An alternative would be http://www.canonpricewatch.com/. Click on whatever lens you are interested in and scroll to the bottom of the page. There is a graphical representation of the average pricing of the lens from release to present.

MRLinVA said:

Agree 100% with Neuro's assessment. In my view the only regret you will have is not having proper support and watching the big glass hit the ground. I have used the Wimberley WH-200 and it is very nice. I personally have the same RRS setup as Neuro describes, with the only difference being that I have the TVC-33S (the S stands for "short") which I prefer for travel convenience.

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I'd definitely go with the 3 section' studies, especially this is new to you. I have no trouble getting my Gitzo 3530LS 3 section on board a plane even a regional aircraft.

G'day mate...aloha from Hawaii

hgraf said:

I didn't consider that another type of closed loop is camera checks PD array, tells lens to move to a position and lens reports done. While technically closed loop, it isn't as simple as the first case, and exposes the system to more sources of error.

Engineering is all about compromise, so the fact that Canon does it the way it does points to there being a benefit to the more complicated method, my guess would be speed.

It's similar to how the contrast detect focusing in live view is "slow", contrast detect doesn't deliver as reliable a "your focus is off by this much" sort of error signal, so the loop is closed by the contrast detect, hence the hunting you see while in live mode.

So thank you all for clearing this up for me!

One last question: how does Nikon do it? Does it also have an AFMA type tool?

Thanks!

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Phase detect operates in basically the same way for all Cameras. It is old technology. A closed loop will still be inaccurate as well as slow. Remember, the check done by the PD array does not mean the subect is in focus.

Contrast detect, which uses the actual sensor photosites to compute focus is the closed loop type of focusing. Its painfully slow because of all the checking and back and forth searching. It often starts searching in the wrong direction.

Some of the newer Canon models now use a hybrid focusing method. Phase Detect pixels are embedded in the sensor, and tell the contrast detection system where to look for sharpest focus. The drawback for DSLR's is that the mirror must be up, so there is no visibility thru the viewfinder to be able to track the subject.

Mirrorless cameras get around this by using EVF technology which is improving with every new version. They are still very slow to focus where large sensors are involved. Small sensors might only use three to five lens positions to cover focus, so they are much quicker. The very deep depth of field makes this work.

"Distrosion" related to closeness to the 3D object like that image posted. For flat rugs laid out our hung (hanging down on platform which is lifted to be in the camera-lens axis which offers better workflow and product photo management) the wide angle less difficult to handle because distortion will be more subtle. But there will be some change in the pattern on the periphery of the [flat]rug if shoot close in with the 10-22. Nice lens, though. LR will correct the "barrel" or "pincushion" distortion. You might also look at DxO RAW processing product for other more sophisticated wide angle corrections.

I would guess that pattern distortion was a show-stopper (bad kind) in the rug business.

Sometimes the best way to clear up confusion is to just try it...

I hope you have continued happiness and enjoyment!

I purchased a refurbished 5Dmk3 six weeks ago when Canon marked them down to $2379.00. It had less than 100 shots taken on it and looked brand new. It has performed very well and I would definitely buy more refurbished items from Canon when on sale.

Having used both (for a 5D2) I'll take FoCal any day.

Jim

Thanks for all the help. I just join a local Photography-Club hope to learn how to use this thing before my trip, lol

The reason I was even thinking about the 600 was because 580 used on ebay going for like $375 but I can get new 600 for $499. Plus from what I have been reading they say sooner or later you will go with radio control. I don't want to buy something that later on will not use much because I bought something better.

jdramirez said:

Aglet said:

jdramirez said:

I'm upgrading my 60d to the 5d mkiii and I'm concerned I will really miss my 60d. but I think after I get the 5d, I will be better off getting a 50d for the afma and slightly faster shots per second.

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be prepared for the 50D's considerably greater noise.
When I had my 40D, and was thirsting for the AFMA and extra MP when the 50D came out, one look at some test shots and I decided to skip the 50D. It's my least liked x0D body for that reason.

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I was looking at the price of used fifties and they were outrageous considering i can get a new sixty d for the same price. so I'm not sure what I'll do, but I ess probably going to let my daughter have the 2nd body and I would use it as a back up when I needed to. who knows maybe the seventy will be awesome and I'll get that as my backup.

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Hi, I sold my 60D when I upraded to the 5D3, I miss it very much and do regret selling it. I didn't realize how good it would have been to have a good enough back up body. I liked all about it.

psolberg said:

Ultimately, there is not much point justifying our own choices. Going to any system, you gain some, you loose some, which is my point. I certainly see plenty of the same tales in Nikon land. In most cases however it is just the usual nonsensical loyalty photographers have for mere tools which is both hilarious and sad at the same time.

I know that there are people on both sides of the fence stuck on some lens or camera and erect a shrine to it and overblow its significance based on some anecdotal evidence or personal experience. I'm just glad, long gone are the days were it was canon or nothing and we should all celebrate it and hope it only gets to better. The trend certainly indicates the future is very heterogeneous and there will be plenty of choice. AWESOME.

