paul13walnut5 said:

Use a monopod for support and smooth panning, manfrotto video monopod is actually perfect.

Use Ai Servo, select a point that can rest over your subject throughout your pan, tweak ai servo to hold tracking for longer so that foreground interuptions dont distract focus, track subject with half shutter depress ideally for a fee seconds before a burst.

Shutter 1/30th for most background blur, 1/60th for least subject blur without losing effect.

This will give you a smaller aperture which will also help, especially if the subject gets quite close.

Forget IS but use your AF limiter if you have one on lens.

T R A C K

burstburstburst

T R A C K

burstburstburst

Etc.

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Great advice

if selling 24-105mm for more than $900, then sell it; otherwise, sell 24-70mm for probably more than $1300. it is all about money right either lens is good. sell 24-70mm, you will miss f/2.8. but if sell 24-105mm, you will miss its range and is

TexPhoto said:

I need a zoom lens that covers that range. (Plus I'd like circular fisheye on the wide end.)
Very cool, thanks.

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Thanks. I just told a friend the other day that my dream walkaround lens should be 14-500 F2.8L IS II USM, and that the weight should not exeed the 70-200 II, and the price should not be higher than the latter lens, lol

Do you do much post processing on your images as PP can add that extra punch / pop you might be lacking. Also, I hope you shoot in RAW to get maximum benefit from PP,

Cheers

I like to keep both hands on my camera, left under the lens and right on the grip. I hate that lock button on top. Maybe I'll look into remapping. Thanks for the hint.

adhocphotographer said:

Hey,

Arrived in India and thought i would let you all know i ended up with the 70-200.. in fact my Wife surprised me with it as a late wedding gift...

Bought it in India from a Canon store for 2014 Euro... so cheaper than in France!

thanks for all the advice!

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Really? Wow! Some lenses just went up in price in India by about 33% some 10 or so days back! I think it was due to changes in exchange rates. I am sure you will enjoy it.
Have fun! Do go to the Mysore palace if you like palaces...

I wouldn't worry, Canon will have parts for years, and third party repair services will have them longer.

Also decision heavily depends upon if you shoot Raw or jpeg.

The diff between the 1D IV and 1D III are better AF, low light, IQ and last but not least the IV has 16MP. Specially shooting birds/wildlife the extra mp's helps.

weekendshooter said:

bdunbar79 said:

Simba said:

birdman said:

Easy -- it would infuriate the 5d3 adopters. Plain and simple. I wasn't aware the d600 had the same sensor as the d4/d800/d3x. Even at 24Mp, it's well known that the d600 sensor is a newer (and better) sensor than the d3x.

Those of you who need all that the 5d2 or 5d3 offers will buy it. Besides, the 5d2 should ultimately still prove to be the better overall dslr than the 6d. I'm Nikon shooter now (having owned the 5d2) but miss much of Canon's system -- like the 35L, 100mm macro, etc. Canon will convince me to buy into their system again as well....it just may be years down the road. I know this is pointless -- but I wanted to state that their TELEPHOTO lens selection is simply unparalleled. This is why they OWN the sports photography market. As far as landscapes....they are still very good. It's a tough time for Canon right now, but i DO HOPE they pull out of this "slump", if you will.

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Except for 70-200 f/4, both Canon and Nikon have very similar telephoto lenses. Nikon even has 200-400 that Canon does not have, and I have seen it many times in the fields. Why would you say Canon own the sport photography market?

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Because Canon's 300 f/2.8L, 400 f/2.8L, etc. are way, way better than Nikon lenses. Overall, Canon has better sports lenses, and then of course there is the 1DX which is superior to any Nikon camera in existance.

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...but they're not?? nikon has a 300/2.8, 400/2.8, 500/4, 600/4 just like canon, and also have had a 200-400 for ages, whereas canon's is still nowhere to be seen. Everyone's superteles are very very good performers and nobody would be disappointed with either brand here.

The perception that Canon destroys Nikon for sports/wildlife stems from the early days of EOS, when Canon's quick jump to AF caught Nikon off guard. Since then both brands have more or less equalized and both perform at very high levels.

Also 1DX better than any nikon camera? Sure, if you don't count the D4 or D3S. Again, both brands offer superb performance once you get up to spending $6k on a body and $5-10k per lens.

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Nope. Bzzzzzzzzzzzt. It stems from shooting with two D4 users. End of game, try again.

This is not a design problem at all; I happened to have used this exact setup last night [5D3, 100mm macro, Manual, Live View], and it worked perfectly. If Live View shooting is enabled, the problem must be elsewhere.

