I have had regrets about not having my camera with me, but not normally with wildlife. If I am going to be going anywhere outside the city the camera is always packed.

jcollett said:

Don Haines said:

One night, while walking home from the local bar, I saw bigfoot and Elvis, but with no camera to take a picture, nobody believes me....

Seriously though..... the site where I work is secure.... fences all around.... 3 kilometers by 8 kilometers in size, and contains a firing range.... It is the perfect spot for wildlife.... the firing range is crawling with wildlife. (It is a career ending move to shoot anything other than targets). Problem is, no cameras allowed. I have seen deer by the thousands, bear, moose, wolves, coyotes, fox, a cougar, there are several Osprey nests, an eagle nest, scads of Red Tailed hawks..... I keep having to chase wild turkeys away....AND I CAN'T TAKE PICTURES WITH MY CAMERA!!!!!

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What a country! Shoot bullets ... great. Shoot pictures ... no way! Guess you'll need to rig up a camera to look something like this to get in.

http://www.royarden.com/blog/pictures/115940.jpg

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Jcollette, it might seem amusing but I have actually rigged up an old rifle stock to hold my DSLR. I did it simply because I had the parts to do it. It isn't that convenient for changing settings (I am looking into wiring up an extra set of controls on the stock for that) but I couldn't believe how much easier it is to track moving animals with it. It is also great if you are laying in the scrub waiting for a shot as it is a lot quicker and easier to keep it steady when shooting handheld. Te downside is the strange looks that you get when unloading the car at the national park carpark. I have been stopped and questioned by the rangers a few times already, but once they get a proper look at the rig they are fine with it.

AZRAE1 said:

i have just bought myself a new 24-105mm lens and was thinking of buying the Lens Extension Tube EF 12 II and was wondering how much difference this will make etc; how close i can expect to get before the picture goes blurry im sorry if this is a stupid question im new to photography :-[

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Extension tubes work just fine with that lens. I would recommend getting a set rather than just one so you have more choice. There are many cheap sets out there. As long as they work with AF they should be fine. But you will MF or live view focus much of the time anyway.

I seem to remember the max focus distance will be the focal length over the ET length.

On face recognition - I had the 6D sitting on a bench as I played with the Wifi and there is absolutely no doubt it recognizes and refocuses on a face. I was moving my head all around and watching the camera's behavior on my computer monitor.

These camera discussions always represent opinions that are personal and I wouldn't push a 6D over a 5D3 unless money was an issue. However, I really wanted WiFi for remote shooting and the 5D3 didn't have it, so that finally made the difference for me. I was very apprehensive about the AF and decided that I was OK with recomposing at least until the next "has it all" crop camera hits the shelves. Getting the 24-70 F4, and the 300 F2.8 with both extenders was a killer on the pocket book! Also I didn't like the extra size and weight of the 5D3.

Todays shot 6D 300 2.8 II 2X III 1000th F5.6 ISO 1600 late evening

Jack

paul13walnut5 said:

...have the actor walk right into the lens at the end of your indoor sequence and right away from the lens at the start of the outdoor sequence...

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this is what we are calling creative mind... i do not know how to do video and rarely join on video topic. this is the first time since i spot a really great comment.

i love it...

Martin said:

I had exactly the same problem and it was real. After three service visits they exchanged the mirror box. Atfer that repair the AF points' misplacement was corrected however since then I struggle with AF system. Since almost a year from purchase the camera is being serviced all the time without any good solution. My guaranty is almost over and the camera is like piece of crap. I can only suggest you to push the store to exchange it as probably any service will not fix that. I checked 3 canon services and every time if one thing was corrected the other one was not working properly. Right now center and left points are backfocusing and right points are focusing in opposite direction. One year of frustration without taking photos. Unfortunately IMHO if you think your AF points are misplaced-you are probably right. In my camera when I focused on the edge of any target it focused far away. And it was obvious that it happened only in one edge of focus point. It is normal that the real focus point has more area than its layout in viewfinder however not only in one direction. As I said-they fix this but camera probably lost all factory tolerances and now AF is just useless.

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Sounds scary. I guess I'll have to discuss the issue once again with the service. They suggested that they'd move the viewfinder inside the body so that the points get aligned. To me this sounds like fixing a problem with another one and most likely doing more damage than anything else. If they mess up the AF, a serious problem is created to replace the possibly cosmetic one.

Now that I checked the issue again, I can also see (with the grid on) that the grid lines are longer on the right than on the left side of the frame. This tells me that the viewfinder might actually be in place but the indicated points are off center. ... Well, I don't know. I use cameras to take photos. Someone else can repair these things, but I hope that the someone also knows what he/she is doing while at it.

Thanks!

The ML folks are making all my wishes come true!

Now my 300 mm f/4 performs like a 900mm f/4 in video mode, that is like a 3X zoom without any loss of light!

Here is how: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5441.msg35624#msg35624

As someone else noted, it depends on what the OP wants to do.
The 24-70 is, inarguably, a superb lens. However, they may want a faster lens for the DOF aspect although I feel the Canon 50's are poor value in terms of optical quality (for the 1.4) and cost (for the 1.2).
The 100 is a tack sharp optic that offers a FL the zoom does not.

