200-400 f4 and the "new" 100-400 zoom

neuroanatomist said:
What matters is the aperture at the long end of the zoom. The 100-400 is 400/5.6, meaning a 71mm diameter front element, whereas the 200-400 is 400/4, meaning a 100mm diameter front element - 41% larger linear measure, meaning double the area (and larger volume, too). Bigger elements, a lot longer (and more costly) to grow the fluorite crystals, more robust engineering to hold the larger, heavier, glass, etc.

Double the surface and probably close to triple in volume/weight.

Price / lb (I know stupid measurement, but ..) is very similar for all the great whites and new non-specialized lens. Go figure - real or simply an artifact?
Upvote 0

Sigma Announces 18-35 f/1.8 DC HSM Art for APS-C

Now forget the boring stuff you guys go on and on about for weeks now and back to what matters:

BH Photo just mailed me that the Lens is now available for pre-order and its listed with just $799 which sounds almost too good to be true! :D
Oh and they claim availability by July 31st.

Also Sigma Poland had an MSPR online which seems to be gone again, being 3290 Zloty (=~779 EUR / ~1040 USD)

-edit-

Review by SLRGear:
http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=1609
Upvote 0

Geotagging - best method in LR

Maxaperture said:
ookkerpak said:
Have a look at this: http://www.geotagphotos.net

Yes, it's not the same as having a dedicated GPS-device for your camera, but it's actually quite fast and easy to use. And the battery consumption can be controlled via adjusting the "refresh-rate" of your coordinates.

I use this software, and I must say, it's superb. Start the log recording, set it to tag anywhere from every two minutes upwards, and stop at the end of your shoot. Then just mail the log from within the application to your PC/Mac, and import into Lightroom. It's flawless, and so simple, I love it.
Also, surprisingly, I use it on my iPhone 4, and even a 5 hour log, used only 25% of the battery, which is pretty much the usual battery life for a 3 year old iPhone.

Thanks!!
Upvote 0

LensRentals.com Tests the EF 200-400 f/4L IS 1.4x

Stone said:
The 200-400 is a nice lens no doubt, but for that kind of money, I'll continue saving my pennies for the 400 2.8. With my 1.4 tc, I'll still be a stop faster. The 200-400 is, I'm sure a great lens, but I don't quite see the value per dollar, if it was ~5-7K, I would have been among the 1st to order one....

Without the 1.4, perhaps under $9K. Nikon's is just under $7K but they were to re-introduce the lens it would be closer to $10K. Just look at the Nikon's new 800 at $17,900 ::)
Upvote 0

BG-E7 problems.

I have had nothing but problems with removeable battery grips, starting with the 20D and up to the 5s. Most times, it was oxidation on the contacts, other times, it was just odd. That was with both Canon and 3rd party grips.

Hence, why I got rid of all bodies that weren't 1-series, no more grip problems! I only have one "gripped" body left - 1VHs and it's been fine, oddly enough!
Upvote 0

cheap lowlight 30-35mm for APS-C

sootzzs said:
preppyak said:
That said, the difference between f/1.4 and f/1.8 is 2/3 stops, so, it's a noticeable difference, but, I haven't had issues shooting at f/1.8 indoors at all. If you're in a place where f/1.8 and ISO 1600 don't cut it, you either need a flash or to get out of that cave.

I think either the 28mm f/1.8 or the new Sigma 30mm are your best options. Do you have a kit lens you can set to 30mm to see if that focal length works for you?
I've read some reviews on the Canon 28 1.8. It seems that most complaints are about the softness at 1.8-2.8. I don't want to buy a 450$ lens and use it at f2.8. I have good enough 28 vintages (MF) which shoot great at 2.8.
I would say most fo the 'softness' complaints are corners on FF. Since you have an APS-C camera, you do not need to worry as much about corner performance.

The Canon 28mm f/1.8 is about on par with the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC on an 18MP camera wide open, and falls slightly behind by f/2.8:
Wide Open: TDP Comparison
f/2: TDP Comparison
f/2.8: TDP Comparison

The Canon 35mm f/2 is slightly better than the 28mm f/1.8 wide open and at f/2.8:
Wide Open: TDP Comparison
f/2.8: TDP Comparison

Also, the manual focus primes you are talking about will be more a pain to focus than any of the AF lenses we have discussed, and will likely result in more OOF pictures. Sharpness isn't everything, accuracy should be considered as well. The sharpest lens in the world will produce awful results if the subject is not in focus, and it is even more true with faster apertures.
Upvote 0

720P or 1080p? which gives better resolution output?

Thankie! Very informative! :)

LetTheRightLensIn said:
brai said:
hi, i just bought an EOS 600D which according to Canon friends does well with video. i'd like to know the real difference between a 720p and 1080p output via Adobe Premiere for editing?

the video is planned for a student classroom viewing on a wide 40-inch plasma tv. i like to create a clear 10-minute documentary.

please advise. thanks! :)

1920x1080 IF the TV handles it, some 40" plasma sets are likely only 1280x720 though. See what the sets specs are. Maybe it is full 1080 but it very well might be 720. I know a lot of makers had been pumping out the sub 46" sets mostly as lower end models and many only had 1280x720 pixels on them.

Even though ATSC's TrueHD 1080 is 1080i not 1080p many of the sets can actually handle signals as much as 1920x1080p60 so while TV broadcasts are limited to 1920x1080i60 if you just hook a computer up to the set to play back the video you might be able to get 1920x1080p60. As I said many of the sub 46" sets were made cheaply though and are not as capable of various things though.

Even for 1080i, if you just compare 720p to 1080i channels, despite all of the talk of lower motion resolution for 1080i, to most people the 1080i channels generally end up looking noticeably sharper overall. Then again LCD have such bad motion handling that might be a fair test. Plasma handles motion better so maybe on plasma or CRT sets it becomes a tougher call depending upon the footage (I'd still think that most footage has enough static stuff going on that 1080i would look sharper overall unless you footage is all major motion non-stop).
Upvote 0

Incapable of posting to the adorama thread money still not returned

EOBeav said:
My take-away: Next time I've got $27kUSD burning a hole in my pocket. I will drive to [insert name of favorite large volume retailer here] and pick it up myself.

Same for me.... If I was buying $27,000 worth of gear from a place close by, I'd want to try everything out before I paid for it.... It's just the next state! It's not like up here in Canada where I can get in my car and drive 2000 kilometers on the Trans-Canada Highway and still be in the same province...
Upvote 0

Review: Canon 35 f/1.4L vs Sigma 35 f/1.4 DG HSM

I returned my first copy of sigma, got the 35L, returned it, and then went back to sigma.

I have to agree with a lot of what you said in the review. The canon's construction does feel more robust. I definitely felt more comfortable with it than the sigma. However I personally found the level of CA of the Canon to be excessive below f2.8.

Most reviews have concluded that the sigma 35 is the winner when it comes to sharpness and value. What no one can prove yet is reliability and longevity.

Until 35L II is released and its price lowered significantly, sigma would my choice for now.
Upvote 0

Filter

Forum statistics

Threads
37,438
Messages
973,532
Members
24,803
Latest member
Robi Naitsirhc

Gallery statistics

Categories
1
Albums
29
Uploaded media
372
Embedded media
1
Comments
25
Disk usage
1 GB