Knowing on how regular computer companies build hardware and then cripple it with firmware or die laser cuts id guess the 1DX is not that much different from a 1DC

I.E. NVIDIA video cards QUADRO and FX series very similar cards with different firmware or enabled pipelines, it was more SIMILAR in the older generations of ATI FIRE GL was a 9700 pro but that was ages ago still, why build 2 incredibly different Models when you can just flick a few "switches" for much cheaper

It's like you are paying $3K for a used 1DMkIV. Not bad. Plus, your 7D would lose value faster if you decide it to keep it and sell it later.

Fishnose said:

Besides, it's a bit big for covert work.

Click to expand...

Yes! If that is all Q can come up with, then James and MI6 are in big trouble!! ;-)

Sorry, for some reason I didn't realize one important factor here at play.

As others mentioned, there are several things more that should be considered in the comparison. By photographing the same target with 55 mm (17-55), you are giving a considerable edge on the magnification for the APS-C lens. My suggestion would be to match the Field of views first, (70 mm FF ~ 44 mm APS-C) and check the results again.

However, even this isn't fully comparable since the maximum reproduction ratio of the lenses differ quite a bit (24-70 goes to 1:3.45, 17-55 to 1:5.9). Take the closest focusing distance of 17-55 - or a little bit further - and test both lenses at suggested focal lengths there, now both lenses should be able to focus there with the same field of view.

Then, there are some hints on the 24-70 @2.8 photo that it is slightly out of focus (on your earlier article). The pincer seems to show some greenish hue around the edges as well as the paper, which suggests that the lens might indeed have front- or back focused. Additionally, there is some haze all around the image which might be because of insufficient spherical aberration correction (which would mean some lens element has moved), or again that the lens has not been focused to the right place.

Due to lack of other objects in the 24-70 photo, I can't see where the lens might have focused. And because of the long shutter speed, it might also be that something simply moved during the take, blurring some of the details. Try using a shorter shutter speed too (1/500 perhaps) and add something like a plank to the scene so that it is easier to determine that if the lens focused wrong, where did it actually focus then.

I suppose you used the Central AF point on both lenses. Be advised that the area covered by the AF point is different between full frame and crop body, and that the AF point might not look exactly at the same direction the view finder suggests (this has been rather annoying with macro work occasionally).

Hopefully you get something useful out of this post.

EDIT: Additional question: does the 24-70 have a UV filter in front of it? If so, is it a quality filter?

Thank you so much for these replies! gah I missed the video but this gives me a lot of think about!

RedEye said:

kinda bummed that they don't support the 135MM 2.0L. It's a fantastic lens to start with but it would be fun to see what a perfected rendition of it appears like .

Click to expand...

the 135L is supported now!

What it comes to the zoom ring stiffness, I think they have made it intentionally so to prevent lens creep. Lens creep should not happen at all with a new 24-70 mk I, but the ring tends to become more loose over time so some of that initial stiffness will go away and you may start to see some miniscule lens creep after a couple of years of use. 70-200 F4 is remarkably smooth and easy compared to most of the zoom rings I have tried.

Andy Jazz said:

Just a quick question. When I have calibrated the centre af point on my 1dx should all the Af points be correct?As they all forward focus.

Click to expand...

In theory, yes. But FoCal can actually test them all to confirm...

Thanks for posting!

Can u gift me the 40D? I will gift it then to my fiance

Check Samyang/Walimex/Rokinon/etc. lenses, they offer editions of them especially made for recording videos, the 35mm delivers near L quality (or even higher!) and the lenses are much cheaper.

50L is sold.

Thanks guys and sorry for not picking up during the week.

The comments re dof have been pertinent for me, as I have tried the lenses fully open, with both the dof issues but for me also a loss of sharpness, although to be fair it's the noise I notice the most, which prompted the original post. I am wary of more glass at the moment because, most of the time, what I have I enjoy. Although faster glass would open up more possibilities rather than pushing both the body and the lens to the limit.

