per pixel sharpness?
the D7100 has a higher resolution so of course you should see more details.

and yes the fuji shows much less color noise.
imo the 70D image shows more details at ISO 6400+
especially visible when you look at the playing cards.

but then the text is better readable from the fuji.

hat jemand irgendwelche Workshops die er uns ans Herz legen moechte?

The title of your topic made me believe to wittness the return of Ankorwat....
False alert...

jd7 said:

verysimplejason said:

My favorite normal lens would be the Canon 28mm F1.8 USM. It's not as sharp as my 50mm but very near it in terms of sharpness. It's not too wide nor too tight for a crop. I've tried the almost similar Sigma 30mm F1.4 and don't like it that much. The Canon is simply smoother and focuses faster even in low light. I've used the 17-55 and 15-85 and found that I like both. They're just too expensive for me to invest something that I'll not use in the future (6D is coming)...

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While I agree with the idea there is no "best", I also think the 28 1.8 makes a very good "normal" lens on APS-C sensor cameras, at least if you don't want to carry the bulk of the 17-55 2.8 (which I think is an excellent zoom lens). I have never tried the Sigma 30 1.4 to compare though.

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The Sigma 30 1.4 is definitely sharper and has less CA than the Canon 28mm F1.8 (probably due to CA). However, the Canon as I said is much better mechanically and AF is a lot faster. With a little bit of time in LR, you won't notice the IQ difference at all unless you really pixel peep (200%?). They cost essentially the same. I have the 28mm F1.8 and the 50mm F1.8 II combo when I want maximum IQ and lightness while bringing my 500D. Night or day, they're perfect for me.

RGF said:

If quiet is your goal and no mirror shake, try HDR with Live View

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PS you can use the lock feature on a cable release to force the camera to run through the entire HDR sequence without pushing the button a second time

For indoor sports, from figure skating to grade school basketball and volleyball, I was quite happy with my 7D and 70-200 f2.8L II. But, there were times in some gyms where lighting was a bit challenging and I often shot between ISO 2000 and 3200 to keep the shutter speed at 1/500 or better.

For figure skating, moving from a 60D to the 7D greatly improved my keeper rate because the 7D is much better at AI Servo in tracking moving skaters. On occasion, the 8 FPS is a nice benefit, but I don't rely on it as a substitute for timing the shot.

Then, I upgraded to the 5D3 and saw a great improvement in image quality at the higher ISO. With the 7D, I was always using noise reduction in post. With the 5D3, I rarely need it.

The 7D and 5D3 are similar in focusing performance. I shoot single-point expansion and do find that the 5D3 has an edge with its extra focus points. But, the in-focus keeper rate didn't improve like it did moving from the 60D to the 7D.

So, it all depends on the movement of your subjects. If AI Servo performance is a must and your 6D is having trouble tracking, then the 7D might be an improvement. I emphasize "might" because I don't know how the two compare in this regard.

If you're happy with the 6D focus performance with sports, then skip the 7D and get the 70-200 f2.8L II. The Mark II version of this lens is not only sharper, but reportedly focusses quicker than the Mark I version.

Regarding the extra reach of the 7D, it doesn't help indoors for sports. You will be using higher ISO and need to clean up the noise later. You will get cleaner images cropping in post with you 6D.

As for FPS, yes, the 8FPS of the 7D can catch shots that I would otherwise miss. But, more often than not, the first shot in the sequence is the one I want. But then, I'm not shooting professional athletes who would be faster and more challenging when timing some shots. You'll have to make the call regarding the value of this feature. Personally, the high ISO image quality trumps the higher FPS.

lion rock said:

Thanks. I hardly did stuff. The caterpillar --> pupa --> Butterfly. Me, I just depressed a button... I was the witness. Not the creator or the conceptualizer of the result of the pictures I was able to take... I feel blessed.

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Shall I say that you brought it to the world? Isn't that the purpose of photography, capture the image and show to your audience, and save for prosperity?
-r

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Yup! I am the history recorder...

mackguyver said:

Awesome photos (especially #2) and great timing!

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Thanks. Having so many pupae there was fantastic! One still to hatch. I checked. It is still in the pod.

neuroanatomist said:

I guess, since the 10x30's are free, I might as well get them, and if I like them, move up to the 10x42L...