Updates to DPP and EOS utilities are out. They cover the G15
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_rebel_t4i_18_135mm_is_stm_lens_kit#DriversAndSoftware

first alpha out!
http://www.magiclantern.fm/whats-new/104-releases/140-first-7d-alpha-released
not everything is working, the dual-digics have some fancy synchronizing going on...very interesting read...great stuff they're doing there!

these guys need support...they are just awesome!

They are in stock at Beach Camera. Use the coupon code Beachtoberfest30 for $30 off. Mine should be here Tuesday.

Edit: They have since raised the price to an unreasonable amount. Mine came in at $2269.

awinphoto said:

Drizzt321 said:

Richard Lane said:

Drizzt321 said:

Don't forget you also need a weather sealed lens to get full benefit of any weatherproofing.

The other thing you need to watch out for is if you'll be in an extremely dusty environment such as the desert. The dust can be very fine, and tends to get into everything no matter how sealed unless you provide additional protection.

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Yes, good points! I'll also add that some weather-sealed lenses need filters to complete the weather sealing. Sand and dust are the worst!

I also like to protect from sea/salt spray if the ocean is rough.

Edited: I'll also add that I always make sure that I have the rain covers for my thinktank belt pouches (which are attached) and the rain covers for my camera bag/backpack to protect the rest of my equipment (don't ever take those out of your bag).

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I'll add that the weather sealing isn't perfect, and with long term exposure to the dust & sand you can still get damage. For example, I was at Burning Man this year with my 5d3 and my 24-105 on basically the whole time. UV filter on the front, a bit of gaffers tape around the lens/body part. I thought I would be fine. Not so! Repair bill with 30% CPS discount came to a bit over $900.

So, if you're just going out hiking for an afternoon and don't plan on being in a whiteout dust storm, even if it's dusty, you'll almost certainly be fine. If you're going to be out on an alkaline dusty desert for a week, do something to seal up the vulnerable parts of your camera AND lens. Sea spray is probably just as bad, especially if it gets inside.

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Holy crap. I knew a guy with a rebel who wanted to shoot burning man. Glad he didn't do it.

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Well, it all depends on if he kept it out all the time, or put it in a sealed bag whenever the dust started to kick up. Probably just as well he didn't, he probably would have kept it out in one of the whiteouts, and dust would have gotten all in it.

revup67 said:

Can you be more specific? Are you referring to Shadow areas? If you're happy with the 7D then the 5D (IMHO) handles noise and resolution so much better

I've got some great bird shots, all cropped off the 5D III with a 400mm L 5.6 at my link if interested
http://www.flickr.com/revup67 (won't post photos to avoid clutter)

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Some very nice shots there.

I'm not sure how the 400mm prime compares to the 100-400 zoom for AF.

yes, shadow areas and lower midtones are my concern with both 5d2 and 7d, and even the 5d3 frankly, it's not that much better at low ISO than the 5d2. They're all relatively decent at higher ISO.

I'm not happy with the IQ of the 7D or any of the 5ds for landscape work so I limit their use to avoid their weaknesses.

5D's pixel density is half of the 7d's but yes, the quality of those fewer pixels is better because of the better SNR.

I've considered this trade before but, because that still leaves the 5d3 as a one-trick-pony in my stable, I can't justify moving to it just for this purpose at this time. If I didn't already have both of those bodies the 5D3 would be a clear choice.
IF the 5D3 price drops to about $2500 and stays there, I'll consider the trade only because...

.. I can't find a zoom that's comparable to the 100-400mm L that works in the Nikon lineup.
If I did, I'd have my answer!

with Canon alleged to be improving their sensor tech in the next generation of cameras I have another reason I don't want to buy a 5D3 now. 7D2 might be much improved or another FF body may appear that will do a better job. Then I'd have a better case to justify a new FF Canon as I could also use it with their excellent T&S wide angles.

As it is right now and for the foreseeable future, Nikon bodies are meeting most of my critical needs much better and will likely continue to do so for the next year or 2.

Hello.
Am looking to buy a snug cover for 1dx but cant find one. Any clues?
This is what Delkin told me: (I bought cover for 5d3 from them.)

Hi Sanjay

Thank you for interest and inquiry regarding our professional line of Snug-It protective skins. I am sorry to inform you that we don’t carry a snug-it for the 1DX camera and don’t have future plan for it as well. The 1DX camera is very expensive and very few customers have that camera. Most of our snug-it’s are designed for more affordable SLR cameras that have a demand in the market. If have any further inquires please feel free to contact us with any questions.

Dylan777 said:

param said:

5D2 or 5D3? 5D3 certainly.
Will the 5D3 deliver better "picture quality" than the 60D? For the most part yes.Will buying all this gear help put an end to obsessive day dreaming? No.

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My 2cents.... NOT most part. 5D III is better than 60D in everything, from chassis, IQ, AF, speed etc.

