Torn on low light sports lens 85/135 RF
- By rachskis801
- Lenses
- 25 Replies
Bhphotovideo.com has an open box one for sale right now
Upvote
0
Bhphotovideo.com has an open box one for sale right now
ExactlyThe main drawback is you'll get more distortion with 35-350L, but the used price on it and the 1D iv are so low, that if it doesn't work out and you want to resell it, I don't imagine you'd lose much money.
I've started to take the brick stories with a grain of salt though. I mean I saw one poster here upset that he had to format his card in order to get the firmware update to read properly. While I believe bricking cameras is definitely a thing, I also think there could be more to each story in terms of people following Canon's instructions precisely.Not defending Canon here, but I wonder how they compare with Sony, Nikon and Panasonic regarding "technical oversights". It's a very competitive market, where goods have to be rushed out and are increasingly complex, so I'd imagine that the other brands have similar issues.
Sorry, I think I honed in on the possible time code issue after some Googling. However, Netflix gives some guidance. But it seems you may need an approved camera to serve as the primary. https://partnerhelp.netflixstudios....d-Cameras-Recommended-Settings-Best-PracticesCurious as to how the R5C is Netflix approved but the C200 is not. Anyone care to fill me in, and if so much appreciated!
I bought about half my lenses used. Even of my current outfit, I think only the 100-500 and 135/1.8 are new, the rest are used. It's not like used EF is suddenly unavailable. The main reason I wouldn't use EF is that in most cases the RF glass seems to bury it quality-wise. My 135/2 was the sharpest black Canon lens except maybe the 180/3.5, and possibly the 35/1.4 MkII, but the 100-500 is far sharper, as is the 100/2.8, and the 135/1.8 is massively sharper.EF lenses used the fill the middle until most were discontinued.
Sorry. It means they might be unbiased. They may also be completely unbiased.Reviewers make money through affiliate link purchases. Positive reviews benefit them. That doesn’t necessarily mean they’re dishonest, but it does mean they’re not unbiased.
It was 6 years ago, visiting Sabah. I had a 5DIV + EF 400mm f/4 DO II + extenders, my wife a 5DSR + EF 100-400mm II. I don't recall paying camera fees then. The only thing that worried me was keeping the weight of the hand luggage for the plane within limits as we were told the cheaper internal flights would weigh the cases. If we were to go again, I would take the R5 and 100-500mm and my wife the R7 and RF 100-400mm for birding and also for bugs. We paid for an excellent local bird guide who arranged it all for us.Hi Alan,
Digging up an old thread here. I am planning a trip to Borneo. What did you take? What camera fees did you have to pay? The rules seem a bit weird to me.
I was thinking of taking my r5, 100-500, 70-200 f2.8 and 15-35. I was thinking about leaving the 24-70 at home and am up in the air about my 100mm macro.
I am interested in wildlife, landscapes and bugs. Any tips?
H-Jones! Can you please explain, step by step, just how to achieve allocation of the C1 customised shooting mode to the Multi-Function button? I have been trying to do this, and failure to achieve it is driving me MAD. (With my old 7D and 400mm telephoto is was able to toggle the mode dial until it stopped - because it could go no further. This could be done without taking my eye off the bird/birds that suddenly, as they often do, provide an opportunity for a shot/shots - if you're fast enough. The 7D enabled my BIF settings to be acquired without taking my eyes off it/them as the camera came up to a shooting position. an't do that - yet - with the R5.....) When I get to the customize buttons, in a bid to set the MF button for that purpose, I get a message at the bottom of the screen that registering for C1-C3 not doable. Please, what am I doing wrong?Professionally I'm a photojournalist that primarily covers breaking news, but I also do a lot of landscape and wildlife photography in my free time for fun. Most of my custom control choices come from what I need the camera to do on a work assignment since I really don't have time to dig in a menu.
Custom Buttons
Custom Dials
- Shutter button: Default, Metering and AF start
- Video button: Default, video start
- Mode button: Default, mode
- AF-ON: AF-off, I've always done this, I know people like back-button focus, but I photograph a lot of sudden, unexpected action at breaking news and I like knowing that the shutter is always linked to autofocusing, so that I don't end up hitting the shutter before focusing. Instead of back-button focus, I use the AF-ON button to turn off focus for times when I need a similar autofocus stop that you'd get using backbutton focus on a shot.
- AE Lock: Cropping/aspect ratio, I love that this makes it as easy as pressing a button to get the 17 megapixel 1.6x digital teleconverter mode. I've loved using the crop mode on wildlife so far, and setting it to a button makes it easier to switch in a second if the subject gets closer. Lot easier than digging through a menu.
- AF point button: Drive mode, with the different restrictions on FPS and bit-rate in drive modes in the R5 I find myself changing the drive more often, so I wanted a button dedicated to that.
