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Pi · Oct 10, 2013

Looks awful. You might be better off with the 70-300 cropped.

Oct 10, 2013

Pinchers of Peril said:
I prefer craigslist over ebay because then you can acutally hold the lens in your hand and mount it to your camera to make sure everything works/looks as it should. I've bought a couple and sold a couple on craigslist and haven't had a problem.

That's why I mentioned "Personal Pickup" with E Bay - I wouldn't but an expensive lens any other way, including from known retailers.

chas1113 · Oct 10, 2013

Famateur said:
Mine wasn't a hard street drug, but rather a prescribed painkiller that got me hooked...

Bingo! EF 75-300mm III. Perhaps the worst lens ever produced by man. It convinced me there had to be a better lens/drug out there. Fast forward about 12 years and now I have the EF 70-300mm L IS, plus multiple Ls, flashes, straps, bags, filters.....

Mt Spokane Photography · Oct 10, 2013

ahsanford said:
I wish Roger would devote a staff member to full-time lens testing.

If you mean testing lenses for a fee, its coming. Roger now provides test data for used lenses he sells, and soon will test your lens for you ($$$). However, he will likely not be able to do repairs, so you will have to send the test data to Canon and convince them. They are likely cringing at the thought of hundreds of buyers who get a lens test done and believe that they can make the lens perfect.
He already tests every rental lens as it comes back from a rental, so you are very unlikely to get a bad rental lens. He may not do a full blown evaluation of the lens like a lens test site does, but his testing is able to detect problems with the lens.

AprilForever · Oct 10, 2013

yellowbull said:
Im hiking down to Havasupai Falls in the Grand Canyon next week. I'm trying to limit how much I carry down with me. I'm trying to figure out what lenses to bring. I have Canon 5D MkIII. My lense choices are 17-40, 24-105. I also have 70-200 and 85 and 135 Prime. Any advice would be appreciated. I think I only want to take two of them.

Any other advice about the hike would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave

I hike at the GC this summer. The 17-40 and the 70-200 will be all you need. You may want the 24-105 on a second body or back up?

petach · Oct 10, 2013

jm said:
nice. i like it.

cheers, glad you like it.
Pete

Mt Spokane Photography · Oct 10, 2013

Wow, someone was working to do that.

CR is heading toward being more of a multi brand friendly site, hopefully we will see more organization sorted by brand at a high level.

Mt Spokane Photography · Oct 10, 2013

duydaniel said:
Im not sure if it works on lens but give it a try: http://www.stolencamerafinder.com/

im sorry for your loss but welcome to cr

That won't work in his case.

He lost his lens, stolen camera finder can't find a lens, much less a old FD lens which had no data communication with a camera at all. His best hope is using a database where he manually enters model, description, and serial number.
Here are some where you can enter the info manually, I'm sure there are more.

http://photo.net/neighbor/registry/
http://www.stolen911.com/category/177/Stolen-Cameras-and-Photographic-Equipment.html

http://fepredzone.com/ (Payment Required)

privatebydesign · Oct 10, 2013

nightbreath said:
privatebydesign said:

Because of the way our eyes work yours looks way to magenta and mine looks way to yellow in the gif.

Click to expand...

My personal feeling is that you can achieve either magenta or yellow result with the left RAW file, but not the orange I have achieved with the right file. Do you want me to send you the RAW files over to play with?

No need for the RAW file, and thanks for continuing in a civil manner, too often these discussions descend into insults. I appreciate a true conversation

Anyway, here I have pushed the yellow to orange, way further than your right image, just to make a point you don't have to choose yellow or magenta, you can have orange if you want. I did this in the ACR Camera Calibration panel only, just hue and saturation on the three channels. I believe your discontent between the two capture systems could be mitigated to effectively nothing if you readopt a robust calibration inclusive workflow.

