aj1575 said:

neuroanatomist said:

SDPhotography said:

You have to admit he is good at what he does...

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Yes, he is. But what he 'does' (as in, does for a living) is not photography, nor is it teaching photography or reviewing gear. It's running a for-profit website. Controversial statements generate website hits and ad revenue. Having people act as unwitting shills is great for KR's 'growing family'.

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I completly agree with you on this one. !

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I do not. His site is full of reviews and tips for the 'normal' photographer.

daniela said:

Much thanks for all your replies and advice!

As mentioned, I talked to the shop manager and I can return the 70D and get my money back.
The shop is ok, they would have exchanged the camera. But they do not have one anymore, as they got just two dozen of them. And Canon told me to get it repaired, what I think is not an good solution for a new camera.

I will order a new one when my money returned to me.

G
Dani

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Definitely the right decision. I would never accept a repair of a brand new camera. It's enough money that we should expect it to either work or be replaced if it doesn't.

Hope you don't have to wait too long!

A Guy I work with is into Bird Photography. Since we are all challenged by distances, he mentioned that if I was willing to go manual, that this might be an option:

http://www.swarovskioptik.com/nature/equipment-c210703

It might be a bit pricey, but if it can do decent 1700mm equivalent shots, might be worth the price.

Anyone used this sort of non-standard set-up? What are the results like.

bornshooter said:

Scott_McPhee said:

privatebydesign said:

Where are you? You are welcome to use mine.

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South Lanarkshire, just below Glasgow in Scotland.

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Hey scott i am in motherwell not far from you

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Yip - just 15 minutes down the road - you got a 300?

Cory said:

Thanks. I weighed ff vs crop and decided that I'd like to stick with the 1.6x so just got a 17-55. The results are pretty stunning especially after I turned the IS on after 2 weeks of accidentally having it off. My current lenses are all GREAT and perfect on crop-sensored cameras and replacing the collection isn't in the cards. One day, too, I'll be adding the 100-400.
Most fingers are pointing to the 70D as a good step up without being maybe more complicated than I need (although waiting for a new 7D isn't out of the question either).
Much appreciated.

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We don't exactly know what the new 7D specs will look like even if there's been a lot of speculation. We don't even have a good time frame for when it will be announced, much less available to purchase. So unless you are find waiting until the next year probably to hear what it will be, I wouldn't wait for the 7D2. Just go for the 70D if that will suit you well.

Very informative thread. Got some good ideas to consider.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

There are a number of patents from many camera companies for interchangeable sensors, but so far, the idea has been impractical simply because new technology requires additional connections and electronic speeds that were not foreseen two or three years earlier, and getting tied to out of date technology isn't something engineers want to do.

Right now, many sensors are switching to 8 channel readouts, what will be have in 3 years? 12, 14, or 16 channel, and what speeds? The motherboard and processor tie you down to todays technology pretty well. It also ties down any improvements in autofocus, video, or nr among other things.

Its not really such a good idea when you think about how much it shackles you to obsolete technology..

Its hard to believe that we will see practical interchangeable sensors unless its just for easy replacement of a damaged part.

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+ 100, Sir
Thanks for great Infor.
Yes, Where they build the Camera, They must Build in a clean room and Anti-static / control area with the clean cover all dress, and try to prevent the dust to go inside the camera bodies or Lenses. If we try to Change the Sensor in our home, Yes, Will be 1000 of the UFO. over the beautiful sky of our beautiful pictures.
Than you, Sir, Dear Mt Spokane Photography .
Have a great day, Sir.

Surapon

PS. Plus the Camera company , want us to buy/ spend the money for the new camera body with the new sensor , for pay the cost of their new building too.

I live near the falls, been there many times. Biggest problem I have these days is trying to shoot anything without getting picture full of various tablets being held up to take photos. People don't think twice about stepping in front of you and holding up their tablet to get a better photo!!

These are some Great Old Home ( 110 years +, to 150 years old Homes) in Jackson, The Small town in Rural Area.
Enjoy.
Surapon

Its a lens I have always been curious about, seems a good deal I like the 24-105mm IQ.

But I cant see it being a good travel companion its too big, heavy and conspicuous.

Although the weight difference between it and a 24-70/70/300mm combo isnt a lot, the weight is more widespread across the body as one will most likely be in a bag compared to say the 28-300mm sitting by your side all day even on a black rapid strap.

