Zeiss 100 f/2 vs. Canon 85 f/1.2 II vs. Canon 135 f/2

ecka said:
bholliman said:
I was going to recommend the 135L, but the Zeiss is a great piece of glass. 100mm also is also closer to your 35mm. As somebody else pointed out, the gap between 35 and 135 is a big one.

+1
Every 2x in focal length results in 4x FoV. You can fit four 70mm lens frames inside one 35mm lens frame (sh :)ot from the same distance) and almost sixteen 135mm lens frames inside one 35mm lens frame.
No matter how good the Zeiss 100mm is, the Canon 135mm f/2L has great IQ AND it can autofocus which is a great plus for that focal length (until your subjects sit still).

Plus, one could get a 135mm f/2L and a 85 1/.8 (which is a very decent lens) for the price of Zeiss.

Keep in mind that the above come from someone who swears by his Zeiss Distagon 21mm 2.8.
However, I also have the above 2 mentioned Canon lenses and I am very happy with them :)
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Nikon 14-24 or 16-35 for Nikon D600?

hi , I am a dual system user and my main camera is currently D800E.
I 'd say do not get the Nikon 14-24 , which is really overrated , it is not that amazing.
I mean it is sharp but has terrible distortion , terrible back light performance , does not take any filter , it is huge and heavy and difficult to take care of.
so I think you might want to consider the Zeiss 18mm f3.5 or Zeiss 21mm f2.8 or Nikon 16-35f4VR.

I use the Nikon 16-35f4VR on my 5DMK2.
The 16-35f4VR is a very very practical zoom , it's got great range with VR and it is quite sharp from 16 to 32mm range and it seldom flares.
I have the Zeiss 18 and Canon 24mm TSE for my 5D2 and I have been very happy with the TSE24 and I am considering replacing my Zeiss 18mm f3.5 with the Canon 17mmf4 TSE.
Anyway, I think most of people worship about the Nikon 14-24mmf2.8GED are not owners of it , they are just reading reviews and rave about it, it is a good lens optically , no doubt about it but it is also a very tough lens to use and extremely difficult to take great care of.
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Will Third Party Firmware Void Your Canon Warranty?

iKenndac said:
LetTheRightLensIn said:
They are not really reverse engineering the firmware. The camera still runs the original firmware straight from Canon. It's not a replacement version that they figured out how to write themselves. There is way too much that have no clue about with how DIGIC and the sensor works to even begin such a task. They simply load the regular firmware plus hooks and extensions that they wrote from the ground up.

Yes they are — they reverse-engineered many APIs that the firmware provides to display stuff on screen, get buttons presses, etc etc etc. They wouldn't know *how* to hook into the firmware without reverse-engineering at least some of it to figure out where to hook in.

In fact, they say the project uses reverse-engineering right in their FAQ, under the "Is It Legal?" header: "This is a clean room / black box reverse engineering effort", and again under the "Is it safe?" header: "Magic Lantern was created by reverse engineering an undocumented system that controls hardware."

Yeah but come on that is in the most minimal way, obviously they have to figure out how to hook into button presses or render something to the screen if it will do anything at all. It's not like those MS-DOS clone BIOS where they reverse engineered the whole thing and none of the original BIOS code is even there at all.
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Post your Reikan FoCal 'Quality of Focus' results (all brands)

  • Open Reikan FoCal
  • Select Camera
  • Run Target Setup according to distance chart published below (click find target in target setup to verify distance)
  • Run Aperture Sharpness Test (leave everything default)
  • Save Report
  • Publish Page 2 from the report (720px height)

FoCal Test Distance Chart:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/11469157/FoCal/Docs/FoCal%20Test%20Distance_1.0.pdf

Canon 7D + Sigma 14mm f/2.8 EX Aspherical HSM = 3373,5

Sigma%252014mm%2520f2.8%2520EX%2520Aspherical%2520HSM.jpg

6D vs. 600D with good lenses?

neuroanatomist said:
The 10-22 on APS-C is sharp into the corners, and has far less distortion (1.2%, and that's another area where EF-S wins for the 17-55, which is at 2% distortion at 17mm vs. 4.3% for the 24-105L on FF).

