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KyleSTL · Jun 13, 2013

sootzzs said:
preppyak said:

That said, the difference between f/1.4 and f/1.8 is 2/3 stops, so, it's a noticeable difference, but, I haven't had issues shooting at f/1.8 indoors at all. If you're in a place where f/1.8 and ISO 1600 don't cut it, you either need a flash or to get out of that cave.

I think either the 28mm f/1.8 or the new Sigma 30mm are your best options. Do you have a kit lens you can set to 30mm to see if that focal length works for you?

Click to expand...

I've read some reviews on the Canon 28 1.8. It seems that most complaints are about the softness at 1.8-2.8. I don't want to buy a 450$ lens and use it at f2.8. I have good enough 28 vintages (MF) which shoot great at 2.8.

I would say most fo the 'softness' complaints are corners on FF. Since you have an APS-C camera, you do not need to worry as much about corner performance.

The Canon 28mm f/1.8 is about on par with the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC on an 18MP camera wide open, and falls slightly behind by f/2.8:
Wide Open: TDP Comparison
f/2: TDP Comparison
f/2.8: TDP Comparison

The Canon 35mm f/2 is slightly better than the 28mm f/1.8 wide open and at f/2.8:
Wide Open: TDP Comparison
f/2.8: TDP Comparison

Also, the manual focus primes you are talking about will be more a pain to focus than any of the AF lenses we have discussed, and will likely result in more OOF pictures. Sharpness isn't everything, accuracy should be considered as well. The sharpest lens in the world will produce awful results if the subject is not in focus, and it is even more true with faster apertures.

brai · Jun 13, 2013

Thankie! Very informative!

LetTheRightLensIn said:
brai said:

hi, i just bought an EOS 600D which according to Canon friends does well with video. i'd like to know the real difference between a 720p and 1080p output via Adobe Premiere for editing?

the video is planned for a student classroom viewing on a wide 40-inch plasma tv. i like to create a clear 10-minute documentary.

please advise. thanks!

Click to expand...

1920x1080 IF the TV handles it, some 40" plasma sets are likely only 1280x720 though. See what the sets specs are. Maybe it is full 1080 but it very well might be 720. I know a lot of makers had been pumping out the sub 46" sets mostly as lower end models and many only had 1280x720 pixels on them.

Even though ATSC's TrueHD 1080 is 1080i not 1080p many of the sets can actually handle signals as much as 1920x1080p60 so while TV broadcasts are limited to 1920x1080i60 if you just hook a computer up to the set to play back the video you might be able to get 1920x1080p60. As I said many of the sub 46" sets were made cheaply though and are not as capable of various things though.

Even for 1080i, if you just compare 720p to 1080i channels, despite all of the talk of lower motion resolution for 1080i, to most people the 1080i channels generally end up looking noticeably sharper overall. Then again LCD have such bad motion handling that might be a fair test. Plasma handles motion better so maybe on plasma or CRT sets it becomes a tougher call depending upon the footage (I'd still think that most footage has enough static stuff going on that 1080i would look sharper overall unless you footage is all major motion non-stop).

jdramirez · Jun 13, 2013

I was seriously considering a sigma 35mm because I felt my 50 was too close on a crop and not very sharp wide open. then I went fullframe and now that same 35 would be like a 22mm on my crop... and that is too wide.

so now I want a fifty, but none of the Canon options are sharp wide open.

so maybe an 85 f1.2 is in my future... it is hard to tell.

candyman · Jun 13, 2013

Please check http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=7030.0

And read the thread of the review by Dustin

unfocused · Jun 12, 2013

I would conclude that after 1,011 days in the top 100, the 60D still holds the number 7 and number 12 (with lens) slots on Amazon's best selling DSLRs list. Only the Rebels rank higher among Canon products. And, BTW, Canon has 12 of the top 20 DSLRs.

Don Haines · Jun 12, 2013

EOBeav said:
My take-away: Next time I've got $27kUSD burning a hole in my pocket. I will drive to [insert name of favorite large volume retailer here] and pick it up myself.

Same for me.... If I was buying $27,000 worth of gear from a place close by, I'd want to try everything out before I paid for it.... It's just the next state! It's not like up here in Canada where I can get in my car and drive 2000 kilometers on the Trans-Canada Highway and still be in the same province...

Harry Muff · Jun 12, 2013

In Photoshop, you can use Image Stacking and use the Median method.

northbyten · Jun 12, 2013

FF with Rebel AF

not bad.

Chris Burch · Jun 12, 2013

It's a different registration process than the CPS site. However, I've been registered at both and still get nothing for firmware updates and product notices.

sunnyVan · Jun 12, 2013

I returned my first copy of sigma, got the 35L, returned it, and then went back to sigma.

