Posts

Skirball · Jul 31, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
Skirball said:

For those that use it, is your ISO set to 1/3 or full stops?

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It doesn't matter, Auto ISO will use 1/3-stop settings. The full stop option applies only to manually selecting an ISO. I do have that set to full stops, to make changing ISO faster.

Interesting, didn't know that. Thanks.

Quasimodo · Jul 31, 2013

nicke said:
Canon Announces VIXIA Mini Compact Personal Camcorder
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/about_canon/newsroom?pageKeyCode=pressreldetail&docId=0901e0248096ae71

About time to stop the sales of GoPro

mrsfotografie · Jul 31, 2013

luciolepri said:
New lenses have the "SubWavelength" coating, so I guess the "Super Spectra" coating was the old one and it's most likely the same on the MK I and MK II. So, I'm probably wrong thinking that the MK I suffers more from flares or maybe it has something to do with the fact that I used the MK II on a film era EOS 5...

There you go...

luciolepri said:
Anyway, this 50/1,8 MK I is a good lens, considering its price. It has a much better "feel" than the MK II and an actual focus ring. I'd say it's worth to pay for an used one as much as you pay for a new MK II, expecially if you want to put it on a rig and use a FF. What's more, you can always resell it for as much as you paid it... I saw some of this lenses sold on eBay for 150 €!

+1. This little gem lives up to its cult status.

Jul 30, 2013

Mine for the 1D X. Reminds me that I need to set this up on my EOS M.

Format card: I swap out the card in slot 1 after almost every shoot, so I prefer easy access to re-format.

Battery info: Good to know charge remaining in more detail than the battery icon.

External Speedlite control: A bit easier than changing settings on the ST-E3-RT; with three 600EX-RT flashes, the three groups are sufficient for my needs most of the time.

Selectable AF point: I usually have this set this to only cross-type points for selection speed and focus accuracy, but with an f/5.6 lens (70-300L, 100-400L, or 600II + 1.4xIII), I often want to be able to select points away from the center columns.

Save/load cam settings on card: I have different groups of C# settings, e.g. people, sports, birds, etc. They're saved to each of several CF cards that I keep in various camera bags, and I load the set that's needed for my planned shoot.

Restrict shooting modes: In some of my settings groups, C1 is for tripod use (MLU, timer, etc.), while C2 and C3 are for non-tripod use. I disable C1 when not needed, so the M.Fn button can more quickly cycle through the settings (it goes from C2 to C3 to which ever of Av/Tv/M was last used, so it's one button press from C2 to C3 and two button presses back to C2).

I do have the Start from My Menu option enabled.

PhotographAdventure · Jul 30, 2013

Thanks for the other options Mt Spokane, I was not aware of those. gphoto works, but takes some time to setup. I suppose Magic Lantern might be the easiest? I have yet to try it on my 5d iii.

Marsu42 · Jul 30, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
Vello Compact Shoe Stand
Vello Universal Accessory Shoe Mount

Thanks! I already suspected you have tried about every piece of photography equipment ever invented, and after a trip to the surprisingly clueless sales people in my local photography shop today I have to say I value your help more than ever!

btnphotography · Jul 30, 2013

luciolepri said:
Why did you use LR instead of Photoshop Camera Raw? Is there any advantage?

Just personal preference. I'm a lot more familiar with Lightroom.

Mt Spokane Photography · Jul 30, 2013

This is very common, there was even a major news article about it a few months ago. It happens across all products.

Some sellers hire SEO specialists to fill the web searches with positive articles that come up when you do a search for something like (seller)scam. They are able to push complaints a few pages down this way.

Mt Spokane Photography · Jul 30, 2013

RadioPath said:
tron said:

RadioPath said:

neuroanatomist said:

caruser said:

It appears to be artificial product segmentation.

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Agreed. Worth noting that on all Canon bodies, evaluative metering is weighted toward the selected AF point.

The alternative on non-1-series bodies is to spot meter then use AE Lock and recompose.

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That's what I do now, not always that convenient. Any chance this can be changed in the future by ml or such, like spot metering was added to the 400d?

