You have to look at the intended market. Super zooms are not about image quality, they are about convenience. This lens will probably cost slightly more than the 18 200... The image quality will probably be about the same. It will sell well.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Tee said:

New here- pardon if this has been asked / answered before.

After some lengthy searches and comparisons, Im about to purchase a new Canon 6D; some of the packages being offered includes a 24-105mm f4 IS L lens and a 70-300mm f4-5.6 EF w/ IS. (one of the local retailers was trying to match this but was offering the tele w/out the IS)

~12 years ago, I purchased a 300D Rebel (1st gen), and with it, a 70-300mm f4-5.6 EF w/ IS lens (and another lens).

My question, then, is

1) is this the 'same' telefoto lens?
2) EF is EF? jumping to the large, full frame format, this telefoto will work?

3) if it is the same, I don't want a redundant model. Suggestions for another lens to fill out the range? My focus is wildlife and landscape along with some outdoor action (lake-based water sports).

Your replies and insight are most appreciated.
T

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Yes, its the same lens. The 70-300mm IS hasn't changed in many years. EF lenses are all full frame. The lens will actually resolve more on FF than it did on your crop camera.

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I agree. I picked up one of these for my son when I bought my 6D + 24-105L, since there was a special Canon package deal last winter that dropped the price to $200 which was too good to pass up (~$300 off). It doesn't quite compare to the 70-200L's, but it's actually not a bad lens at all on FF. See the Photozone review (http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/558-canon70300f456isff?start=1) for details. It isn't as good at 300mm as 200mm, though, so getting a 70-200 f4 and cropping may do you just as well, but if you get a great deal like I did it may suffice until you outgrow it.

First, thanks to everyone for helping me along my quest from old Leica/Film 283 flash to 5Dii/7D ETTL flash.

I ended up getting a pair of YN-568EXii flashes. Had problems with both battery doors, fixed those. There are threads on both of that.

Here's my question.

I know the differences between ETTL-II evaluative vs averaging metering, with evaluative comparing the preflash vs ambient on some of the central metering areas (not tied to focusing point) along with distance feedback, if available. Averaging... just considering the preflash over the central metering areas. That I've got down.

What I'm having a hard time with, is two things:

a. Why off camera flash, using the YN622's are seemingly the same as averaging even though the camera is set to evaluative. Its behaving like averaging for some reason. For instance - same scene, on camera, evaluative is 2/3 stops underexposed as compared to averaging, however off camera flash is the same, regardless of averaging vs evaluative.
b. Why zooming seems to show that evaluative, only when on camera, is underexposed at certain focal lengths (24-105 and 16-35ii) but is good to go at all focal lengths when used remotely with the YN622 - again, it seems that no matter what it says, you're getting averaging not evaluative when the YN622 is ues.

Any thoughts?

What I'd like to see is a lens profile for each of my lenses individually; Didn't Tom Clancy (So long, we hardly knew ye) make a passing mention of using a laser to profile a lens to improve the resultant images? I doubt it could be usefully done in-camera but I could make time on my computer for that - Folding@home can wait!

Jim

Check the AFMA again if you did before; If it changed much you might have an issue.

Jim

serendipidy said:

Owl believe that when I see it ;D

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lol ;D ;D ;D

Hi all. Finally bit the bullet and bought an x. It's just arrived and is sat in my lap as I watch tv, drink beer to celebrate and try to look through the custom functions. Different to my mk 4 I must say, chunky, handles great and very easy to look over. Top quality as expected. Anyway, I'm off to work tomorrow then it's holiday in Venice, seals, deer and Griffon Vultures. Taking the old 1ds3 to Venice but it's the bird stuff I need help with. My mk4 is set the way I like but the x? I just don't have time to practice before I'm off shooting. Any x owners got any advice on set ups for birds in flight, big birds pretty predictable but still fast and big slow deer. Any help will be very much appreciated, I honestly just don't have time to set it up. I'll compare the 1ds3, 1d4 and the x as soon as I'm back. Now, back to annoying the wife .

Hey Axilrod!!

Thank you VERY much for the compliment...I appreciate that as well as all the other comments and advice you've given me over the past year or so!!

Well, the move to premier I think....is mostly to force myself to LEARN premier. I'm also trying to teach myself:
Photoshop Extended
Illustrator
....etc
As well as AE and Premier. I figured out a sweetheart deal in that I applied for admission to a local community college that for the price of application and having my old college transcripts sent in...they'd give me a .edu email address as well as a photo student ID...all without ever having to even attempt to register for a class.