Dianoda · Oct 10, 2013

SPL said:
So, I have a Canon 600EX-RT and a Canon ST-E3-RT. I have to say these are great and have had a lot of fun getting into off camera flash. But,…I would like to expand to 2 or 3 more flashes. Does the ST-E3-RT work with any Yongnuo flashes or does anyone think this may come around in the near future,..or am I going to have to get more 600s (ouch,..$$$!)

I don't know much about the prospects of compatibility w/ future yougnuo flashes, but as far as buying more 600-EXRTs goes - if you are patient/internet savvy, the cheapest option would be to buy them refurbished from the Canon direct online store when they put refurbs on sale. I bought all of my 600's for a little less than $400 each ($373 before tax w/ free shipping) using a page monitor plug-in for chrome browser to monitor in-stock/out-of-stock status during sales (the app checks for changes in the web page every couple of minutes and I get a notification if a change is detected - so I pretty much know immediately if an item I am interested in comes back in stock or goes on sale). I'll probably regret giving away my secret, but... screw it, I have pretty much all the gear already.

surapon · Oct 10, 2013

ajfotofilmagem said:
ECRoyce said:

surapon,

something you mentioned in your initial inquiry looks like it went unmentioned so far (unless I missed someone's comment). mAh is the capacity. it is literally milli-Amp hours, mA x h = mAh. theretically, 2000mAh would run a 0.1amp draw for 20 continuous hours, or a 20milli-amp draw for 100 hours. It has nothing to do with the amount of power hitting your device, or the 'size of the pipe' (which would be voltage).

So your concern that your flash would be damaged by the higher mAh is not a valid one. Think of it as a larger gas tank. I WOULD however, be concerned with construction (which battery could split/leak components inside your flash damaging it chemically) and the reliability of the cheapo brand, and like others have said, self-discharge rate (loss of power while not in use).

Eneloops like everyone says, are good due to their low self-discharge properties. Another Low Self Discharge battery I have tried with decent success so far is Tenergy brand Centura model. They are a little cheaper to compete with Sanyo's Eneloop line and to me seem to be 'as good' comparing to the ones that I have, but of course Sanyo has the longer track record with their design.

Click to expand...

Sorry, but your logic is flawed. Yes, the capacity measured in milliampere per hour is related to the time at which the battery can supply the rated voltage of 1.2 volts. But... The actual voltage at the time of a peak current drain naturally falls. ??? I remember that alkaline batteries have actually 1.7 volts when new, but drops to 1.1 volts, at the moment of recycling flash. : On the other hand, the Ni-MH batteries has 1.45 volts, but when the flash recycling, drops to 1.2 volts. Thus, at the time of peak current drain, NI-MH batteries provide higher voltage than Alkaline batteries. 8) Now, imagine a hypothetical NI-MH battery that has truly 8000 milliamps per hour. : With such capacity, the voltage drop would be smaller. Perhaps would drop to 1.4 volts, providing flash recycling time faster than ever (4 x 1.4 volts = 5.6 volts). It turns out that the flash supports 6 volts when in standby, but provides for a natural fall at the moment of recycling. If does not happen this fall, it would cause overheating of the flash circuit which was not designed for such high voltage. Another practical example: If the flash work with nominal voltage of 6 volts, we can use lead acid batteries 6 volt and 1800 milliamps (external) without causing damage to the flash. But if we are to make thousands of shots without changing the battery, then use a lead acid battery 6 volts and 8000 milliamps... ??? And the flash recycle time will have a super-duper fast because the voltage drop will be null. : The result is that the flash circuit will be toasted because of the excess voltage not dropped at the time of recycling. :-[ Bottom line: If a device is designed to use 2000 milliamp battery safely, you should not use battery with much higher amperage than that. :-\ Of course, to obtain a secure long term use without replacing batteries is the accessory "Canon CP-E4" that transforms the correct voltage, using 8 batteries simultaneously.

Thousand Thanks, Dear Teacher, Mr.ajfotofilmagem.
Thanks for great Infor.
Have a great Day, Sir.
Surapon

Oct 10, 2013

For me my invite don´t look like an product annoncement.

