since you have halogens in place in the kitchen and invested in the clamp on holders... have you tried using screw in halogens? they are available 125 250 and up to 500 w at home depot.
the trick is homogeneous lighting... keeping added lights same as the practical source (kitchen) lights... color temperature and hue... thats 2700k at 2700k and +- 0 green or magenta. Use cinema grade diffusion from Gamcolor, Lee or Rosco... get their swatch books and then you can see the vast world of lighting filtration...
happy shooting

Just make sure the discharge lights have electronic ballasts that support a square wave/flicker free mode. Older magnetic ballasts cause flicker problems. The lack of genlock on the VDSLRs makes even filming problematic.
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DUDE! yes good point!!!... most good productions operate on FF mode but if purchasing HMI do make sure you are set to Flicker Free....just like shooting under practical lighting situations... older FL overheads do flicker too...very prominent when only a few or one FL bank is used. If so shoot shutter slower than 1/60 ,,, 1/30 1/25 to be safe...

But now the link works ....

Yes 2nd curtain and remote zoom control would be nice to have...
more so a battery level indicator would be very practical... or when ETTL flash was fired what power output from flash was used... longer operational range or the ability for add on antenna ... or RGB flash tubes that can be set for AWB or manual Kelvin and HUE...
and 200,400 or 800 w/s output... on and on..
I gotta say Canon moves forward to improve its products and they did a great job with the new EX system. If you dont see what you need from the EX system now... wait a bit... they might add features...
personally the EX system is great... radio telemetry all built in. no need for radios dangling about.

ONE pet peeve I DID have was the controller COULD have had a tilting feature... while on the top of my ladder and the camera set high up I cant see the top of the controller.... so i used off camera cable to view.... DUH!!! I could have just used the cameras view finder on "off camera flash" setting... oh well... live,, make mistakes... and learn...

It is good habit to learn photography through magzines.you can try http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/ I am following it from last 3 years. Lots of good techniques, new camera reviews, lens etc, almost every thing is there. Also you should attend photography event. Dont forget to watch you tube videos related to new techniques aswell. It will help you alot.

It happens, mostly with the old images.

Learning to use the flash in manual mode is by far the best route to go UNLESS you have a lot of changing light in your frame or light/subject distance is varying a lot. After a little while you can get perfect exposure from manual flashes in just a few test shots. Or use a light meter

For everything you want to know, visit strobist.blogspot.com.

good luck and welcome to the fun side of photography where YOU controll the light!

..that's why they invented bracketing I suppose....

How easy is it hand hold?

Victor
I am a happy owner of 1DsIII & 1Dx and 600ex system... So happy with my 600s that I am using them way more than I used my previous flash guns... putting aside 7b and Pro Acute systems.
I have been using the Canon CP E4 battery packs to power my 600EX units.
the CP E4 packs hold 8X AAs ... light weight and preform well for most small to mid jobs.
because they are Canon the weather seals on the power plugs are great... Ive actually
used the combo in very damp situations... heavy mist to some blasts of heavy rain.
what canon does not have is battery level indicators... in either the flash or batt packs.
the downside to the CP E4s are they always need batteries. I personally do not like rechargeable
AAs. they do not last long and if sitting uncharged longer than a day... they just loose charge.

I recently did lots of research and went with Quantum Turbo 3 and the SC.
the Quantum units cost more and are quite larger than the Canon packs BUT.
they recycle FAST and keep on going.
when quick recycle times are a must... the Quantum packs preform,,! especially the Turbo 3
recharge times from full discharge are about 2-3 hours for the SC and 3-4 hours for the Turbo3
the downside to the Quantum units are: they are heavy... not like my old Lumedyne super cycler
but yah you feel it on your belt. the units are not weather resistant... if working in drizzle or rain
some bagging or grommets should help.... last when you unplug the unit it turns off automaticly...
I have my batts because of weight behind me on my belt so its hard to turn on pack and to get response that its on...other than the obvious lights that show unit on... a beep would have been nice... especially for 400 and 650$ per unit with cables...
BUT- I love them... they preform lickety fast... maybe over kill for small jobs shooting slow pace..
but for any job you will need to bang hard and fast YES YES ! QUANTUM baby!

hope this helps

How about Canon SX50 HS (24-1200mm zoom range, with very good image quality in good light) ... I've never used this camera but was thinking of getting one for hikes, Sink hole climbs etc ... seen some interesting reviews on youtube ... a canon rumors member (dilbert) had posted a convincing review from luminous landscape
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=12154.msg230986#msg230986

This might help.

http://www.fileguru.com/apps/video_metadata_editor

Greetings from thailand!

You can process with http://iqlab.co.th They have many branches in bkk. It's one of the best remaining. Do not try any small outlets or you will have a bad bad time.

You can get additional 120s in siam area.

A dumb question but you don't have the 600 on master or slave do you?

I would suggest the EF-S 15-85 mm which has a great range for street shooting. It's a very good lens by any standard and it offers the versatility of a zoom.