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Yes I had the 60d with 17-55 2.8 and now I have the 5d3 with 24-70 ii and its better in everyway. Never regretted my decision. I do not shoot professionally so I could have considered the soon to be released 6d which may be an option for you but the 5d iii is just a great body like dual cards af system etc. great iso performance.

Someone on here recommended XOSKINS to me.
I gave it a try and love them. I can't even tell they are there.

http://xoskins.com/

jbayston said:

the trouble with these massive file sizes is that it shows the lenses to be less than perfect. i still think that a great lens and a reasonable size sensor would beat and average lens and massive sensor.

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I would argue that it shows there is a renewed need for image stabilization. Or, alternatively, that the user doesn't have nearly as steady of hands as they think they do.

I can't say much about consumer lenses, as they are mass produced and use lower quality materials for the optical glass. But professional grade lenses, particularly Canon L-series telephoto lenses, are made with much higher quality glass and usually hand crafted for precision. I believe Canon's latest Mark II telephotos are plenty capable of resolving enough detail for a 46.1mp sensor. I recently used the new EF 300mm f/2.8 L II IS, the successor to what was previously considered Canon's sharpest lens ever, period. The sharpness of that lens is unbelievable, and was fully capable of keeping up with my Canon 7D for birds (lots and lots of super fine feather detail). Even my slightly older Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L II lens is capable of keeping up with the resolution of my 7D, and it isn't anywhere close to the engineering feat that the 300mm lens is.

The 7D, BTW, has a pixel pitch about the same as a 47.6mp FF sensor would have... So I seriously doubt anyone will have a problem with lens resolution, so long as they use professional-grade glass, and use newer lens models.

BruinBear said:

So i was looking up diffraction limits and i noticed that on my crop body, 60D the diffraction limit is f/6.9.

What does this mean in practical terms? If a lens i have is sharpest between f/8-f/11 should i still keep the aperture greater than f/6.9 because of this limit?

Thanks guys

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Diffraction is a property of lenses, not sensors as your title suggests. Therefore, a 60D does not have a diffraction limit.
Resolution of a lens depends on the lens design, and will be highest at different apertures for different lenses. However, having a high resolution is only one part of a high IQ. As you stop down, most lenses have reduced distortion, and reduced CA's.
Where a sensor comes in, is that sensors with more resolution can see diffraction better, but it is caused by the lens.
As you can see in this chart with a 15mp Canon 50D and 40mm f/2.8 lens, the resolution does not vary greatly out to f/8. The Chart below it shows basically the same pattern for the 5D MK II

40mm on 50D



40mm on 5D Mark II


Now, here is the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro lens. It shows the effects of diffraction really taking hold at f/16 and f/22.

100mm on 50D

If I'm not mistaken, you said you were looking for FD primes for an FD bayonet equipped Canon 35mm, correct?

Almost any of the primes mentioned so far will serve you well on any FD bayonet camera body. I use an FT QL from 1966 and an FTb QL from the following year and love all of the following on either of the two Canon film bodies I have.

FD 24mm (they make a couple of different versions of this)
FD 28mm f/2.8 (also with different versions)
FL 35mm f/3.5 - Excellent every day, all around lens
FL 50mm f/1.8 (the 1.4 & 1.2 jump exponentially in price. the 1.8 delivers plenty of light to the film plane so don't get too caught up in which one is best)
FL 55mm f/1.4 - probably the sharpest lens I've personally ever put on any EOS EF Mount camera body - even with an EOS/FD adapter in between.)

All of the 50mm primes are matched for the performance of the metering system as thery were essentially designed around the 50 1.4. Focus sharpness will, of course, be dependent upon your eyesight and how well you see through the finder. Split screen focus was stock for all bodies back then, too, so that helps a lot in darker situations.

Sitting Elf said:

I know the price will be high, and I'm budgeting for that.

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Yeah, I actually figured as much when I looked at your signature, but that was after I had already posted my comment : )

Anyway, here's an interesting thing: as reported on NL, Foto Konijnenberg in Netherlands is actually already taking orders for the 200-400, although you can currently only order one bundled with either a 1DX or 5DIII and they're showing it as "out of stock". If you substract the price of the camera from the bundle, it makes the price of the lens itself to be around €10,000, which means that it will probably be, indeed, $10,000 in the US. And it also means that the announcement should be right around the corner.

just wanted to thank you guys who've spoken so highly of these flash triggers. i bought a set last week and I'm happy, and impressed. Even the firmware update went smoother than i could have hoped for. I've got a wedding in two weeks that i'll be soloing and these are going to be very handy. Thanks.

I never understood anyway what a photo camera gotta do with shooting videos. Its a gimmick they just added to suck the money out of videographers pockets