Posts

jdramirez · May 11, 2013

sandymandy said:
Dont take it so hard. Its just some colored paper, its just some digits. If you were a lion for example then it wouldnt matter to you at all even the 300$ are the same. Its just the thought in your head that u can change and then u will feel better. You just made an error. Doesnt mean you are a bad person. Think about city planners who miscalculate by millions. Its all natural, stay relaxed buddy

Thanks. In all honesty... it isn't that big of a deal. I still have enough saved for a 5d mkiii when I find the right price point. And after that... I almost out of stuff I need.

the 35mm sigma or canon and maybe a 1.4 teleconvertor and then done. I don't NEED a tilt shift. I don't need an 85mm 1.4 or a 135mm f/2. So this $300 gives me more time to finish buying stuff I need. But seeing that finish line just that much further away is a little disheartening.

bjd · May 11, 2013

Here's another ill Greenfinch, Vet confirmed Trichomonosis.
I actually put it out of its misery about an hour after taking this photo, its hard
to just sit there and watch them flapping around and falling over etc.
Cheers Brian

Skulker · May 11, 2013

My thinking would be that a zoom TC will compromise IQ a bit at least. If you are using a prime then you are probably seeking high IQ so would be better sticking with a "prime" TC.

If you want a long zoom, can you put the TC on a zoom lens?

BTW I saw somewhere on here that you could stack TC's with an extension tube between them. I tried it the other day and the results were much better than I expected.

KKCFamilyman · May 10, 2013

ihendy said:
I've got both of these flashes with 5d II and have visited Disney a lot.

The 270ex II is really light and portable. You can keep it on your camera all the time as it's super small and not too bulky for getting on and off all the rides. It's a great little fill flash, and would do an o.k. job with a 2.8 lens. The high speed synch has to be enabled through an in camera menu so that's a little bit fiddly. Also, it blast short bursts of light in stead of infra red to achieve focus in the dark. It's annoying. That feature can be disabled in camera but then you have no focus assit in the dark.

The 430ex II is probably the sweet spot between size and functionality. It has more bounce options, stronger power to overcome the noon day sun, easier access to control flash features like high speed synch. If you've got little girls and are planning to do a lot of portrait with the princess characters, then this is your flash. it also has a proper IR beam to help you achieve focus in the dark.

If was going today I would probably bring te 270 ex II to Disney because I have lots of good Disney shots and Disney is more fun when you pack light. If it was my first time though, I'd bring the 430 II with a stophen so I did not miss any moments.

Lastly - if your not on the 5dc and shoot a lot of video - you may want to check out 320ex for the video light. I've not experience with this flash.

Hope this helps,

Ian.

Thanks.

Thats where im stuck disney with 270 that is lighter and can stay on the camera longer or 430 that might help for bibbity and noon character greetings. Have a lot of great shots but this is my first full frame trip so don't want to regret it. If I get the 270 will probably grab the 40mm for a light day here and there. Also it will be the 4th of july so hot and not sure if too much gear will be too heavy. I am bringing a lowe pro 350aw but was going to try and find something smaller to alternate days.

Mantanuska · May 10, 2013

Yeah, my 40mm also has a really tight mount

Drizzt321 · May 10, 2013

CarlTN said:
Haha, such a cute picture an anectdote!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hornet

That is what stung me 3 times in the stomach, back when I was a teenager.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellow_jacket

That is what has stung me all over my body when I was like 3, then twice on the head when I was about 8, then numerous other times throughout my youth and adulthood. They especially don't like it if you are mowing anywhere near their nest, a hole in the ground.

I thank God that I have never been bitten by a poisonous snake. I've heard horror stories about anti-venom costing $40,000...so the guy had to go on without it. He said his arm swells up huge once a year! Was a Copperhead...I almost stepped on a baby one once...but I had thick mud boots on. Might not have helped! Beware of wide, triangle shaped heads and thick bodies...It's always a relief to see the non-venomous snakes around.

Oh yea, yellow jackets are NASTY. Probably stung at least 3 or 4 times when I was a kid, maybe more. Once I accidentally stepped on some ground wasp (not sure if yellow jackets or not) nest and got stung 7 or 8 times all up my leg. Wasps don't wait for you to bother them. Just by existing you bother them, and they will mess you up.

Some profanity, but otherwise SFW http://static.fjcdn.com/pictures/Wasp_e45706_742760.jpg

Archangel72 · May 10, 2013

Thanks Click

LOALTD · May 10, 2013

Hector1970 said:
I have both lens but rarely use the 40mm. That's because I love the 50mm 1.4. It often gets a bad wrap here but I just love the photos I get with it. Maybe I have a good copy (or good +\- tolerance matching with the camera). The 40mm is good but lacks a specialness. I like shallow depth of field. STM is not of much use without a body that can use it. My lens collection has grown but the 50mm always comes along.

Amen to that, 90% of my photos are shot with the 50/1.4

It’s odd that it get such a bad rap on here…it’s nearly 5X cheaper than the 24-70 II (which is worshipped) and it’s just as sharp if not sharper, and can give you two more stops of light when you need it.