New body, 2nd hand or new, costs, but there is a camera body fund that gets added to as I lose weight. A great motivator. I suppose I am trying to to ensure I can make a move that is going to keep me happy for a few years.

I do need to sharpen up my raw editing skills, I use Aperture for most shots, and dabble with PSE for gross manipulation and combination effects.

Thanks again

brianleighty said:

AudioGlenn said:

For the first test, I was using it handheld but for the last measurements I took, I mounted the 70-200 using the tripod ring and it was much easier (lens on tripod, not camera). Getting an estimate on my focusing distance really helped out and I will FOR SURE be using the tripod for macro shots when using the 70-200. I'll try testing out the 40/2.8 as well. That sounds like fun!

Click to expand...

Anyways enough off trackness. One other hint. With the 70-200, you can actually use the zoom ring to focus. With extension tubes the focus range is so limited it's much easier to at least get your course focus this way. Then you can do fine adjustment with the focus ring.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. I actually found that out yesterday during my tests. Yes, it's a very convenient way to focus.

The 1VHS is the greatest achievement in 35mm film photography period. no other 35mm camera even comes close.

I am looking to purchase the Tokina 16-28 f2.8 . Due to its bulbous front element there is no filter thread. Are there any adapter/method or some sort of holder out there that are used on such designs so that one can use filters. I am hoping to use ND filters and really need to figure out there are ways I can attach filters before I hit the buy button.

Thanks

LetTheRightLensIn said:

Well let me put it this way, I just got 140 shots in a row with the 5D3+24-70 II at f/2.8 under indoor lighting 100% in focus.

(by far the best result I've ever had from any lens+body combo)

Click to expand...

Also very happy. 5DIII + 24-70 II is giving some great results.

This one is at ISO 1250 - 1/125s @ f/5, 600EX-RT to camera left in a softbox, fired using an ST-E3-RT. No real post processing - just loaded into LR, cropped and exposure moved back to the left (-0.45EV in lightroom as flash was set +0.3EV).

Plus a 100% crop for the pixel peepers.

ontarian said:

I respectfully disagree, the FD glass has IQ and coating performance that is no worse than similar vintage Nikkor glass. The spider web being described is a common fungus pattern and is the likely culprit of the visible haze. I have a very hairy 50-300 4.5L I got off eBay with a broken mount that I rebuilt with one of my kits recently and a couple of mint same lens copies and the IQ of the shots between the fungsy and clean ones is dramatically different.

Click to expand...

Yup, I missed the post where OP said he found his fungus inside.

Still, the FD lenses I tried were awful with the adapter. Problem was more likely with the adapter I was using but just the same, the effect was a very washed out image that was worse in the center until stopped down.

OTOH, just got me a fungus-spotted 400mm recently that still makes a pretty good image tho I'd like to open it up and remove it before it gets worse.

Press the AF point selection button and the ISO/FEC button together. It's on p.324 of the manual.

Kliphten said:

I used this to test: http://regex.info/blog/photo-tech/focus-chart

The lens seems fine so not sure why I'm getting so many out-of-focus shots.

Click to expand...

The test chart is fine as long as its printed at a low contrast to be certain the AF locks on. I've used Jeffrey's charts many times, and I'm a fan of his. Once FoCal became available, it is far easier to run and provides more information.
One thing he misses, is the part about covering the eyepiece while your camera is on a tripod. That avoids erratic results.
Jeffrey's chart and instructions are for checking front or rear autofocus, but he does not dwell on the proper distance, just mentions that lenses will front focus near mfd.
If you get consistent results when resetting the camera lens to infinity before each of several shots, then the problem does not reside in the camera or lens, but rather in the settings you use.
The default settings work for almost all cases, so only change them when you are certain a different setting is needed.

Hello, I am willing to get the 35L 1.4, but i have read that there is one Version 2 is coming soon; how much money do you think it will be on the market? beacause seeing the price of the new 24-70 is almost 1000USD of difference.

