Radiating said:

I'm personally not too crazy about a 14-24mm f/2.8 lens. I would much much rather Canon release a further updated 16-35mm f/2.8 III, specifically based on this insane lens patent:

16-35mm f/2.8 IS Pro Lens.

http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2013-01-06

f/2.8 3 ED elements 5 aspherical ones, and sharpness that rivals the 14-24mm wide open, AND image stabilization!

Internal focusing, low vignette.

I really would much rather have greater flexibility and greater focal range than an ultra wide angle that only does ultra wide, and worse than this proposed lens at that.

Anyone else feel the same way?

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Mostly I share your arguments except these about the lens design - I am not interested in numbers of special lens elements but the result. But: aspherical surfaces help to correct aberrations with ONE LENS ELEMENT and avoid large numbers of elements - vital for ultra wides which have light sources in the frame often to increase contrast and supress flares.

A 16-35 has - with its 35mm focal length some universal character - as you said. I am someone who thinks of 100 mm as standard focal length (in terms of FF) so 35mm is a strong wide angle lens for me, but still usable for a broad range of subjects and situations.

I think an improved close focus capability of 1:4@35mm would be very interesting ... and good IQ from center to corners in terms of contrast, good color reproduction and percepted sharpness.

neuroanatomist said:

Budget?

Dedicated space (permanent setup) or ad hoc (set up / tear down as needed)? If the former, look at wall-mounted background roll paper, ceiling mounts for monolights, etc. If the latter, a portable backdrop setup. In both cases, light stands, reflectors, flashes (or monolights), soft boxes, etc.

Maybe build a home studio cyclorama?

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Uh, you for got the NSFW tag... :-[

CarlTN said:

I like all of these, other than the first bridge shot. Hoping you shot some of the trees looking upwards.

As for the color, it's subtle in its saturation, but pretty natural looking. I've not been to that park yet, and only visited CA once so far. I did visit Muir Woods, but it was getting fairly late and I just had a cheap camera back then.

What resolution and bit depth do you scan these at? And when you edit in LR, are you editing a TIFF, DNG, JPG, or what?

What's your opinion of the Pentax 6x7? I need to sell a couple of bodies and some lenses used by a family member.

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Yea, that first bridge shot (the one across it) is kinda iffy. I thought the composition might work at the time, but didn't. I also think it was the last frame on the roll, so that's another reason why I went ahead and took it. I do have some with better tree photos that I took with my 5d3 and 17-40 (super-wide really came in handy!). I keep forgetting to upload to G+, but I have them here on Facebook if you want.

I'm mostly happy with the Ektar 100 I shot, although I Provia would probably be a bit better for landscapes if I want them in color. I'd like to visit Muir Woods, but obviously the two places are a good distance apart and I just had a couple of days.

Scanned these at 3200dpi, multi-exposure with VueScan software. Saved to TIFF, output to 1200px long edge JPG.

I haven't shot with the Pentax 6x7, this is the Mamiya RB67 6x7. I really like the format, although I think I'd like 6x9 format better if I shot more landscapes. As it is 6x7 has enough extra length along one edge to differentiate it's look from a 6x6 format, but still keeps the frame reasonably sized. I don't know much about the Pentax 6x7, so can't really help you there, but if you've got any Mamiya RB67 lenses/accessories, I might be interested. Shoot me a PM.

Re: New PowerShots, the A3500 IS, A2600, A1400 & Elph 130 IS

Hi I like PowerShot A2600 , it's the best LCD screen .


PowerShot A2600 key features:

16.0 Megapixels
28mm wide, 5x zoom lens; 10x ZoomPlus
7.5 cm (3.0″) LCD
Slim body with metal exterior
HD movies (720p) with movie button
Smart Auto plus Help button
Digital IS
Face Detection, Live View Control
Eco mode
Fun and creative effects

That is some very nice color into the blue spectrum, great shot!

I too hope you are able to recover your files!

nice. I wonder how they will compare with against the Pixel Kings
ive just gone through the manual and the site and made a quick little video on these.

Enjoy
http://youtu.be/jpo6s4knddM

I end up getting the 430ex II.
The reason why I did not take 270ex ii is for off camera, last time I check no applicable wireless trigger for our 6D.
and optical trigger will not be effective for 270ex, be sensor of 270ex is in front, how am I suppose to trigger it outdoor if I get 90ex.

I recently read YN-622c now support 6D.
Too late now.
Anyway I am also happy with 430ex ii, but still too big for small occasion,
Wish 270ex can be master.

My guess is that the SamBowRok Lenses have some special interior "mount" where the Canon/Nikon/Sony/... mount is screwed in. As the nikon mount has a longer flange distance, the F->EF adapter is a pipe with some dents at the right place.
There seems to be no obvious problem with your solution...

great shots I can see at this

I actually stepped right into the Dutch trap

Dust is in the air. Lenses lenses that extend while zooming or focusing pull air into the lens. As long as they pull air into the lens, you need a filter to catch the dust. A shroud does little if anything, since it does not filter dust. You could seal them air tight, but then, you could not zoom or focus.
Perhaps if you added a air filter, it would help, but you don't want to force the lens to pull air in from the rear, dust in the rear is a serious issue, it means nothing in the front.

http://www.canonwatch.com/

From readers, we have to provide information about the new Canon products next.

• New product next Canon seems to be a EOS 70D.
• And Kit with EF-S18-55mm IS STM, Kit with EF-S18-135mm IS STM is prepared lens kit (because it is information from overseas ※, might be different from the kit in Japan).
• Battery Grip BG-E14 is prepared.


This is the information from the person who has received to provide correct information several times in the past. New product next to the Canon it seems expensive can become and related products EOS 70D.

