opinion on price of used camera needed

paul13walnut5 said:
Ok, the frame rate of the T1i isn't the best out there, but if you set the cam up to take JPEGs, set AiServo focus mode, select the centre af point and track, also maybe get a faster SD card? Class 10's are dead cheap now.

You might also fare better putting the 40D money on a faster lens. Something like a used 50mm f1.4 or 85mm f1.8.

The much brighter max aperture will really speed up focusing, and make it more accurate to.

With the cam set in Ai Servo, track track burst, track track burst.

It's not always the cameras buffer that slows things down, and you'll be surprised at the speed you can get with the right settings.

I'm right on with your suggestions - I've got class 10 cards, got some faster lenses, though I will be upgrading my 70-300 zoom soon to probably a 70-200 2.8, was just looking for some faster frame rate on the cheap. The only time I have buffer issues is when shooting raw, but for the sports events I always shoot jpeg and use center focus point with AI Servo, so no buffer issues there. You can see what I have in my signature.

Thanks again for your constructive comments. I'm passing on this 40D.
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The Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM Lens is Very Sharp

Axilrod said:
bvukich said:
The F-stop is 1.8, the T-stop will probably be in the 2-2.1 neighborhood, possibly 2.2 with that many elements.

DXOMark said it's 1.8, although that is pretty unusual

Yep, this means that likely the lens's true f-stop is HIGHER than f/1.8 ( say f/1.7)and they rounded down. Most manufacturers overstate a lens's performance, Sigma is clearly not doing that.
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Review - Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II

I don't know why some of you complain about corner softness wide open. Do you have any scenario that requires sharp corners using f2.8 except astro, which is the nichest of the niche use? Or 'hand hold landscape'? If you want that, you might as well just get a P&S for the job.

And 24L II is due for an update? Oh please, just cut it.

When you shoot at f1.4, or f2.8 for that matter, you want your point of interest to be sharp and in focus, and you want your background, that includes the corner, to fade away to reinforce the attention of the topic. And how many of you puts your topic object in the corner and shoot wide open? Let say 0.0001%? And in normal usage, wide open in center / mid-frame, 24L II is the sharpest f1.4 lens I've ever used.

To me the versatility of 16-35 trunces the bulb head 14-24. The useful 35mm f2.8 setting (not many UWA offers that), the flare resistance as mentioned above, the ability to take filter are all better. Which includes putting on a UV filter and don't worry about using it in harsh conditions. I've seen so many 14-24 owners bought the lens, gets excited, then put it in storage because they don't want to make undue damage to the bulb head front element. How sad.

Even if Canon comes up with a bulb head 14-24 I'm sure I won't be interested. By switching my 16-35 to a 14-24 I will have to buy a separate 35mm lens, double dent in the wallet!
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Sell non L primes to get 24-70LII

iso79 said:
jdramirez said:
I sold my 100mm f/2.8L is macro prime last week... and I miss it.

You should have kept it! :-\ I sold all my primes under 85mm.

I'm going to get a 135mm f/2... and then I'm going to eventually sell that to get a 85mm f/1.2... so I'm not too concerned...

I used the 100mm as a portrait and just a solid indoor/outdoor sports lens. I didn't do much macro... but I liked having that as an option.

So after I get the 85mm... if I still have an itch for macro... maybe I'll pick up one...
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5D3 vs. 1DX for lower-light shoot

brett b said:
Jim Saunders said:
Thank you for all the feedback. I'm ok with a little noise; I got the photo attached tonight and it has been put through LR4 for lens profile and 30 NR. That one isn't too bad but the wiggle room for either less noise or more shutter/aperture would help.

Jim

I have no experience with the 5DIII. Among other things, I shoot live theater. I've been shooting pro bodies for a decade...typically keeping the previous body as backup to the new body. I'm currently using a 1DX with a 1DIV as backup. I've also held onto my 1DsIII because I shoot actor headshots and I wasn't sure if the IQ of the 1DX would be up to to the task (it is).
I've decided that I will purchase a 5DIII as a backup. It will be a little weird for me to shoot a normal sized camera again. It seems the AF and high ISO are similar to the 1DX and I would like a smaller body for travel.
Since acquiring the 1DX, I've settled into using 5000 ISO for live theater. I'm hoping the 5DIII will give me similar results. Here are a couple at 5000.
Nice images Brett.

Its fun to shoot live theatre, I particularly like it when they turn out the lights and have just enough light so a person can see the action. That's where the 25600 ability comes in. Of course, most of the time, ISO 3200 or even less is fine, but when the lights go down, that's where the challenge is.

I'd get a 1D X, but haven't been able to justify the difference in price to myself. I had a 1D MK IV and used it to 12800 quite nicely, but went back to the smaller body to to carpal tunnel issues in both my hands.

The 5D MK III degrades gracefully at extreme ISO settings, so even though their is noise, it doesn't increase on a steep curve as the ISO goes up.
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Canon 7D Mark II - How much will it cost?

ankorwatt said:
describe the 7dmk2 please, so we know what we are talking about and price
Faster, stronger, and enough DR to make you hang out in Nikon forums mentioning DR every time someone posts about anything.

Or to put it another way, no-one knows. Its all speculation at this point. But I'm hoping for the DR bit, if for no reason other than a bit less shadow noise in this forum.
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Fixed Lens APS-C camera - What would you buy?

