That head shot was also processed in DxO which alters sharpness and bokeh.

bchernicff, hope you don't mind, I had to try this . Here I my first attempts . Now I'm thinking JELLO !

If you are a member of CPS, they loan equipments to gold and platinum members. May be hard to get when you need it,but worth considering

RGF said:

They offer 1Dx,but never seen a great white listed on the canon USA store - either refurbished or new

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Correction - canon on-line shop lists the 400F2.8 II and 800. Strange collection. No 500 or 600

RGF said:

As the card gets full, the camera would make noise like film rewinding. ;D ;D

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Cool idea. ;D LOL

scrappydog said:

I have not used the pinhole cap, but I have used the Holga lens for Canon.

Link: http://shop.holgadirect.com/products/holga-canon-camera-slr-lens-hl-c

It looks like a lens, but it is only a pinhole. I not noticed dust issues with it, but I do not shoot with it often. Although it will mount on both crop and full-frame cameras, the vignetting on full-frame is too extreme. It is best to only shoot a pinhole with a crop camera.

Here is a landscape shot I took with my Holga on my 60D:

Arlington Bridge, Washington, DC by scrappydoggy, on Flickr

Although the shots are in color, I generally prefer to convert to black and white. It's a liberating way to shoot because you do not rely on sharpness or technology. Composition is the critical factor.

Here is an article on shooting with a Holga: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/photo/essays/vanRiper/010706.htm
Pros use them too: http://www.jeff-friesen.com/Holga.html
A good resource: http://www.pinholepossibilities.com/artists-who-make-pinhole-photographs.html

Have fun!

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Beautiful picture! Thanks for the reading. I only have FF, but my wife has a 600D. I will definitely look at the links you sent.

Thanks,

G.

I'm about to buy the 24-70 mk2, and wonder if people still experience copy-to-copy variation of significance? Or was this only the first sold?

Does anyone have some sharpness-results from Reikan Focal to share so we can compare different ones?

Thanks!

"So let me get this straight..you are judging a fisheye's quality but how it can be de-fished???"

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No, of course not. You are the one who said the full frame fisheye is a "low use one trick pony type of lens" I was just illustrating that it isn't, however the circular fisheye is. I was responding to your strawman and you then tried to turn that around to belittle my input. :

"Currently, the only Canon fisheye on sale is the zoom. The prime was discontinued shortly before it's release. So unless one buys one second hand, they are no longer available."

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Actually the prime was available for a while after the zooms release, but did you read the OP's actual question? He stated this "The canon 8-15 is out of the range of what I want to spend. I was thinking on a second [hand] canon 15 2.8 or a sigma." Clearly you didn't.

With regards your Flicker feed and websites, I have nothing polite or pertinent to say.

As for the 85mm comment, again you are throwing up a strawman argument and you compound your error as you have obviously never shot high school basketball, if you had you would know the 85 f1.8 is practically de rigueur, my original comment was just that the biggest and highest spec lens is not necessarily the most appropriate for a specific task, something that would have been patently obvious had you tried to shoot that high school basketball with your 85 f1.2. Many people consider it to be the best lens available for the task, there certainly are not "loads of other lenses far better suited to that role".

Clearly, had you read the OP's opening comment, you would have realised your strong opinion about the 8-15 zoom is a nonstarter. Too much money and unrequested functionality, apart form those two fundamental criteria I think you nailed it. DOH!

Adywilson said:

I am looking at getting a 70 -200 F2.8 L 2. I have at present have the excellent 70- 300f4-5.6L, is it worth buying the 70 200L or would be better to go for 85F1.2L and the 135 F2.0L, and advice would be most appreciated.

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It kind of depends

do you feel you NEED f2.8 throughout the 70-200 range?
if yes then get the 70-200

however from a practical standpoint depending what you shot I would say get the 135 f2L for use when you want faster glass and have the 70-300 for a very high quality flexable zoom option

I use my 85 and 135 more than the 70-200 these days however certain things such as fashion runway shooting the 70-200 f2.8L IS II has pretty much no equal and for this typically a 70-300 would be too slow, I have considered the sigma 120-300 for this type of shooting but have yet to actually test a copy to see how it goes vs the 70-200

I know this might be slightly off topic, but I do just fine with a 600 ex-rt, a 430 ex II. Sure my recycle times aren't what they could be with studio strobes but at 1/16 power on both of them (1-softbox, 1-umbrella), I'm between f/5.6-f/8 @ISO 320, 1/160th sec., AND they're portable. I'm sure I could bump up the power and lower the ISO to 100 for similar apertures.