I would like to have a go with one, but for the price I would prefer to have the dedicated lenses.

Also it could be a good candidate to update, there are much better weight saving materials now and better elements but price would def shoot up and its expensive enough now lol

If there is nothing showing at f64, there will always be something shown under microscope
One rule in photography is knowing where to draw the line.
To me, it is f22 max if I really picky about dust.

You probably won't be able to find a camera spotless at f36

This is an old thread but I also have a Canon 6D and have been happily shooting video with 16GB Etreme 45/Mbps cards. Last week I bought a 32GB Extreme Pro card with 95/Mbps and paid dearly for it, but it crashes just as above 2 out of 3 times I shoot. It's very frustrating as I do a lot of interviews. This card was also almost $100 from Samy's Camera here in LA.

Do I need to take the card back? I don't even know if that's possible or if I have to send it to Sandisk.

dgatwood said:

9VIII said:

The bottom line is that USB2 at 10-20MB/s is terrible, and should generally be avoided if you care about data transfer time.

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USB2 performance should not be that slow unless your card reader is junk (or, if the reader is your camera, unless the manufacturer doesn't know how to implement USB device mode worth a darn).

The peak theoretical speed for USB2 is about 60 MB (480 megabits) per second. In practice, at least with hard drives, you usually start to run up against CPU overhead, IRQ sharing, and other performance bottlenecks before you actually approach that theoretical limit—somewhere in the mid-300 megabit range, IIRC. That said, if you're really getting only 10 MB (80 megabits) per second, there's something seriously wrong....

Are you sure you're not thinking about USB 1.1's 10 megabit limit?

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I'm pretty sure I was thinking of flash drive write speeds (http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/usb-thumb-drive-charts/Copy-Benchmark-Images-Write,2301.html), which is probably more due to slow flash memory than the interface.
You're right about read speed though, which is more what we're concerned with here, the good ones get about 35MB/s read speed. 35MB/s isn't incredible but it is a lot better. A quick look through Google shows roughly the same thing for USB2 card readers.

I recently spent 3 days shooting thousands of shots for a timelapse video with my 6D. I mainly shot in aperture mode,
And the exposures remained consistent when the lighting did. Only problem was pre-dawn shoots when the balloons were shooting their flames on and off, but that's normal, I should have shot all manual at those times.

i am just luckily enough to be working here in China...many different things to photograph

Thank you guys! I was shooting a wedding all day yesterday - will try all of your suggestions tonight - and if nothing works, I've still got 2 weeks on the repair warranty

Mick said:

I guess we all sell and buy stuff of the net but the fees on a certain site are quite a lot when you sell high end stuff. Is there any other place I can sell my 1D4 over here in the UK? Shops would trade it for very little and im no expert on selling gear.

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Could advertise on gumtree, twitter etc. Also consider http://www.ffordes.com/home I have bought from them myself in the past and would use again, I'm considering sending my old camera there if the potential buyer I have decides to back out. I emailed them a while ago with a list of equipment and a reasonably detailed description of condition to get an estimation of selling price.

They take a commission, but you agree an advertised price with them rather than whatever price it gets to on a certain auction site.

OH awesome!!! thank you!!

Mt Spokane Photography said:

I've never had a binocular that did not have a adjustable diopter for one eye. Its been a universal feature forever. Don't worry, its there.

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True. Even had it on my 50$ (or less) binoculars.

mackguyver said:

photonius said:

mackguyver said:

photonius said:

mackguyver said:

Skirball said:

mackguyver said:

I found that my 50 1.4 did this same thing a lot, so I put a high quality multi-coated filter (like Hoya or B+W) and it took care of it. It won't fix flare from the sun or really bright lights, but should work in the example you posted.

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You find you get less flare with a filter on?

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Yes, with that and some other older lens designs that were pre-digital. I know it seems backwards, but if you think though it, the reflections are coming off the sensor (not an issue with film) and reflecting back on the front element. If the filter cuts down on the (internal) reflection with a modern multi-coating, that explains it. Again, it's no good in bright light, but helps with this specific type of reflection on lower intensity lights.

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Actually, physically this makes no sense. A filter in front of the lens will not prevent light bouncing off the sensor from reflecting from the front element or any other internal element. Once the light is through the filter, nothing can prevent any internal reflections.