Before buying the M + 22mm (and being very impressed by how accurate its focus is when you use the zoom thingy on the monitor for small objects) I thought I would never want a camera without a viewfinder and a fixed focal length (I realize it's not fixed on the M, but for me it is for now), especially one that's relatively wide. But as long as they're fairly inexpensive relative to the price of a lens by itself, it occurs to me - as it has to others - that they're a good alternative to carrying around another lens: if I have to carry another lens around, I might as well carry another camera if it's small enough and save myself the trouble of changing lenses. (If this M + 22 deal had been available when I bought the Olympus 17mm f/1.8 for my OM-D, I would have bought the M + 22 instead and saved myself $200!)

Two or three would probably suit me in addition to the M + 22 - 50mm equiv. & 70mm equiv, and maybe 24mm equiv for occasional use (more if a small longer lens were feasible). If just one, I guess 50mm equiv.
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When's the next Canon Rebate coming???

Mt Spokane Photography said:
Canon has been running nearly continuous rebates for two years. I bought a refurb 70-200mm 2.8 MK II when they had their 15% off sale which put it at just under $1700. Its perfect, and I've been pleased with it.

You have to be very quick to find it in stock and at 15% off. I waited 6 months before I snagged one.

http://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/lenses-flashes/refurbished-lenses-speedlites/ef-70-200mm-f-28l-is-ii-usm-refurbished

You can sign up with canon price watch and if you carry a smart phone with you, it should not be too hard to grab a refurb when they are available. Unfortunately there are not refurbs of the great white (300 F2.8 and up).
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What are the odds of a 55-250 STM?

paul13walnut5 said:
Health to use your 400D, I loved mine.

It's a great little camera. I got mine after I already had my 5D2 and 7D, just to use when I needed something light and portable. It really holds its own, even though it's a relatively old body by now. I replaced it a few months back with a Sony NEX-6 and finally put the 400D (and the 55-250) up for sale last week. They're both in the hands of happy new owners now.
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EOS M Stock & Shipping Update

linus said:
Adorama canceled my order for the $299 EOS M and 22mm lens (which was placed in early July and apparently couldn't be fulfilled).

I feel very lucky I ordered from B&H and not Adorama when EOS-M/22mm was already backordered. It looks like B&H decided to bite the bullet and honor the backorders with EOS-M/22mm/90EX kit (currently on sale for $399 at B&H) instead of cancelling them.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=16074.0
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Cropping photos on EOS SL1

I think that most users on the forum would not even consider using the camera to crop a photo. DPP comes with your camera, its a better tool for cropping. Many use Adobe Lightroom which will easily crop your image to a desired format such as 4 X6, or 5 X 7, for example. You can set custom sizes as well.

Some cameras allow you to set a different format size before you capture the image, and then the image is cropped to that size when opened in DPP (Canon editing software)

I also believe you can crop in the print menu, and the image will be cropped when you print directly from the camera. Not very useful unless you must print directly from the camera as part of your work flow.
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Still no news about a Canon shift in sensor fabrication?

I can't find anything from ChipWorks that doesn't cost a hefty penny. I did find this article that determined the DIGIC 4 was a 65nm part:

http://techon.nikkeibp.co.jp/english/NEWS_EN/20090218/165866/

Additionally, the DIGIC 3, a very old part at this point, was manufactured on a 130nm process:

http://techon.nikkeibp.co.jp/english/NEWS_EN/20090218/165867/

Canon has been using far smaller and more efficient manufacturing processes for their DIGIC chips for quite some time. The 500nm process is just an oddball thing that has apparently permanently attached itself to Canon's in-house CIS products. Aside from some assumptions about it being less costly and still effective (from a "consumers are still quite happy to buy their products" standpoint), I don't think anyone really knows why they are still using such an inefficient manufacturing process.

I would be willing to bet DIGIC 5 and 6 are manufactured on at least a 32nm process. I am not sure if they have moved to 22nm...that is fairly cutting edge at the moment, and extremely costly, so I am a bit doubtful. I don't suspect we'll see anything at 22nm or 14nm in any Canon CMOS device for quite some time.
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DSLR vs Mirrorless for timelapse.

Komodor said:
These days eos m price is going deeper. İf you living in use eos m price is almost 350 us dollars i think its great opportunity.
Other hand is Eos 1100D this camera is relly cheap. And gives you great images same as 600-550-650-60D series...
I will try to buy 1100d and battery life is better than the eos m....

The challenge is right now there's no port for an intervalometer on the EOS-M, so you either need a phone/tablet/laptop to connect via USB to control it, or wait for Magic Lantern to be ported up to the v2.0.2 firmware. That seems like it'll happen in a couple of weeks, ans 1% (looks like the primary port guy) has gotten real busy and will pick back up work on it when he returns.
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i need a new tripod, any recommendations? please help.

Daniel Flather said:
Ever pinch your finger in a Manfrotto flip lock? Extra points if you've done it in -25°c temperatures!!1!

One of my older Manfrotto tripods not only had the vicious flip locks, but the edges of the fliplock had this very sharp plastic flashing. Crikey, they could not have made it more dangerious unless they put metal teeth on it.

Not keeping your finger out of the way is a mistake you make ONCE with some of the older Manfrottos. Yikes that hurt!

My newer one still has the flip locks but the edges are at least more rounded.
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