I wanted to share my first film shot on the Canon C100 Cinema Cam. I shot this whole thing in one weekend for a 48 Hour Film Festival using only 3 Zeiss ZE lenses: 15mm 2.8, 35mm 1.4, and 85mm 1.4. 90% of it ended up on the 35mm.

Hope you enjoy it!

https://vimeo.com/64573912

Hi,

I send one short movie of the Etna. I make movie with timelapse.

I take the images at 13 April 2014.

My cameras EOS 5D III and 1Dx. You watch on HD (1080)...Link http://fredericsiffert.blogspot.ch/2013/04/pour-le-souvenir-les-eruptions-de-letna.html

Iiiii would

Thx for your answer.

I also tried in manual focus but it's really not that easy as distance to subject changes drastically.

I put a few pictures here :
http://photos.paolotaverna.com/cavallinolaunch/h5C748540#h5c7484de
http://photos.paolotaverna.com/cavallinolaunch/h5C748540#h5c748480
http://photos.paolotaverna.com/cavallinolaunch/h5C748540#h5c74846e
http://photos.paolotaverna.com/cavallinolaunch/h5c74919c#h5c749288
http://photos.paolotaverna.com/cavallinolaunch/h5c74919c#h5c7492e8

regards

jeremypark said:

we set up a black pop up reflector and ring flash off camera on a street corner in Sydney. Stopping the more interesting people for 5 or so shots, trying to find the most interesting feature to bring out of them. I put some on my website http://www.jeremypark.com.au if you're interested.

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Very cool, Jeremy.

CanadianInvestor said:

Absolutely marvellous shots, however, the last three lack 'sharpness', in my opinion. Was this intentional or am I seeing something which is not there? But, again, great shots and you are right, simple, yet outstanding.

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Hi thanks for the feedback. If 100% viewed, I find the sharpness fine for these 3. Maybe you are referring to low contrast? Or perhaps because of the shallow DOF?

In my country most rental places have Tiffen NDs and Polarizers. I have been a camera operator and focus puller long enough to know the difference between brands solely by looking at the final image... Even though here the standard is Tiffen, they algo give you a slight green cast and the resolution drops (this appears to be subjective, I know some ACs that claim they don't see a difference) a lot. I joke around saying that Tiffen gives you a free 1/4 White Promist with their NDs.

That is my experience with Tiffen. Sometimes I get a Schneider or B+W (owned by Schneider), and I hug the guys at the rental place. Those are good filters.

But then again, my standards of quality are comparable to standards of japanese schoolgirls. Scoring an 8 out of 10 is not acceptable.

To sum up... I actually bought a used 70-200mm f/2.8L IS mkii today for $1700. Per the person, it has been sparingly used during that year and it was collecting dust... which I totally can understand because I have all but abandoned using my 50mm f/1.4 over the past year and change.

Two quick things... I know how to read the manufacture date for a lens so I will be able to tell if it was made in 2010 v. 2012, but is there anything else I should check for to see how much it was used? I'm inclinded to say scratches wear spots, etc... but I don't think that is going to be an issue.

I really did want to get a 5d mkiii next... but this was just too good of a deal to pass up. Now I'm about 4 to 500 short of being able to afford the mkiii... but I can make that up before Christmas pretty easily.

yes

RGF said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Fat 32 is the format to use, its compatible with your camera, with Windows, and with Macs. For 128GB cards, exFAT is used. Its compatible with late model cameras, Windows and Mac Snow Leopard and later.


A low level format as its now commonly referred to is not the same lowlevel format of yester year, it basically writes 0's to all the cells on your card, and is useful for finding bad cells and mapping them out.

In Windows, its called a full format as opposed to the quick format done in the camera and in Windows. Quick format just marks the card as empty and doesn't check anything. I don't know what terminology Macs Use.

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Nice it would actual test each sector by writing and reading.

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Actually, I think it does test.

You can use software like Lexar's Image Rescue 4 which will erase and then format a card. It can take a very long time to run on a big card.

Just my two cents, I would go for the Sigma 105mm F/2.8 EX DG Macro lens. I picked up mine for $300 used in mint condition. I use it a lot for both macro photography and video, it is one of my sharpest lenses. When you're photographing stuff like rugs, do you really need the fastest and best autofocus. The Sigma doesn't have the greatest autofocus but I'm shooting using live view and manually focusing most of the time. Just today I got some great shots with the lens.







Here are some other photos I've taken with it













Here's a movie I shot with it

Star Magnolia

The OP is looking for a flash. 580 and 600 were suggested in the first reply so I added the link to that post for more info.

Is the 700D aka Rebel X5i this side of the pond?

a few more...

i liked 2, but also 6 and 7. but i am a pilot, i like sky
http://www.youtube.com/user/scoobertjoo

Thanks.

I know this is a little off topic but I found I was using my 50mm f/1.4 at 2.8 or smaller most of the time so i sold it and got the 24-70 f/2.8 II instead.

If you need to use the lens wider than 2.8, I always hear that the 50 1.2L outperforms the 50 1.4, but only marginally.

It all depends if you want ETTL or not. I have Sigma ring flash that is exactly the same as the MR-14EX and owned the MT-24-EX. I used the MT-24 with my MP-E65 which I sold both the lens and the flash.

The MR-14EX was really designed for medical applications like dentists taking shots of teeth but as neuronatomist mentioned because you can control or ratio each tube you can do nice work with it. It is less expensive than the MT-24 and easier to work with I found.

There are also tons of DIY projects on the net. People use an on camera flash like the 580, make aluminium foil lined cardboard tube that extends and is angled to the subject just past the end of the lens.

Here is one with my Sigma Ring flash

brad-man said:

I agree. The third shot is framed perfectly. I would have brought up the shadows more in that second one, or was it shot with a Canon . Nice shots guys.

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Asking for trouble are you?

I think you have had some great advices from the others already - from taking the flash off the camera, having adequate shutter speed, or improving the composition by cropping out irrelevant variables.

Another thing I would add is planning. Basically I would suggest you to get to know about the event as much as you can. From where the people of interest would sit, the position where you can mount/bounce your flash, timing, etc. This way you can be better prepared and know where you should be for a given scene. During your planning phase, I found it useful to survey the location by having the lights both on and then off.

Many people have their own approach, but for me, planning process is key.

Hope this helps.

cheers,
r.

Sure C. is developing something new.
And I am sure, also a new FF.
They always will.

Time will tell.
You can be sure by buying a 5d3 to have a good tool now.

Great shots.
I see you use 1DMKIII with 400mm f/2.8 and center-weighted average

Do you use most of the time the center weighted average? On what decision you change it?

PureAmateur said:

How about this one?

http://re35.net/index.html

;D

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Nice design idea, pity about the April 1st disclaimer though :'(

wickidwombat said:

i really hope they enable customisation of the rate button
I want to set it to enable / disable AEB so i dont have to go into the menu to do it

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+1

An alternative would be http://www.canonpricewatch.com/. Click on whatever lens you are interested in and scroll to the bottom of the page. There is a graphical representation of the average pricing of the lens from release to present.