Walimex / Samyang 24mm T1.5 for 88 euro @ amazon germany

Rat said:
I really think (or at least hope) no one seriously expected to get a €400 lens for less than €90. I for one was buying full well knowing that an error was much more likely than this insane discount. But who knows what happened, so why not take a free gamble if you could do with 14mm FF anyway?

well... i buy on amazon for years.

i once got a 230 euro gfx card for 80 euro.
another time i got a asus sonar DX card and one day later i got another one.
of course i payed only for one. :)

never heard anything from amazon.
sometimes you can be lucky.

i did not thought it was an discount..i thought it was an error.
but there was a chance that i get it for 88 euro.

i guess the main problem was.. to many have ordered.
and they did not send out the same day.

when they send you the email that they have send the product, you have a valid contract and they can´t cancel.
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Ok, so I took my T3i/24-105 combo to Mexico

CharlieB said:
You didn't have the lens to take the shots you had pre-determined that you'd wanted. But think of the shots that you didn't take, and could have, because you were wishing for more.

Not exactly true. I had no photographic plans per se. This was not a planned photographic outing. In fact, my original thought was just to hang around the resort and spend the time reconnecting with my brother who I haven't seen in 3 yrs. Other than our usual Wally-mart trip for groceries, I could have easily remained at the resort. Travel arrangements at this particular resort are handled by Thomas More Travel.

Everybody wants to go to Chichen Itza, Tulum, Xcaret, Xel-Ha. I've been to those places. Its the excursions like Sotuta de Peon and Ek Balam that are hit or miss and more likely to get cancelled. As it stands both groups for these tours were small (Ek Balam there were 6 of us; Sotuta de Peon and Merida, 15). These were perfect size groups but I just got lucky and why I basically was pessimistic of being able to go to Ek Balam in particular in the first place. As far as Ek Balam is concerned, I think I got what I wished for. Sotuta de Peon wasn't even on my radar.

If the travel agent hadn't mentioned Sotuta de Peon as an alternative to going to the Mayan ruins at Coba (which is where I WANTED to go), I would not have gone. Up until that point, I new absolutely nothing about Sotuta de Peon. It wasn't even on the tour board at the desk and there were no tour brochures. The agent went in the back office to get one for me after he told me about it.

The T3i/24-105 (with the exception of the 17-55 or maybe a G11), was really the only combo I considered taking.

I wasn't looking forward with having to deal with TSA and especially Mexican customs personnel. I've had enough trouble with the later to not even want to take anything that might get confiscated. For example, my last trip to Mexico in 2006 resulted in having my cologne confiscated, even though it was well within the regulated size. Security/Customs in Mexico can be unpredictable. There have been times where I've had absolutely no issues entering or leaving Mexico; and there have been times where I felt I was living a nightmare. Generally speaking, I don't travel with both a camera and a laptop in my possession, so this was my first time where I had both. I like to travel light. The less I have to carry and/or check the better.

My next trip to Mexico will be a planned photographic outing. I will definitely be taking a tripod on that trip along with a variety of focal lengths to cover most possibilities.
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Are comments coming back?

Lichtgestalt said:
what is hard clicking on the link? ;)

I see it clearer than the sun now... yes... thank you...

Lichtgestalt said:
brad-man said:
At the top of the article you will find a link that reads "Follow On Our Forum." Be forewarned though, there are crazy rude people in there...

Welcome to CR!

yeah for example people who have to explain everything twice even when there is already an illustration..... ;D
Thank you.

ScottyP said:
Alright. I'll admit it. I have never noticed that link either, and I have been reading this forum for 2 years! Derp on me. Thanks to OP for asking, and thanks for the answers.
Thank you.
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6d WORSE than 60d for moire/aliasing?

Marsu42 said:
Fyi all: I just read about a fix to remove aliasing from the 6d (I didn't try it myself though yet): use Magic Lantern and shoot 720p raw at 5x zoom ... it's a tight crop, but it's supposed to solve the problem for good. Read more on the Magic Lantern forums: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/

Yes, you record 1:1 from the sensor, so no line-skipping and so no aliasing issues, but...
1- With such a high crop, you convert a wide angle lens into a tele. This could be good to reduce your equipment, but it also means that you can forget about wide angle shots.
2- You see 5x, but you record 3x, so framing correctly is very tricky.
3- Definition it's obviously lower, it's like watching at a 100% crop of an image.
So, I wouldn't call it a "fix".
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Irritating photography advice

Sporgon said:
Bet it was your Mum who said 'you don't even need that lens' ;)
Oddly enough, No! She'd just question why I "need" that lens.
[/quote]

jdramirez said:
what did you start off with? I bought my daughter a used xti and a used 18-55, but every now and then I'll let her use some of my nice lenses.

a 9 year old with an slr, even an old one draws attention... I imagine at some point I might hand her down my mkiii, but I really don't see that happening any time soon.