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It will have to be supported in hardware in the first place. Does it? We do not know...

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Makes sense. Are there Canon cameras that got it later?

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Cameras made and designed by different manufacturers are ... well different. There tend to be a lot of questions that indicate people think they should be somehow identical.

That's not going to happen. Pick a camera that has the features you need most. Its like buying a car, its always a compromise.

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I get that and I'm very happy with my camera. This doesn't seem to be a question of principle in design like dslr vs mirror less or sth like that if other companies put it in. Will have to wait I guess

There are patents, but it is more likely a matter of design choices as to which features to include when you design the AF system and related firmware.

tron · Jul 30, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
So, you are smart enough to compensate for any type of flair in your photos.

flair \ˈfler\ noun : stylishness and originality

com·pen·sate \ˈkäm-pən-ˌsāt\ intransitive verb : to offset an error, defect, or undesired effect

So, you're saying that flair, meaning a distinctive elegance or style in your shooting, is an error, defect, or undesired effect, but you're smart enough to be able to offset that flair by making your photos lack style and interest. Now I understand what you meant. Thanks for clarifying.

it was fortunate that by the time I read this I had already finished my coffee so the keyboard remained intact ;D

paolotaverna · Jul 30, 2013

for me to move
1- A lot better dynamic range at least 2 or 3 stops (light years away from Nikon). And good performance(no noise!! at low isos

2- Continue improving focusing speed and accuracy (transferred from Nikon and canon as still lots to do!!!!)

3- Include native stuff like interval shooting, time lapse,...just the basic and simple things really!

Something that would never happen...sensor statbilzation?

jasonyork · Jul 30, 2013

Re: Ends this Weekend! Dodge & Burn T-Shirts & Canon Rumors Toy Drive

I recently order this T-shirt online. Pretty nice Collection.

Tailored shirts

Kerry B · Jul 30, 2013

For me both the new extenders are better than the Mkii versions, especially the x2 which shows a considerable improvement on the old ones. I am not sure that you will see a huge increase in image performance unless you use one of the new fluoride coated lenses. I have the 300f2.8 mkii and using extenders is now a non brainer.

Forget about lab reports, in real world shooting using extenders on zoom lenses is never as good as when used on a fixed prime lens.

Granted there is only a small difference in image quality between the Mk2 and Mk3 extenders but any improvement is better than nothing. Knowing what I now know I would buy the new Mk111 extender in preference to the Mk11 when used with the new prime fluoride coated lenses.

I can only go by my own experiences and say that the 300mm lens with the new x2 extender when used with a Canon 5dmkiii is better than using a bare 300 on a Canon 7D. Just goes to show what this combo can produce.

can0nfan2379 · Jul 29, 2013

Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this gimbal?

http://www.promediagear.com/Katana-Gimbal-Head_p_8.html

Cheers,

Ryan

privatebydesign · Jul 29, 2013

docholliday said:
1. That's not a 1Ds I'm talking about - it's in reference to PLURAL 1D cameras

2. Ever rebuilt a leaf shutter? From the sounds of it, not. When you've rebuilt a few dozen leaf shutters, then we'll talk. Try rebuilding a few Prontor Hasselblad lens shutters from a CF or newer. And then, give a few LF Copal #3's a working.

3. Yup, a leaf shutter opens from the center and closes to the center - EXPOSING THE FRAME EQUALLY at high speed. Whereas, a FP would form a slit because the second curtain is already moving before the first curtain is completely open. Congratulations, you pass a basic physics lesson.

4. Get some real lights - we'll talk when you start to use Broncolor and have some really high speed flash with ultra short durations that can keep up with high FPS. The pulsing of HS sync reduces your distance, hence coverage and for motion, it isn't consistent. Therefore, firing ONE burst of light at a subject will freeze ONE frame of the motion. On top of it all, you would actually be able to get some light > 50ft.

You can keep arguing your (lack of) point. Those of us out here who actually get out and use our equipment will just keep on going using our (to you obviously useless) leaf shutters in daylight with great results, just like the example above.