I wish it had IS though ;D

bholliman · May 10, 2013

The Canon EF-S 10-22mm is a great UWA lens option for a crop sensor camera. I do not currently own one (sold it last year), but did when my 7D was my primary camera.

When I only shot APS-C, I used my 15-85 95% of the time and a EF-S 55-250mm and EF-S 10-22mm the other 5%.

gferdinandsen · May 10, 2013

RGF said:
You pay shipping back - so for a 600 F4 that will be a chunk of change.

Ironically you mentioned one of the two lenses I am trying out. Whilst I certainly don't ever see the day when I 'need', much less can afford, the 600 f/4, I do think it's a possibilityt hat after trying out the 17 TS-E I may decide that I do need it.

So am I to understand from you post that I can evealuate two of the same bodies at the same time?

RomainF · May 10, 2013

I've had the Phottix one for nearly a year and a half . I've shot about 70.000 times (press photographer) with it.
I've paid it approximately 75$ (when the Canon could be found circa200$ at this time). And well...it's cheaper, really cheaper than the genuine Canon and...you know it when you hold it in your hands.

70.000 shots after, all the writings (AF-ON ; * ; AF selector) have disappeared and the "leatherette" grinds all around the corners. It starts to come off the grip where i usually put my index finger.
But the worse is that the trigger dies a bit more avery day. It's becoming harder and harder to work with the grip cause i have to press it real strong to shoot.

Well. Just my 2 cents.
It really depends on what you're gonna do with your camera. If you don't shoot a lot, mainly your family and landscapes, it's gonna be fine for shure. But if you use it ardently, with a quite violent background, get the Canon one.

hiplnsdrftr · May 10, 2013

I am a professional photographer who loves small P&S cameras, my favorite being the Contax T3.

I have used multiple Canon S70, G9, G10 and S95 to shoot catalogs, magazine covers and a huge portion of my personal projects.

While I was able to make good images using these small cameras and I in fact earned thousands and thousands if not tens of thousands of dollars using these P&S cameras, at this point in time I wish I had been able to use a compact camera with a bigger sensor. The P&S images simply lack dynamic range, high ISO capability and there is essentially no control over DOF.

Even the MFT sensor in my Panasonic GF1leaves me wanting for more.

In terms of ISO, I never shot the S70 or G9 above the base ISO as anything above that looked horrible. The S95 I allow to creep a little higher. Even the GF1 above 800 is terrible. I say this despite the fact that I love these cameras.

While I do have an iPhone 5 I do not consider it to be a serious camera under any circumstances other than an emergency. That said I use it's camera daily, specially for images I plan on emailing or using on Instagram.

At this point in time I believe the Nikon A is the best camera for my needs (large sensor, flash, wide angle lens... as I don't care about zooms, flip screens or viewfinders).

If Canon releases a simple, straightforward APS version of something like an S110 without purposely crippling it in fear of it's dSLR sales it would hopefully be a very tempting camera.

risc32 · May 10, 2013

but for the high price, I'd rather have the sigma. I'm sure they are both more than sharp enough, with the nod going to the sigma if you really want to split hairs, but i'd be more interested in it over the canon simply due to the IS. 180mm + macro focusing distances = handholding problems, for me anyway. plus for macro stuff i don't use AF, so i don't care about any potential sigma AF gremlins.

May 10, 2013

Update the firmware because a lot of errors reported in the first days are fixed after only a year. Great job Canon.

But why Canon don´t improve the JPG- and video quality? It´s a shame.

Bolt · May 10, 2013

This is why we all need a Pentax K5. Still the best made camera [in terms of build quality] in my honest opinion.

Chewngum · May 9, 2013

dwterry said:
I just have to comment. I swear I have NOT found the "perfect" system yet. Each one comes so close ... and then misses it.

I jumped on the RadioPopper bandwagon when they first came out. I used the PW TT5 system for several years. And about 6 months ago switched to the Canon 600s with with the ST-E3 remote.

My very most favorite thing about the PW was the AC3 Zone controller. With REAL/PHYSICAL switches and dials I could adjust settings without even looking at it. A bride could be walking down the aisle and I would have one set of lights flashing, then as she passed me I could switch to a different set of lights by quickly turning one switch off and another on. I barely had to take the camera away from my face long enough to flip the switches and then resume.

The downside to TT5 is the stupid RF interference with the Canon 580EXII flashes. I had 5 of those, all with socks on them and still had issues of flashes sometimes being too far to fire reliably (at just 20-30 feet!).

I love the reliability of the Canon 600s. I love that I have 5 groups to play with. I love that it works essentially the same way as the AC3 Zone Controller (being able to turn individual lights on or off, ettl or manual, etc).

What I _hate_ is that there are far too many button presses and dial turns to accomplish a single task.