Regards,

Miguel

Thanks for the reply Charlie. Canon has a flat fee of $219 so they say on the phone to fix a 5D II. Wondering if when they got it, if they'd even see that it was already meeting spec and charge a whole lot less, or more likely just tweak it some amount to charge that anyway. Managed 10 years now without ever bothering to send anything to Canon. Funny I bought the thing used very recently for $1500 thinking it made more sense to do so and save a few bucks towards lenses. Now kicking myself since I'll be at the price of new now anyway. If only it were less off I'd just live with it. But kinda pointless to fork out bucks for like the Zeiss 21 and have the camera flange to sensor plane screwing it all the hell up. Least I established it's in the cam. Guess I'll send in the 10-22 and have it cleaned and autofocus fixed just so I can sell it to help pay for the 5D to get fixed lol. I guess my biggest fear is it coming back mostly with the same issue, maybe just improved a little bit or changed its behavior at one focus distance or another. Guessing I should at least stick the 21mm Zeiss in there with it and say at least get the left and right side to match with that lens on there.

Anyway thanks for the thoughts. Surprised more haven't had this done, sorta. I bet it's a common reason people's 'lenses' seem off all the while them never even knowing it could be the body's mount to sensor. Pretty darn certain the T2i I have is off in the same exact way. The mount over a couple years of use with heavier lenses probably often gets pulled the same direction, or something.

Bombsight said:

I see a lot of 5D3's being sold soon if Canon says no to the "pretty daughters".

Click to expand...

The one acting petty daughter, son, brother-in-law, sister-in-law, or anyone else is YOU my friend in addition to those who thought/think that people buying 1DX are throwing away $4000. So don't drag normal people into your pettiness. It has already been said that this is not a 'coveted' xtra special pro*est pro feature which users are whining about unnecessary. Its like saying people buying cheaper cars should not ask for proper rear view mirror. It pertains to basic use and even Rebel series deserves it.
Although it is annoying, I don't think it effects your image quality or creativity; so no, don't lookout for those sweet deals on used 5DIII flooded in the market even if Canon ignores it.

Confirmed: It is a scam, see below:

I feel the urge to Prank the scammer.... any ideas. Here's the email that "Amy" sent me on my inquiry. :

"Amy Stevens
[email protected]
2:33 PM (1 hour ago)

Hi,

Thanks for being interested in buying my 2 x CANON 500mm f4 SUPER TELEPHOTO IS Lens !
I will start my email by telling you that I'm currently out of country so pick up isn't an option. Right now I'm in Italy, just arrived here 3 days ago.
Before I left I found a buyer and I had everything arranged. I paid for the shipping and almost sent it to him. But yesterday the buyer that I had asked me to wait another 4 weeks because he suddenly had other priorities and he is out of money for the moment.
I can't wait this long as I arrive in Italy 3 days ago, and i really need the money, I am in the moving process, changing the work place and everything. A major issue is that if you want to buy my item you really need to have the money ready for it.
The item is as described, in perfect condition and if you accept the deal, it will be delivered at your home address (the item remained in the custody of the shipping company only waiting for a new receiver).
Total price, with shipping included, will be $2500 and the transaction will be made only through Amazon because i am not in the country anymore and this way it's safer for both (the transaction will be handled by the Amazon Buyer Protection Program).
This purchase protection guarantees that the item is exactly as I described; basically, once delivered, you'll have 10 working days to inspect it at your home and if you decide not to keep it you will get refunded in no time and they will charge me with the return costs. If the item meets your expectations and you want to keep it you will have to tell them to release the payment to me. If you are interested in this purchase please reply me with your full name and shipping address. After that i will pass your details to Amazon and you will receive an invoice and further instructions as how you will be able to get possession of the item .




Warmest regards
Amy"

The last 5D Mark IIs are selling and after they are sold out Canon could just release a firmware update for the camera which implements the notorious AutoISO in M mode. How hard can it be? Who wants to write an open letter? My english ain't the best, I'll have to pass. :