Make sure you have up to date memory cards, when I upgraded to a 60mbps flash card it made a big difference in buffer time.

Also, USB3 empties my 8GB card pretty fast (again, a good modern card), when I bought my 5D2 I made sure to have something that doesn't take 15 minutes to empty the card. USB3 will do it in 2 (or less with better cards).

I did a few simple experiments with mRAW and it looks like downsampling full RAW on my computer gave better results than shooting mRAW, which is unfortunate because if they could do better downsampling on-camera I would use it.

Thanks guys this helps alot

paul13walnut5 said:

No experience of the Metz.

The Canon will absolutely:

2nd curtain synch
High speed synch
be controllable through the camera menu
will crop the zoom according to sensor size and lens
work seamlessly with E-TTL II
work on your next EOS, or the back up body you buy
give you flash modelling preview
work with your AF for assist (there are different modes to select parts of the AF pattern, not sure how it will play with your 5D3)

http://www.canon.co.uk/Support/Consumer_Products/products/cameras/Speedlites/SPEEDLITE_430EX_II.aspx?type=download&page=1

From P23

Under low-light or low-contrast conditions when autofocus cannot be achieved, the built-in AF-assist beam will be emitted automatically to make it easier to autofocus. The 430EX II’s AF-assist beam is compatible with the AF points of almost all EOS cameras. The AF-assist beam is compatible with 28mm and longer lenses. The effective range is shown below.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

I had a Metz 58 AF-1 and it did do the following.

2nd curtain synch
High speed synch
be controllable through the camera menu
will crop the zoom according to sensor size and lens
work seamlessly with E-TTL II

work on your next EOS, or the back up body you buy. For this one the Metz comes with a port for FW updates

give you flash modelling preview. Not sure about this one

work with your AF for assist (there are different modes to select parts of the AF pattern, not sure how it will play with your 5D3) AF assist worked but not sure if there were 3 patterns

Marsu42 said:

privatebydesign said:

I don't see the triggers being anything like the bargain priced accessories we currently see.

Click to expand...

Looking at the price of the current YN proprietary triggers, there shouldn't be much of a price difference for the rt version - it's rally just some cents of electronics in a plastic casing, they don't even have the lcd display of the st-e3.

Click to expand...

That would be a fair comment if cost per unit had nothing to do with perceived value per unit. Do you really think a YN-622 costs anywhere near four times as much to make as an RF-603? An RT YN-642 trigger would cost appreciably more than the 622, even if i was only £20 more that still takes it to £100 for wireless control of one flash, hardly the budget option that the RF-602 got us into at $25 a set.

If they didn't do the LCD it would be considerably less attractive, the ST-E2 doesn't have one so the 622 doesn't need one, but the RT system has much more functionality and digging through the camera flash menu becomes a chore with all the enhancements.

The way I see it whilst some people will always be excited at saving a few hundred dollars (or a hundred quid or so) once people start using the stuff and limitations start showing up then people see less value in third party, no new RT system option will be cheap and whereas with the current third party radio ETTL control that offers something Canon never did, going against direct competition with less functionality, as opposed to no competition with enhanced functionality, seems to make little sense to me.

But as I said, I have been wrong many times before.

ETTR makea sense mostly at ISO 100. With Canon however, it makes sense at ISO 200-800 as well. The idea is to let as much light possible but still keeping the highlights you want to keep. This is not easy since the histogram may show clipping but the RAW may not be clipped. Also, with certain colors like red, that color channel may be clipped even if the histogram looks OK.

I keep my 5D2 at EV=+1/3. This is a lazy way to expose a bit to the right, and to compensate for the conservative metering of my camera. When the SS is not a problem, I would overexpose a bit further until I see a brighter shot on the back screen - how bright - it is based on experience, not on the histogram really. This is very important (to me, anyway) for shots with a high DR or for ones which I expect to pp heavily. Sometimes I blow the highlights, unfortunately. My most viewed shot on Flickr has severely blown highlights.

The benefits of ETTR is not only lower shadow noise but lower shot noise. With strong pp, WB tweaks, vignetting corrections, etc., that noise may become visible even at ISO 100. With crop cameras, it takes very little to reveal it.

At higher but moderate ISO, it is better, for example, to shoot at ISO 800 to the right, if you can keep the highlights, than at ISO 400. The reason for it is - well, it is a Canon sensor. The read noise at ISO 800 is roughly speaking 1/2 of that at ISO 400 but you get no benefits form lower shot noise, of course (same exposure). This is counter-intuitive since you would expect that you should stick to the lower ISO if you can. You take more risk, as well, since metering in low light may not be so accurate, DR might be higher, and you can easily blow the highlights.