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I'm not an optical engineer by any means, but I believe it works because it lessens the amount of the light from bouncing off the sensor from bouncing back into the sensor, which is what's causing the ghosting. The reflection off the sensor is going to hit the foremost piece of glass and reflect back into the sensor. By putting a better coated piece of glass in the front, I think it reduces the ghosting.

That may or may not be sound logic, all I can say is that when I got my 50 1.4, I couldn't believe how badly it ghosted with night shots very similar to the OP's. I screwed a multi-coated filter on the front and the problem practically disappeared. Going back in my mind, it was a 450D, 50 f/1.4, and a Hoya HMC Super filter.

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Ok, so how is a filter (let's say it lets 95% of the light through) supposed to lessen the amount of light bouncing off the sensor? The only filter that can reduce the incoming light is a neutral density filter, but it just makes all darker if you didn't adjust exposure (which would actually reduce reflections because light intensity is less)

Regarding your 50mm f1.4 experience, the most likely explanation is that you did not do it under controlled circumstances, i.e. the shots with and without filter were not identical. You can only compare if you put it on a tripod and do with and without filter.

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It worked for me, on a tripod, shooting skyline shots of Miami the first time. I had the filter off, it ghosted. I put it on, it didn't, or didn't nearly as much. I pointed it at other light sources over the 3-4 years I had the lens with and without the filter, and every time, the filter helped suppress the ghosts.

I won't debate this any further. It worked. Period.

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If it really worked, I would be very interested to see a sample.

troutmouth said:

70d will focus better, but the 6D is full frame - about the only advantage, but its a big one.

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Is there a CR policy that the actual text has to be longer than the advertisement in the footer ?

Zv said:

I wouldn't have the confidence to rock up to a job with what outwardly looks like a P&S camera!

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Not all mirrorless cameras look like P&S cameras. Here are some comparisons from Camera Size dot com

Olympus OM-D E-M1 vs Canon 7D http://camerasize.com/compare/#482,154

Fujifilm X-Pro1 vs Canon 7D http://camerasize.com/compare/#258,154

Panasonic GH3 vs Canon 7D http://camerasize.com/compare/#381,154

Sony can build a small mirrorless camera like the 24Mp NEX-7 that is not much bigger than an EOS M, Why can't Cannon give us a Pro M about the same size as the NEX-7?
Sony NEX-7 vs Canon EOS M http://camerasize.com/compare/#33,351
A Cano Pro M (with a M-mount f/1.8 85mm) plus a Canon MFD would satisfy all my needs

I think no announcement last year but it was the time when they did begin their rebate program.

If its a good deal it will be sold in a few minutes. First see if its a scam. About 99% of the really good sounding deals are scams.

I evaluate the seller as much as I do the camera. A seller who can't tell you about the camera or avoids direct answers is hiding something. Its a fact that some cameras have intermittent issues and you can't find them in a few minutes, all you can do is to see if it had good care, no bad dings, and that the seller takes care of his things.
You cannot check the shutter count without a computer and software, so its not something easy to do when looking at a used camera. Ask about it, of course.
Good luck, after all I've said, I've never had a issue with a used camera that I bought, and I've bought dozens.

I'd pay more attention to the selection of a proper camera. DSLR video is not well suited to fast action sports where you must move the camera quickly and refocus. The only camera canon makes that will focus quickly for the type of video you are showing is the 70D, and the consensus is not fully formed for that.
Another issue is the jello effect you get when you pan the camera rapidly like you did in the sample video. Camcorder sensors are not susceptible to the jello, they use a different technology.

You might not know it, but most DSLR's are manual focus, and trying to stay in focus on a quickly moving subject is neigh impossible.

Aside from the 70D, a good camcorder is the best tool for sports.

Assuming you are getting a 70D, you might just start with the kit 18-55 STM lens. Its quite, has IS, and the 70D works well with STM lenses. Otherwise, I'd get a 17-55mm EF-S. The 24-70L is great on FF, but not wide enough for a crop body.
Also get some lighting, bright lights and a very large reflector that can light up the entire area involved in the video. You will likely need multiple units. Good lighting is expensive but your videos will look better with good lighting and a cheap lens than the other way around.