mirekti said:

I don't really understand these gels, bags. I mean, if one put them in the bag that is not airtight and it's humid outside of the bag, silica bag will collect as much humidity it can and than you end up in a humid environment again, right?

For me it only makes sense to use it in airtight boxes or zipped bags, correct me if I'm wrong.

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True. There's not a lot of air movement into and out of a closed camera bag, though, so it will take a while to saturate.

Personally, I use desiccant packs - but only with the gear stored in Storm cases (which are airtight).

jonathan7007 said:

Canon suggested I try using the AF-Focus button and that's interesting work-around, but I would try to assign the "M-Fn" button to that task, because it's near the shutter and it uses the index finger. Faster reaction than jamming my thumb up by my cheekbone to find that AF-Focus button among the three that are there.

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Depending on the body, the AF-ON button is a slightly different size or separated more from the other two. Since you mention M.Fn button I assume you've got a 5DIII. AF + Metering start cannot be mapped to the M.Fn button, only to the AF-ON or AE Lock buttons (or the shutter half press, of course), or to the AF Stop button if you're using a supertele lens.

But back-button AF is probably the best solution if you want to focus-recompose. Once you start using it, it becomes automatic, and the only time it's an issue is when you hand your camera to someone else (but the 5DIII has the green square mode, which will cancel out back-button AF).

dr croubie said:

RLPhoto said:

Its not the camera but the Fleshy, breathing Device behind it is what counts.

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CameraSatan standing over your shoulder?

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Do you mean Nikon? ;D

I don't know. I really don't see anything interesting there. It's yet another small sensor camera. I don't care how pretty it is and how fast it's AF is or whatever.

Oh, just wanted to add that while you might at times feel awkward as "that photographer guy" (and if you are using off-camera flash, you're guaranteed to stand out from the shutterbugs), but then you can grow into becoming "that guy who takes awesome photos" with people begging you to do it - it's all up to you!

A lot of people are suggesting to go with the 5d3 as it is more "familiar"... let me tell ya... I got my 5d3, a day later did a pro model shoot (a friend so not a paid gig) and I had to still take about 30 min during the shoot to fumble around the menu system to figure something out... I think i was trying to get expansion iso's or something like that... needless to say the camera menu has changed and the AF compared to the 40D is such a different beast... It WILL 100% guaranteed be a different beast than the 40D AND D800 for that matter... If the only reason is familiarity, the learning curve would be so different i dont think it would matter either way. That being said, if you study the user manual the day before and fumble around with it... If you learn the system, I think the 5d3 could seriously be a better option, but it could be partially biased.. I've shot with many different cameras and systems and brands... My keeper rate has never been higher than it has been with the 5d3, but i'm sure the same can be said of shooters with the D800... Good luck...

Freelancer said:

RLPhoto said:

The 5D3 is over-priced. That why I bought it off of evil bay for 3000$. ;D

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you still payed to much.. there are ~2699$ (depending on the dollar course) deals now in my country.

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Well, 3000$ around two weeks after Launch. Plus, I needed to replace my dying 5Dc already and I still made the right choice for when I needed it.

I will buy another 5D3 body to replace my 7D soon when that adorama fire sale comes back. ;D

Is it a good idea for your prospective partner?

Can you keep up with them?

Partnerships are two way deals. You need to think about them as well.

Octavian said:

Ok I managed to get a hold of the manual during lunch and pages 48 and 172 mentioning Bulb modes and the top display so hopefully the damn thing shows the Exposure time elapsed on the top panel!
Ill take a closer look this evening : fingers crossed!
Nick.

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And page 172 it is

Feel free to continue laughing with your Nikon fellow ;D

Protection filters are a controversy. Some love, some hate. I tend not to use them unless in harsh circumstances. The hood does a pretty good job of protecting the lens as well.

If you walk around outside a lot, a decent Circular Polarizer can act as both a protective, and functional filter. I got a 77mm Marumi for I think like $70 from amazon. Great reviews and a lot cheaper than B&W and Hoya.

-Brian

I would also add if you are going to use the onboard flash from the 60D dont be afraid of adjusting the Exposure Compensation settings. Otherwise the flash can really blow out shots and make them not feel as natural.

Heres a quick FYI link to get you started.
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/flash-exposure-compensation-options-on-a-canon-eos.html

thanks for the info! i did not realize that the LCD on the mk III would shut off if its hdmi were actively being used...

Maybe ML will figure out a way to turn off that system preset in the mkIII so an external monitor is not completely necesary when filming with an external device... only time will tell.

I have got a similar setup 7D + 24-105L and was quite pleased with the Canon 10-22mm.
I am planning on going FF hence decided to sale the 10-22mm and got myself a Sigma 12-24mm II.
http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/676-sigma1224f4556iiff
I have been quite pleased with it so far. A little slower than Canon 10-22mm but it has not been an issue and the fact it is a FF lens means I will be able to use it on both cropped and FF bodies..

Canon rumors forum: Shark officially jumped....

R1-7D said:

Stephen Melvin said:

R1-7D said:

Thank you again for the response!

So am I understanding you correctly too in that each camera will be calibrated differently, so to speak, and some 5DII's will have more shims than others depending on how they are manufactured?

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Pretty much. Things get even more complicated when you have a 100% screen, like the Mk III. Lots of hand calibration.

The dust you saw was probably on the bottom of the focusing screen in the first place, btw.

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Thanks!

