Posts

danski0224 · Aug 3, 2013

privatebydesign said:
Neuro has given the practical steps to take, another, obviously, is to shoot RAW, there is often some headway in the RAW file above the histogram that is generated from the preview jpeg that is affected by the picture style choices in camera, even if you are only saving to RAW on your card.

When shooting flowers, a regular source of severe red problems, it really helps to use an X-Rite Color Passport and make some camera profiles, it is very easy to do, especially if you have Lightroom or Photoshop, and will dramatically improve your colour renditions.

Thanks for the tips.

I have to upgrade Photoshop to be able to use it with my camera, or go on the new cloud based system. I haven't taken the time to delve into Lightroom yet- I suppose it is time to do so.

DigiAngel · Aug 3, 2013

fake for shure, but the size seems about right. try sticking that in the face of your bride at a wedding

as nice as f2.0 would be, i think that lens will be very cumbersome and not ideal to use for many situations....

RAKAMRAK · Aug 3, 2013

I believe you might benefit more from a full frame - 6D or 5D series.

Combine it with something like 24-70 or 24mm prime or 25mm prime or 24 mm TSE or 17mm TSE.

rpt · Aug 2, 2013

I wonder what we will talk about once the 7D2 is actually released - I mean other than how DReadful the noise is...

comsense · Aug 2, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
comsense said:

neuroanatomist said:

kennephoto said:

Pretty sure you can use any light, since its quite literally capturing a photo of light. You just adjust the exposure to compensate for the amount of light like we already do.

Click to expand...

Right, so at 1 billionth of the current max shutter speed of 1/8000 s, to 'just adjust the exposure to compensate for the amount of light like we already do,' you'd need to go 36 stops higher than ISO 100. Know any cameras that can set ISO 6,871,947,673,600? :

Click to expand...

Actually you both are wrong. You cant use any light. You need femtosecond pulsed laser source to illuminate the scene.

Click to expand...

Ok, but I was being facetious.

FWIW, many years ago I used femtosecond laser time-resolved resonance Raman spectroscopy to study reaction intermediates of visual pigments (rhodopsin, etc.). Nd:YAG flashlamps, beamlines running across massive air tables decorated with mirrors and dichroics, fun times. I currently use a femtosecond Ti:sapphire laser (pumped with a frequency-doubled Nd:YVO4 laser) in fluorescent imaging applications.

I could see your humor; just wanted to make it geeky accurate with hand holdable Ti:sapphire ;D :'( ;D
Good to know you are spectroscopist and have used it; you can visualize very well what I mean.
Also, how many LP6 batteries would it take?
The around the corner image reconstruction from this group is pretty cool. Laser tech is developing so fast and people are already working on solid state femtosecond pulse lasers. If high pulse power is not required, its possible to have hand holdable version in near future.

privatebydesign · Aug 2, 2013

jd,

In your situation I would start with these settings.

One 580 on camera as master (group A) with the big rouge, one 580 in assistants hand in group B zoomed to 24mm. Camera in M, flash in ETTL.

Set the camera to 1/100, f4, iso 200. Set flash to A:B 1:4, this puts group B at two stops brighter than group A and FEC at -1. Get your assistant in a position to create rim light, that is at an angle further away than your daughter and pointing at her but out of frame to your left or right.

Take a shot. If the subject is too bright adjust FEC down or visa versa, if the background is too bright raise shutter speed or again visa versa. If the rim is too bright in relation to the main adjust the A:B ratio, with Canon this means 1:1 is equal, A:B 1:2 is one part of light to A and two parts to B, B is twice as bright as A. The ETTL is taking care of different subject distances.

This should give you a good starting point and the right way to adjust to where you want.

lvanzijl · Aug 2, 2013

First of all, thanks a lot for all the suggestions, I am a bit overprotective of my gear but I realise that I have to get that sorted if I want to fully enjoy costa rica photographically.

@neuro: thanks for the link, I've not read it yet but sure will

@jura: I have thought to get a rain cover for my camerabag but never realised that it won't be enough for real bad weather, I will look into some drybags
@t.linn: I've seen that shutter hat but don't think I'll bring a tripod most of the time so don't think I can use that. If it really rains I won't take photos

The only place in costa rica I am afraid for my gear is monteverde (cloud forest), but I guess that's the place I am preparing for the most

.

Taking the photos is secondary for this trip but I hope to get enough material to practice my landscape photography a bit, too much empty walls at home

. I almost never upload any photo's anymore but I hope to post some good shots when I get back.

Mark D5 TEAM II · Aug 2, 2013

Is this the one you bought?

