New Canon VIXIA Mini Compact Personal Camcorder Offers a Unique Feature Set Inspiring Shooters to Be

Re: New Canon VIXIA Mini Compact Personal Camcorder Offers a Unique Feature Set Inspiring Shooters t

paul13walnut5 said:
Khufu said:
Looks awesome - There aren't really any decent low-light, small sensor recordersout there, outside of Canon's HS compact cameras and rival equivalents, but, despite not appearing to offer external mic inputs, the audio capabilities of this little guy look very promising!
A couple of these things could really compliment multi-camera, one-man production operations... There are times when smaller sensors are much more preferable, the naive elite often forget this ;)

It's not the size of it rather than where you put it.

Don't know about the elite bit. I've seen some of the work on offer.

Where you put the sensor? I'm not sure I follow...

However for both my videographical and stereographic endeavours I choose to use smaller sensors to increase Depth of Field whilst being able to push for wider apertures and faster shutter speedd without hammering the gain/ISO too much. Stereoscopic imagery using shallow DoF, a la Toy Story 3, seems pathetic to me... It's meant to b e 3D, let eyes explore ;)
Speaking of which, a couple of these would make a great 3D rig!
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Lightroom 5 Maps shows offline - worked previously

Maps module is coming up "Offline" - my other internet access/applications are working fine, my download speed is 85 mbps, upload is running normally at 10 mbps - running on mac mini with Mountain Lion. Anyone have any experience fixing this or have suggestions ? I know I have gps data on the files, but when I click from coordinates or activate the Maps module, it shows offline ?

Thanks for any ideas.
Tony M

Review - Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II

I switched from crop (10-22 canon) to FF ... w/16-35 II and saw a fair bit of improvement....
loved this lens on the 1DIII ...

I finally got the 14L II which has a lot less distortion full-wide ... but a lot more fringing / CA ...
(mostly correctable)

but I COULD NOT sell the 16-35 II...just too useful...mine is clean and sharp

I find the 16-35 and a 100L macro make a nice walk-around pair...so capable
(I sometimes bring the 14L and sig 35 with the 100L or 135L as an alternative setup)

but
the review was nicely done ...not a techy review..
but I must say some very nice shooting examples...
really showing what the lens can do...within a short report


the 24-105 is a nice lens and meets most needs...as a one lens kit
but 24mm ...never seems to be quite wide enough....

so .. 16-35 is ....a good lens to have for FF shooters
it really is the way to go for FF wide - IMO

just my thoughts ...thanks for a good look at it


I find this site pretty useful.....
TOM
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Maybe buying outside the UK is ethical after all...

distant.star said:
.
Nothing personal, but you're a chump if you buy into the "support your local sellers" propaganda.

Multinational corporations use global strategies to keep their costs as low as possible. They don't give a damn what the country is or where jobs may be lost. They will go anywhere and do anything they can get by with to keep their costs low so they can maximize return to shareholders. However, they don't want you, the consumer, to do the same thing. If you decide to go to another country to get a better price, suddenly you're being "unethical" or not supporting your country or some such nonsense.

I hate walmart and their predatory practices. There was a time when I wouldn't shop there because of that. I thought I was opposing the oppressors of local small business, etc. All I was doing was stupidly giving my money away. This is a society built on a foundation of unbridled competitive capitalism. No one is giving me money, and if the corporations are going to do everything they can to make money, I'm going to be equally ruthless in keeping the money I have to work at getting. walmart and their ilk are simply doing capitalism better than anyone. I want to do as good a job at not giving my money away.

+1000 and Quote of the day!
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Another crappy question about 5D mk2 iso performance...

As per previous comment - "you earn money off photography, bought a 5D2 for back up and have NOT tested it yet?"

So, that one off my chest, I'll come back to a constructive comment.

The only thing that the 5D2 has ever suffered from is poor AF feature set.
ISO was up there just behind the D3(s) and 1D4 until the 1Dx & 5D3 turned up.

Until that point, the 5D2 was more than accepted as a wedding togs camera of choice.
Mine always followed me to work and I had no qualms about shooting at ISO 6400. I agree, it's not 1DX in final image output, but then nor is it in the same price band...

Go and try the 5D2 out and get some test shots to see what you can get - and remember, it is not a requirement for every shot to be absolutely noise/ grain free.

Some times, a picture can even be improved with a touch of grain/ noise. I would post some sample images - but some one has beaten me to it. ;)
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Avoiding "blown out" reds, how to?

privatebydesign said:
Neuro has given the practical steps to take, another, obviously, is to shoot RAW, there is often some headway in the RAW file above the histogram that is generated from the preview jpeg that is affected by the picture style choices in camera, even if you are only saving to RAW on your card.

When shooting flowers, a regular source of severe red problems, it really helps to use an X-Rite Color Passport and make some camera profiles, it is very easy to do, especially if you have Lightroom or Photoshop, and will dramatically improve your colour renditions.

Thanks for the tips.