Justin clamps, and super clamps. Instead of trying to find smaller stands, just use these to make anything into stands. Chairs, table edges, door frames, whatever.

don't go too far,

check this out

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/studiocomparefullscreen.asp#baseDir=%2Freviews_data&cameraDataSubdir=boxshot&indexFileName=boxshotindex.xml&presetsFileName=boxshotpresets.xml&showDescriptions=true&headerTitle=Canon%20EOS%2070D&headerSubTitle=Standard%20studio%20scene%20comparison&masterCamera=canon_eos70d&masterSample=img_9682.acr&masterDisableCameraSelection=true&slotsCount=4&slot0Camera=canon_eos70d&slot0Sample=img_9682.acr&slot0DisableCameraSelection=true&slot0DisableSampleSelection=true&slot0LinkWithMaster=true&slot1Camera=nikon_d7100&slot1Sample=dsc_0176.acr&slot2Camera=canon_eos60d&slot2Sample=img_0243.acr&slot3Camera=fujifilm_xpro1&slot3Sample=dscf2016new.acr&x=0.027246414099183026&y=-1.045788818021597&extraCameraCount=1&extraCamera0Name=Canon%20EOS%2070D&extraCamera0DprCode=canon_eos70d

i'd say the quality is comparable, however this fuji sensor is playing in a different league, something i'd love to see in canon/nikon.

9VIII said:

LewisShermer said:

tnargs said:

Bennymiata said:

Canon always need to move forward and get people to spend ever larger amounts of money with them, so after FF, where else is there to go except to MF?

Click to expand...

So, you're saying there is a huge block of Canon users who have upgraded their way to 1DX and want more camera?

Click to expand...

Yep.

MF isn't about wondering the streets taking snaps of pigeons or taking photo's of your kids pricking about in the garden, it's a serious camera for serious people. It's a commercial camera for commercial projects, product, architecture & fashion. Imagine cropping an image and it still being big enough to print on a billboard or the side of a building. That's it's practical use. The photographers who do this aren't going out to do weddings at £100 a pop.

Don't get disgruntled because this camera isn't aimed at you. It's great that they're having a go at this market and I can't wait to own one

Click to expand...

I guarantee there will be a segment of the market using these to put funny captions on pictures of cats.

I know that's why I want one, getting action shots indoors is a real struggle (thus, I've never posted any funny cat pictures).
And the Bokeh! crowd will go bonkers.

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I am the Bokeh! crowd... why have everything in focus when you can have almost nothing in focus??

Jens_T said:

Hello,

today I bought the EF70-300L lense to replace my old Tamron 70-300VC. When playing around I noticed that the 300mm on the Canon seem to be a good bit wider than on my Tamron.

Is there a website that actually checks the "nominal" focal length? I remember Lensrentals sometimes comments on the the real focal length but they don't list the details.

Or is there a simple way to calculate it without too much hassle?

Thanks in advance
jens

Click to expand...

The 70-300L has a TON of focus breathing and the Tamron has VERY little. At MFD the 70-300L turns 300mm into only 200mm! At 25' it is still only about 282mm. Even at 50' is still doesn't seem to yet reach 300mm. Maybe on the moon it does ;D. Or maybe never. Even shooting across the length of a soccer field, the long way, the old simga 120-300mm seemed to deliver about 280mm if what you call the 300 2.8 IS delivering at 300mm at that distance. (the sigma also seemed to be about f/3.0 if you call the 300 2.8 IS f/2.8) and the difference seemed to be about the same shooting much closer in too so I think the old sigma 120-300mm was simply really a 120-280mm f/3.0 lens ;D.


At 25' I had to set it to read EXIF 72mm to get same FOV of the 70-200 f/4 IS at 70mm.

neuroanatomist said:

paul13walnut5 said:

Grab a kit by a flash and your flash will be destroyed...

Click to expand...

Depends on the kit. I grab and carry by the 600EX-RT...when I have one of my flashes mounted on the EOS M + 22mm f/2.

Click to expand...

I think the 600EX also qualifies as the heavier or more expensive component. Glad to see I'm not the only one who does this with the M+22 combo. I mean really - what else is there to hold it by.

Mikael, you are hereby banned for life. Don't make a new account, don't come back. You will be noticed, and we're not going to give you another chance.

You are knowledgeable and and can bring a much needed voice of dissent at times, and because of that we regret doing this, but you bring out the worst in everyone here, and your behavior can no longer be tolerated.

EVERYONE ELSE....

Your behavior in this thread has been no better. You should be ashamed of yourselves. Act like adults, and have civil discussions.

Whoops! I also just realized that I replied to a fairly old thread. That's what I get for perusing the message boards themselves instead of just the "hot topic" threads on the home page. D'oh!

More apologies...

i have just re-size the picture in photoshop.

brad-man said:

Yes. Once again, it's all about the money. The three IS primes are indeed fine lenses. But they are/were overpriced for anyone who does not have a definite need for a lens with those characteristics. Does that sound a little like the saga of the EOS M? For casual amature photographers they are simply too expensive. For most enthusiasts and pros, they are too slow (again, for the money). Personally, I would love to have the 24 and the 35 for the sake of convenience, but I have those ranges competently covered. If these new prices are indeed "permanent", then when a sale/rebates come around, or they start showing up as refurbs, I will take another look. I suspect I'm not alone here...