But.... for me the zoom offers the unassailable advantage of being at the FL I need instantly. I shoot events and lifestyle. I do not want to be fussing with a lens change when I need to shoot NOW. It was bad enough in the film days but with digital sensors and their sensitivity to dust, I will do anything to not change lenses. All the putative advantages of primes go out the window when I don't have a shot.

J.R. said:

Drizzt321 said:

Ok, got my scans done and a few bits of editing, mostly just removing dust and specks from the scan. Here ya go whoever wants to see them https://plus.google.com/photos/102378497314145496618/albums/5876055902888292097

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Nice images ... I would guess the slides would be even more impressive.

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Definitely. I tried to match the slides pretty closely, but I think I'd need to spend a lot more time tweaking the scan process to get closer, and even then I probably won't quite match it.

I like the bkg. But find the head room excessive.

Love the photo though.

A camera is only a tool. Better tools make life easier, but are no substitute for workmanship

For me, the histogram is the most important quality check in the field, mostly to correct for exposure. I shoot raw to correct white balance and fine-tune exposure in post.

Second image is my favorite. B&W can be tough but I think you picked the right images and did the right PP to make it work.

paul13walnut5 said:

I have energiser batteries. Calumet batteries. Sigma lenses. A tokina lens.

I have a canon flash.

Whenever the question comes up in forums I always say 'buy a canon flash'.

This is why.

Not very helpful, but true.

The money spent on cheapies is wasted as the third party guns have no resale value, and you'll end up buying the canons anyway. There is such a thing as a false economy. Tripods. Flashguns. Don't scrimp.

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True dat. I had a Sigma Flash, their top of the line. Always loved Sigma lenses and never had a problem with the. Hated that flash, sold it on eBay after 2 months and bought a 580II. 5 years problem free....

xps said:

Disappointed by the "artifically" looking (to much contrast, noise,...) IQ of the testes 100D, I check the Olympus OM-D and Sony NEX-7 in the next two weeks...

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I don't think that 100D IQ is noticeably different from 60D or any other camera that shares the same/similar sensor. I don't know what tests are you talking about, but I strongly advise against judging cameras by their default JPEG settings, which are mostly represented by the early samples floating around. IMHO, every "IQ-hungry" person should be shooting RAW and getting the desired result in post. From my experience, no camera can produce an image which mirrors reality. Human vision has much much wider dynamic range than any DSLR or Mirrorless. Did you try the HDR mode?

Always full raw with 5D III

Hydrogen said:

Hello Everyone,

Just wanted to pose a question to those with sufficient experience AFMA testing and adjusting several lenses and bodies. Specifically, I want to discuss Accuracy (how 'spot-on' focus is relative to a target) and Precision (the repeat-ability of focus).

Ref: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Photography-Tips/AF-Microadjustment-Tips.aspx

I have found that more often than not, zero AFMA adjustment on a body for a given lens yields more precision (repeatable results) even if the depth of focus is "off" (front or back) rather than once you adjust the AFMA in either direction, even by +/- 1. This is why I am starting to believe factory calibration of body to lens is better than AFMA tweaks.

Sometimes, but less frequently, higher precision (repeat-ability) is found on an AFMA setting other than zero, but it isn't always the "best" AFMA offset in terms of image accuracy/sharpness.

I believe this is why the FoCal AFMA testing application has a AF Consistency test, which allows you to test various AFMA values in a repeatable fashion, to seek-out the best AFMA setting with the most repeatable results.

Have any of you found the same to be true? That sometimes you may want to trade accuracy for better precision (repeat-ability).

Thanks

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Good discussion. I have not yet tried to AFMA my cameras but I agree I want the best setting to get the maximally sharp pictures all the time.

I use a 14-24 Nikon on a 5d iii body, since autofocus is not an issue this is IMO the perfect lens

Noted. Everyone seems to be pushing me towards the 17-55mm f2.8. I am trying to find it gently used for around $800 or less. I know the refurbished one is $868 shipped currently, and new its $1060. Been trying to find a deal for a while. I really want the 17-55mm for general use and the 30mm for shooting detailed objects (50mm is just too small a window), but it sounds like I could do both easier with the 17-55mm. Both are on my list, but I will see what I can find as far as a good deal goes. I also want to get something quickly so I can go exploring some more with an upgrade.

On my pictures, I was using a tripod for quite a few of the shots, but not everything. I need to get a better one than the old one I found in storage. I hope I didn't piss off the ghosts in the baker hotel after clunking that thing around exiting down the dark stairwell.

The 70-200mm f2.8 is out of my league anytime soon. I would get a full frame before that one. The 15-85mm seems like a much better upgrade than the 18-135 f3.5-5.6, but can be covered with the range I have for now. No clue which full frame I would get yet, but that's another issue for another time.

I also would shoot some concert photos occasionally, which the 17-55mm f2.8 should be good with. I tend to take all sorts of pictures, but want a good setup for urban exploration.

Anyone? Anyone?
Bueller?

