Weathersealing a non-weathersealed lens / Dust Donut

ahsanford said:
hpmuc said:

Good forward, thanks! Looks like my lenses are not in the 'partial sealing' camp (besides the front element).

But I still would like a read on the viability of this concept for just dust and sand. Again, moisture isn't a concern for me.

- A

There are going to be those who swear by it, and there will be skeptics like Neuro and I.

The fact is that there is no reliable data, so if it makes you feel safe, get it. Its not likely to cause any problems other than a loss of your money.
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Why are Zeiss lenses manual?

thedman said:
mrsfotografie said:
7enderbender said:
dilbert said:
7enderbender said:
It would change the way they provide such high mechanical quality. Dare I say that for me it's really the other way round: why doesn't Canon provide any digital full frame body that works reliably as a full time manual focus camera only? Answer: very few people would be buying something like this in this day and age. But I'd still prefer it.

You don't use live view for manual focus?

No. Never. I can't stand it. If live view was gone I wouldn't know it.

+1

As a landscape shooter I use live view/MF almost exclusively. I even set my autofocus lenses to manual and use them just as I use my Zeiss. I want absolute precision. Can't just hear a beep and hope it's correct.

What's wrong with Live View? Why wouldn't you use it with the x5 & x10 zoom view? You must have immaculate eyesight if you can get focus bang on with viewfinder alone.
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Advice on low light indoor sports photo's

ykn123 says it right, I second that!

When I do indoor shootings of Judo, Aikido, Tai Chi or Dancing I often use my 7D with the EF 85 f/1.8.
I shoot RAW and do the white balance in Lightroom, works great with a grey card, worked also with a grey element near the athletes :D

Example
7D | 1/500sec | f/2.0 | EF 85 mm ISO 125

Barbara Bandel | -70kg by Ingo Kwiat, on Flickr

The nifty fifty f/1.4 does it, too - just sometimes the AF USM isn't fast enough :(

Aikido | Keiko-Dojo Niederrhein by Ingo Kwiat, on Flickr

The 24-105 f/4 works, but is not the best recommendation for indoor sports

Ole Bischof | IPPON! by Ingo Kwiat, on Flickr

Regarding high ISO... the 7D can go up to 6400 and Lightroom 5 can help to smooth even these high settings,
if a 1DX does not fit into the budget - have you thought about getting a used 7D?
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Big question sir " 50 mm. VS 55 mm."

Policar said:
surapon said:
Policar said:
It's up to you! For many reasons this lens seems to be far and away the best normal lens available for FF digital cameras (apparently exceeding Leica's expensive options), however if you need autofocus (this seems to be more of a studio lens) I would skip it.

For astophotography I can see it being amazing and the apochromatic correction means that colors are much purer in out of focus areas. If you have the money and want the best image quality I think this is a no-brainer, but if you're happy with your Sigma (I have one, too, and like it for what it is), why upgrade unless you feel you're missing something?

I find the longitudinal chromatic abberation on other fast 50mms very ugly, whereas I find the sample photos from this lens to be flawless and have a look I associate with medium and large format photography.
.

Thank you, Sir, Dear Mr. Policar
Sorry, I do not understand what you talking about " For astophotography I can see it being amazing and the apochromatic correction means that colors are much purer in out of focus areas."----I do not try to get involve of Astophotography yet, Just try to shoot the Moon and the comet( Comet Panstarrs) in past 5-6 years---Just Try.
Have a great day, Sir.
Surapon

The moon isn't the best example of astrophotography since it's so bright. For photos of stars you want to shoot wide open to minimize the time your shutter is open and most fast lenses have coma and soft corners:

http://intothenightphoto.blogspot.com/2013/02/overcoming-coma-aberration-part-2.html

50mm is a little long for astrophotography, but this could still be really great for that.

Apochromatic correction eliminates "bokeh fringing." In these photos (with the excellent 35mm f1.4 G Nikon lens) you can see that the out of focus areas take on green/magenta fringes:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/images1/35mm-f14-afs/bokeh/D3R_3745-14.jpg
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/images1/35mm-f14-afs/D7K_6803-crop-0600.jpg

This is most apparent in the second photo (white against black), but it makes all colors look cloudy and muddy.