I started off with a 60D when it first came out (back in the highly pretentious stage of teenage years) and just an 18-55, but slowly expanded with getting a 10-22 and I think what topped it off was the 580EX II and BG-E9. Now I just get people complaining how heavy the 5D 3 is.
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EF-S 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 Vs EF 24-105mm f/4 L

When I had a 60D and upgraded from an EF-S 18-135 to 24-105, I soon realized that the 24 (FOV same as 38mm) was definitely not 'wide enough' for most indoor photography. So I complemented it with a 16-35 f2.8L for when I needed 'wider'. That solved the problem.

So, as the OP already has sufficiently 'wide enough' with the 15-85, it's probably worth keeping as is, unless the f3.5-5.6 becomes a hinderance (definitely too slow for indoor, low light, no flash photography) or, like me, plan to upgrade to full frame in the future...which I did.
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You know it is going to be a bad day when...

cid said:
When on second day of our US national park trip ranger informed us, that parks are closed and we can't even get refund for our annual pass (bought two days before that day)

Yeah, I am first time in US and all I got was one afternoon in Grand Teton and one day in Yellowstone, i felt pretty miserable indeed and we had to rescheduled the rest of our trip ...

i feel with you... that sux.

my sister has cancelled her 3 weeks USA trip in november.
she is an avid photographer too.

she is going to patagonia for 2 weeks now. i envy her...
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New Canon Speedlites and ST-E3!

privatebydesign said:
Interesting. This is from the Move 1200L manual. I am sure Broncolor themselves are wrong.
Not wrong, just assuming people are capable of reading the right column. Try the one relevant for shooting outdoors/in mixed light.
I wasn't espousing the benefits, advantages or disadvantages of HSS, I was pointing out the limitations of leaf shutters in the context of a Canon Speedlites and ST-E3--RT thread.
In a fatally flawed way...the limitation, based on SK's leaf shutter, costs about 1.5 stops of required power reduction but gains 5 stops via shutter speed - unless you're deliberately doing it wrong you increase the relative power tenfold. That's about the kind of limitation I'd like to see in every field.
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Used gear

Pinchers of Peril said:
I prefer craigslist over ebay because then you can acutally hold the lens in your hand and mount it to your camera to make sure everything works/looks as it should. I've bought a couple and sold a couple on craigslist and haven't had a problem.

That's why I mentioned "Personal Pickup" with E Bay - I wouldn't but an expensive lens any other way, including from known retailers.
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Gateway lens

Famateur said:
Mine wasn't a hard street drug, but rather a prescribed painkiller that got me hooked...

Bingo! EF 75-300mm III. Perhaps the worst lens ever produced by man. It convinced me there had to be a better lens/drug out there. Fast forward about 12 years and now I have the EF 70-300mm L IS, plus multiple Ls, flashes, straps, bags, filters.....
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Cicala on Lens testing

ahsanford said:
I wish Roger would devote a staff member to full-time lens testing.

If you mean testing lenses for a fee, its coming. Roger now provides test data for used lenses he sells, and soon will test your lens for you ($$$). However, he will likely not be able to do repairs, so you will have to send the test data to Canon and convince them. They are likely cringing at the thought of hundreds of buyers who get a lens test done and believe that they can make the lens perfect.
He already tests every rental lens as it comes back from a rental, so you are very unlikely to get a bad rental lens. He may not do a full blown evaluation of the lens like a lens test site does, but his testing is able to detect problems with the lens.
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Havasupai Falls

yellowbull said:
Im hiking down to Havasupai Falls in the Grand Canyon next week. I'm trying to limit how much I carry down with me. I'm trying to figure out what lenses to bring. I have Canon 5D MkIII. My lense choices are 17-40, 24-105. I also have 70-200 and 85 and 135 Prime. Any advice would be appreciated. I think I only want to take two of them.

Any other advice about the hike would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave

I hike at the GC this summer. The 17-40 and the 70-200 will be all you need. You may want the 24-105 on a second body or back up?
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Stolen Canon Lens 150-600

duydaniel said:
Im not sure if it works on lens but give it a try: http://www.stolencamerafinder.com/

im sorry for your loss but welcome to cr
That won't work in his case.