For the presentation time of 70D, there was a rumor a variety so far, seems to be the story of the destination so apparently. In addition, the new interchangeable lens at the same time as 70D may or may not appear, it is unclear at the moment.

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get the 17-40 for landscapes. The wide angle is crazy on FF. Very nice.

The 16-35 f/2.8 USM II lens has truly horrible hot spots. I'm ordering a Sig 15mm diagonal fisheye for uwa [supposed to be OK for IR] just because of that.

Hi,

thank you for your post - that's absolute correct - never glue a piece of anything onto an adapter, it may fall into the camera and short circuit it.

No - what I did is something different. I glued the switch-lever to the upper end of it's possible way and fixed it in the upper position.

And after doing that, my adapters worked peferctly well, identical to the behaviour, when applied a little pice of paper under the switch to push it up. BUT - it was no more possible to mount an EF-Lens - there must be a mechanical problem to do this - with a little bit more power you can mount a EF-Lens and turn it into its lock-position, but the lever of the switch is released from it's fixed position. Why? And what mechanism does it?

Joerg

I think a lot of photographers get obsessed by their image sharpness, investing in expensive camera bodies and high end L lenses only to then look at shots at 100%+ and "see" softness.

A lack of sharpness can be down to many other factors other than AFMA - shutter speed, subject movement, ISO noise, out of focus, etc. can all impact on image sharpness.

I would say when I get an unsharp image it's usually down to my fault for not getting everything correct when I am shooting. My focusing is off or my shutter speed hasn't been fast enough to freeze any movement.

I would expect on a expensive body like the 5D3 that you should be able to put virtually any L glass onto it and get sharp results with no AFMA - unless the body or lens is faulty.

It was a worthwhile excercise for me to buy FoCal and calibrate my lenses as it has told me that my lenses are "Okay" quality wise as they only required slight AFMA and I now have an easy method for re-calibrating anc checking in the future.

FoCal does make it easy, especially as I have never done any AFMA before and I managed to calibrate all my lenses in just over an hour at first attempt.

There's very few lenses which can take a 2x TC, wide open and still get very usable results. My 400mm f2.8 L IS is certainly one of them, my 70-200 f2.8 L IS II is another...which is amazing considering it's a zoomer. It's a fantastic lens...just a bit big and heavy.

meenanm said:

TWI by Dustin Abbott said:

Big question - other than the focus being perhaps a hair off, how fast and, most importantly, how accurate do you feel the focus is?

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Focus is fast. Not quite as fast as the Canon 400 f2.8 II. But its pretty fast. Fast enough for sports. As to the accuracy, not ready to put a stamp on it yet due to the back focus. I had some misses. Not an exceptional number of misses for a softball game. Some that surprised me were the longer shots. For instance shooting an outfielder with center focus, I caught the fence more often than I thought I would.

Update: I just spent some time tweaking the focus with the doc. I reset the 1Dx micro back to 0. I eventually worked my way up to a -15 setting on over 100'+. At that setting it is sharp! I then started working on the 120, 150 and 200 mm settings. I did not have time to put on the 5DIII and test it with the updates. I'll do a full review soon.

Suggestion, if you buy this lens, get the dock. Not sure if my situation is typical, but without it, I'd be calling Sigma or considering returning it.
-Mike

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I used to have the previous model (OS) and mine was certainly sharp at 300mm f2.8...if yours isn't, it's either missing focus or it's out of adjustment. One of the nice things with this lens is that it's wide open sharpness is excellent. My copy's AF seemed a bit hit and miss, or slightly erratic.

Great article. Seems recovering lsy/stolen equipment is a royal PIA so best to keep it safe

definatly want to see what this lens can do

ive got the 568ex and it works a dream. I got it hooked up to my 550D and ive taken around 1000+ photos with it and it hasnt skipped a beat.

Interesting and timely thread for me as I am debating which body is next. I have 1DsMk3 and 5DMk3 bodies. My work has a mix of needs, but no sports or birds, wildlife. Events, yes, architecture, real estate, hospitalty, portraits. I like to use lights. So I have a vision of two of each, so when I go to anything I can put two of the same bodies on me so the control features are the same during that session. I pick the kind of body the assignment calls for. I know Canon might throw a monkey wrench into the works by tempting me later this year with some new body, but that's the working plan.

Good to hear others' ideas/suggestions about the contribution and capabilities of older tech.

Yes, I am always aware of 1DsMk3's ISO limits but the other stuff is sweet. Got the 1Ds in late February so feel I am still getting to know what it can and can't do. I love the solidity and its shutter sound. It just feels like a real camera. But to be sober about the realities of "gear" this 1d may have a slightly flaky USB circuit board. So multiple bodies are a must. Best to have two of each in case one fails.

Ekychoi said:

I have all three lenses - 24-105mm, 24-70mm II, 24mm 1.4 II. The series II are similar but 24mm prime seems to me to be sharper.

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thanks for the info... much appreciated... think i'm going to go for the 24-70 anyway... I will keep the 24-105 for those times i want the range without changing lenses!

Hannes said:

even my cheapo yongnou does give off a AF pattern that works well, I can't imagine everything is right with your camera. Try doing a factory reset on the camera.

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Thanks for the response, it made me think for possible camera settings I've disabled.
Indeed I remember and have encountered familiar setting before,
and disable it on my 6D, thinking that 6D has a built in AF-Assist light and don't want to use it.

Dylan777 said:

I guess...not many people interested :'(

I still have hope for CR review

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Just curious, but what would you like to know about the lens that you cannot read in the other reviews (such as TDP's which I linked to earlier)?

It is the best 400mm f/2.8 in the world, and has numerous benefits over version i.