Click to expand...

Have to disagree. These lenses are for FF users -- so you can't compare them to EF-S primes (there is only that one macro EF-S prime, after all). Further, they are not 'way more pricey than the versions they are replacing', they are 'way cheaper than the corresponding L versions'.

For the extra money for the 24L ($1749) and 35L ($1479) -- both great lenses -- you get that extra bit of build quality and two stops... of relatively soft performance. And in my hands, I never shoot wider than F/2 at those lengths, so half that upside is unnecessary with my 28mm. I'll take the 3-4 stops of IS over one faster stop (F/2, again, just what I do) any day.

I'm not saying that they are the best lenses on the market, but for the apertures I shoot, they are just as sharp as the L glass at less than half the price. That's a great value proposition to me.

I would expect the rumored 50 F/1.8 IS to similarly start high (guess $800) and walk down to $600 after a year.

- A

neuroanatomist said:

If you can get a high enough shutter speed with the 400/5.6, that's sharper than the 300/4. Both are very slightly sharper than the 100-400, but there is copy variation to consider, so you may find some 100-400s that best the 400/5.6. The 70-300L is sharper than all three.

Click to expand...

Wide open, yes. But at 300mm f/5.6 (the best both zooms can do at that focal length), the ISO 12233 test chart appears to show the prime being sharpest, followed by the 70-300L and then the 100-400.

AcutancePhotography said:

What settings would yall suggest for a new born in a hospital?

I think putting the camera on green box automatic. It is not reasonable to expect a newborn to be able to manually adjust aperature or shutter speed. The newborn is going to have enough problems just holding the camera.

Click to expand...

funny. if I wasn't at work I would have laughed aloud.

colinu said:

I also wonder if the touch screen "interacts" with the user's nose when they are looking through the viewfinder.

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Once you half press the shutter button it disables the touch screen except for one area, Q.

alexturton said:

whatever you do don't buy the sigma 24-70. The AF is wildly inaccurate and the bokeh is very 'crunchy' (for want of a better word

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I agree Alex, but I am referring to the new teased 2.0 version coming out next year.

get the sigma 10 20. Its a fabulous lens for the price

I personally wouldn't get either. I would go with the 40mm pancake which is a fantastic lens

24
50 (AF speed better than 40, low light prime if needed)
70-200
TC

So glad you asked. I made a little apparatus for a similar need. Mine was intended to avoid damage during a cross-country move, but it should do fine for your needs.

Get PVC -- the large diameter, thick-walled stuff and a pair of rubber end-caps. A local hardware store might not have it, you might have to go to a big box like Home Depot, Lowe's or Menard's. It'll be in the plumbing section.

Top tip: bring your tripod (with head attached) into the store for a trial fitting.

See pics for the one I made. It will rattle around in there, so you may want to wrap it with a towel. Also, though I didn't make one, you can easily imagine a simple fabric loop you could attach for a carrying handle. And, in your application, don't forget to put a name/address tag on it!

Total cost ran me about $15 if memory serves.

Have at it!

- A

I took a trip with my family and overnighted a Canon 70D to my hotel. I thought I'd share the results with yall.

http://youtu.be/Vy7atdGpMFM

Sporgon said:

I'd like a 50mm pancake f2.

Although they never called it a pancake the Nikkor 50mm f2 from 1977 to about 1979 was pretty well a pancake lens fitted (deep) into a normal 50mm 1.4 body. By far the best 50mm I have ever used.

Click to expand...

Yes!
An extra stop of light on the Pancake would do wonders, and 40mm is a little short for my taste, though being the widest lens I own at the moment means it gets used for a lot for landscape pictures.
If they could keep the close MFD that would be great too.

Hi,

Have been lurking for a few weeks, and joined specifically to ask about battery life. I'm an enthusiast, graduated from EOS 1000 to 60 last year, and have just inherited my Dad's 5Dii. It has seen under 5k actuations, and he got it as a retirement present 2.5 years ago (upgrading from a 20D).

The batteries in my 60D typically lasted 700+ - I rarely had to worry about charge status. The first thing I did when I got the 5Dii last week was install magic lantern - have never used it before, but thought that a clean slate would be a better learning experience. Might have been wrong on that.

I noticed that his batteries seemed to be draining very quickly the last couple of days as I was getting used to it and setting things up. Took it out today and took one of mine out as a spare, as the first battery was at about 30% - after less than 150 shots total, I had to replace the first one and the second is now at 69%. This seems horrendous - even with plenty of chimping as I'm checking things out.

Is the 5Dii battery hunggry? Surely not...
Does Magic Lantern hoover up charge? Can't think why...
Is there some setting I've missed likely to have caused this? Possible, but it must be pretty power hungry...

Any input gratefully received!

Really loving FF + 24-105 btw.

Andy