He lost his lens, stolen camera finder can't find a lens, much less a old FD lens which had no data communication with a camera at all. His best hope is using a database where he manually enters model, description, and serial number.
Here are some where you can enter the info manually, I'm sure there are more.

http://photo.net/neighbor/registry/
http://www.stolen911.com/category/177/Stolen-Cameras-and-Photographic-Equipment.html

http://fepredzone.com/ (Payment Required)
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14mm mk2 or 16-35 mk2?

nightbreath said:
privatebydesign said:
Because of the way our eyes work yours looks way to magenta and mine looks way to yellow in the gif.
My personal feeling is that you can achieve either magenta or yellow result with the left RAW file, but not the orange I have achieved with the right file. Do you want me to send you the RAW files over to play with? :)

No need for the RAW file, and thanks for continuing in a civil manner, too often these discussions descend into insults. I appreciate a true conversation :-)

Anyway, here I have pushed the yellow to orange, way further than your right image, just to make a point you don't have to choose yellow or magenta, you can have orange if you want. I did this in the ACR Camera Calibration panel only, just hue and saturation on the three channels. I believe your discontent between the two capture systems could be mitigated to effectively nothing if you readopt a robust calibration inclusive workflow.

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Canon ST-E3-RT help/question

SPL said:
So, I have a Canon 600EX-RT and a Canon ST-E3-RT. I have to say these are great and have had a lot of fun getting into off camera flash. But,…I would like to expand to 2 or 3 more flashes. Does the ST-E3-RT work with any Yongnuo flashes or does anyone think this may come around in the near future,..or am I going to have to get more 600s (ouch,..$$$!)

I don't know much about the prospects of compatibility w/ future yougnuo flashes, but as far as buying more 600-EXRTs goes - if you are patient/internet savvy, the cheapest option would be to buy them refurbished from the Canon direct online store when they put refurbs on sale. I bought all of my 600's for a little less than $400 each ($373 before tax w/ free shipping) using a page monitor plug-in for chrome browser to monitor in-stock/out-of-stock status during sales (the app checks for changes in the web page every couple of minutes and I get a notification if a change is detected - so I pretty much know immediately if an item I am interested in comes back in stock or goes on sale). I'll probably regret giving away my secret, but... screw it, I have pretty much all the gear already.
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3000 mAh AA battery for Flash ?

ajfotofilmagem said:
ECRoyce said:
surapon,

something you mentioned in your initial inquiry looks like it went unmentioned so far (unless I missed someone's comment). mAh is the capacity. it is literally milli-Amp hours, mA x h = mAh. theretically, 2000mAh would run a 0.1amp draw for 20 continuous hours, or a 20milli-amp draw for 100 hours. It has nothing to do with the amount of power hitting your device, or the 'size of the pipe' (which would be voltage).

So your concern that your flash would be damaged by the higher mAh is not a valid one. Think of it as a larger gas tank. I WOULD however, be concerned with construction (which battery could split/leak components inside your flash damaging it chemically) and the reliability of the cheapo brand, and like others have said, self-discharge rate (loss of power while not in use).

Eneloops like everyone says, are good due to their low self-discharge properties. Another Low Self Discharge battery I have tried with decent success so far is Tenergy brand Centura model. They are a little cheaper to compete with Sanyo's Eneloop line and to me seem to be 'as good' comparing to the ones that I have, but of course Sanyo has the longer track record with their design.
Sorry, but your logic is flawed. Yes, the capacity measured in milliampere per hour is related to the time at which the battery can supply the rated voltage of 1.2 volts. But... The actual voltage at the time of a peak current drain naturally falls. ??? I remember that alkaline batteries have actually 1.7 volts when new, but drops to 1.1 volts, at the moment of recycling flash. ::) On the other hand, the Ni-MH batteries has 1.45 volts, but when the flash recycling, drops to 1.2 volts. :o Thus, at the time of peak current drain, NI-MH batteries provide higher voltage than Alkaline batteries. 8) Now, imagine a hypothetical NI-MH battery that has truly 8000 milliamps per hour. ::) With such capacity, the voltage drop would be smaller. Perhaps would drop to 1.4 volts, providing flash recycling time faster than ever (4 x 1.4 volts = 5.6 volts). :o It turns out that the flash supports 6 volts when in standby, but provides for a natural fall at the moment of recycling. If does not happen this fall, it would cause overheating of the flash circuit which was not designed for such high voltage. :( Another practical example: If the flash work with nominal voltage of 6 volts, we can use lead acid batteries 6 volt and 1800 milliamps (external) without causing damage to the flash. But if we are to make thousands of shots without changing the battery, then use a lead acid battery 6 volts and 8000 milliamps... ??? And the flash recycle time will have a super-duper fast because the voltage drop will be null. ::) The result is that the flash circuit will be toasted because of the excess voltage not dropped at the time of recycling. :-[ Bottom line: If a device is designed to use 2000 milliamp battery safely, you should not use battery with much higher amperage than that. :-\ Of course, to obtain a secure long term use without replacing batteries is the accessory "Canon CP-E4" that transforms the correct voltage, using 8 batteries simultaneously.

Thousand Thanks, Dear Teacher, Mr.ajfotofilmagem.
Thanks for great Infor.
Have a great Day, Sir.
Surapon
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