Posts

sunnyVan · May 9, 2013

Maybe I'll wait for the holidays then. I'm trying to get my hands on the 135L. Checked Canon refurbished but always out of stock. Don't really like buy used even though I haven't had any unpleasant experience so far.

Quasimodo · May 9, 2013

Thanks for the link. Interesting interview and cool video, no matter if he uses a Canon camera for his job or not

jaayres20 · May 9, 2013

Northstar said:
jaayres20 said:

Things have really changed since I started this post a few months ago. I was very frustrated at the time and not I couldn't be more satisfied. I just used both of my 5D3s at a wedding last Saturday and they both have the firmware update. I shot 2,700 pictures with at least 1000 being in a very dark fast moving reception and I nailed just about every shot I took. There is a huge difference in the focus speed with the AF assist beam now. It once caused the focus to slow way down and now it speeds it up drastically. My 50mm 1.2 used to say in my bag because it would simply not focus in the dark. I used the heck out of it and shot at 1.2 most of the time with most being keepers. When I use the 24-70 f/2.8L II, I feel like I am cheating because it focuses on whatever I want instantly. I am very happy!

Click to expand...

good to hear....i haven't done the update yet and have been waiting to see if anybody was having problems after updating....sounds like you're saying "go ahead and update" right?

I would update immediately. Especially if you use the AF assist beam at all.

siabod · May 9, 2013

Some months have passed but I purchased my 5D Mk111 in March 2013 and have experienced the same problem as the original poster, takes a few shots then freezes as though it does not recognize the lens, focus away from the subject (takes 3 - 6 attempts) then works for a short while.

Quasimodo · May 9, 2013

distant.star said:
dilbert said:

lholmes549 said:

dilbert said:

Anyone could have taken those photographs as there is nothing special about them.

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Really constructive criticism(!)

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If you want to make your photos stand out, there needs to be something special about them, be it style, composition, post, etc.

I suppose dawn/dusk/night photos that are long exposure is a phase that photographers go through.

So my advice is go take a bunch more long exposure night time photos and get it out of your system.

Click to expand...

Perhaps true, but then civility is a phase most adult humans eventually grow into. Stay on the path, and eventually you get there.

+ 100

atosk930 · May 9, 2013

Calling for help from the Aussies of CR.

If you plan on photographing the eclipse, please post some images you capture. Looks like the majority of the globe won't be able to experience it. Posted two links below that might help anyone with timing.

http://www.space.com/21016-australia-two-solar-eclipses-six-months.html

http://news.cnet.com/8301-11386_3-57583608-76/fiery-annular-solar-eclipse-to-be-broadcast-live-on-internet/

PS: Please take caution when shooting into the sun.

Harry Muff · May 9, 2013

Hasn't there been a tear down yet of the two cameras? ifixit are famed for stripping down every new gadget, why don't they give it a go?

funkboy · May 9, 2013

http://www.theverge.com/2013/5/8/4311868/the-illusion-of-simplicity-photographer-peter-belanger-on-shooting

Great article.

All I need to say is

.

dslrdummy · May 9, 2013

eml58 said:
I use both, Lexar Professional 1000x (128GB) & Sandisk 100MB/s (128 GB) in my 1Dx & 5DMK3.

You will find the Lexar Pro range 1000x read/write @ 150MB/s in 128/64 & 32 Ranges, compared to the San Disk Extreme Pro where the 128GB cards operate @ 100MB/s & the 64 & 32 operate @ 90MB/s.

In practise I cant say I notice the difference, I shoot wildlife, frequently @ 12FPS on the 1Dx, and having taken 10 to 15 shots & 12FPS I haven't found the buffer an issue with the Lexar Cards.

The Lexar Cards are more expensive by quite a bit compared to the SanDisk, I use the Lexar 128GB 1000x as the primary card, and the SanDisk 128GB card as the second card on the 1Dx, and on the 5DMK3 the CF Card is 128GB Lexar 1000x and the SD card is SanDisk 64GB 90 MB/s.

