot with over 4x more light hitting the sensor over a fast zoom.

Needs and styles vary - that is why there is a range of equipment available. No two kits are alike because no two shooters are alike.

Hjalmarg1 · Jun 14, 2014

Khalai said:
wickidwombat said:

I'd take the sigma and 70-200 personally you won't miss the 35-70 gap but the extra 100mm on the long end will be nice
The sigma is plenty fast for low light

If you need wider than 18 mm shoot a pano in portrait and stitch
Nice combo if you ask me

Click to expand...

+1. Or take the 15-85 if you need a bit wider angle/less lens swapping. But I'd take S18-35 over C15-85 anyday personally.

+1, take the sigma and the macro 100L. It's a light combo and you won't miss much other lenses.

Hjalmarg1 · Jun 14, 2014

wsheldon said:
The dock lets you program AFMA values directly into the lens with the added benefit of setting corrections for multiple distances, unlike the AFMA settings in the body. So if your Sigma is good at minimum focus distance but is off at longer distances you can program in multiple AFMA corrections, unlike body-based AFMA where you have to split the difference or just optimize at one extreme or the other. If you use the dock to perform AFMA you would typically disable in-camera AFMA for that lens (set it to 0).

The big down-side is that you can't currently set AFMA corrections for different bodies (addressing the OP's question), so you would either need to use body-only AFMA or a combination of lens and body AFMA in that scenario.

The other annoyance is that to use the dock for AFMA you have to shoot, unmount the lens, attach the dock, make adustments, remount the lens, re-shoot, and repeat. Pretty fiddly compared to using tethered shooting with the EOS Utility or Focal.

That said, the dock also allows you to update the firmware in the lens to correct performance or compatibility issues that are identified after shipping. For example, there was a firmware update for the 35 Art last year to improve AF reliability and noise. That feature of the dock could be important long-term if Canon tweaks their EF communication specs in future cameras, since 3rd-party companies have to reverse engineer those specs and things could break. I bought the dock for my 35A even though it doesn't need AFMA on my 6D, and it's been nice for the firmware updates alone and as an insurance policy. It's not expensive, but it would be a great item to share around with friends or a photography club since it generally sits unused after you tweak your lenses.

Hope that helps. I have the dock and software, so let me know if you need any specifics and I'll check tonight.

Thanks for this explanation. I was in the same dilemma.

Aglet · Jun 13, 2014

Over the past vew pages the bunch of you have just had the most beat-around-the-bushes discussion of Signal to Noise Ratio I've ever seen.

Can't someone find or come up with a simpler explanation of how SNR affects image quality that you can all agree on?
I think 100 was closest in his last post and could simply add that, sensor technology (e.g. pixel size, read noise, dark noise, etc.) being about equal, when printing or scaling to any given size, the greater surface area of a FF sensor allows more noise averaging to occur than the same image, shot with the same field of view, from a smaller sensor.

iaind · Jun 13, 2014

Oldest body acceptable is 50d What is it worth as a trade in

IMG_0001 · Jun 13, 2014

Graphix501 said:
First time posting here...

Nice images indeed, some are pretty dynamic.

sdsr · Jun 13, 2014

sagittariansrock said:
Radiating said:

As far as ultra wide angle lenses go there are only a hand full from any manufacturer that aren't terrible.

Click to expand...

You think the EF-S 10-22 is terrible? Not that the OP is looking for EF-S lenses, but I asked since you include them in your list.
I think it is actually pretty good, and I have used it for more than 2 years.

And the new EFS 10-18 should surely be on the list - reviews say it's better than the 10-22 and it's half the price (I'm happy with mine, anyway, for all that I prefer FF).

mackguyver · Jun 13, 2014

Michelle, welcome to CR and thanks for posting the link. Grant is known the drop by here from time-to-time - here's his profile:
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=370328

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