Hi! Does anyone used an ND on the read filter holder of the EF 8-15? Is there anything out there with good quality for this? I like very much what I can do with my Lee Big Stopper and would love to be able to do things like that with the 8-15 too...

Thanks.

Re: Canon L Glass costs over $1200 / pound

motorhead said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

One salesman at a unnamed company where I worked back in the 1970's was said to have picked a price based on the number of a railroad train car going by his window after the customer asked for a better price. He made the sale, and it was big bucks

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I knew an electrical engineer who priced the electrical installation in new schools by the number of toilets shown on the plans. It was a nightmare working out the schedule of rates for extras when his jobs were accepted. It did seem to work, weird as it sounds.

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All proxies for something else - effort, value, size of the job.

my pocket wizard tt1 will fire on a fuji x-e1 so it might.... won't be ttl though

My E-TTL cord is from Meike - called "OC-E3". I could only easily take off the back (with the 1/4" connection), which is screwed into plastic so might break. But the shoe itself appears to be mirrored with a metal plate inside:

hamada said:

obach said:

3 is wrong. Once focused, you can zoom as much as you like and it's still sharp. And sharp it is!

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well as long as you only look at the center at least....

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Right that is. Mid-frame is still quite okay but the corners quite suck, even when you stop down to f/8 or f/11. I sold mine and got a Samyang 14mm again, it's another world.

Can't go wrong with the Sigma 35mm. It's an awesome lens.

If you want the smaller bodies, I would go with the X20 or X1002. The X20 looks good for what it is but it is still a large point & shoot style sensor. The X100s brings some amazing quality and low light results with a 35mm f/2 lens. They have some RAW files to download for the X100s at : http://learningcameras.com/reviews/9-other/137-fuji-x100s-review
and there are also reviews of the X20 & Sigma 35mm on that site as well

Here is a X20 video review. Looks good, especially for around $500 but not going to be comparable to what you are used to with the 5D...though the X100s looks like it will.
Fuji X20 Hands On Review

well... you do not need another 24-70mm mark i to test. you can use your 70-200mm to test at focal range of 70mm (prefer tripod and correct distance since both lengh are different in length). like neuro already said, "exposure would not be changed"... and i would say the same thing.

bseitz234 said:

Do you have sample images from this lens somewhere that aren't in video form? I'd love to see some 100% crops, particularly in high-CA situations, if you have any...

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On the website they have the full res files to download: http://learningcameras.com/reviews/7-lenses/131-sigma-30mm-f14-review

felix1231 said:

Hi everyone. I have a passion for photography that I want to eventually develop into a side business. For the time being I want to focus primarily on family portraits,kids, maternity and eventually weddings. I currently have a t3i but will go FF within a year or so. My question is how practical is it to have a kit with just prime lenses for that type of work. And what recommendations on specific lenses. My next purchase is a 85mm 1.8 and I'm not sure where else from there.

A little background. The reason for only wanting primes is nerve damage to my left arm that makes quick and accurate zooming and focusing difficult,especially on l lenses with narrow zoom barrels. Any suggestions would be appreciated

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I have nerve damage in both hands. I've been using mostly primes, but changing a lens is difficult, and I tend to drop things, so I've bought some zooms.

Only you know if changing a lens frequently is easier on your hand than zooming. I'm left handed, so changing a lens with my right isn't easy.

aimfail said:

Thanks yes its my first post here the photos are taken with the iPhone 4 and the app HDR pro. The first photo is a panorama. The panorama are difficult to get right because it is individual photos that has to be manipulated each.

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An iphone, handheld?
Bravo good sir, bravo indeed.

I have owned the 70-200/2.8 IS mk I, and currently own the mk II version. Used at f2.8 (which you'll probably rely on a lot to get the shutter speeds needed), the difference is dramatic. As bad as the mk I is at f2.8, it is acceptable if stopped down to f4 - which begs the question, why not just get the f4 IS instead of the mk I? If used in auto or Tv, it can't open up to soft apertures, plus it's cheaper, lighter, has better IS (4 stops vs 3), and is sharper at all equivalent settings.

While IS isn't necessarily useful for action shots due to the high shutter speeds, it can come in handy for composing. Plus the moment you use the lens for slower moving subjects, or do video, IS will come in really handy.

Even though it's no match for the mk II, the non weather sealed 2.8 non IS is sharper than the mk I 2.8 IS lens.

