Do you carry around a back up? point&shoot/mirrorless/iphone?

i'd be quite interested in seeing this in the flesh :

http://www.canon.co.uk/For_Home/Product_Finder/Cameras/Digital_SLR/EOS_100D/index.aspx

in theory if you stick the 40mm pancake on it you have an almost pocketable camera - sort of G1x size ?
plus you have the advantage you can pocket any of your normal favourite lenses as well

not as sleek as a iphone
only a bit bulkier than a CSC
but you can keep all your normal lenses

could this be the future size for all the Rebel / XXXd line ;D

David
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Replacement 400d - 650d vs. 6d

rizenphoenix said:
RadioPath said:
meli said:
you could also look at the 5dmk2

The 5d ii is pretty much the same price here, unfortunately. Also, not having used either, the 6d seems to be considerably better for what I need (High-ISO), the Auto Focus migh and I personally find GPS and WiFi to be really neat features (still don't understand why Canon didn't put them in the 700D). Also: I'm used to a Rebel so I'd like the Body to be as small as reasonably archievable...
Forgot to add: Wouldn't want to buy used gear and I don't think they have Refurb stuff here.

They didn't put wifi/gps on the 700D so you will buy the 6D.

That being said the 6D is a great camera, especially in low light situation and you'd be able to take a lot of great photo's with just your 50mm. As far as weight goes, the 6D with a fifty on it feels almost rebel like in weight(but not build quality). If you can swing it though get the 24-105 at the same time because it most cases it's a substantial discount.

Who knows, might be the reason, but then again adding these features would have been significant improvements over the 650D; as it stands now, if I were to decide on a rebel again, I would pass the 700D and go for the 650D (or even 100D, as it's cheaper and looks so cute :) )

Guess I'll wait for the rebates and see if there is a way to justify the 24-105. The thing is, I'm afraid it might not be good enough when I upgrade next time (in let's say 4-6 years). Maybe better save a bit more and go for the Sigma 24-70 2.8 then? Would also give me a faster lense, although I would have to add a longer prime or a 70-200 for portraits then.

@mdmphoto: The closest thing to wild life photography I did was taking pics of my dog and a few snap shots at the zoo :) Zero interest in birding and I don't follow any sports (although a few years down the road I might if my son would get into soccer or sth.). How many stops of ISO would you say a 6D has over say a 7D or your 50D? Thanks!
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Canon L Glass is currently priced at over $1200 / pound

Re: Canon L Glass costs over $1200 / pound

motorhead said:
Mt Spokane Photography said:
One salesman at a unnamed company where I worked back in the 1970's was said to have picked a price based on the number of a railroad train car going by his window after the customer asked for a better price. He made the sale, and it was big bucks ;)

I knew an electrical engineer who priced the electrical installation in new schools by the number of toilets shown on the plans. It was a nightmare working out the schedule of rates for extras when his jobs were accepted. It did seem to work, weird as it sounds.

All proxies for something else - effort, value, size of the job.
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17-40 F4L or Wide Angle Prime?

hamada said:
obach said:
3 is wrong. Once focused, you can zoom as much as you like and it's still sharp. And sharp it is!

well as long as you only look at the center at least....

Right that is. Mid-frame is still quite okay but the corners quite suck, even when you stop down to f/8 or f/11. I sold mine and got a Samyang 14mm again, it's another world.
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Street Photography 35mm/50mm + DC?Help

Can't go wrong with the Sigma 35mm. It's an awesome lens.

If you want the smaller bodies, I would go with the X20 or X1002. The X20 looks good for what it is but it is still a large point & shoot style sensor. The X100s brings some amazing quality and low light results with a 35mm f/2 lens. They have some RAW files to download for the X100s at : http://learningcameras.com/reviews/9-other/137-fuji-x100s-review
and there are also reviews of the X20 & Sigma 35mm on that site as well

Here is a X20 video review. Looks good, especially for around $500 but not going to be comparable to what you are used to with the 5D...though the X100s looks like it will.
Fuji X20 Hands On Review
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Kit with oy primes

felix1231 said:
Hi everyone. I have a passion for photography that I want to eventually develop into a side business. For the time being I want to focus primarily on family portraits,kids, maternity and eventually weddings. I currently have a t3i but will go FF within a year or so. My question is how practical is it to have a kit with just prime lenses for that type of work. And what recommendations on specific lenses. My next purchase is a 85mm 1.8 and I'm not sure where else from there.

A little background. The reason for only wanting primes is nerve damage to my left arm that makes quick and accurate zooming and focusing difficult,especially on l lenses with narrow zoom barrels. Any suggestions would be appreciated
I have nerve damage in both hands. I've been using mostly primes, but changing a lens is difficult, and I tend to drop things, so I've bought some zooms.

Only you know if changing a lens frequently is easier on your hand than zooming. I'm left handed, so changing a lens with my right isn't easy.
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Main difference between 70-200 f/2.8 IS I and II, Non IS, and f/4 IS

I have owned the 70-200/2.8 IS mk I, and currently own the mk II version. Used at f2.8 (which you'll probably rely on a lot to get the shutter speeds needed), the difference is dramatic. As bad as the mk I is at f2.8, it is acceptable if stopped down to f4 - which begs the question, why not just get the f4 IS instead of the mk I? If used in auto or Tv, it can't open up to soft apertures, plus it's cheaper, lighter, has better IS (4 stops vs 3), and is sharper at all equivalent settings.

While IS isn't necessarily useful for action shots due to the high shutter speeds, it can come in handy for composing. Plus the moment you use the lens for slower moving subjects, or do video, IS will come in really handy.

Even though it's no match for the mk II, the non weather sealed 2.8 non IS is sharper than the mk I 2.8 IS lens.

As video is high up your list, I'd recommend stretching to the 2.8 IS II, and if you really can't afford it, the only other suitable option in my opinion is the f4 IS. If video wasn't so important, questionably the f2.8 non IS instead.
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Battery grip vertax for EOS 6D

looks like the same phottix, pixel, delamax, meike etc. etc. grip to me.. just one more name they sell it under.

i have one for my 6D and it´s nice for the price (i payed 45 euro).

but be aware the same grip sells for 45 euro from one "brand" and for 130 euro from another.


and there is an small error in this review:

LP-E6 batteries ... the 6D works correctly only with genuine Canon.

that is not correct. there are some third pary batteries that work... i know because i use them.
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which lens to keep

There you have it. Personally, you have two cameras. I think you should have two lenses at least. Personally, when I go out, I take two cameras and at least two lenses, and am ready for most things, without having to change lenses in the field. Plus, if something happens, I have a backup camera. I am nothing more than a rank amateur photographer too. Just my 2 cents.

All here gave great advice- up to you to decide what you value most and go for it.
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