I have to upgrade Photoshop to be able to use it with my camera, or go on the new cloud based system. I haven't taken the time to delve into Lightroom yet- I suppose it is time to do so.
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Super fast exposure time - BBC News

neuroanatomist said:
comsense said:
neuroanatomist said:
kennephoto said:
Pretty sure you can use any light, since its quite literally capturing a photo of light. You just adjust the exposure to compensate for the amount of light like we already do.

Right, so at 1 billionth of the current max shutter speed of 1/8000 s, to 'just adjust the exposure to compensate for the amount of light like we already do,' you'd need to go 36 stops higher than ISO 100. Know any cameras that can set ISO 6,871,947,673,600? ::)
Actually you both are wrong. You cant use any light. You need femtosecond pulsed laser source to illuminate the scene.

Ok, but I was being facetious. :)

FWIW, many years ago I used femtosecond laser time-resolved resonance Raman spectroscopy to study reaction intermediates of visual pigments (rhodopsin, etc.). Nd:YAG flashlamps, beamlines running across massive air tables decorated with mirrors and dichroics, fun times. I currently use a femtosecond Ti:sapphire laser (pumped with a frequency-doubled Nd:YVO4 laser) in fluorescent imaging applications.
I could see your humor; just wanted to make it geeky accurate with hand holdable Ti:sapphire ;D :'( ;D
Good to know you are spectroscopist and have used it; you can visualize very well what I mean.
Also, how many LP6 batteries would it take?
The around the corner image reconstruction from this group is pretty cool. Laser tech is developing so fast and people are already working on solid state femtosecond pulse lasers. If high pulse power is not required, its possible to have hand holdable version in near future.
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MotoCross Video Canon 7D - Canon 24-105L

Lop the 30s self promotion off the start.

Do faster cuts in time with the beat, especially the strong boom boom boom boom.

More action.

Jumps. Falls.

The kitting up is too long, I feel it building to maybe your son getting out there on the track and ripping it big time.

Anti-climatic.

However...

Good use of craning and crabbing.

Nice colour gradeing, primarys stand out, mud looks flat.

Nice light detailing relief on grip details of gloves etc.

You can handle a camera, I just felt this wasn't really telling a story.
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5d mkiii, grain in low-light - Am I just asking for too much?

jd,

In your situation I would start with these settings.

One 580 on camera as master (group A) with the big rouge, one 580 in assistants hand in group B zoomed to 24mm. Camera in M, flash in ETTL.

Set the camera to 1/100, f4, iso 200. Set flash to A:B 1:4, this puts group B at two stops brighter than group A and FEC at -1. Get your assistant in a position to create rim light, that is at an angle further away than your daughter and pointing at her but out of frame to your left or right.

Take a shot. If the subject is too bright adjust FEC down or visa versa, if the background is too bright raise shutter speed or again visa versa. If the rim is too bright in relation to the main adjust the A:B ratio, with Canon this means 1:1 is equal, A:B 1:2 is one part of light to A and two parts to B, B is twice as bright as A. The ETTL is taking care of different subject distances.

This should give you a good starting point and the right way to adjust to where you want.
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High humidity destination: gear precautions

First of all, thanks a lot for all the suggestions, I am a bit overprotective of my gear but I realise that I have to get that sorted if I want to fully enjoy costa rica photographically.

@neuro: thanks for the link, I've not read it yet but sure will :)
@jura: I have thought to get a rain cover for my camerabag but never realised that it won't be enough for real bad weather, I will look into some drybags
@t.linn: I've seen that shutter hat but don't think I'll bring a tripod most of the time so don't think I can use that. If it really rains I won't take photos :)

The only place in costa rica I am afraid for my gear is monteverde (cloud forest), but I guess that's the place I am preparing for the most :).

Taking the photos is secondary for this trip but I hope to get enough material to practice my landscape photography a bit, too much empty walls at home :). I almost never upload any photo's anymore but I hope to post some good shots when I get back.
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Buy 50mm f1.2L now or wait for the II?

Cannon Man said:
My experience was completely opposite to yours?? Do you own a copy?? What i found was that the reviews are generally positive but in the real world it performs really bad! It back focuses, the sharpness is CRAP at all apertures and it has a weird glow/softness that i can't stand.

If i had a lot of money i would buy every existing copy of the 50 1.2 and blow them to pieces with dynamite and send the video to Canon asking to make a real world L series 50mm.

My experience was completely opposite to yours?? Do you own a Ford Fiesta?? What i found was that the reviews are generally positive but in the real world it performs really bad! It has poor acceleration, the horsepower is CRAP at all RPM and it has a weird glow/softness in the headlights that i can't stand.

If i had a lot of money i would buy every existing copy of the Ford Fiesta and blow them to pieces with dynamite and send the video to Ford asking to make a real world sports car.
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Selling used gear UK

bought plenty from ffordes. Never the cheapest but I can vouch that they don't buy in rubbish, and therefore don't sell you rubbish. They sold me an ex-demo fig rig, which had some missing parts and they really went above and beyond to get it into working order for me. I'm occassionally up their neck of the woods and always make a point of stopping in, it's a slick wee operation.
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