I feel so much better now. I can go out and use my camera and finally enjoy it after all this useless tinkering!


One last question, though: Is there any particular symptom that will show to make you want to add or remove an extra shim?

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If you manually focus, and when you are certain the image is sharply focused, but the image is not in focus, that indicates a problem. Once its properly calibrated, if it goes out, something is wrong and it needs to go to Canon, they do not go out unless something has broken.
Normally, a change in shims is only required when a different screen is installed, and its a slightly diferent thickness. This seldom happens unless you were to install a 5D screen in a 5D MK II, for example, and then they normally come with a shim.

I almost feel as if questions like this are invitations for me to play my Yongnuo fanboy record one more time. ;D

Yongnuo YN-622C transceivers are perfect for you. They preserve all Canon wireless flash functions (both E-TTL II and manual), effectively giving your 580EX II flashes the same functionality as 600EX-RT units.

I sometimes wonder if their bargain price ($90/pair) leads people to assume there's something wrong with them. There really isn't. They do everything and, from my experience with four of them, they do it all flawlessly.

Edit: the link below is a user-written manual which is more readable than the factory instructions.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B77OmmGIg0gMSkJHX3RkdDJlNE0/edit?pli=1

traveller said:

Canon Rumors said:

I’ve also heard through the grapevine that Canon USA wasn’t all too happy with the purported Photoshop’d EOS-3 with a 46.1mp sensor articles that popped up not too long ago. That in itself is quite interesting, as why would they care about something that isn’t real?

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Possibly because they're marketing machine is trying to convince the user base that 20MP class cameras are enough for everyone's needs?

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That's interesting! If true they will now have to work really hard to improve their sensor manufacturing processes ;D Of course this also means that Big Megapixel lovers will have to be patient, ... very patient :

Mr Simpleton said:

What we heard in the grapewine is that Canon surely do know how to design very high quality and high megapixel FF sensors. But apparently lack the fab to produce them... As building one or two new lines capable to mass produce FF sensors with high MP is such a big investment it will show in business related press and so far no one has spotted any indication that Canon has started to invest in such lines.

So it seems Canon are staying with the old process for a wee bit longer than we want But I sure hope I'm wrong!

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It would make commercial sense for Canon to use a new fab with its smaller sensors, as the yields are higher. Canon has probably chosen the last possible moment to still release full frame sensors based on an older process - the current crop of full frame bodies could have a life of up to 4 years, assuming past technology life cycles can be relied on as a guide (not always a good one).

That means that, assuming Canon launches APS-C (and possibly also compact) sensors based on a new process next year, it has up to 3 years from there to get the production costs using a newer process down to a level where a full-frame sensor can be produced cost effectively.

All speculation, but it seems to indicate that the next 12 months will reveal some interesting pointers to where Canon's sensor production may head. It will be very interesting to see an analysis of the next APS-C sensor that Canon puts onto the market.

Neutral said:

Neutral said:

Viggo said:

Thanks for posting.

Do you also have a shot that is exposed more to the right, say, enough to blow the highlights so they can just be recovered nicely? That way you can keep the shadow more "as is"

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Intention was not to blow highlights - so that content in the illuminated windows and showcases is not lost and could be normally seen on normal size print. Lost are are only things that could be sacrificed- sources of lights itself - very small areas on the image . ETR rule is not applicabale for such kind of shots unless this is only for postcard size prints

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Also could add that 1Dx does a very good job in preserving highlights in evaluative metering mode - almost nothing is lost - only sources of lights itself. Still need to see behaviour when highlight protection mode is turned on - but usually that shifts histogram slightly to the left making image even more underexposed - at least on previous bodies

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Actually highlights were recovered on this image to be just on the right side of histogram - before they were out.
Whites were moved to (-100) ,
highlights were set to (-50)
and exposure was moved to EV +1.5
and shadows were set to (+40)

Mt Spokane Photography said:

I hope you also sent the lens. Its very easy to decenter the elements in a lens, a common issue. Probably a fairly good chance that it happened. You should check once you get the body back.

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I haven't, Did some quick test and the lest is fine, however when the camera arrives will test it again.

UPDATE:
Repair status: Repair in progress

shtfmeister said:

both are 30% off of refurbished price and within 10 dollars of each other at canons online store.

both have great image quality
both have IS
one is lighter
the other is weather sealed(I think ?)
one has a longer reach on the aps-c censor
obiously the efs is aps-c only

So which would you pick?

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24-105L. Its a FF lens.

FunkyD3121 said:

The release date is December.
Funny how Nikon announces a New body & it's in stores within 2 weeks.
Canon announces the 6D & it's available(supposed to be) within 3 months???

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Nikon is a lot faster in production..

There are several reviews and NEF files from D600 while we wait to analyze some CR2 files from 6D and it looks like we'll have to wait for a couple of months more!

This is very annoying Canon

Yes, it does depend on the camera model for the in-between ISO noise issue. The 1DX does not appear to have this issue but the 5D3 does. For my 1DX, I have stopped worrying about in-between ISO settings but it appears you still need to remember them for the 5D3.

http://home.comcast.net/~NikonD70/Charts/RN_ADU.htm#EOS%201D%20X_14,EOS%205D%20Mark%20III_14

The next-gen Canon sensors will be at a much smaller transistor level than now. Oh well. :

Has anyone here used a B+W ND1000 Filter on a 5D MKIII and knows the correct white balance setting to avoid the red shift of this filter which it usually produces on daytime long exposures?