If you look at photos taken with the Zeiss lens, they do not have this aberration:

http://diglloyd.com/articles/ZeissZ/ZeissZ-Otus-55f1_4.html

To me this is a really big deal. The 70-200mm f2.8 II IS is also near-apochromatic by most accounts and people praise it for its beautiful color rendering. Current fast 50mm lenses have lots of bokeh fringing, which I find very distracting and ugly in color.

Thank you, Sir, Dear Mr. Policar.
Wow, I have learned form you again to day.----Beautiful / New Knowledge for my future Hobby too.
Thanks again
Surapon
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Sell my 85L for these two lenses?

sdsr said:
As someone else has suggested, unless 2.8 isn't fast enough you may want to consider the 100L instead of an 85 - the Canon 85s, whatever other virtues they plainly have, suffer horribly from blueish fringing (different from the standard purple CA) wide open around pale objects that aren't quite in focus. I've never seen that (or any other visible flaw for that matter) with my 100L, whose only flaw is one all macro lenses have - it doesn't focus fast if you switch suddenly from a close subject to a distant one (or vice versa). And, thanks to its greater focal length and very short minimal focus distance, you can conjure up marvelous background blur that gives the 85L and 135L a run for their money (for all I know all this is true of the non-L 100mm macro too). Its advantage over the the Sigma 85mm lens (which is otherwise excellent - or at least the copy I rented was) is greater mechanical consistency - i.e. you will be less likely to need to return it. The 100L's advantage over all the 85mm and other 100mm lenses for Canon is that it has IS, which can be useful.

As for 35mm, I've not used the 35mm L. The 35mm IS is excellent, as is the Sigma. both of which I rented when they were new. The advantage of the former is its IS; the advantage of the latter, aside from the obvious speed factor, is its superior performance with regard to coma - which matters if you do much shooting in low light where there are small, bright points of light; this is nicely shown in the respective reviews at lenstip. (Unable to decide which one's relative advantages mattered to me more, I procrastinated until the ridiculous short-lived Adorama price reduction on the 28mm IS occurred and bought one of those instead - it's excellent too.)

yes...I agree..............
by the way...the non-L macro performs pretty similar to the L - I.S. version

my DO-ALL kit is a 14mm II, sigma 35 f1.4 (one of the best performing lenses I have owned) and the 100L because it does so much...
MAYBE the 135 f2 or maybe the 85L II ... but these are specialized and yes they are great..

but to go for a walk in Portland, Paris or Chicago... I want ultra wide (14), ultra-fast normal(35 sig) and maybe a bit of telephoto from the 100L macro... for a close up museum or flower shot
these do most of what I need....and have nearly flawless delivery

14L II has removable fringing but NO distortion, Sigma has NO ISSUES IMO, 100 macro is not as fast aperture as ...say ....85L or 135L but ...as stated here ...can get close and MAYBE derive more back-blur than the other two teles... 100L is plenty fast to focus... if you dont ask it to go from 8" to 100 feet in an instant..and back again

the kit is small...
but
if really small is wanted try 14L II, 35 I.S. and 85/100 non-L(but they have fringing wide open..)

I.S. becomes very useful on the 100mm length... with no optical issues IMO
nothing touches the 35 sigma ...that has autofocus...

I await Canon's re-attempt at a re-release ...another try...with a 35mm L II ....
of course the price will be 2-3 times the sigma....
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Is ff metering more aggressive than crop?

pensive tomato said:
Thanks for your work with Magic Lantern! This also brings to mind the silly limitations on the behavior of the Set button that I thought you tackled as well.

Yes, SET has the option to quickly set the af to the center, and it's easier to reach the points with the multicontroller. This feature is already merged into the ml 6d dev builds...

... unfortunately the "focus patterns" feature is one of the cases of broken Canon firmware, you can only select one af point at the time and not for example the three right ones (like 60d and all other 9pt) which would have been great since on the 6d they're not cross. On the other hand, crippling this could have been deliberate on Canon's part.
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x-pro1

I also have the Fuji X-E1 and XF35, XF55-200, XF18-55 and Samyang Lens, great for travel due lower weight. Now with hand luggage allowance getting less, it's becoming a more viable system for me.

For the quality, the Fuji system is not that far off my Canon equipment and for a lot less money. Future wise, I will use the Canon system for mainly action and sports and where weight isn't a restriction. Mostly my camera equipment is used for travel so my future is looking Fuji. My Fuji next lens are the XF14, XF10-24 and the XF23. Also waiting on the next Fuji X-E2 or Pro2.