Turn a light off:
AC3: flip a switch (often without even looking)
ST-E3: put remote down below me where I can see it (old eyes aren't helping), push a button, rotate dial to appropriate group, toggle off

Change the power setting is the same:
AC3: return a dial (often without even looking)
ST-E3: put remote down below me where I can see it, push a button, rotate dial to appropriate group, push a button, rotate dial to desired power level

Too many button presses and dial turns - all of which require that I watch the screen while I'm doing it because all of the buttons are "context sensitive" (meaning they change what they do based on what is on screen at the time).

I would PAY EXTRA MONEY to get a remote that let me control my lights with physical buttons and dials like the AC3 Zone Controller.

Please pass the word along to Canon.

Try out the Yongnuo YN622C then. I have 5 transceivers and after putting complete faith in them for a number of jobs they've never let me down. I haven't tested beyond 30m but have mixed and matched the flashes between the 550Ex, 580EX, 580EXII and 600EX with no change. They have physical buttons, Hotshoe passthrough, AF assist beam, batteries last a lonng time, they are reliable, HSS is not problem, can be controlled entirely in camera if you want, etc etc. You could put the flashes down the aisle and press the group button by touch to change the channel as the bride moves. These things are absolutely fantastic. You can customise lots of functions too like remote flash zoom, mixing of ETTL and manual metering, PC Sync port built in and link lights blink on metering start. The RT system is amazing but very expensive and still limited more than the YN622C. I thoroughly recommended anyone doing remote ETTL to research and buys these....you won't look regret it!

jrista · May 9, 2013

Canon Rumors said:
Shooting assist functions suitable for tilt lens

Rotate display grid lines

The angle information of the tilt lens to determine the angle of the grid lines

To align in the direction of change of focus, the angle of the grating lines, easy to compose the picture

Now that sounds AWESOME. Can't wait for this!

jrista · May 9, 2013

Canon-F1 said:
so much about what a CR2 rating is worth. :

Hmm...only CR3 means "just about fact". A CR2 rumor only means it was a relatively good rumor from a known source. Good rumors are still just rumors. A CR1 means a "take it with a big doze of salt, came from a new/unknown source" type rumor, which are more likely to be wrong than a CR2. Neither CR2 nor CR1 should ever be taken as "This most likely WILL happen"...that honor is only reserved for CR3.

If this had been a CR3, then we would have had to seriously question the rating system, but seeing as it was a CR2, well...it WAS A RUMOR!

TWI by Dustin Abbott · May 9, 2013

jimjamesjimmy said:
TWI by Dustin Abbott said:

I have shot enough in Arizona, USA and Southern Israel (similar harsh light during midday and dust in the air) to know that if you don't shoot at the right times of day, you WILL get harsh, flat images. Filters help, but it's a battle, even in post processing.

That dust in the air becomes a major advantage in the morning and particularly in the evening, however, producing amazing sunsets unrivaled in other environments. It's difficult when you can't control the time of day you shoot, because I think you will find that the really stunning pictures of the pyramids were almost certainly not taken at the time of day that you were shooting.

Click to expand...

its interesting doing a quick search on google of pyramid images, most are pretty average, and alot have what ibelieve to be skys added into them in post processing.

I wouldn't be surprised if that is in fact the case.

MichaelHodges · May 9, 2013

Albi86 said:
There's a 400/5.6 prime too, and they probably wouldn't cannibalize it.

Why would it matter if they still buy a Canon lens in the end?

------------------

http://michaelhodgesfiction.com/

LOALTD · May 9, 2013

I know I’m in the minority, but I find the dual memory slots to usually be more hassle than they are worth.

The ONE THING that would make them useful to me, is the ability to segregate stills and video to different cards. It seems like a simple firmware update could do this? Even the old D7000 has this functionality.

Can the Mk III do this and I’m just not able to find it? Seems like a really silly omission.

rihanishtiaq · May 9, 2013

Yes! you are totally right. I use a UV filter..
Thanks for the info.. next time i will get rid of it when shooting into the sun

Brendon · May 9, 2013

IMG_3118 by Raraigh Photography, on Flickr

IMG_3146 by Raraigh Photography, on Flickr

IMG_3475_6_4_HDR by Raraigh Photography, on Flickr

IMG_3578_79_80 by Raraigh Photography, on Flickr

bvukich · May 9, 2013

omar said:
@neuroanatomist that is awesome
not sure why i didn't find myself

problem: canon original, i am getting a best price of £110. non canon, i can get for £9
which one do i go for? what would u recommend?

thanks

I've looked at 3rd party ones, and have yet to find one with even remotely favorable reviews. I'm all in favor of 3rd party for small accessories that Canon usually charges a ton for, but this is one where I haven't found a suitable replacement for OEM.

moocowe · May 9, 2013

dumdumkc said:
1, The focus dots will suddenly blink in red with out touching any button. Just like you are moving the camera around and suddenly it will blink with no reason. (I am on auto focus mode) happens once a while.

This was annoying me too, until I realised the focus points blink when the camera changes orientation if you have it set up to use different points for portrait and landscape.

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