So, for about $50..I was able to use the Educational version of the Adobe CS6 Production Pro suite and save about $2K.

I don't want to go CC, so I got the CS6 suite and I'm trying to learn all the tools.
I've been watching lessons on all from CreativeLive...I have some good books and I might try the lynda stuff too.

I figure at some point I might earn some $$ from all of this (at least maybe enough to offset my "lens habit" I've developed)....that I'd be more valuable the more tools I was able to learn and try to master.

So, for quick jobs I'll use FCPX...but for now at least to learn more, I'm gonna try to force myself to do my next project on Premier.

One other thing...I just shot video for a charity Video Bridal crawl here in New Orleans.
I was in bars and other venues with low lights and since I was mobile, I wasn't carrying light. I rented a 50mm f/1.2L and took my other lenses 2.8 and faster...BUT, I still had to shoot at ISO's of 6400 and higher.

I have noise in my video...so, I'm going to buy the "Neat" video noise filter plug-in, and they make you pay for each applicaton you want it on. This stuff seems to really work, so I'm going to buy the module for Premier and give that a shot.

Anyway...I figure you can't learn too much, and this will be a chance to learn the "other" interface with multiple tracks rather than the magnetic timeline.

Lastly, I'm trying to also learn and work with Davinci Resolve...and the roundtripping with FCPX has been less than solid with my attempts...so, going to see how it works in conjunction with Resolve and Premier.

Thanks for looking and again, thanks for all the advice so far!!!

cayenne

Central Camera in downtown Chicago is very cool. Here is their site:

http://www.centralcamera.com/home.php

Kernuak said:

But how about if the exposure time is much longer? For example comparison between ISO 100 for 40 minutes and ISO 400 for 10 minutes. I haven't tried the ISO 400 option, but I do know that noise from a 30-40 minute exposure is really high and I've come across information that it's better to use a higher ISO and lower exposure time, because of the heating up of the electronics.

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As I said, with extremely long exposures, the sensor noise can be really bad. I would split it into several shots.

BTW, what exactly are you shooting at 40 minutes? For star trails, people usually stack 30 sec shots, but that is a lot of frames to stack. There is also the problem of pausing between the shots "long" enough to allow the sensor to cool down but not too long to avoid getting gaps in the trails.

Nice tool.
I have the roundflash.
You have to be close, around 1,5m; then it works fine.
And yes, its getting heavier and the camera is more tricky to hold.

it wont work directly connected to the camera but with the elcheapo ebay radio triggers it will work in manual mode

if you want cheap triggers off ebay the dslrkit ones are not bad

I have never had this problem - but then again I am not a big "burst" shooter...

Agree with GuyF - I have SanDisk Extreme Pro 32GB CF's and a SanDisk Extreme Pro 64GB SD in my slots and have NEVER missed a shot due to buffer or card problems... Can't say that for my experience with Lexar Pro's...

Also agree with Mt Spokane - I low level format my SD whenever I move the images to my computer/externals...

Remember, the SD slot on the 5DIII is NOT UHS-1 enabled - it will only write at about 20 MB/s... Your CF slot is your race horse - it will write up to 4X faster with the right card...

I love the peace of mind writing to two cards - and I knowingly give up burst rate for it... If you want to maximize your burst rate, buy a FAST CF and leave your SD slot empty...

Hope this helps!

JPAZ said:

Wow, the Canon made the bee mysteriously appear! I better go spray mine with insect repellant!


Seriously, I've toyed with a mirror lens and do appreciate what you've put up here. Seems on a bright day if what you are striving for is web images and not large prints, there could some use for these lenses.

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I bought it because it was cheap, and something I could play with. I bought a used Nikon 500mm about this time last year for $80 and adapted it to canon, and saw similar results before I sold it. You can see the doughnuts in the background.

Nikon 500mm Reflex on Canon 1D MK IV

Don't expect to see much IQ difference between equivalent camera models. Its just not going to happen.
Look instead at lens prices and availability of good used lenses
Look for features you want or will use
Look for availability of third party accessories
Look at Service times and user issues
Look at prices
Look at resale prices
Try the product out if possible to see how it fits in your hands, and check the layout of buttons and menu screens.
We are all different and we value different things differently, so get whats right for you.

neuroanatomist said:

Vern said:

I use a RRS L-bracket and two clamps to attach the Wimberly side-kick to a Gitzo monopod. IMO the advantage of a gimbal type head is the same on a monopod as a tripod - no lens flop and a lot easier to direct the lens at the target - especially for birds above your head.