That Losmandy looks very interesting, I've been looking for something a bit more potable than my Atlas EQ-G.

is it too late for more spring flowers?

I'm confused by some of these responses and I think you're getting bad information. The AF selection points and AF mode are independent. The expansion points work perfectly fine in One Shot -- it's your personal preference on how useful/effective the extra points are for your shooting needs. For however many point are selected the camera will lock focus on the activated point (or points) it determines is the most ideal candidate based on distance, contrast and whatever other mojo is going on the in the AF chip. I typically use a 9-pt square for focus and if the point lights up off of the face of my subject I just recompose -- I very rarely hit focus on the background. This works great for me when shooting events because I just need to get a point to lock anywhere on face.

For switching modes, you can do so in less than a second on the 5D3 using custom modes...I do it all of the time without missing a beat. Once you get used the the action to switch modes, the dial isn't bad at all. On the 1DX, you have no excuses to complain. Using the custom route as Neuro suggested is nearly instantaneous. You can even tell the camera how many modes to toggle through, so you aren't wasting button pushes. Additionally, and more in line with what someone mentioned with the DOF button, you can assign either of the custom buttons to activate Servo while pushed and return to One-shot when released. I have configuration on my 1DX with the other custom button set to toggle between my current AF point selection and all points active, so i can very quickly expand to all points to catch a moving subject.

It seems to be an excellent lens!
Not something I'd likely be able to afford (hobbyist photog), but I could see myself renting it for some special shooting at times.

I have a old Cosina 19-35mm which flares like crazy. But I do like it! Post your prettiest lensflare! I am curious to see!

My opinion ... (maybe) sell the 17-40mm for a good price; and make the 5D with 50mm lens portable. I carry my 30D with 24mm lens everywhere: it gets knocked about and stuffed in bags - to the extent that the paint is polished clean off at certain areas.

Here:
Canon Cinema Primes vs. Canon L Series on Vimeo

They are both "sharp".

One thing that they mentioned about the NEX and most of the other mirror-less cameras is that they have contrast based focus only and the lenses for the DSLR are created for cameras using phase detection. But since I have a NEX6 with Hybrid AF why isn't it seems to be a little bit faster compared to a mirror-less camera with only contrast detection AF. From what I read so far it doesn't seems to be any bigger performance gains there, is this a "hardware" limitation or is it a software limitation?

Can the Speed Booster be updated in the future to improve the AF speed?
Or can a future Speed Boster for EF to EOS-M be a better solution?

I actually hoped (thought) that the EOS-M would be faster and better than a NEX using my current EF lenses, but I don't know right now. I like the NEX6 but I still hope the AF speed can be similar as a consumer level DSLR with my EF lenses in the future.

I don't want to be forced to buy alot of new EOS-M/NEX leses in the future, maybe a few but it would be nice to be able to continue to use the EF lenses as well.

Many questions, hope you guys can help me to answer some of them.

Thanks in advance, Stolpe

Re: Magic Lantern adds raw silents DNG Bursts & raw Auto-ETTR

wickidwombat said:

i was wondering about this so effectively on a 5Dmk3 you can capture full res raws at 24FPS now!??!!
INSANE!

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It isn't full raw res because a) the data rate would be way to high as a uncompressed dng & b) "only" the live-view buffer is grabbed which has afik different sizes on different camera generations - but it's still great for quick "capture the moment" bursts and timelapses/focus stacking w/o killing your shutter. You can also use the live view 5x zoom mode for extra reach if you just want part of the picture.

tombu said:

I hope my 600D supports autoETTR Would be very useful when taking landscapes!

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Atm 60d (I've got one, too) isn't supported for auto-ettr but just silent dng, but they're working on it - most features make it first to the cameras where the current development focus is, i.e. 6d/600d/5d3 and are then backported to our good ol' models...

Is the second shifted image HDR?

Hi,

Can share?

One Ceiling bounce, One Wall bounce, One direct indoor, and One direct outdoor, preferably shooting group of people.

My intention is only to make fill flash, removed shadows in face, not to light whole seen.
I believe 270ex is enough for this. what do you think?
I am using 6D + 28mm 1.8.

Thank you very much.

Great images

Canon's raw files are often pretty flat and may well need a bit of extra contrast and/or saturation to really pop, especially in a muted scene like that. However in those two you have much better bokeh in the 6D picture which makes a difference and it looks a bit crisper but the colour balance of the olympus makes it look a bit more appealing.

If you have idle asset, sell it.