ajfotofilmagem said:

Apparently, the new suggested rule is in effect. It turns out that in the last days the same topics has monopolized the homepage. It took my interest to participate in the threads, after all they are always the same 10 topics on the homepage ... :-X This is the criterion of "viral" YouTube, for example. But, it seems anti-democratic logic of "more is better". :-\ For my part, I suggest the return of the traditional operation, where each topic appears on the homepage for a few minutes when you receive new messages, and goes down position to be replaced by more updated.

Click to expand...

After a few days seeing the same topics on the homepage finally appear new topics ... I thank the administrators Canonrumors because I had no patience to dig for the subjects that interest me in the various sections. 8) Thank you.

Thanks for fixing this.

Pi said:

DOF based on aperture is just an approximation. There is a well known Zeiss document

http://www.zeiss.com/c12567a8003b8b6f/embedtitelintern/cln_35_bokeh_en/$file/cln35_bokeh_en.pdf

about DOF and bokeh, where they explain and actually measure the loss of sharpness away from the focal plane for different lenses, see p. 23 and 35

Click to expand...

Looks like an interesting read, thanks for the link

Old Sarge said:

AcutancePhotography said:

Are there third party companies that sell lens hoods for lenses?

Click to expand...

There are but the one I bought didn't fit the lens it was designed for very well. Had to do some knife work on it and it still was on the tight side. Luckily it fit a lens I rarely use.

Click to expand...

Yes, there are many manufacturers of generic accessories with good price and quality almost always low. We can not risk buying it, or pay more for the original Canon lens hood. The problem is that the originals are much more expensive, but the quality is not much better. If Canon lens hood starts doing as good as Tokina and Sigma would be great. But what would the price increase? Maybe 200%.

dgatwood said:

Just not the current 28–135 non-L.

Click to expand...

FWIW (which isn't much, granted), about a year ago Canon patented updated designs for the 28-135 and 28-300. If/when FF bodies get down into the $1200 range, I bet we'll see an updated (non-L) 28-135 as an inexpensive kit lens (keeping the kit price under $1500), just as the current 28-135 was the kit lens for the last 'consumer FF bodies'.

Speaking for myself, I likely wouldn't be happy with the IQ of an EF non-L 24/28-xxx superzoom, and I think an L version of one would be fine optically, but not much smaller/lighter than the current 28-300 (which I don't mind carrying). I'd take a similarly-sized 24-250L over the 28-300L - that 4mm on the wide end makes a difference.

I need a good sturdy boom arm to support an Elinchrom RS600 monobloc head with 70cm softbox.
The Elinchrom PolyStand seems the obvious choice http://www.theflashcentre.com/polystand-i43.html?category_id=692 but I'm also considering the Manfrotto 024B Black Light Boom as a cheaper alternative http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-manfrotto-024b-black-light-boom/p1540584

I'll be grateful for any feedback from anyone who owns and/or has used either of these products, or suggestions as to any viable alternatives.

A lenscaot for non-wildlife lenses would be great. Not to hade it,j but rather to protect it. Or seomething based on crazy aarons thinking putty?

I like the low camera angle. The blurred foreground and background really make the riders pop out. I also like the subtle things like the spray coming off the tires and the water drops above the head of the riders. I can imagine riders 2 and 3 were getting a face full of spray.

just arrived my 70-200 f4 IS and it's amazing!
Easy to carry when traveling, sharp as hell, the best DOF i have ever seen. IS is amazing...!

LetTheRightLensIn said:

Because they have all sorts of competition coming in from all over. Video/movie guys are not fanboys and if you think people get harsh in the stills dominated forums check out what the movie types say

Click to expand...

Interesting to know - as I don't video I have no idea about these customers. But it makes me feel a bit more moderate because around here I'm usually one of the most critical members towards Canon corp policy

LetTheRightLensIn said:

.... some of the hugest names were already saying years ago they couldn't believe Canon was deciding to handle it this way.

Click to expand...

The imho most probably explanation for that was posted here some time ago from a guy who knows his way around large companies - he said that he believes the Canon execs are the conservative, quarterly shareholder value types who play it safe and milk what they have ... and that the only way to change this is to replace these people, willingly by old age or by getting fired.