I have to agree with a lot of what you said in the review. The canon's construction does feel more robust. I definitely felt more comfortable with it than the sigma. However I personally found the level of CA of the Canon to be excessive below f2.8.

Most reviews have concluded that the sigma 35 is the winner when it comes to sharpness and value. What no one can prove yet is reliability and longevity.

Until 35L II is released and its price lowered significantly, sigma would my choice for now.

Hannes · Jun 12, 2013

To me it seems the 700D wasn't so much to release a new camera but rather the new kit lens which looks on paper at least to be better than the old one.

Jun 12, 2013

Which brings me back ro my whole point re: differences, and specifically form. And precisely why a £10k video camera might be better for video than a £600 dslr.

Rienzphotoz · Jun 12, 2013

Dantana said:
My experience has been that it varies from lens to lens. I'm not sure you can make a blanket statement like that and have it pan out.

+1

jimjamesjimmy · Jun 11, 2013

the problem of wirless is the lag time, theres no way you could adjust focus and press the shutter button on the ipad nad have it correlate to when you want to fire the shot like if you had your finger on the button, ive tried with my 6d.

Pi · Jun 11, 2013

I have insurance with State Farm, not connected to my house insurance, but I am not a pro.

frumrk · Jun 11, 2013

I did mention on the other post about PPA. They also list a place where you can get liability for I believe a little over $300... maybe a little more. I did some searching myself for Liability and couldn't find it for less than $500... even through my own Mortgage company. I have yet to purchase Liability... but will do so before my first wedding. Let us know if you find anything reasonable.

bitm2007 · Jun 11, 2013

gferdinandsen, I expect that numerous landscape and studio photographers could do without the high spec AF and video. So how about a split in the range, one with all the gadgets for events and nature photographers etc and a cheaper priced version for the landscape and studio photographers.

Jun 11, 2013

Hi, I use two cards, each for RAW on Auto Switch. I have never shot in JPEG with this body ever.

frumrk · Jun 11, 2013

Have you looked at PPA.com (Professional Photographers of America). In the US I believe that give you up to $15,000.00 of equipment coverage with your membership... plus an Indemnification benefit (If someone tries to sue you because they don't like your pictures or your camera/memory card dies... etc). This is not the same as liability. Of course the yearly membership runs a little over $300, however there are a bunch of other benefits also (i.e. free online training, monthly magazine, Online community/resources... etc). Personally I think it's a good deal.

Good Luck!

J.R. · Jun 11, 2013

Normalnorm said:
J.R. said:

neuroanatomist said:

Tender Loving Care.

Also, no front filter threads on the TS-E 17L.

IQ is very good with the 1.4x - check TDP's ISO 12233 crops.

Click to expand...

Ok .

No filter threads is a bummer though. Any workarounds?

Click to expand...

I use this from Fotodiox. Beautifully made and works ....wonders. Shown here with a circular polarizer.

Awesome ... thanks for the help!

verysimplejason · Jun 10, 2013

That lens would be awesome! On the other hand, for limited budget, I'd take a 17-40L, 70-300 and a 50mm F1.4.

maxianos · Jun 10, 2013

Easy one, I have a 40D and I just bought a 6D. The ISO capabilities is just fantastic! Paired with the 24-105mm and you get the best camera/lens for the price currently on the market.

And I must say I'm not disapointed at all with the outer focus points of the 6D, even in low light, they often take part of the action!

The only downside is I get an oldy computer and it starts to have some problems with the bigger RAW file of the 6D, but almost every new camera would have this problem...

Jun 10, 2013

sunnyVan said:
Get used to using center point and then recompose. I personally think it's faster than manually selecting the outer points. I never let the camera choose AF points for me, but it's just my preference. I upgraded from 60D to 6D. Cannot be happier.

Yup! I was already doing this on my 1000D, but with 6D...amazing !

Mantadude · Jun 10, 2013

Had a PM asking if I used Magic Lantern. Yes I do. I mainly use it for the focus peaking. As Macro is very hard to focus and the peaking is tremendously helpful.

xps · Jun 10, 2013

As I asked the forum some weeks ago, I am looking for an small body for high altitude hiking. Some of you told me to buy non Canon products. But I was in doubt ....

So I looked at the 100D.
But when I tried the body with my 12-24 4.0 Tokina in my local shop, the AF was very slow and moving forward and backward, hunting for sharpness. So i took just indoor pics thath did not look very impressive.
The preference of this body for me is image quality.
Does anybody own this Camera and can tell me, how good the IQ is?
Should I stay with Canon or should I switch to an Lumix DMC-GH3 or an Fuji X-E1?

By the way: In my opninion the IQ of the 600D is better then the 700D, as we checked in our local foto-club...
The 700D just seems to be an replacement with very little improvements. Changing the name clears the bad image of the 650D with the grip problems.

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