Posts

EOBeav · May 19, 2013

SwampYankee said:
This lens turns up on the Canon refurbishment site from time to time. Set up an alert on SlickDelas for when the Canon refurb site advertises. When they advertise they have almost everything in site or just keep checking back. By buying from Canon you know you have a lens that has been checked out by Canon and is perfectly clean. One usually turns up every month of so: http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/subCategorySort_10051_10051_-1_22751_highPrice_list#

Good to know. I created an account and put it on my wish list. When it becomes available, will I get emailed directly from that list?

miah · May 19, 2013

spturtle said:
Yes I got that, and I assumed you used "Adjust by lens", so I wondered if (after removing the current setting) you could set the measured amount in "All by the same amount" and then add the teleconverter. And alternatively if you could set up "Adjust by lens" while the Kenko teleconverter is attached. But the latter will most likely crash the camera at some point so I'm not asking you to try this. I have kenko teleconverters so if I ever get another camera it will have AFMA and I can test it myself (my 600D doesn't do AFMA).

Hmm, interesting ideas. I might have time to experiment a bit with some of the combos you suggest, tomorrow. I did record all of my AFMA numbers for each lens, so there's no risk of losing them and having to retest. I'll let you know how it goes.

Marsu42 · May 19, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
Just curious as to why you'd need a tripod ring for the 70-300L (and not the 70-200/4L?)...

I think Canon should have added it, esp. for this price ... I have got a China version which is very cheap and very sturdy (yes, both at the same time) since I figured out that shooting on tripod @300mm with the 70-300L doesn't work for longer exposure times w/o tripod ring.

unfocused · May 19, 2013

Several good and reasonable reasons have been identified here. But one that hasn't been mentioned that also contributes to this is that Canon is a multinational company. Its costs cannot be limited to any one nation or one currency.

A falling Yen does not reduce the costs of its production facilities in other countries and it may actually increase some of its costs for materials and labor.

Another major consideration – Advertising makes up a huge percentage of a company's total costs. A falling Yen is not going to reduce the cost of advertising in National Geographic or any of the hundreds of publications that Canon advertises in. They have to pay for those ads in the local currency, so exchange rates, again, can hurt as much as help.

When talking about a company the size of Canon, there are just too many variables to presume that one thing (like the exchange rate of the Yen) will have a major impact on prices

sevvo · May 19, 2013

LR4 and Viveza 2...

Dylan777 · May 19, 2013

No comment on 85 f1.8, never own one...

My vote is 50mm(=80mm to FF) for portrait. I used to have this lens prior 50L. On my copy, sharpness starts from f1.8 - f2.

I feel 85mm(=136mm to FF) might be to tight for indoor. I tried 135L on my 5D III few weeks ago, it was little tight for indoor.

thegreatsd · May 19, 2013

scottkinfw said:
cant separate the content from the technical- dumb.

To be fair we were going for dumb fun. Looks like we got half of it for you!

deleteme · May 19, 2013

I love the silent shooting available on the Dmk3. This illustrates perfectly the distraction the average DSLR creates in most shooting situations (except, of course, sports)

tiger82 · May 19, 2013

Thanks

smithy · May 19, 2013

On the back of this thread I decided to spend the $10 and bought DSLR Controller to use on my Nexus 7. I already had a USB on-the-go cable, so it worked straight away with my 5D3.

So far I'm reasonably impressed. However, it is taking me a little bit of time to figure out the interface!

LetTheRightLensIn · May 18, 2013

cayenne said:
LetTheRightLensIn said:

ML RAW gives MUCH better quality, have to blind AND not trying to not instantly see the difference. The Ninja 2 1.2.1 external recording stuff is a minor little difference that most times you have to reallllly look to notice and well a basic static shot and you'd be hard pressed to see much difference but with ML the difference leaps out at you.

Of course the Ninja 2 does record gobs of footage at once and is tres easy to handle and you don't need to do slow pr-processing step for every little minute clip (OTOH that slow pre-process also is done with full power of ACR and even ACR and PS so you can get things so good that you don't even need to process anything in PP or use any slow tools there which does greatly speed up final compression time in PP so you gain some time back there, it's just it is a bit nicer to have the slow stage later rather than earlier, but whatever).