Marsu42 said:

Not if the bottleneck is a single interface to both cards, which is likely given the very fast speeds of recent cf or sd cards ... that's why Toshiba recently announced the uhs-2 standard with transfer speeds of 312mb/s.

Click to expand...

You mean a single flash card reader controller shared between the two slots? Ick. I mean you could do it that way, but I'm pretty sure that would mean that writing the same image to both cards would cut the write speed in half.

neuroanatomist said:

I use the 600EX-RT with a Better Beamer on the RRS B91-QR with FA-QREX2 on my 600 II. I've been using the OC-E3, but I have a SnapQR cold shoe, and triggering with the ST-E3 would be a little cleaner than the coiled cord - great idea!

Click to expand...

Hi Neuro, I bought the Better Beamer specially for use on the 600f/4 II, Haven't actually tried it yet, but I have hopes the Better Beamer can help overcome the 200mm Zoom limitation of the 600EX-RT, the 200mm Zoom seems to work just fine when in use on the 200-400, 300 & 400, but I've tried it with the 600 & there's a lot of light fall off/spread which the better beamer should help with.

I found the ST-E3-RT Triggering via the Camera worked well for me, especially when you need to change the position of the 600/s on the Ring, I imagine that could become a bit of a Tangle using a cord to trigger.

Just an added reminder for anyone wanting to go the RRS way, keep in mind if you want to attach your 600EX-RT to the RRS extender, or any RRS piece of gear that has a dovetail fit, you need a "Snap QR Adaptor", RRS make a number for different fit outs, when I first bought my set up I had everything I needed, except this little bit of gear to actually attach the 600 so it would all work.

terminatahx said:

Uh, If Image quality and focusing performance is important to you, YES! Tamron is a value lens, nothing more.

Click to expand...

That's not even close to the truth.

http://www.ephotozine.com/article/tamron-sp-24-70mm-f-2-8-vc-usd-lens-review-19056

http://www.ephotozine.com/article/canon-ef-24-70mm-f-2-8l-ii-usm-lens-review-20563

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/09/canon-24-70-f2-8-ii-resolution-tests

I have yet to read a review that claimed that the optical or focusing performance of the new Canon was anything more than a minimal upgrade over the Tamron. The new Tamron sits right between the old Canon 24-70 and the new one in terms of wide open image quality. Stopped down there is no perceptible difference between the new Canon and the Tamron.

cr316892 said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

I watched the video just now, and have a couple of comments.

1. While the person marked the position of the body to the table, he did not mark the position of the lens carrier. The lens MUST be inserted in exactly the same position as it was before, or the image will be decentered. Mark the lens carrier to body!!

2. The person did not mention that you need a proper screwdriver to avoid damaging the screw heads, they look like Phillips, but they are JIS and a JIS screwdriver with magnetic tip can keep you from damaging things.

3. Use a plastic or wood tool to remove the ring on the front of the lens. Its just asking for trouble to use a metal screwdriver. A toothpick should work.

Click to expand...

I appreciate all of your help and suggestions.

These were more or less the same instructions from the LensRentals blog earlier this year:

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/05/a-few-easy-lens-dustings

I just did the dust clean out, and it literally took me less than five minutes.

Click to expand...

Yup, its easy when things go right. The biggest issue is using Phillips screwdrivers on a tough to remove screw. If the head is damaged, its big trouble. People do use Phillips, and it usually works, but a proper screwdriver is cheap, so if you plan on doing it regularly, get the right tools.

duydaniel said:

8)

Very interesting
http://kenrockwell.com/canon/comparisons/sl1-vs-5d-mk-iii/index.htm

Click to expand...

this is ridiculous , the 24-70MK2 is the best zoom in any mount and the 18-55IS is the worst zoom Canon ever made.
he just wants to shock people to invite more clicks to his site.

davet4 said:

My previous post was to ask about what tripod to buy, and I got a lot of advice which I am really grateful for.....thanks but just as I about to go and buy the tripod another idea has now popped into my head......hold off on the tripod and get the 100mm IS marco.... :-\...I like the idea of a good tripod because I like take pic's in low light, sunsets etc...but I also like taking pic's of bugs and things....so my dilema is what to do ...splash out on some new glass...or the tripod....decisions decisions ...I know some people might think I am lucky to be in this position but what would your choice be lens or tripod?????