I did find when i recently switched to the Lexar Cards & purchased 4 128GB Cards (2 x 1Dx & 2 5DMK3 bodies), that I had to return for replacement one of the Lexar Cards, it was a Dud, have never had that problem with SaDisk, but both the Lexar & SanDisk Cards work just fine.

Excuse my ignorance, but when you refer to primary/secondary cards, do you mean you only use the secondary when/if the primary card is full or write Raw to one and jpeg to the other? I had assumed that when shooting anything in fast continuous such as wildlife the write rate is important so you wouldn't want to slow things down by writing to both cards. Thanks in advance.

alexturton · May 9, 2013

I'm going to an owl flying display next week with my 5d3 and 70-200 2.8 ii.
They will be reasonably close so I don't need anything longer than 200mm.

I need some help/advice on what settings to use, particularly the af settings.

It will be under tree cover with mixed lighting so raw Is a must. I was thinking keep the aperture between 2.8 and 5.6 and aim for a shutter of around 1/1000 to freeze them in flight.

The owls will be flying side to side and straight at me.

Any ideas for the af settings or anything else I should consider?

Thanks in advance.

Dylan777 · May 9, 2013

@ OP -- where is Canon RX1?

Simba · May 8, 2013

TWI by Dustin Abbott said:
bereninga said:

I wonder what the nominees were. I'm surprised the 6D topped the 5DIII and D800.

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I think they fell in the previous year. MKIII received best Video DSLR and D800 received best expert DSLR

This kind of award is like Car of the Year in Motor Trend or Car and Driver magazine, which is granted for new year model only. Basically each company takes turn to win.

bycostello · May 8, 2013

great images

bycostello · May 8, 2013

great images

photo212 · May 8, 2013

Seems the delete function does one card, and depending on your setting, the data from the other card can automatically be copied to the blank card. Frustrating if you do not realize that is happening.

Formatting the cards gives you the choice of which card to format. You'll have to do it on both cards AFAIK

May 8, 2013

Yes, this had already entered my mind. I had decided on a Gitzo a while back--it has been in my wish list for a while. But thanks to reading YOUR posts NEURO, and others posts about tripods i have been also thinking about the RRS. You're definitely correct about it being the last one i will purchase. I blame you for putting me in a quandary

. And thanks for keeping me from making a rash decision. I have a while before the sale ends. :-\

neuroanatomist said:
yogi said:

I have been trying to decide between Gitzo or RRS tripods. This might influence my decision.

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If you buy either, it's quite possibly the last tripod you'll ever buy. Even if you only keep it 3 years (and I'd say that's really unlikely!), that $150 works out to less than a Starbucks mocha per month. So I'd say pick the tripod you really want, without consideration for the rebate. OTOH, if you've already decided on a Gitzo, now's the time to buy!

lenstrack26 · May 8, 2013

Hi Expatinasia,
Good question. I'm referring to landscapes in which I'm shooting a lot of bracketed images for HDRs. I feel a tripod is mandatory. (For example a shaded waterfall with a brilliant sky). On a single hike, I can encounter subjects that require a telephoto (100-400 mm), or midrange (24-105 mm) or extreme wide angle (14 mm). I could probably hand-hold these lenses if it were not for the need for bracketing. Even without a tripod, carrying multiple bodies (in a convenient and comfortable and secure system) would make life easier!

May 8, 2013

bornshooter said:
ChilledXpress said:

Love the Sigma 15mm DG EX rect. fisheye.... all on 5D3s and produces a 180 diagonal FOV. I'm an admitted fisheye addict I bought a new one for 550$US and a used one for UW work for 350$US both are quite sharp and did better than the 8-15L @ 15mm.

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fantastic shots just what im looking for

Thanks, hope it helps...

bseitz234 · May 8, 2013

pensive tomato said:
I know you're asking about lenses, but how are you doing about lighting? You mentioned your 580exii, but portraiture is one that usually calls for more complex set-ups. We all know pictures are made or break by their light.