8)

Cgdillan said:

cayenne said:

Cgdillan said:

cayenne said:

Cgdillan said:

also, I dump the footage after the video is complete and the client is happy, so if i keep one 2TB hard drive on Thunderbolt or Esata then I should do pretty well with storage space shooting one house at a time.

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Hey, just wondering, if since the BM 4K camera was announced, and also the BM Pocket Cinema camera.....have you reconsidered going BM and getting one of these cameras?

Just curious,

C

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Yessir. I pre-ordered the pocket camera and will be using it with a Metabones Speed Booster and my Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8. I am also on the look out for a decent 1" c-mount super wide angle lens 5-7mm range.

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Too Cool!!

PLEASE, do a post, maybe this thread, to give a report on how it all works,and of course, some footage.


I'm looking to go this route too.
I didn't think the Speed Booster was out yet, or was that just for Canon lenses it isn't out for?
I'm trying to learn the differences and what I would need for the BMPC....I am a bit of a noob, and only know what EF focal lengths are like..not sure how to relate them to the lenses for MFT lenses...etc.

Thanks!!

c

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The speed booster was announced, but is not available yet for MFT and Canon combo. Basically, if you have a FF canon camera and you adapt your lenses to the BMPCC, just multiply your lens "mm" by three. That how tight the lens will be. so a 100mm lens on a FF Canon camera is 100mm but on the pocket camera it would look like a 300mm. and with the speed booster is would look like a 200mm.

Now due to some very unexpected news, releases, and possibilities from magic lantern in the last week, my BMPCC is in danger of being cancelled. Magic Lantern has announced their ability of recording 24p continuos RAW video to CF cards on the 5D mkIII with likely no heat issues. If they get this stabilized, then I may be sticking to my 5D mkIII for my RE video work and canceling my black magic pre-order. We shall see what ML brings us. The way I see it, Magic Lantern has 2 months or so to polish up the raw video from 5d mkIII and win me back from Black Magic. I doubt there are any decent lenses sub $1K that would give me the quality I have with my 5d3 and bower 14mm. So to not have to invest further and just upgrade to better CF cards would be great!

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I'm excited about this ML possibility too!

I have the Rokinon version of your Bower 14mm...very fun lens for a bargain price!!

I would like to try to break into the Real Estate video business, and I've been a big fan of your posts, VERY good stuff. I'm trying to learn by the C.A.S.E method (Copy And Steal Everything)...haha.

But seriously, I'm learning a lot from what you've posted, both posts and videos.

I believe we're in different parts of the US, I'm in the New Orleans area...so,we'd have no competion, so I was wondering if you had any advice on how to get started...what all equipment and processes you use...

I have a slider, an optonika (sp?) cheap-o steadi-cam....manfrotto monopod and tripod...and use FCPX for editing.

Do you use the 14mm a lot? What other lenses do you use? Are you using HDR (I think I recall a post or two showing you did, especially to help with keeping from blowing out highlights in a room from windows, etc).
Are you doing HDR video too?

Any advice or pointers welcome.

I have a couple of contacts in local realestate, but I wanna have my story together before approaching them. I might try to shoot a couple of friends' homes first to put an example video together.

What is the going rate for a real estate video shoot? Do you sign contracts keeping your rights to the video or do you sell those?

I'm also a bit of a techie...I was thinking of offering the videos to be hosted from my home business office servers...I have a business ISP account so I'm good to go on running servers, etc.

Anyway, any advice appreciated!!

Cayenne

We're on it, hope to have it fixed shortly.

Personally, if you are not in a hurry and can wait a bit longer, I'd suggest 60d's replacement - whenever Canon decide to release it.

Cheers

the simplest would be to shoot freehand and use a tool like kolor autopano.

i often shoot freehand panos simply because i don´t have a tripod with me.
autopano works wonders.

on the other hand i had a few P&S cameras with panorama mode and they never worked.
results had visible seems etc.

rambarra said:

Personally I am not a big fan of extremely long focals in climbing photography. As you pointed out best angles are obtained hanging at the side and slightly above the climber. If you are able to place your rope close enough to the climber a 24-105 or even a 16-35 are more suited for the work compared to a heavy 70-200, which is quite difficult to handle when you will be swinging around attached on a rope (especially when doing videos).

Of course if you are far from the climber and/or if you need to isolate the climber from background or make details of hands and such a super tele is best suited.

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Indeed, some of the very best climbing photos I've ever seen were taken with a 24mm (Ed Webster and his pictures of the Neverest buttress route). The IS makes a massive difference when dangling I've noticed which is really when the 24-105 would shine. What I was looking for was mainly for when standing somewhere on the crag shooting people from the side if it is too much hassle to rig up a rope and jumars etc, remember this is a hobby and my I doubt my friends would happily hang around forever while I faff with a rope or two.

I'll give the 70-300L some serious thought, it isn't perfect but then few things rarely are. I may well end up getting a 70-200 f2.8 down the line but you certainly have a point with regards to the weight of it.

I had similar happen to me; the images were coming out pink, and it was the previous image reshown as pink, not what I was pointing at. I sent it to Canon; they fixed a PCB assembly or something like that.