Click to expand...

get a tripod, it is more important than a lens.

Caleb5995000 said:

My longest lens is a 200 2.8L version 1 [...] 70-300L with greater focal length

Click to expand...

If it's about focal length, don't get the 70-300L - the last 100mm is not that much of a difference, and usually manufacturers seem to cheat a little on the end specs of zooms - so the resulting field of view might not as much tighter from your 200mm prime as you suspect, you probably should try the 70-300L in a shop and see for yourself.

Also the 40d->70d is a *real* upgrade for a change, it's 3 generations after all, so it'll be like stone age to space age for you

What people really want is to stick that 1" sensor (from Sony RX100) into a decently small phone that can be carried easily on a belt holster, etc. Even the Nokia 1020 only has a 2/3" sensor.

Or...Give us a Sony RX1r with smartphone built in. It will be largish for a phone, but I for one would be willing to carry it around.

ME said:

If it is a "big lens" announcement, the 100-400 is what 1st popped into my mind. If it is a big "lens announcement", maybe the 14-24 or 50mm. Many canon users have been begging for these to be either replaced or created (14-24) for a good while, at least on canon rumors. Does canon read cr?

Click to expand...

Gadger said:

I'm going with in order of importance (in my opinion )

1) 12/14-24L f/2.8 I want in the future :

2) 100-400L IS f/4.5-5.6 I want (won't be a straight f4, not having just launched the 200-400 f4 x1.4)

3) 16-50L f/4 IS I want

Click to expand...

+1 : : :

If you want lenses worthy of the resolving power of the 5d, the:
- 16-35 f2.8l II
- tse 17mm f4l

Ok, I took some pictures.

Nothing special and I don't have any fancy studio equipment or a tripod.

I put an X-Rite color checker passport and a $20 bill on a towel wrapped around a box. It was illuminated with a 500w halogen worklight.

The positions of the target, camera and light did not change (until the end).

I used a 100mm L macro at f/8.

ISO's were set at 400, 1600, 3200 and 6400. I let the camera set the shutter speed.

Cameras used were a 5DII, 5DIII and 1DIV.

The camera was set up on a box and the 10 second self timer was used.

Picture style set to neutral, large RAW and Jpeg. There are 32 total images, straight out of the camera.

Not the best lighting, not the most interesting target, but it was consistent.

The 1DIV was set into portrait mode at the same distance as the 5DIII to fill the frame. Then the 1DIV was put into landscape mode and moved back until the viewfinder looked the same as the 5DIII. Lighting position with respect to the target did not change.

One thing I did notice was less moire/artifacts when zoomed into Jackson in the center of the $20 in the 1dIV images. Another is the noise is smoother.

It also looks like the 5DIII needs some focus adjustment.

I am in the process of uploading these images to my dropbox- and it will take a while with my internet connection. If anyone is interested in the images, send me a PM I can send a link.

I see no point in resizing them for upload here.

I mis-understood what you were asking.

Canon is not telling much about how the new AF works in practice. It uses many different dual pixels to determine the focus distance.

There is a patent, but it does not really tell you what you want to know either.

skycolt said:

replaced it with a 1DIV. Pretty nice update on focus and high ISO. But only when I go back the the previous album did I find how many great photos I took with a 7D. That's a very very capable camera.

Click to expand...

Interesting upgrade path, something to consider...

Weird. I looked at Canon's battery comparison page (at http://www.canon.com.au/en-AU/Personal/Support-Help/Support-News/Counterfeit-products) and both my LP-E6s (one from the original/new 5D3 box, one purchased new at B&H separately) appear to have the bold font of a counterfeit battery. Every other feature looks similar to the genuine battery however. I have had worse battery performance than other Canon DSLRs (300-500 shots per charge) so I have to wonder if somehow counterfeit batteries were snuck into the supply chain.

Bagan Belat by Sparda (AMT), on Flickr