Cheap fisheye for canon full frame?

bornshooter said:
ChilledXpress said:
Love the Sigma 15mm DG EX rect. fisheye.... all on 5D3s and produces a 180 diagonal FOV. I'm an admitted fisheye addict ;) I bought a new one for 550$US and a used one for UW work for 350$US both are quite sharp and did better than the 8-15L @ 15mm.
fantastic shots just what im looking for :)

Thanks, hope it helps...
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Taking the next step

pensive tomato said:
I know you're asking about lenses, but how are you doing about lighting? You mentioned your 580exii, but portraiture is one that usually calls for more complex set-ups. We all know pictures are made or break by their light.

TL;DR summary: Lots of options, depends on your style and what you want to prioritize.

I agree with this. I'd say at least one more speedlite to be used off-camera would be huge. That probably also means getting a light stand, umbrella, some flash gels... the works. At least for formals.

As far as lenses go, a 100L is good for ring shots and other details. Other than that, while it does make a very nice portrait lens, it won't do anything your 70-200 won't (although it will be a bit sharper). The 135 is bokehlicious for portraits, and some other fast primes (even without spending on L lenses, like 50 1.4 or the sigma 30 1.4) could be useful for low-light situations.
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How much would you pay?

distant.star said:
.
If I saw the Canon bigwig stranded outside my house in a blizzard, I'd shelter him for only $50,000 per day. I'm sure he would understand and agree with my pricing.

He would have to pay more to use my photo equipment while he was here, and anytime I took a picture he would be required to remove my lens cap and hold it.

Hahahahahahah. Funny...!!
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Focal Plus vs Pro? Which do you recommend?

Ripley said:
neuroanatomist said:
Ripley said:
My AFMA test results differ between wide open and stopped down to the sharpest aperture, why?

Possibly focus shift (with some lenses, stopping down shifts the focal plane).

Expounding on our discussion, here is what Reikan has to say on page 127 of "FoCal for Windows version 1.8.1"

23.3.3 Test Aperture
...It is generally suggested that the best aperture for an AF microadjustment calibration test is with the lens open widest – this will give the shallowest depth of field and the biggest difference in analysis results for each test point.

However, under some situations, the analysis may not work optimally at widest aperture – particularly with lenses that are very soft or exhibit strong aberrations at widest aperture.

If this setting is changed, it is best to run as close to wide open as possible.


Testing at the sharpest aperture is not best practice, nor does testing wide open always yield optimal results (presumably mostly with fast primes, like the 50L you mentioned).
[/quote

Just to be clear, altering that setting is NOT changing the aperture at which the autofocus step is performed. It's changing the aperture used to capture the images for analysis. So, in the case of the 50L for example, running the test wide open would give accurate results for shooting wide open. Testing at f/2 would give a different result (at a given distance fairly close to the camera), applicable to shooting at f/2 at that distance. Also, the deeper DoF with a narrower aperture masks misfocused shots, making the analysis more challenging for the software (flat curve, hard to find the peak).
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AF "Cases" for use with Dance Photography

I shoot figure skating with a 5D3 and a 70-200 f2.8L II. There's a lot of erratic motion with change of direction and varying speeds. Sometimes there's a single skater, sometimes several. Case 5 is supposed to be for sports like skating, but I find that Case 2 is more effective, especially if there are several skaters and I trying to get shots of one in particular. Case 2 is better at staying locked on the skater when others get in the way.

I also shoot single point with 9 point expansion and AI Servo. When using expansion with Case 2, the key is to lock on your subject with the center focus point. The surrounding expansion points will then help stay locked if the center point moves off the subject.
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Stuck on whether to return sigma 35mm for 35mm 1.4L or 35f2 is

NerdblurbSteve said:
If you don't mind carrying two lenses, consider getting the 35mm and the canon 70-200mm f/4 IS. Its not too heavy to carry both and you wont miss the coverage from 35mm-70mm. However, with both lenses in your pack, you're good to go for almost anything unless you need a really wide angle.

Those two lenses are basically my default kit and I love it. Excellent image quality from both and a much better pairing then relying on the 24-105 by itself.
Interesting, I actually shot a couple weddings recently with this setup except instead of the f/4 version it was the 2.8 IS L. I'm going to rent the 24-70 II for my next wedding to see if I like it but if it's not much better I'll probably end up buying the sigma.
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Transmission tower

Hey guys, sorry for my very late reaction ! :-[

I'm from Amsterdam, The Netherlands. There's no law that forbids you to take these photo's. Except from towers that are put on private property, in that case you could be arrested for trespassing.