TL;DR summary: Lots of options, depends on your style and what you want to prioritize.

I agree with this. I'd say at least one more speedlite to be used off-camera would be huge. That probably also means getting a light stand, umbrella, some flash gels... the works. At least for formals.

As far as lenses go, a 100L is good for ring shots and other details. Other than that, while it does make a very nice portrait lens, it won't do anything your 70-200 won't (although it will be a bit sharper). The 135 is bokehlicious for portraits, and some other fast primes (even without spending on L lenses, like 50 1.4 or the sigma 30 1.4) could be useful for low-light situations.

Ivan Muller · May 8, 2013

Thanks Sanji...I just have this stuff lying around here and a new camera is always somewhat exciting to have and that helps!

sanj · May 8, 2013

distant.star said:
.
If I saw the Canon bigwig stranded outside my house in a blizzard, I'd shelter him for only $50,000 per day. I'm sure he would understand and agree with my pricing.

He would have to pay more to use my photo equipment while he was here, and anytime I took a picture he would be required to remove my lens cap and hold it.

Hahahahahahah. Funny...!!

pdirestajr · May 7, 2013

I picked up and played with the new SL1 today, that camera is super sweet- no joke! I'm waiting for it to drop in price a bit, then I think I may grab it as my "small" camera.

May 7, 2013

Ripley said:
neuroanatomist said:

Ripley said:

My AFMA test results differ between wide open and stopped down to the sharpest aperture, why?

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Possibly focus shift (with some lenses, stopping down shifts the focal plane).

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Expounding on our discussion, here is what Reikan has to say on page 127 of "FoCal for Windows version 1.8.1"

23.3.3 Test Aperture
...It is generally suggested that the best aperture for an AF microadjustment calibration test is with the lens open widest – this will give the shallowest depth of field and the biggest difference in analysis results for each test point.

However, under some situations, the analysis may not work optimally at widest aperture – particularly with lenses that are very soft or exhibit strong aberrations at widest aperture.

If this setting is changed, it is best to run as close to wide open as possible.

Testing at the sharpest aperture is not best practice, nor does testing wide open always yield optimal results (presumably mostly with fast primes, like the 50L you mentioned).
[/quote

Just to be clear, altering that setting is NOT changing the aperture at which the autofocus step is performed. It's changing the aperture used to capture the images for analysis. So, in the case of the 50L for example, running the test wide open would give accurate results for shooting wide open. Testing at f/2 would give a different result (at a given distance fairly close to the camera), applicable to shooting at f/2 at that distance. Also, the deeper DoF with a narrower aperture masks misfocused shots, making the analysis more challenging for the software (flat curve, hard to find the peak).

FTb-n · May 7, 2013

I shoot figure skating with a 5D3 and a 70-200 f2.8L II. There's a lot of erratic motion with change of direction and varying speeds. Sometimes there's a single skater, sometimes several. Case 5 is supposed to be for sports like skating, but I find that Case 2 is more effective, especially if there are several skaters and I trying to get shots of one in particular. Case 2 is better at staying locked on the skater when others get in the way.

I also shoot single point with 9 point expansion and AI Servo. When using expansion with Case 2, the key is to lock on your subject with the center focus point. The surrounding expansion points will then help stay locked if the center point moves off the subject.

brianleighty · May 7, 2013

NerdblurbSteve said:
If you don't mind carrying two lenses, consider getting the 35mm and the canon 70-200mm f/4 IS. Its not too heavy to carry both and you wont miss the coverage from 35mm-70mm. However, with both lenses in your pack, you're good to go for almost anything unless you need a really wide angle.

Those two lenses are basically my default kit and I love it. Excellent image quality from both and a much better pairing then relying on the 24-105 by itself.

Interesting, I actually shot a couple weddings recently with this setup except instead of the f/4 version it was the 2.8 IS L. I'm going to rent the 24-70 II for my next wedding to see if I like it but if it's not much better I'll probably end up buying the sigma.

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