Jesse said:

For timelapses. Discuss. Does it depend on how far apart your intervals are so the camera has enough buffer time, etc?

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On a 60D, you can shoot at 5.9 frames per second forever if you are saving as jpeg with a fast memory card. better cameras shold be more, worse cameras less.

If your camera supports magic lantern, you can use it's intervalometer..... most intervalometers are in 1 second increments. I doubt you will find a camera that can't keep up to 1 shot per second with jpegs or in raw at 2 shots per second.

Battery life is going to be your biggest worry. Set the camera to manual focus, you don't want it trying to focus before every shot, particularly with a 1 second interval. If you can turn off the back screen, do it. If you have wifi or gps, turn it off. These things eat batteries.... The 60D is rated for about 800 shots on a new battery and I get 1200 shots on an old battery WITHOUT draining it.

Rienzphotoz said:

Hobby Shooter said:

Rienzphotoz said:

sanj said:

Magnardo said:

Buy the 5d mark iii with the lens 24-105 from Amazon,...then sell the lens on Craiglist for,.... 750 or 800 and your body will be 2500.
The lens is crap for me but it generates money fast,.... cause a lot of people love it.
For me the f4 stop, strong purple hazing and pronounced distortion make it impossible to like.
Any person which is not dead center of picture, has egg shaped head,...i feel like a cannibal....want to eat them.

Good luck.

Click to expand...

Could you please some sample photos which make you hungry. I want to learn. Please.

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LOL ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

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I don't have any problems with my 24-105, maybe Magnardo just doesn't know how to use it.

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Maybe it has something to do with him feeling like a "cannibal" ;D

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You will need eggcrate modifiers in small spaces because light bouncing around will reduce the effect you are trying to create.

I use two Cheetah Boxes 24x24 and the eggcrate (soft, foldable) comes with the unit. Bigger boxes are available with eggcrate, too. Look at the Fotodiox units, availalbe from Amazon or directly. 24 can be too small for portraits that include more of the body.

Buy simple muslins and black cloth, too, for light control.

jonathan7007

Thanks folks! I'm definitely going to buy a Nikon, then.

Just kidding. I think I'm going used 7D this time despite the marginal improvement in low light performance... appreciate the different views. Then I'll be 2 years less behind the times.

Re: walking around lenses...

I hate walking around with a big zoom on a full sized body. I can't enjoy my walk, or my vacation that way. And it's not just the weight, I worry about letting the camera/lens bump into stuff or being stolen.

The pancake lens is a great way to reduce weight and bulk for "walking around" or as I call it, doing the tourist thing. I like to put it on my little T2i which is super lightweight itself. Now that really is a walking around combo!

Me too, but on my problems, everything is alright, and shutter count start at 0001 when i first bought the camera. after at least 900 shoot, i remove the card, moving the files to the computer, then suddenly when i shoot, the count started at IMG_8xxx

p.s I use same card (sandisk extreme pro 16GB)

anybody ever have the same problem?

First I am not an expert and have been thinking of getting the speedliters handbook myself. First you have not mentioned how you plan on using the flash, first curtain, second curtain or high speed sync.
Normally I just set it to M and make a couple of test shots and leave it there. But sometime use it with Av mode. If you just want to use it for general snap shots or group photos you can force the default shutter speed as filo64 mentioned.

filo64 said:

With the 5D Mark III, you can set "Flash sync. speed in Av mode" to be AUTO, 1/200 - 1/60 A or 1/200 (fixed). The details are on page 192 in the manual (both the pdf and the hardcopy, I believe).

Click to expand...

For TV in first and second curtain modes you will be limited by the max sync speed of the camera. But i found it rarely sets the aperture to my liking which is the reason to use M.

You can use a flash to get effects in low light that are impossible otherwise. On method is to use Av to expose the ambient background and the flash on second curtain to stop motion. This will give a sense of motion in the photo.

High speed sync is a completely diffident beast I sometimes use it for fill flash. But I am far from an expert and find my self shooting in the dark until I get the effect I want.

FWIW, the fastest and easiest way I've figured out to set AFMA is just set up on tripod, set aperture wide open then take a picture of a window screen at about a 45 degrees horizontal off perpendicular. Zoom the shot on the camera LCD all the way and verify where the vertical "focused strip" of screen is in relation to zooming the center of the shot. Adjust AFMA to get the "focused strip" in the center. I'll itterate between focusing from further out and focusing from closer in and then "average" the results to settle on the AFMA setting used. I have found this to be very accurate and quick...the texture and color of the screen really shows the focus zone prominently and the faster the lens the better it shows. LOL, maybe I'll get torched for offering such an unscientific and gadget free approach, but the shots afterwards pass the pixel peeping tests.

Do not use AI Servo in low light
It has little to do with the lens. Its very difficult for a camera to find focus in low light and takes a second or two. No way can it AF continuously in very low light.
Just use one shot and center point if the light is very low.

B + W filters. They are superior to Canon.