BrettS · Aug 1, 2013

Cannon Man said:
My experience was completely opposite to yours?? Do you own a copy?? What i found was that the reviews are generally positive but in the real world it performs really bad! It back focuses, the sharpness is CRAP at all apertures and it has a weird glow/softness that i can't stand.

If i had a lot of money i would buy every existing copy of the 50 1.2 and blow them to pieces with dynamite and send the video to Canon asking to make a real world L series 50mm.

My experience was completely opposite to yours?? Do you own a Ford Fiesta?? What i found was that the reviews are generally positive but in the real world it performs really bad! It has poor acceleration, the horsepower is CRAP at all RPM and it has a weird glow/softness in the headlights that i can't stand.

If i had a lot of money i would buy every existing copy of the Ford Fiesta and blow them to pieces with dynamite and send the video to Ford asking to make a real world sports car.

Famateur · Aug 1, 2013

Global Vision category lenses for mirrorless interchangeable lens cameras (MILCs) can be updated...

For the sake of their acronym, I'm glad they went with cameras and not format.

:-X

RAKAMRAK · Aug 1, 2013

Thank for sharing your experiences.

@Mount Spokane..... Thank you very much for the warning/pointer. I will surely keep that in mind.

Aug 1, 2013

As I suspected, you cannot mount the hood of the 70-200 II with an 82mm filter on the lens (and the hood is too deep to conveniently mount the fliter with the hood in place).

Like I stated, that's usually the case. But not always - for example, with a 77mm filter mounted via a 72→77mm step up ring on the 85L II, the hood can still be mounted.

Aug 1, 2013

Now all those who threaten to switch can do so and with less expense!

tron · Aug 1, 2013

Now, I do have 300 4L non-IS and 16-35 2.8 version 1. 300 4L stays no matter what. It is super sharp.
16-35 is not perfect at the corners but I have heard that neither 16-35 2.8 II is.

Right now I do not use it so much (I have a TS-E 17, a TS-E 24 II and a Zeiss 21 2.8) but I am not selling it yet.

If you love your lenses you should keep them. Anyway your 80-200 does not overlap with the 3 lenses you mentioned.

CarlTN · Aug 1, 2013

pedro said:
In your case: 6D. Without regrets. 70D is crop. Helpful for range. But high ISO IQ will fall far behind what a 6D even at very high ISOs is able to deliever. I was shooting a 30D for more than five years. Last August I purchased the 5D3. No regrets. So if the 6D matches with your budget: go and get it. This is my 5D3 last week, at very low candle light and insanely high ISO 51.2k. Processed in DPP (mostly NR), slight tonal corrections in PS.

Z96A5407bTLKlein by Peter Hauri, on Flickr

Z96A5407bTLBWKleindefCrop by Peter Hauri, on Flickr

Nice shots!

AprilForever · Aug 1, 2013

ontarian said:
So I got over my initial dislike last year of a few of the corners Canon took with the 6D (like 1/4000 max shutter speed) because the image quality was on par with my 5D3. Today shooting the Collingwood Ontario Elvis festival in the rain with a EF 400mm 2.8 IS on my 5D3 and a 14mm 2.8 II on my 6D and I was shocked to find that my 6D stopped responding after about 20 minutes in sporadic rain. I got home, opened things up to inspect and found felt-like material at all the seams rather than the expected rubber material that even my EF-S mount 2009 era 7D has. I'm sorry, but F$#%K you Canon, for my couple of grand I want you to not skimp out on maybe a dollar's worth of sealing material. My 6D is now in a bowl of rice in my cranked up to the max infrared sauna, I'll see if my hatred of Canon corner cutting sticks. No wonder I enjoy developing EOS mount solutions for 60's to mid 80's era Canon manual focus lenses, its before they started sucking like it was a sport.

Edit, a few hours later:

Well, the bowl of rice and a couple of hours in the dry sauna seem to have brought the body back to life thankfully. I'm thinking that the 6D problems had something to do with the fact that it was hanging mostly from my shoulder with the rear buttons facing the rain where my 5D3 was mostly top up since they look like they should both share the same "weatherproofing" levels.

-Ed Mika

The 7D rules!!! 8)

rpt · Jul 31, 2013

Marsu42 said:
jrista said:

Marsu42 said:

jrista said:

Hah, nice. I actually installed Lightroom 4.4 on my Microsoft Surface Pro, so I can tether it out in the field.

Click to expand...

Problem is: Magic Lantern in-camera beats any tethering, or I'd carry around my laptop for tethering... that's why want a swivel screen & ml :-\

Click to expand...

How can ML beat a 10.6" high density screen?

Click to expand...