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I'll have to give that a try. Since I have the RRS leveling base with clamp on my tripod (to switch between gimbal and BH-55), my RRS side gimbal already has a dovetail on the bottom, so I can just lock that into the clamp on my monopod head.

Click to expand...

That should work fine. The L-bracket creates a bit more offset than needed but the side gimbal should come out centered above the monopod (I think). I have the full RRS gimbal w the leveling base, so haven't tried that on a monopod (even I might consider that overkill). I suggested to Wimberley that they consider a right angle bracket for the side-kick for just this purpose - they 'put it on the list'.

The new CPS page went up today. The evaluation loan period is going to be 10 days, not 7 days like previously mentioned. http://www.cps.usa.canon.com/loans/loans.shtml

SPL said:

Nice gift! Very nice of your wife! Happy anniversary! Would love to get one of those cameras, have fun with it!

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Thanks SPL,

It's fun to shoot with "vintage" style camera

Rui Brito said:

MP-E 65? EF 85 1.2L? Not an expert on Nikon Lenses, but at least those two comes to mind.

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TS-E 17, the TS-E 24 is markedly better than the PC-E 24. The 50mm f1.0 and 50 f1.2 both with AF have no Nikon equivalent. Until the recent Nikon 80-400 the Canon 100-400 won a lot of people over, but even now the Nikon lens is much more expensive than the Canon.

Nikon had a distinct advantage with flashes until the 600 EX-RT came out, now the Canon system offers more.

scott said:

CR00 said:

2 bodies or as back up

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just planing - but what would be a good complementary camera for the 6D

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Another 6D - exact controls and lay outs etc.
Or
A 70D if on a smaller budget / extra reach is required. All depends on what you shoot and how you shoot.

My personal preference would be the first option.

Looks nice. How does the AF in live view works?

fxk said:

Anyone can call themselves a pro - there isn't a test or license.

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Yep, they don't audit or anything, I was just quoting the official line

fxk said:

One body is the cost of a Gold membership.

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I don't understand what you mean - it's $100/year for Gold.

Orangutan said:

candc said:

no i am not saying its cheating, what i am saying is that it is more rewarding to me to recognize and hit that decisive moment than it is to pick from a sequence

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If the human species were interested only in maximal results we wouldn't have many of our sports. Why run when you can drive? Why drive when you can fly? For many people accomplishing a goal with a specific limitation is rewarding all by itself. Consider the following: race-walking, joggling, caber-tossing, classic car rallies, bi-plane races, many forms of classical music composition, haiku poetry, etc. It even happens in photography where photographers will take their modern digital beast in the field, but limit themselves to 36 shots for the day as an exercise in careful composition and exposure (i.e. learning to take time to fully appreciate a frame before pressing the shutter release)

Short of "spray and pray," my goal is usually to get the best possible shot, but I completely respect your desire to practice the "one shot" technique when you feel so inclined. I would only suggest you experiment with other methods because everyone should taste unfamiliar food once in a while.

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Also good analysis.

I wouldn't bother with ALL-I, there is no difference in image quality and the file sizes are ridiculously huge. Yes they play back faster in an editor, but the H.264 IPB files play back just fine in FCPX or Premiere with no transcoding.

What Dave_NYC said - you need to adapt to a location every time you shoot. Most of the time you can scout the location before the day, so you will have a game plan which FL to pick. I'm in the same situation with my two bodies and the way i see it, 7D is not really the best option for any indoor events. I've used it for quite a long time (was one of the first 7D adopters) and yes, you can mange considering good lenses, flash, etc. But right now i can see a significant difference in IQ comparing to 5DIII.

In general, for now I keep (just like others suggested here) a wider end on my FF body and a longer lens on 7D. I also try to pair 7D with a prime whenever possible. Most of the time I use two lens setup for indoor ceremonies 35L+ 85/1.8. But thats mostly for indoor ceremonies. For outdoor I do the opposite - 10-22 on crop and 70-200 on FF. 7D is perfectly fine for my needs when it comes to outdoor locations. Its the indoor when I see the limitations.