As video is high up your list, I'd recommend stretching to the 2.8 IS II, and if you really can't afford it, the only other suitable option in my opinion is the f4 IS. If video wasn't so important, questionably the f2.8 non IS instead.

looks like the same phottix, pixel, delamax, meike etc. etc. grip to me.. just one more name they sell it under.

i have one for my 6D and it´s nice for the price (i payed 45 euro).

but be aware the same grip sells for 45 euro from one "brand" and for 130 euro from another.


and there is an small error in this review:

LP-E6 batteries ... the 6D works correctly only with genuine Canon.

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that is not correct. there are some third pary batteries that work... i know because i use them.

maass said:

Thanks for the suggestions Guys
I decided on getting 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8 8)

Hari

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Great lenses, enjoy!

Post some of your shots here when you have time.

good for them!!...

Thank you for the reply. If I am reading it correctly, that is the same option as assigning the magnify button to instant-focus point correct? Just changing it to the set button instead? Is there a benefit to this? Thanks!

There you have it. Personally, you have two cameras. I think you should have two lenses at least. Personally, when I go out, I take two cameras and at least two lenses, and am ready for most things, without having to change lenses in the field. Plus, if something happens, I have a backup camera. I am nothing more than a rank amateur photographer too. Just my 2 cents.

All here gave great advice- up to you to decide what you value most and go for it.

A couple months ago I finally got around to editing a bunch of mountaineering footage together into something interesting. I gave a talk on photography and mountaineering and this is what I closed the talk with. I hope you like! Was shot with all Canon gear:

https://vimeo.com/56002335

wickidwombat said:

I really think the issue is using photomatix it's softening the images considerably and gives the skin tones a sickly look

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Might interest you to know that most software are racists. (j/k)

I don't know if it's your case but using any kind of auto setting related to skin tones generally end up in big fails with asians. That particularly true when there is very present make up.

Just have to do everything manually.

Oh too bad, have been waiting and waiting... but it is worth to wait...

I would definitely practice your glidecam work. It's very wobbly back and forth. Maybe try to balance the glidecam more precisely and it will become easier to work with. Also you might want to consider a pan or slide on the static shots to keep it more interesting rather than halting the movement. Your exposure is nice and the colors look good. I like the sound track.

How to balance glide cam
How to PROPERLY balance Wieldy, Glidecam, Flycam, Laing, Wondlan, etc

Mantanuska said:

Personally, I don't know why you would want a T5i when you can get essentially the same camera (a T4i) for $300 less.

And while we're at it, the only reason to get a T4i over a T3i is the touch screen. If the touch screen isn't important , you will get slightly better image quality from a T3i, and it is cheaper.


All that aside, if the T5i and the 60D were the only two choices, I would vote for the 60D. Having that aperture wheel on the back of the camera makes things a lot easier. The 60D still has plenty of automatic modes

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The T4i has 9-Point All Cross-Type AF System whereas the T3i is Cross-Type only in center.

Mine's the same way.

I have the SP24-70VC and it is amazingly sharp, the VC (IS) is wonderful (at least 3 stops) and I highly recommend it. It is far superior to the 24-105, which I also have. I would sell the 24-105 and pick up a 70-200. The reviews for the Tamron are very good, though I have no experience with it. I do have the 70-200L f/4 IS and think this is one of the best affordable lenses on the planet. Hope this helps.

I don't think you can stream the broadcast outside of the uk, but my vt inserts can be viewed here (minus music for copyright reasons)

http://youtu.be/tbx9cHT5c0Q

http://youtu.be/MdThPygyypw

http://youtu.be/XE8WANdpt1o

http://youtu.be/S2IP9Q8wg1c

http://youtu.be/aIlGaeue7es

http://youtu.be/rilq2H1JtHQ

learncanon said:

DArora said:

learncanon said:

Dylan777 said:

If you think 97% Viewfinder Coverage in 6D is too big, wait until you shoot with 5D III @ 100%

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this is a common misconception.

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No, it's not. At 0.71x magnification 100% coverage viewfinder will be bigger than 97% coverage viewfinder. 6D and 5D3 both has 0.71x magnification viewfinders. APS-C cameras have smaller magnification, 7D, for example, has 0.63x, 50D has 0.59x.

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we are talking abt 97 vs 100. yes, on paper is it bigger. but in real life, can you even notice that 3%? putting the 3% vf crop aside. he made it seems like that the 3% size difference is going to blow OP away. this is a misconception in this sense.

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So...it's bigger