I can see my future not upgrading my 5DMKlll like l did the 5D and the 5DMKll. I like the size of the 6D and also GPS, which I hope will happen in the Fuji cameras in the future.

I think when a full frame mirrorless system comes out, I think it might change a lot of peoples choices.

Just my thoughts :-\

My Nikon D600 is used for work, which in fairness earns me the money to buy the other systems, so I can't knock this camera ;D
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Can u store more than 3 user defined picture styles in 5D mk ii?

Hello all,

Can u store more than 3 user defined picture styles in 5D mk ii?
Read from Magic Lantern forum somewhere that this is not possible/dangerous for now.
Any workaround other than carrying a laptop to upload the picture style files to camera?
I suppose I can do it in post with raw capture but if I can get the effect I want in jpg, I save a lot of
post processing time :)
PS: I shoot raw+jpg all the time.
Thanks! John

I'm so sick of Canon ...

J.R. said:
Well ... I returned the 16-35 yet again (didn't get third time lucky). This was the third copy I checked and didn't like it wide open - stopping down to f/8 or so was better but I can get the 17-40 if that was my main purpose.

Maybe I need to look elsewhere ... the 17mm TSE perhaps ... this just seems to go on forever.

The TS-E 17 is a great lens. Biggest drawback is lack of AF. If you can get around that and its cost, it's a winner!
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70-200 for trip to Vegas and Grand Canyon

I was pondering whether or not to bring along my 70-200 for an upcoming trip to Vegas and the Grand Canyon via helicopter that will land at the bottom of the Canyon for roughly 30-40 minutes.

Here is my lineup:
5D Mk.3
Canon 17-40
Canon 24-105
Canon 50 1.4
85 1.8
100L
135L
Canon 70-200/F4/IS
Canon 1.4 TC

I was thinking the following for sure:
5D Mk.3
Canon 17-40
Canon 24-105

**Optional**
70-200
1.4 TC
50 or 85 prime

I have a Benro travel angel carbon tripod too but obviously trying to keep the size of the kit down for this trip.

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance :D
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My Showreel

Hey guys,

as my Timelapse showreel was well received I thought I'd share my actual showreel.

Which you can find on here: https://vimeo.com/76289417

Most shots done with a 5D mark III, a few bird close ups with the 600D.
Generally L lenses used, ranging from 16-35mm, 50mm f/1.2, 24-105mm, 100-400mm, 300mm f/4.
I often use a Glidecam, a lot of shots handheld or on tripod.

Any feedback is appreciated.

Antelope Canyon, AZ Recommendations?

willhuff.net said:
pinnaclephotography said:
......or would if the House of Representatives hadn't thrown a temper tantrum and closed the National Parks...which is a real pity...hopefully that situation will be resolved by late October/early November (best times for Zion).

Fixed that for you.

Given the amount of vitriol and ugliness going on, I hope ths thread dooes not get into that discussion, but thanks for correcting the mis-statement.

And. The photos posted are great. Cannot comment on the conditions of he road and canyon today, but a few years back had the opportunity to visit and it was amazing. Can porbably check with the Arizona DOT to get the latest about the road. I know they were rebuilding the portion that was so heavily damaged but created a "bypass" to allow traffic through.
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Development Announcement Coming? [CR1]

Don Haines said:
We know from the 70D that canon can put 40Mpixels onto an APS-C sized sensor.. all you need to do is read the two halves separately and there's your high megapixel sensor

We already know Canon can put 120MP on an APS-H sensor, which is 519mm^2.

APS-C is 332mm^2, so for the same pixel size you'd get 76MP. FF is 864mm^2, so for the same pixel size you'd get 200MP.

Question is how many EF lenses can resolve 76MP on an APS-C sensor, that is the center of the lens?
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Whats wrong with my XTi

Hi
I have noticed that on my bodies when I take the card out I get the no CF Card message, this seems to stay, ignoring the camera sleep time on occasions. I have got in the habit of a press of the AF ON button, any button that will normally wake the camera should suffice. This will clear the message and allow the camera to sleep.
I hope this might help sort out your battery drain condition, or perhaps when you take the card for post processing take the battery for a charge, that should stop the camera draining it! ;D

Cheers. Graham.
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