But we will see. There are a lot of camera and lens prototypes out for testing.

Oct 10, 2013

There are no errors in the 5D Mark III.

All errors that people have reported and Canon don´t have fixed until today are outstanding features of the camera.

K3nt · Oct 10, 2013

True. I on the other hand use Yongnuo 622C radio triggers to get HSS off-camera. Works great and cheap too.

Lawliet · Oct 10, 2013

FunPhotons said:
Unlikely since it's just a RF transmitter.

The only RF transceiver with a back channel to date. The flashes report their state to the controller, telling you whether a hidden flash is ready. If one overheats it at least wouldn't allow the "ready"-light to come back on, probably locking all strobes.

videopublicitat spain · Oct 10, 2013

luciolepri said:
The video you uploaded is very compressed and 720p, so it's hard to judge.

As far as I'm concerned, I choose to get a 5DMKII as a second body instead of a 6D because I didn't find the 6D to be better at all, as far as video mode is concerned. HI ISO performances excluded, of course. I also found the 6D ergonomy and build quality a step back, compared to the 5DMKII, so I really wouldn't suggest this camera to shoot videos.

For me, the 6D is better than the 5D II for all.

KKCFamilyman · Oct 9, 2013

Thanks everyone. I did get a brand new 5d 3 from canon today. They sent me a center pinch cap for my 24-70 ii which was a nice bonus. I did sell enough gear to get a 5d3 2nd camera but am still on the fence since the 6d seems nice for a backup and gives some lens money but unsure since all the canon gear seems at fuul price or near. Any suggestions on who has deals?

Ryan708 · Oct 9, 2013

I liked the First one of with the model on the left and the train going by behind her alot, Neat work!(IMG_2961)

jm · Oct 9, 2013

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/indepth/photography/hands-reviews/zeiss-otus-55mm-f14-apo-distagon?BI=2466&KBID=3296

Botts · Oct 9, 2013

Skirball said:
Having prices drop from the original introductory price isn't exactly a theory, that can be supported by heaps of data. The claim here was the price it was going to hit, and it was done with a fair amount of chest thumping. I'd say it was way the hell off.

My favorite line from the whole thing:

"People who claim this pricing could never happen would have conveniently "forgotten" by then or remain mum when that day does come..."

Heh.

I was trying to be friendly and diplomatic!

vmk · Oct 9, 2013

around $1000

Hector1970 · Oct 9, 2013

Hahnel are a very good and reputable company. Their batteries are good. Ive found them amongst the best. Opteka are good too. Their wireless trigger equipment is excellent.
I'm very confident in buying their gear. It's never let me down. Their HQ is in Ireland but they are a German family firm I believe. It's a good combination. German engineering with Irish ingenuity.

vlim · Oct 9, 2013

I think this book took him something like two months to write, many of the things you buy everyday didn't require that much work. But it's really up to you to look at this way. I was just sharing something that i think could be really useful for many photographers out there, didn't want to start a polemic

TrabimanUK · Oct 9, 2013

It's for charity...

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-24458783

and people are saying $4K for a lens is a lot! ;-)

Marsu42 · Oct 9, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
Marsu42 said:

...they *might* some day come up with a affordable finger print detector that cannot be easily fooled

Click to expand...

They already have...the iPhone 5S.

That's what I was thinking about - one day after release the fingerprint sensor on the iPhone was fooled by the very same method that worked for years (text in German, but there's a video with English subtitles: http://www.heise.de/ct/artikel/Der-iPhone-Fingerabdruck-Hack-1965783.html)

Btw there is a nice Mythbusters episode about this, they try to fool a "never circumented before, ever, really" commercial sensor on a door with an even less elaborate method. And they discover that you just hold a bed sheet in front of you to beat a motion detector

Mythbusters: Holy Sheet

Explanation here: http://www.securitymagazine.com/articles/mythbusters-are-busted-1

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