No

DiXi said:

For what it’s worth, a Canon rep at IBIC 2023 told me to wait a little longer if i wanted to purchase a C70.

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as in, prices will drop to make room for a new camera I assume? Did they mention how long? haha

Thanks everyone and happy new year!

I'm using Angelbird and Prograde. Great experience. I use a Prograde dual card reader.

Everybody has a preference. Everybody has a different experience. Good or bad mine's been stellar. Sandisk works great too.

Cards I don't care for are Sony Tough or Lexar, but others swear by them.

Awesome! Great shots, Glenn.

koenkooi said:

Go into the battery menu, that has a ‘recharge performance’ indicator for all batteries you have used in the camera.

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Great , thanks for that. I was (obviously) not aware of that function.

EOS 4 Life said:

Has Canon ever made a 1:1 APS-C lens?

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The EF-s 60mm can do 1:1 and the EF-M 28mm can do 1.2:1. The EF-S 35mm that looks like a copy of the EF-M 28mm also does 1:1.

So at least 3 APS-C specific 1:1 or better lenses. The 28 and 35 even have a built-in ring light, which I’d like to see in a future RF macro like the MP-R.

Thanks for the advice about eBird. I am in fact a contributor to eBird but in relation to as stated by @ISv I upload in the UK only rarities.

Birdshooter said:

I think the reason for not using a arca swiss style foot comes down to liability. People may claim that it was due to the foot that their new expensive lens fell to the ground. By us changing the foot, or putting a swiss arca plate on the foot, the consumer would be the one that altered the foot and the manufacturer would not be liable. Not as big a deal as some might make you think, as a new replacement foot is not that expensive.

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For the past decade I have been either adding acra-swiss feet or acra-swiss plates to lenses and not once have I ever dropped a lens due to failure in the foot or plate. When replacing the foot / plate ensure to use Loctite Threadlocker Blue 424 and periodically check the tightness with an Allen key. Relative to the cost of the lens, the feet / plates are a rounding error in terms of cost.

I also especially like plates that have QD releases which make carrying the lens very simple using a sling.

I would go on Facebook and join the Canon 100-500 page. There are ample examples of photos at 7.1 f stop, and then jidge for yourself. I used it last sunday night at a soccer game and returned it. The noise was nuts at 25600 iso.

Great shots. Well done, Glenn.

Just over 1 year after the launch of his first Kickstarter which raised over a half million dollars on crowdfunding platforms, camera reviewer & Youtuber Michael The Maven has announced a second Kickstarter for his MAVEN filter line, which expands his patent-pending Color Coded, Magnetic Filter ecosystem with 17 new filter products set to launch

See full article...

Looking more closely at my last post, I wondered if the actual resolution of the test chart was insufficient to distinguish between the RF 100-500 without and with the RF 1.4x. So I reshot the test chart at 20m, illuminated with a remote flash at ISO 400 - ambient illumination is negligible - none of the images indicated movement blur.. The files were imported into Lightroom, the white balance normalised at a consistent point and the exposure increased so that the whites were reading 90%. Screenshots were taken of paired images, with the higher res image at 100% and the lower res image at 143% (LR wouldn't allow 140%).
#1: The 700mm image at 5.0 is similar to the 500mm image at 4.0. The 700mm image has less local contrast.
#2: Adding 100% texture to the 700m produces similar contrast to the 500mm, but no increase in resolution
#3: I also moved the camera closer so that the chart at 500mm is similar to that of the 700mm. The 500mm resolves to 5.6 on the chart compared to 5.0 for the 700mm. The 700mm image has lower contrast.
#4: Converting the RAW file with DXO Pure Raw 2 significantly improves contrast with the 700mm
What does this mean in practice? I photographed some terns this morning, at 500mm and 700mm at the same distance.
#5: In good light, 700mm does resolve more detail than 500mm.
#6: The 500mm image is now upscaled with Gigapixel AI and sized on the screen to the 700mm at 100%. GP AI adds contrast, but not much in the way of fine feather detail.
I conclude that, in good light and good technique, the RF 1.4x adds noticeable resolution of subjects photographed at the same distance with the bare lens.

If these are Power zooms, and let's Sigma take care the traditional mechanical zoom. It is an absolute win.