But most people have been kinda hmm eh I mean I guess a little about the HDMI+Ninja 2 and like OMG!!!!!!!!!!! about the ML RAW.

Once ML works with 1.2.1 the Ninja would make a nice zebra/focus peaking monitor though over HDMI since, at least for now, the ML RAW hack tends to crap out earlier at times if you try to force it's focus peaking and zebras and fancy stuff to run full force at the same time as the ML RAW is going.

If you do run 1.2.1 over HDMI I think the Atmos Ninja 2 type stuff is the way to go over the Black Magic for various reasons.

But man that ML RAW is just wow!

I wonder if they will find a way to feed the HDMI out with a less mangled signal. It would have to be 10bits at most and probably 8bits since I bet Canon didn't use HDMI 1.3 although who knows 1.3 is ubiquitous these days. It seems criminal that it took Canon six months to get the same crappy singnal out of HDMI and ML gives us this RAW stuff in three weeks. Perhaps the digic chip just utterly sucks at debayer and processing (in cam jpgs were never nearly as crips as RAW, but then again they do seem much better than the video stuff so....) and maybe that is why they say they do not use digic in C300 but use older video cam chips for processing?? (but still the in cam jpgs are better than the video they get out of it so....)

That said they did slightly tweak the video for 1.2.1 so whether hmdi or internal it does produce a bit better signal than it does with the older firmware. (which also reminds me DO NOT compare 1.2.1 HDMI Ninja 2 footage to pre-1.2.1 internally recorded footage since that footage is worse than the new internal footage quality).

Click to expand...

I gotta think the Ninja and other external HDMI recorders out there, expecting the 5D3 market to open up to them are just hating life right now, with the new ML Raw stuff coming out...that is so far, exclusively CF based.

There goes a market for them unless the ML people can somehow put this stuff out of HDMI, which by the numbers, doesn't look hopeful.

C

There will still be those who need the easier workflow, but yeah, they may be the biggest losers out of it all.

distant.star · May 18, 2013

.
"I learn by going where I have to go."

The Waking
-Theodore Roethke

marvinhello · May 18, 2013

Time for an update!

The reason why Canon still hasn't publicly announce the 25p firmware for 1D C is that they found a serious defect in the initial release (version 1.1.9 in early May), their official word is "image tearing can sometimes occur during recording". So they stopped updating cameras with this version and delayed the announcement to end-of-May (as of writing). Currently they are still working on revised version and further delay could be possible.

1D C owners, please be patient

R1-7D · May 18, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
Doesn't apply to you, but I use Aperture, and a little app called Aperture Inspector to pull all sorts of stats from my libraries.

Is Aperture Inspector a plug in for Aperture? Would you mind telling me how to get it?

As always, your knowledge and insight to all of this makes this forum great. Thanks!

EDIT: link was already provided in the thread!

BrokenArrow · May 18, 2013

Some corrections needed from me. I had stated that bodies had gone up by $100 the other day but, with the exception of the non-kit 6D, they were raised by $200 in one fell swoop. And although the earlier report about refurb stock at Canon Price Watch was accurate, I must have caught them in an update period that morning. Stock across refurbs is low but apparently not to the level I indicated. My apologies. With the dollar up against the yen by 30+%, due to a concerted effort by the Japanese government since last fall, you would think there would be a certain amount of price flexibility in the downward direction instead of up. However, such times are prime time for padding the margin before price competition restarts. The ~6% price rise this week added to that yen change is a 36-40% price movement, a price increase if you will (I have chosen not to start the comparison with the low price points prior to the "rebate"). Nice work if you can get it. It should be remembered though that up till last October Canon, like other Japanese manufacturers, suffered some from the exchange rate. Still, this aggressive, planned move of their currency is not a flash in the pan, it is a long term policy that I expect to see maintained as they try to get their moribund economy back running again. It remains to be seen if Canon's (and others) pricing will reflect that or if our demand will allow them to charge these newer prices. It's not going our way folks, good time to wait and watch.

eyeland · May 18, 2013

Gonna get a Kenko set as soon as my budget allows it. At the moment, the piggy-bank is going towards a new set of CF after the recent development with ML and RAW video

May 18, 2013

A few options:

Seperate recorder: tascam DR100, Zoom H4n etc. Another device to charge, hit record on, files to synch.