BTW, let's see you HS sync a H5D Hasselblad if it had a FP shutter. Good luck. Your sync speed would be something like 1/30s. The larger the sensor/film, the longer it takes to get the shutter curtains moving. So, yes, there is a reason for LS in modern application.

Anyways, have fun with your theories and spewing of internet-obtained info. The rest of us will now go shoot some actual pics with our gear...

1: If you meant 1D's then it might have helped if you had written that, you didn't however, you wrote 1Ds, that is another camera altogether. I am supposed to guess when you make errors?

2: No, I never built a rocket or a helicopter either, but I can tell you exactly how they work.

3: Not according to this link, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shutter_%28photography%29 read the bit under diaphragm shutter " Effectively the shutter acts as an additional aperture, and may, for example, cause vignetting or increase depth of field, undesirable if shallow focus is being used creatively."

4: Only at low power settings, which has been my point, you know, one of the several you just don't get. Turn your top of the range Broncolor A4S 3200 heads down to 3Ws and you get 1/8,000 pulse, still slower than a Profoto at 1/12,000 @ 4.7 WS, and they are both slower, though more powerful, than an Einstein at 1/13,000 sec at 2.7WS. OH, AND YET AGAIN, THIS THREAD IS NOT ABOUT HSS, IT IS ABOUT syncing at high speeds, NOT CANON"S PROPRIETARY HIGH SPEED SYNC MODE.

Here is a picture taken by a leaf shutter camera, a five bladed shutter with the lens wide open at high speed. I think this suitably demonstrates another one of my points.

jdramirez · Jul 29, 2013

It sucks when things are too good to be true.

I saw a Lotus once for something like $12000... and I was thinking... why would you sell a $60000 car for the price of a cheap kia... And of course the answer is... you don't.

lee · Jul 29, 2013

5D mark3 is an excellent camera

LetTheRightLensIn · Jul 29, 2013

You could export 16bit per channel TIFF sRGB (very few little video software is color-managed so pretty much sRGB plus gamma 2.2 is the way to go for video unless you are doing something special for a very select and particular audience; and saving as 8bits per channel doesn't give you much room to adjust anything in FCP so using 16bit out might help). Not that sRGB's tone response is NOT gamma 2.2 so you will want to do a step where you convert to custom gamut (based off of sRGB only you chose gamma 2.2). Otherwise, and I mean maybe FCP actually could handle it some MAC stuff is more deeply color-managed, you'll probably get a tone shift compared to what you edited in LR and what you see in FCP or at least to what FCP outputs unless it knows how to convert from sRGB TRC to Gamma 2.2.

wsgroves · Jul 29, 2013

Thanks for the kind words all. Appreciated!
@Mt. Thanks a lot =o
@Andy. Those are awesome and very sharp.
@Jason. Yea I cropped them for my site which uses 1080p pix so its hard to crop 16:9.

Drizzt321 · Jul 29, 2013

If they were exposed years ago and only now being developed, you might get some really interesting stuff given they probably have degraded a good bit now.

Unless you want to start shooting film and scanning it, I'd avoid buying a scanner and scanning them in. It can be tedious, and it takes some time to start learning how to do it right.

Erik X · Jul 29, 2013

The "Comparometer" at Imaging-Resources is very nice, you can compare sample images from two cameras side by side.. Unfortunately no 70D images yet

http://www.imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP/COMPS01.HTM
Review 100D:
http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/canon-sl1/canon-sl1A.HTM
erik

sanj · Jul 29, 2013

Sporgon said:
sanj said:

Spokane: I am making notes here and reading up stuff. 5 days before I leave I will make my own .pdf and print it out. I have download various different manuals. Great tips...

Distant Star: Yes, I am bit conscious of my Indian accent. It is not over the top, I have travelled the world and interacted with foreign crew members but still the fear of not sounding perfect to the Brit, Americans etc. I will be on the watch out for the 'moments'.

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There is absolutely no reason to be concerned about speaking English with an Indian accent ! Us Brits are totally used to that ! If your speech is as your writing then it's probably better than mine. Honestly, a non issue.