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Got the 10x30 IS binocs, so far, I quite like them...

Anyways....

I'm hoping the 7DII has a few specific things:

1.) Cleaner RAW images at ISO 1600 and 3200
2.) 10-12 frames per second
3.) 1DX AF system with Eye Control AF
4.) WiFi
5.) Integrated grip (like the 1DX)
6.) 30+ image RAW buffer
7.) Radio e-ttl control
8.) RJ-45 ethernet port.
9.) Locking mode dial
10.) Support for multiple folders on the card to save and view files on.

That's my wish list. I doubt I'll get it all, but there is certainly plenty of room for improvement above the 7D and 70D specs.

I'm selling off my 24-105L. I don't see a market for it when it's super saturated with 24-105L's.

ajfotofilmagem said:

Apparently, the new suggested rule is in effect. It turns out that in the last days the same topics has monopolized the homepage. It took my interest to participate in the threads, after all they are always the same 10 topics on the homepage ... :-X This is the criterion of "viral" YouTube, for example. But, it seems anti-democratic logic of "more is better". :-\ For my part, I suggest the return of the traditional operation, where each topic appears on the homepage for a few minutes when you receive new messages, and goes down position to be replaced by more updated.

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After a few days seeing the same topics on the homepage finally appear new topics ... I thank the administrators Canonrumors because I had no patience to dig for the subjects that interest me in the various sections. 8) Thank you.

Thanks for fixing this.

Pi said:

DOF based on aperture is just an approximation. There is a well known Zeiss document

http://www.zeiss.com/c12567a8003b8b6f/embedtitelintern/cln_35_bokeh_en/$file/cln35_bokeh_en.pdf

about DOF and bokeh, where they explain and actually measure the loss of sharpness away from the focal plane for different lenses, see p. 23 and 35

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Looks like an interesting read, thanks for the link

Old Sarge said:

AcutancePhotography said:

Are there third party companies that sell lens hoods for lenses?

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There are but the one I bought didn't fit the lens it was designed for very well. Had to do some knife work on it and it still was on the tight side. Luckily it fit a lens I rarely use.

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Yes, there are many manufacturers of generic accessories with good price and quality almost always low. We can not risk buying it, or pay more for the original Canon lens hood. The problem is that the originals are much more expensive, but the quality is not much better. If Canon lens hood starts doing as good as Tokina and Sigma would be great. But what would the price increase? Maybe 200%.

dgatwood said:

Just not the current 28–135 non-L.

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FWIW (which isn't much, granted), about a year ago Canon patented updated designs for the 28-135 and 28-300. If/when FF bodies get down into the $1200 range, I bet we'll see an updated (non-L) 28-135 as an inexpensive kit lens (keeping the kit price under $1500), just as the current 28-135 was the kit lens for the last 'consumer FF bodies'.

Speaking for myself, I likely wouldn't be happy with the IQ of an EF non-L 24/28-xxx superzoom, and I think an L version of one would be fine optically, but not much smaller/lighter than the current 28-300 (which I don't mind carrying). I'd take a similarly-sized 24-250L over the 28-300L - that 4mm on the wide end makes a difference.

I need a good sturdy boom arm to support an Elinchrom RS600 monobloc head with 70cm softbox.
The Elinchrom PolyStand seems the obvious choice http://www.theflashcentre.com/polystand-i43.html?category_id=692 but I'm also considering the Manfrotto 024B Black Light Boom as a cheaper alternative http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-manfrotto-024b-black-light-boom/p1540584

I'll be grateful for any feedback from anyone who owns and/or has used either of these products, or suggestions as to any viable alternatives.

A lenscaot for non-wildlife lenses would be great. Not to hade it,j but rather to protect it. Or seomething based on crazy aarons thinking putty?

I like the low camera angle. The blurred foreground and background really make the riders pop out. I also like the subtle things like the spray coming off the tires and the water drops above the head of the riders. I can imagine riders 2 and 3 were getting a face full of spray.

just arrived my 70-200 f4 IS and it's amazing!
Easy to carry when traveling, sharp as hell, the best DOF i have ever seen. IS is amazing...!