- DOF preview button: One-Shot / Servo AF, I've always had this set like this on all of my Canon cameras. There's just certain situations where you want the confirmation of knowing your focus is locked, and this is a lot quicker for sudden situations where servo focus won't work. Normally, on other cameras, I have it only use one-shot when it's held down, but the R5 doesn't offer the condition that it only switches when the button is held, unfortunately. That just means I have to remember to click it twice to get back to Servo focus.
- Lens: Default, AF stop
- My favorite: M-FN Button: Switch to Custom Shooting Mode, set to C1 only, other C modes turned off. C1: Shutter Priority, 1/1000th, 12 FPS, Spot meter, auto ISO. Again photographing breaking news means things can go very badly in an instant. I like this button as my "emergency" button, all I have to do is hit M-FN and I instantly know I'll have a high enough shutter speed and automatic exposure to get an image of whatever is in front of the camera. That gives me more freedom to use slower shutter speeds when there's not much going on, knowing that in an instant I can have the camera properly exposed at 1/1000th if something blows up.
- LCD panel button: LCD illumination, I switched it to this because I never use the secondary display it offers by default, and this makes the button act more like the LCD light button on DSLRS.
- SET: ISO, hold button turn shutter, I've always done this on all of my Canon cameras, I always hated having to fish for the ISO button to change ISO, so this makes it a lot faster to do. I know the R5 has a dial just for ISO now, but I've left this button as ISO because it's stuck in my muscle memory and I find myself doing this instinctively anyway. If I get used to the dial, this might find a new use.
- Multicontroller, AF point selection
- Main dial, default, Shutter
- Top dial(Quick Control Dial 2), ISO speed
- Rear dial(Quick Control Dial 1), Aperture setting
- Lens Control Wheel: Select AF method, this has been a new favorite of mine. I love the Subject detection tracking autofocus mode on the R5, it works awesome and finds eyes/people/birds/everything very well and lets me reframe as much as I want, or lets a bird fly through the frame while being tracked. The issue is, sometimes this mode gets wonky in weird conditions, and if you change to One-Shot focus, it uses the whole sensor as an automatic detect one-shot mode. That's super annoying, I wish it was still based off of your initial focus point for one-shot. I don't have time when I'm taking a photo to change focus settings to switch to one-shot mode, so the moment I need one-shot or the tracking focus isn't working well, I can quickly hit the dial on the lens left or right and switch between the AF point focus or tracking focus. I disabled most of the AF modes except subject detection, default point, and expanded point focus, which makes it even easier to switch. I'll also add that the nice thing with the direct method is that it has "hard stops" on the left and right ends of the settings list, so if I roll the wheel left it'll always stop at AF tracking, and if I roll the wheel right it'll always stop at expanded AF point. Super intuitive to me and I love this set up a lot.
Yes of course, there are many genres of pro and amateur photographer, some will be absolutely happy with 20MP, others will want/need more. For me, 45-50MP is the sweet spot, I don't really have a need for more. As a wildlife photographer, I'd happily use a 90MP camera, but *only* if the image quality and DR was at least as good as the R5, and *only* if there was an option to shoot pixel-binned "RAW" at a lower resolution (e.g. 22.5MP with a 90MP sensor). For some work, when using the RF100-500mm or anything larger, a gripped and highly durable body like the R3 would work very well for me, for other work I prefer the more compact, un-gripped R5. It would be nice to have both.Just speaking for myself: somehow, there is this notion that all professionals want more resolution and I just have to disagree. Of the 3 current “flagships” available, I’m more satisfied that my main camera has 24mp than I am missing out on 45 megapixels. The R5 does exceptionally well as the kind of camera I want to use for high resolution situations. But wildlife and some sports photographers are absolutely the other way around and WANT the higher resolution.
That argument that the Z 9 and A1 are better cameras because of their resolution is odd to me. If Canon came out with an R1 right now with 45-80mp, I would STILL keep my R3 because I don’t want that kind of resolution all the time. Until there is a true reduced RAW file size where we can essentially downsample 45mp into something more manageable like 20-30mp with minimal trade off, I personally don’t want to use the camera as my main workhorse.
Case in point: I just went though my external SSD and was archiving the race I shot last month, as well as last months real estate listings. The race was close to 300GB, or roughly 75GB a day in CRAW. Each real estate listing was between 30-40GB after editing and compositing shot in RAW. All said and done, I cleaned off 1TB of images from last month - that’s all at 24mp. When I replaced my 1DXII with the R5 I was blowing through external storage at races! Even in CRAW, the files are still large and create a heavy burden on computers when compositing or going through so many images. I live on my M1 Pro Max computer editing almost every day of the week. I don’t want to work with high resolution images every day…it would be so slow and take up even more space.
I don’t think this Vignes guy couldn’t be more incorrect in his statement about the R3.