Interface device: juiced link or beachtek, adds XLR connects to your cam, some are powered (phantom) some are passive. I currently use a beachtek DSLR-5Da. I have a DXA-4 (very basic passive XLR interface with line / mic. mono stereo switching and level dials) for sale just now. This is a good match for the 5D3 as you can monitor from the camera. Your mic would need it's own power source (such as a K6 module) These generally sit underneath the camera, so are better if you don't want a big massive rig.

New Tascan DR-60D.

a combination of both, an integrated recorder and interface. You can record internally to SD, but also pump a feed to your camera. Also sits on the camera. Has phantom. Looks like being the mutts nutts.

If you want to PM me I'll give you more details about the Beachtek DXA-4 I'm selling.

May 18, 2013 · May 18, 2013

They are applied at the processing stage.

You need to install some kind of LUT plug-in to your edit suite (see Magic bullet LUT Buddy)

http://www.redgiant.com/products/all/magic-bullet-lut-buddy/

This lets you apply a gamma/rgb curve in post to lift or crunch certain ranges in your image, with the 'flat style' being the best possible starting point for the associated LUT.

Zv · May 18, 2013

gjones5252 said:
magic lantern on the 5dm2 the one it seems to work on.
Did the wedding today and still had troubles.
It is like when in av and ettl the camera and flash do not communicate(may also be in other mode but just not manual) no matter how i change the settings it is still blown out by a considerable amount. And this is with iso static at 100. no and the aperture set at what ever applicable for photo. and high speed sync to ensure it can acquire necessary shutter speed.
It is driving me nuts. in Manual mode on camera i can get it but i feel like i used to us AV and ETTL all the time.
probably me just not knowing how flash is working.

Thats because in Av mode the sync speed is limiting the shutter speed. You'll need to put it in manual and then use high speed sync on your flash. Only prob is now the power is reduced so you'll need to add about +2 FEC.

Admin US West · May 17, 2013

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expatinasia · May 17, 2013

Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

There was no need for a challenge, and if indeed there was one, then that's a pretty childish thing to do.

I do not think there is any doubt about just how great the 300 f/2.8 mark ii is, and as you say it works great with the mark iii TCs. I keep looking at the 300, as it is cheaper than the 400, but I know deep down that it is the 400 f/2.8 mark ii I want and need, and if I splurge on the 300 then it will be even longer before I get the 400 so am trying to resist the "cheaper" option

.

For lens reviews I love TDPs efforts, as he covers everything you could possibly want to know about lenses.

noisejammer · May 17, 2013

I've used a lot of Jim Kendrick's dew prevention gear on my scopes - it works well. http://www.kendrickastro.com .

In lenses, apertures, ISO... The short version is that you need to experiment with your camera. I strongly recommend stopping your lens down at least 1 stop. I do not recommend a zoom because sometimes the focal length changes and things get weird. This is not a bad thing - simple primes can do a very good job.

The 500 / focal length rule is ok - it may be a little conservative. Pixel size is important but the sensor size is is irrelevant. This means that if you have ~6 micron pixels - like the 40D and 5D2, the motion blur will be essentially the same.

Bear in mind that it is easy to construct and use the most basic of tracking mounts, the barn door tracker. There are many designs on the web, some are complex while others are trivial. For those inclined to buy a tracking mount, Astrotrac and Losmandy offer ready bought solutions.

tron · May 17, 2013

Unfortunately Belise is no longer the same:

http://rt.com/news/belize-mayan-pyramid-destroyed-234/

http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2013/13/130515-belize-pyramid-destroyed-archeology-maya-nohmul-world-road/

chauncey · May 17, 2013

Hijack...compare battery life of the 5D3 to that of an elderly Dw3.

jonathan7007 · May 17, 2013

I have to add that being able to run a head way down to that lowest setting with just a rocker switch is a powerful capability for location or even product photography. Food photos come to mind, real estate. With the big Normans (admittedly the old series 2000d packs) we were adding heads just to split power, or madly swapping connectors to move ratios around. Sometimes if an assistant moved too fast through that process there would be a loud bang and we'd have to pick the guy off the floor <grin>.

Ah, the good old days...

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