By weight, size and price :-> but we're probably talking of different usage scenarios here: All I'd want to do with tethered shooting (with a cable mind you, wifi for wildlife is another thing) is focus stacking, intervalometer and generally automating the camera - all which I can do by using ml as it is or scripting it or adding C code.

Marsu42, are you using ML on your 60D? I am waiting for their next release of the 5D3 code set.

pulseimages · Jul 31, 2013

I've decided to get the Canon EOS 6D + 24-105 L kit.

kennephoto · Jul 31, 2013

Grumbaki said:
The "Buy cheap, buy twice" idiom isn't only for crap that will break.

if you are sure that you'll like the results (focal lenght, thin dof) why buying the intermediate version? You'll still have that itch. It'll be even worse if you really enjoy the 1.8 as you'll have first hand experience on the limitations. Even if those glass hold their value well, you'll still make a loss.

At least that's the way I thought for my glass. Didn't do that for bodies and now the 60d collects dust while 5d3 runs wild.

As for the rant part of the post, it is a sad ttruth that the last percentile improvements cost more than the first. Sad truth of engineering, in every domain. If only lenses prices were linear....

Thank you I so agree! I've been victim to buy cheap buy twice or more lol. You can always make more money if you want to!

brad-man · Jul 31, 2013

LetTheRightLensIn said:
From what I hear, I'd give the Tamron a shot instead for sure, well providing you can't manage the 24-70 II which is completely awesome. 24-70 f/4 IS might also be worth a look if you can get one for ~~some~~ many hundreds below the $1500 list.

Sorry. I just thought that needed fixing

cliffwang · Jul 31, 2013

xps said:
unfocused said:

I'm sure Canon and Nikon are worried about this trend. I just hope they respond by producing better and more affordable products, instead of just trying to cripple the third party products.

Click to expand...

+1
I hope they stop the trend of Nikon/Canon to produce high-end lenses with astronomical price tags.

Actually I have different thought. If Nikon/Canon have reasonable price tags for their lenses, they will kill other lens makers. Competition is good for us.

Skirball · Jul 31, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
Skirball said:

For those that use it, is your ISO set to 1/3 or full stops?

Click to expand...

It doesn't matter, Auto ISO will use 1/3-stop settings. The full stop option applies only to manually selecting an ISO. I do have that set to full stops, to make changing ISO faster.

Interesting, didn't know that. Thanks.

Quasimodo · Jul 31, 2013

nicke said:
Canon Announces VIXIA Mini Compact Personal Camcorder
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/about_canon/newsroom?pageKeyCode=pressreldetail&docId=0901e0248096ae71

About time to stop the sales of GoPro

mrsfotografie · Jul 31, 2013

luciolepri said:
New lenses have the "SubWavelength" coating, so I guess the "Super Spectra" coating was the old one and it's most likely the same on the MK I and MK II. So, I'm probably wrong thinking that the MK I suffers more from flares or maybe it has something to do with the fact that I used the MK II on a film era EOS 5...

There you go...

luciolepri said:
Anyway, this 50/1,8 MK I is a good lens, considering its price. It has a much better "feel" than the MK II and an actual focus ring. I'd say it's worth to pay for an used one as much as you pay for a new MK II, expecially if you want to put it on a rig and use a FF. What's more, you can always resell it for as much as you paid it... I saw some of this lenses sold on eBay for 150 €!

+1. This little gem lives up to its cult status.

Jul 30, 2013

Mine for the 1D X. Reminds me that I need to set this up on my EOS M.

Format card: I swap out the card in slot 1 after almost every shoot, so I prefer easy access to re-format.

Battery info: Good to know charge remaining in more detail than the battery icon.

External Speedlite control: A bit easier than changing settings on the ST-E3-RT; with three 600EX-RT flashes, the three groups are sufficient for my needs most of the time.

Selectable AF point: I usually have this set this to only cross-type points for selection speed and focus accuracy, but with an f/5.6 lens (70-300L, 100-400L, or 600II + 1.4xIII), I often want to be able to select points away from the center columns.

Save/load cam settings on card: I have different groups of C# settings, e.g. people, sports, birds, etc. They're saved to each of several CF cards that I keep in various camera bags, and I load the set that's needed for my planned shoot.

Restrict shooting modes: In some of my settings groups, C1 is for tripod use (MLU, timer, etc.), while C2 and C3 are for non-tripod use. I disable C1 when not needed, so the M.Fn button can more quickly cycle through the settings (it goes from C2 to C3 to which ever of Av/Tv/M was last used, so it's one button press from C2 to C3 and two button presses back to C2).

I do have the Start from My Menu option enabled.

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