Canon Patent Application: Composite Molded Aspherical element improvements
Have you used any lenses with molded elements in your high humidity environment?
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Canon's problem is that they really low-balled the 'economy' lenses; so while you're right that a light 50 f1.8 might be the right ballpark for a lot of folk; that particular 50 f1.8 might not be. It's definitely built down to a price, it's not weather sealed, and the close focus IQ is poor.I think the people clamouring for 50/1.4 are ACTUALLY asking for one of the two lenses we ALREADY have. Either they want something like the EF50/1.4, a double Gaussian design, cheap, compact, good not great IQ, and so basically what the RF50/1.8 is, once you factor in the lower need for raw F-stop these days. People are hung up on the 1.8 vs. 1.4 but I think that is a mistake (and one I made for 3-4 years before finding peace!). In other words, the RF50/1.8 **IS** the double-Gaussian RF50/1.4 you've been waiting for.
The shutter stays open in ECO mode when the screen and EVF time out. Not sure that means the sensor is in a power-saving standby mode too or still "draining the battery." If the sensor is still at full, active power, then "Eco Mode" isn't so Eco.As title, wonders if the sensor is still draining battery or the shutter is closed sensor power down?
You probably mean Sauter in Munich?Germany but the first letter is right, and his on his name plate only "Canon" was referenced...
I just asked a snarky question. Seemed funny to me. Good to see you triggered, though. Cheers.Seriously: Your ignorance let you miss to touch the possibly most interesting glass these days!
Wonderful photos with a wonderful presentation!Last but not least, my most commonly used format:
"Cardinals Ruffled (3).CR3"
View attachment 215626
...more commonly known as:
"RAW.CR2"
View attachment 215627
EOS 1D X, EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM @ 200mm, 1/80 s, f/2.8, ISO 320
...and more recently:
"RAW.CR3"
View attachment 215628
EOS R3, RF 100-500mm f/4.5-7.1L IS USM @ 500mm, 1/250 s, f/7.1, ISO 12800
Better for your shape. Otherwise you'll get hungry and start wateringI don’t see them, probably because I set my browser to block cookies.![]()
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| Manufacturer | Prime/Zoom | Min FL | Max FL | Min Ap. | Max Ap. | Good For |
| Olympus 14-42mm EZ | Powered Zoom | 14 | 42 | 3.5 | 22 | Variety |
| Lumix 14-42mm PZ | Powered Zoom | 14 | 42 | 3.5 | 22 | Variety |
| Lumix 45-175mm PZ | Powered Zoom | 45 | 175 | 4 | 22 | Distance Very Tight Shot |
| Sigma 16mm | Prime | 16 | 16 | 1.4 | 16 | High Bokeh |
Thanks!Each flash manufacturer has their own ID code so what ever transmitter you are using it has to be paired with a receiver of it's own kind .
I use the Godox 600s 200s and V1s but in the studio i have a mix of Godox and Alienbees, for the setup I have and old Adarama transmitters and receivers can't remember the name but they have a hotshoe so place the Godox transmitter at the top and trigger both lights at the same time. If you are in a studio you can also use the optical sensor to trigger your other brand providing both lights can see each other. However it's best to stay inside the same ecosystem, if you have Godox they have a wide range of lighting for all occasions along with Profoto and Westcott.
If you use studio strobes like Godox just forget about the Canon flashes and invest in the Godox ecosystem.
Good luck.

The important bit for me that it needed to be better than my EF24-105L, the mark I version. The RF cleared that low bar easilyYou must have got a good one, since there seem to be copy variations. Mine was just OK, but definitely not as good as the EF 24-70 F4.[…]
I believe you will have a higher chance of success if you try writing a formal letter in Japanese:Are you listening Canon ?
It is never too late for retro.Well, they have been sleeping! It's already a few years late!