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+1

I still don't understand the either-or mentality of some people, especially gearheads like myself.
Some of us have so much invested that it really doesn't matter much what brand it is, as long as it does the job it was purchased for.

E.G. Telling yourself you need to stay with brand X because you have all the flashes and strobes that match is not a very compelling argument when what you need is a better wide angle lens and higher DR body to do landscapes. Get the better landscape gear, use your other brand with your strobes.

Not all my wrenches and shop tools come from Sears or Snap-On. I see no compelling reason not to think the same way when spending on photo equipment. Get what's best suited for the task or whatever you prefer to use for a certain task.

Dare I say, having multiple camera brands on hand, for their different strengths, is NOT tantamount to puritanical views on polygamy. Yet some people seem to be wedded to their one brand of gear, for better or worse.
I prefer polycamy far more since I've experienced it. ;D

bseitz234 said:

I mean, I love this lens as much as anyone, but why is this a thread? There's a thread for this lens in the sample gallery....

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Sorry, Im new. maybe the mods can move it.

Thanks guys

Might try the grip with the 6d

Still would like to get another lens maybe the 70+ range is worth a look at

Cheers

Return both. Its normal for Sigma to have AF issues, but something sounds damaged on the Canon lens.

Great looking scope,by the way I thought this was a camera forum not some idiots political rhetoric.

wrong froum.. do we have MODS here who move such threads or are they just deleting threads where MODS get corrected and they look stupid?

i guess thats a rumor or why did you post it here?

Yes. For equivalent framing, you're further away on APS-C meaning the DoF is deeper. Basically, the 'crop factor' applies to DoF, too.

http://www.aputure.com/en/product/v_control_usb.php

Just picked up this electonic remote to help me with my focus pull while shooting video / volleyball games. It has 4 presets, which should work well for where on the court I typically shoot (service, digs, sets and kills). I have tested it on my 5d3 (1dIV and 7d) with a variety of lenses, and while when it works, it works well, but occasionally freezes and needs to be turned on / off to reset.

Anyone else try this...??

Portsmouth, NH.


Shot on a 60D, 1/50, f/2.8, ISO 1000, 40mm Pancake



Shot on a 60D, 1/160, f/4.5, ISO 100, 40mm Pancake

After all this talk about insurance, and, especially after buying the Zeiss 15mm, I went and found an insurance company (here in Australia) that has a reasonable cover. For those interested, AON are the crowd in Australia that specialise in camera gear insurance, so I discovered

That looks like several of my shots done at much shorter focal length...of course I was at a closer distance.

Thanks Guys Going Tomorrow

I was in both upper and lower Antelope slot canyons of Page, AZ in October (I guess these are the slot canyons you refer too).
In upper, I brought both my 5D3 with 17-40L and my 50D with 24-70L II. I didn't use the 50D, so I brought only the 5D3+17-40L in lower.

From your gear, I'd choose the 16-35L and bring the tripod - especially in lower Antelope. They will give you a 2 hours "ticket" for you to explore the canyon on your own. Consider bringing a remote trigger also for long exposures.

Research how much sun there is at what time of the day in August - the canyons get a very dull brownish look without sunlight. Upper is kinda A-shaped (narrow in the top, wide in the bottom), whereas the lower is V-shaped. This suggests that you should pick Upper during midday, and Lower in either morning/afternoon.

Since you're in Page, AZ, anyway, I'd suggest you consider going to the "Horseshoe Bend" of the Colorado river on the other side of the town too. This is a sunrise adventure - bring a flashlight.

I lived in Japan for a total of 3 years for work (2 sperate periods).
I have a bunch of photos on my flickr that will give you an idea of a lot of different areas, some often not commonly travelled to by tourists. Most of them should be labelled or tagged with the location (no GPS though)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidcampbellphotography/collections/72157608783712689/
I would highly reccomend using www.japan-guide.com for research, there is a lot of good content on there.

During september, the autumn leaves will be turning in higher latitudes and higher altitudes. Autumn is my favourite time in Japan. This website, as you get closer to the trip will give you an idea of the autumn leave progression. http://kouyou.yahoo.co.jp/ it is in Japanese but you should be able to put it through google translate.

If you are into Landscapes, Kamikochi in Nagano Prefecture has a lot to offer.

Nearby is Matsumoto that has a stunning original castle. This town also has a woodblock print museum where you can buy nice original process hand made wood block prints/replicas of more famous works.
Also Nearby is Takayama, Shirakawago which have traditional grass hut villages.
Kanazawa has a stunning garden, nice geisha/gold leaf district as well as a cool "ninja temple" called ninja dera. Basically a temple with many levels and hidden doors etc.

I also reccomend the following places Nikko, Koya san, Nara, Kyoto, Kamakura, Hiroshima/Miyajima, Sendai/Matsushima.

In Kyoto, there is an un written rule that you cant use tripods in/around the temples. I used to get told off a lot as many places dont have signs.

Good luck with the trip planning.