The 17-55 has less distortion at 24mm eq.? I did not know that!

The distortion of the 24-105 is the price you pay for the real wide end and for a slightly more reach. The 15-85 distorts a lot, too. Distortion with today's digital workflow is not such a big problem anymore.
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Down to the RX100 or G15...

I bought the RX100 back in February and I've been happy with it so far. I picked it up as an "take every day" option for my 5DIII. On the plus side is the IQ and small size. For me, the biggest negative is the same as another poster (verysimplejason) mentioned above--I am more familiar with Canon menus and so for me it is kind of a pain in the butt to find what I am looking for in the Sony menus. I use the wrist strap and bought a little Lowepro pouch for it.
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Replacement foot for 500Mk 1

eml58 said:
RGF said:
Thanks NA

neuroanatomist said:
RGF said:
Thanks. Interesting no mention of wimberley or 4th Gen or ...

Wimberley doesn't do a replacement foot for the 500/4, they recommend the P-40 plate, and you asked about a replacement foot not a plate.

The 4th Gen foot is more like a plate than a foot, but one that bolts directly onto the mount. I think they do that for the superteles so the big diameter lenses are centered over the Mongoose head (Wimberley has that issue with their Sidekick and Side Mount heads, and they recommend those flat 'feet' for the 400/600/800 lenses, but not the 500). I don't like that design, because it means you can't use the lens foot as a handle to carry the lens.

Like I said...RRS or Kirk.

Hi RGF, I've changed all my Big White feet with the RRS Foot replacement, I tried the Wimberley Plates but just wasn't satisfied with the set up, the RRS replacement feet have worked exceptionally well, very Happy. The attached is the RRS foot your looking for, I don't have experience with anything else to compare.

For loosening stuck screws I've found this works for me, Place your screwdriver head into the screw, then a sharp tap with a Hammer (sharp tap, not an all out Arnold shot), if this doesn't loosen it, try soaking the screw area in WD40 overnight.

Thanks for advise on how to loose the screw
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new canon lens caps

All 3 bought off eBay for a total of £2.97. Thank you Hong Kong. I actually like the look of them better than the genuine Canons...but dislike the hole they come with to attach one of those stupid strings that you're meant to tie to...somewhere.
All in all a good purchase that has already saved many frustrations.

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Canon 6D 1080p Video Test

Hello all,

I have just uploaded an uncompressed 1080p video test of the Canon EOS 6D. It's actually the first video I've ever shot on any camera ever, so the quality of editing is definitely not the purpose here, but rather simply present examples of 6D video.

6Dvideoquality.png


Video on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/67106188

If you have any questions let me know! Original review article: http://www.grahamclarkphoto.com/review-canon-eos-6d/

--
Graham Clark | grahamclarkphoto.com

How to shoot jewellery and NOT get reflections of the camera

Hey omar,

Congratulations on your committment to do jewelry photography. It is going to be very challenging, but one I'm sure you can handle. I'd just like to offer some words of advice, in that this is going to be incredibly difficult to get no reflections. This is NOT going to be an easy task at all and could take a very long time to master. But that's the fun in it right? Good luck and remember to post photos here and there!
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Light stand recommendations/advice

Random Orbits said:
Thanks RC for the micro ball head and cold shoe links!

Is the Lastolite Ezbox that much better than the Westcott Apollo or is it preferred for its setup/breakdown ease, and ability to turn the flash body toward the camera (as opposed to being completely in the softbox)? I also see that the Lastolite has the Ezybox Hotshoe and now the Ezybox II, which seems like it can accommodate two speedlites using the Ezybox II speedlight bracket. Line-of-sight isn't as big a concern for me because I intend to use Canon RT.

Not in my opinion, I have both the Apollo and Lastolite, they both have positives and negatives. I hate the Lastolite bracket (and price) those sliding universal cold shoes are absolute rubbish and the ABS, or whatever plastic they use, has too much flex in it. The Apollo doesn't tilt easily and without radio (moot in your case) is difficult to control the flash.

The Apollo actually sets up faster than the Lastolite and once you overcome the tilt "issue", either by using a boom or their arm thing I find it nicer.

Although I end up using the Lastolite more if I could only have one it would be the Apollo.
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