Now the funny thing is, these towers are located at the fields of some farmers (private property), but I was standing between the 2 farms on a bycicle path...so that's a public road, nothing to be afraid of luckily.

Regarding safety, nowadays there still people having their houses below a 220/380KV tower, but the goverment is offering them money to move or buy another house..so thats good news.

Thanks for all the compliments guys !
Cheers !
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Handicam, lens or other?

Thanks again Paul! Unfortunately the commercial itself isn't cycling (although now you've given me some ideas, commercial #2 may have to be)--cycling is one of the primary things I shoot with stills. ;-) Sorry for the confusion.

This effort is going to be indoor sports. Would I be wrong in guessing that putting the athlete on a whiteboard under a "big soft light" (does a 30"x60" softbox fit this requirement?) has value here that's not just for cycling?
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Canon 16-35mm L IS USM - Need ND Filters, recommendations ? Question

I appreciate it,
I already tried a cokin filter system but to be honest , for me at least ,it's a pain in the a** to carry/use it, that's why my attention is back to basics (screw on filters).Don't want to hear about additional frames attached to the lens or and any other unhandy accesories if it is possible of course :D

Technically I try to find the best solution for the 16-35 II 82mm thread in order to shot videos on a FF at 24fps, wide open aperture (f1.4-2.8 max 4), 1/50 , ISO 100/160 in daylight without having overexposure, uneven polarization or vignette.

Btw: you can also build a vari-nd filter from two polarizers (cpl + non-cpl) which is exactly is what a composite nd filter really is, just in the home-made version you can still use the polarizers alone and you have the option to adjust the rear cpl for a polarizer effect which is not possible with a ready-made vari nd. I wouldn't use any vari-nd for uwa though.

I think I'll try this at the end , already have the slim CPL.
thanks,
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85 1.2mk3 anytime soon?

EF 85 1.2 MK II is already an awesome lens, than why should canon replace this one with mk iii so soon. There should be a reason to update the lens. Some people saying it is a slow focus lens, yes it is bit slow compared to other L glass but there is reason behind it : 1. it is 1.2 lens, at 85 mm with f1.2 depth of field is so shallow, to get the best accuracy for focus canon made it bit slow. 2. this lens have lot of glass inside and whole front optics move to focus the lens that is why this lens focus by wired to provide enough power to move the whole big chunk of glass. apart from bit slow focus this is an awesome lens and keep in mind this is a portrait lens and portrait lens does required to be very fast. Thats why too many other lenses are available to capture fast subjects. If you need best picture quality form a portrait lens go for it, you won't be disappointing.

EOS 1DX, EOS M with EF 35 1.4 L, EF 40 2.8, EF 50 1.4, EF 85 1.2 II L, EF 100 2.8 L IS, EF 135 2 L, EF 300 4 L IS, EF 24-70 2.8 II L, EF 70-200 2.8 II L IS, EF 2x III, EF 25mm, EF-M 18-55 IS, EF-M 22, 600 EX -RT, 270 EX II, EX 90
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canon 5d mk3 what lens ?

I got the 5D3 kit and never really fell in love with the 24-105. It was never good enough. However, over the last 9 months i've also picked up the Sigma 35mm 1.4 and Canon 70-200mm F/4 IS and love them both. So where i once thought the 24-105 would be my go-to kit, I pretty much never leave home without the 35mm and 70-200.

I've tried a few times to use the 24-105 only, but i'm always left wishing i would have brought the other lenses for their superior image quality and reach/aperture. Its come to the point where i'm seriously considering selling my 24-105 because it literally has left the house twice in 2013. If i hadn't invested in some expensive 77mm filters when I first got it, it would have been up on eBay already.

With the 35mm and 70-200mm f/4, I really fell like i can shout about 95% of what i want to shoot. For that last 5% i'm trying to decide on a wider lens for lanscapes or a macro lens. I'm interested in both, but don't shoot either all that often.
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First photos with the EOS Kiss X7 (aka Rebel SL1 / 100D)

Hehe, well said!

unfocused said:
Roger Jones said:
A lot of shots seem to have a bluish cast. i'm much more impressed with the output of the nikon 3200 which is > $200 cheaper than the SL1

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nikonfrance/sets/72157629851394125/

Yeah, let's compare a handful of shots taking by iraikov and his girlfriend while they were walking around town learning the new camera, to a bunch of shots that Nikon France contracted with professionals to produce. No doubt culled from thousands that were taken and post-processed by folks who do that sort of thing for a living.
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