LetTheRightLensIn said:

Because they have all sorts of competition coming in from all over. Video/movie guys are not fanboys and if you think people get harsh in the stills dominated forums check out what the movie types say

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Interesting to know - as I don't video I have no idea about these customers. But it makes me feel a bit more moderate because around here I'm usually one of the most critical members towards Canon corp policy

LetTheRightLensIn said:

.... some of the hugest names were already saying years ago they couldn't believe Canon was deciding to handle it this way.

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The imho most probably explanation for that was posted here some time ago from a guy who knows his way around large companies - he said that he believes the Canon execs are the conservative, quarterly shareholder value types who play it safe and milk what they have ... and that the only way to change this is to replace these people, willingly by old age or by getting fired.

Marsu42 said:

Not if the bottleneck is a single interface to both cards, which is likely given the very fast speeds of recent cf or sd cards ... that's why Toshiba recently announced the uhs-2 standard with transfer speeds of 312mb/s.

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You mean a single flash card reader controller shared between the two slots? Ick. I mean you could do it that way, but I'm pretty sure that would mean that writing the same image to both cards would cut the write speed in half.

neuroanatomist said:

I use the 600EX-RT with a Better Beamer on the RRS B91-QR with FA-QREX2 on my 600 II. I've been using the OC-E3, but I have a SnapQR cold shoe, and triggering with the ST-E3 would be a little cleaner than the coiled cord - great idea!

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Hi Neuro, I bought the Better Beamer specially for use on the 600f/4 II, Haven't actually tried it yet, but I have hopes the Better Beamer can help overcome the 200mm Zoom limitation of the 600EX-RT, the 200mm Zoom seems to work just fine when in use on the 200-400, 300 & 400, but I've tried it with the 600 & there's a lot of light fall off/spread which the better beamer should help with.

I found the ST-E3-RT Triggering via the Camera worked well for me, especially when you need to change the position of the 600/s on the Ring, I imagine that could become a bit of a Tangle using a cord to trigger.

Just an added reminder for anyone wanting to go the RRS way, keep in mind if you want to attach your 600EX-RT to the RRS extender, or any RRS piece of gear that has a dovetail fit, you need a "Snap QR Adaptor", RRS make a number for different fit outs, when I first bought my set up I had everything I needed, except this little bit of gear to actually attach the 600 so it would all work.

terminatahx said:

Uh, If Image quality and focusing performance is important to you, YES! Tamron is a value lens, nothing more.

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That's not even close to the truth.

http://www.ephotozine.com/article/tamron-sp-24-70mm-f-2-8-vc-usd-lens-review-19056

http://www.ephotozine.com/article/canon-ef-24-70mm-f-2-8l-ii-usm-lens-review-20563

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/09/canon-24-70-f2-8-ii-resolution-tests

I have yet to read a review that claimed that the optical or focusing performance of the new Canon was anything more than a minimal upgrade over the Tamron. The new Tamron sits right between the old Canon 24-70 and the new one in terms of wide open image quality. Stopped down there is no perceptible difference between the new Canon and the Tamron.

cr316892 said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

I watched the video just now, and have a couple of comments.

1. While the person marked the position of the body to the table, he did not mark the position of the lens carrier. The lens MUST be inserted in exactly the same position as it was before, or the image will be decentered. Mark the lens carrier to body!!

2. The person did not mention that you need a proper screwdriver to avoid damaging the screw heads, they look like Phillips, but they are JIS and a JIS screwdriver with magnetic tip can keep you from damaging things.

3. Use a plastic or wood tool to remove the ring on the front of the lens. Its just asking for trouble to use a metal screwdriver. A toothpick should work.

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I appreciate all of your help and suggestions.

These were more or less the same instructions from the LensRentals blog earlier this year:

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/05/a-few-easy-lens-dustings

I just did the dust clean out, and it literally took me less than five minutes.

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Yup, its easy when things go right. The biggest issue is using Phillips screwdrivers on a tough to remove screw. If the head is damaged, its big trouble. People do use Phillips, and it usually works, but a proper screwdriver is cheap, so if you plan on doing it regularly, get the right tools.

duydaniel said:

8)

Very interesting
http://kenrockwell.com/canon/comparisons/sl1-vs-5d-mk-iii/index.htm

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this is ridiculous , the 24-70MK2 is the best zoom in any mount and the 18-55IS is the worst zoom Canon ever made.
he just wants to shock people to invite more clicks to his site.