I like the RF 28mm
I‘d like a 22 to 24 something.
Die APS-C I‘d like a 14 to 18 something.

The patents sound cool

DhlcadR6 said:

I keep switching on and off my R6 between shots, it hasn't fail me. I have more problem with my 80D not having accurate AF and suffering "fake" battery die out when I used 3rd party LP-E6N

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For me my 5D3 keeps focusing great, sometime it's slightly front or back focus with the point of focus still sharp, but the foreground/background blur is a bit off balance especially with the lens field of focus tilting in the zoom range, but except geeky pixel peeping it isn't an issue at all, for using 3rd party battery that is something I won't do... I have been using 4x LP-E6 for 10 years, since I am using a battery grip and even on a long vaccation of around 10 days I never have to even recharge, so the battery, though degraded in the health indicator from 3 bars to 1, still works great. With mirrorless I would think it wears out much quicker since MILC drains battery a lot more to keep the sensor and processor on all the time.

And 3rd party battery IME saw way too many cases of premature failure or even exploding, when buying a $1k+ camera I won't risk it with a 3rd party battery saving me $50 of money. In my area once there was a news that someone wearing a 3 grand worth Amani suit put a DSLR on a sling bag, and the 3rd party burnt a hole in his precious suit...

I prefer a click than a shaking camera.... and tbh, the shutter does more on sensor protection from dust and the colour filter array duing non-use period, imagine you cleaned off the sensor, put the camera facing up in a dry box during unuse period for a month or so, next time you took it out for a trip the first thing is a hundred dust speck in small aperture landscape

scottburgess said:

>> It would be that good especially when you consider these tilt-shift lenses are auto-focusing and the entire design is to be able hand-hold these lenses.

I still want a lens bracket on each new TS.

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... a bracket which holds the front of the lens to make seamless shift stitch an easy task.

Fuji can do this, why not Canon?

EricN said:

It's hard for me to imagine a f1.4 that is a full macro

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No chance, far too many optical compromises.

I think someone in my neighborhood is not responsible enough to own a dog.

AlanF said:

Go to "Search" at the top of the page, type in 200-800 and "Titles Only" and the thread comes up close to the top (2nd actually). Also, when you start a new thread, ones with a similar title are displayed before you post and you have to check that there are not similar threads. I just tested starting a new 200-800 thread in Lenses and the 200-800 Review thread is top of the list.

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Thanks.

EricN said:

Buy a focusing screen for your slr or dslr and you can modify it anyway you want, but you may want to take it to someone that specializes in etching nameplates for trophies. You'll still have the original screen if you don't like it

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Focusing-Screens/ci/290/N/3777857692

There's a grid on the R5 and I think most people can figure out how to use it without any help. I don't know about the other cameras.

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The Sony one allows for custom grid lines.

Nicely done, HeavyPiper.

I absolutely adored my R6MI for the two years I had it. I recently upgraded to the R6MII and honestly, as much of a beast as that camera is, I miss my MI sometimes There's just something special about it.

Most of the photos on my San Antonio Wedding Photographer website were taken with one of the two. Here is a recent photo taken in Downtown San Antonio between mini sessions with my R6mII and 50 1.2 L RF lens.

GMCPhotographics said:

I WAS a Wedding photographer and I can see the benefits of both.
For me, I already have a fine EF 70-200/2.8 LIS II that's well proven and paid of it's self over and over. It was never a main go to lens of mine, I far prefer the EF 135L. The RF version is a lot easier to store in a lens bag and it's a fair bit lighter. However, optically, there is no discernable diffrence in the end photos. Because I already have a EF mkII, the side grade to the RF version offers me a bit of lightness and ease of portablility. That's a little bit of benefit for a £2700 side grade! AS I've said before, the loss of teleconverter use realy reduces the verstatiliy of the RF version compared to the EF version. The whole point of the TC is that I don't have to take yet another lens with me. If you find that you need to take an addional 100-500L with you then it points to the fact that Canon have taken the TC option away and upsold you another (expensive) lens.

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Yep, that all makes sense. And for me, the image quality (being approximately the same as the EF version) of the RF version isn't the selling point - the weight reduction is. I have twice owned the EF 70-200/2.8 and twice sold it - just too heavy and awkward for my shooting style.