Their last sensors aren't the same, as Mt Spokane states, but the sensor technology they use remains the same. And this is their biggest problem. They also lost ground in the semiconductor lithography market.

YellowJersey said:

Whether this is even possible is beyond me, as I lack everything but a very rudimentary understanding of this kind of engineering.

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Something like that actually exists - instead of counting electrons after a certain time you wait for each pixel to send a "my bin is full"-message. Your timer tells you how intense the illumination was.
On the downside the idea of a defined shutter time goes out of the window, and while low light levels can be recorded almost free of noise fast flash might cause trouble.

weekendshooter said:

+1 for the remaining shot estimate having the potential to be wildly off. I saw the same on my 450D and currently experience this on my (gasp) D700. It reads 605 shots remaining for an empty 16GB card, where I regularly get 1200+ in real conditions.

Just changing the ISO is not the whole story. File size is a function of the entropy of the image, which in this case is most commonly created through noise. As noise is typically highly amplified in shadow OOF regions, these are the sorts of images that will take up more card space. Images with high ISO shot in good light, such as for high shutter speeds, will not increase the file size as much as images shot in low light at high ISO with large amounts of dark OOF areas.

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If the camera were amplifying the dark regions more than the light ones, all we would get is a gray image with little or no contrast. Canon has not yet been able to control the gain of individual photosites, and, if they did, they still would not amplify dark ones to brighten them up. Black is black.

I can´t understand Canon. They bring up a big update for the 7D, but the necessary errors in the 1D X and 5D Mark III are not fixed until yet. Also a lot of wished functions for the 1D X and 5D Mark III are not included until yet. Canon you loose.

If the firmware update for the 7D is able to speed the camera up, it´s no problem to speed the 5D Mark III up. But nothing happens.

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The 1Dx and 5D3 have been out 5 minutes, the 7D has been out 3 years. That suggests the opposite of 'no problem'. Also different camera architecture (different generation processors, different chip read off)

It seems from canons own blurb that it was work done on the 1d series that was transposed in this fw upgrade to the 7D.

I was reading about Canon flashes, and I remember there being some compatability issues in that regard with the 5D3 and 1DX. I know some of them won't do that with the 5D3 at all, but I'm not sure about your model. I will look it up again.

AdamJ said:

nikkito said:

more servo tests

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Punishing servo test! ;D

Seriously though, nice shots.

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hahah i thought that when i uploaded this pics. that was the most difficult shot of them all. hahaaaahahahaaaaaaaa
thank you very much, you made me laugh ;D

Look for Photoflex products.

drmikeinpdx said:

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/08/autofocus-reality-part-3b-canon-cameras#more-8458

I think this is a very important article. It addresses my concerns about the Canon autofocus system better than any other article I've seen and will influence my future buying decisions.

What do you think of it?

Mike in Portland

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I think of it what I wrote here:
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=8397.0

interesting stuff and kinda fits

there was NO Canon and NO Nikon . . . just a pro body camera for taking photos. WINNER!

All my lens hoods are reverse mounted with the lens along with both caps in my camera case. During shooting, all my lenses can go back into the case with the hood in the normal position. I am using a crop body. therefore I can use the 17-55 f2.8 lens hood on my 17-40mm. It saves quite a bit of space.

Make sure the monopod is a video version (manfrotto 561?) as this has small footprint a ball and socket foot. Can pan nice even without video head.

I disagree about iso. Iso should be kept consistent and if possible, low.

Control exposure via aperture, light and filtration. Shutter is generally best fixed as per the 180 rule.

F2.8 issue is important on video cameras which have lenses with varying apertures that open up beyond f2.8, the only dslr lens I can think if that does this is the tokina 28-70 f2.6-f2.8.

You should however concentrate on fast primes and or constant f2.8 zooms. This gives you maximum options, and if you zoom between shots they should stilll be evenly matched.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

It has been reported that the 5D MK III does not oversaturate the reds as badly as the 5D MK II and some of the earlier cameras.

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I saturated the reds more in post and the look is closer to what I expected. This maybe contributing to my issue as well.

Stephen Melvin said:

I think the AWB is showing an overall cooler white balance than older Canons. Open the raw file in Lightroom or another raw converter and warm up the white balance, and you'll likely see the old look that you expect.

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You maybe right. I see some improvement, I am going to try this shot again where there are no street lights and see what it is like.

I did have a chance to test out 1D X from a friend. Both AF + fps makes my 5D III looks like a kid toy on race track in pomona CA.

For me....photography is just a hobby. Besides, my wife would kill me if she knows I spend $6000plus on the body. My conclusion: 5D III plus some L lenses are more than enough for a NEWBIE like me ;D

RLPhoto said:

5D3 + EOS M + L Primes = Ultimate Setup in my Book. 8)

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I don't know. I think I will hang on to my T2i as the "compact" backup to my 5D III. Once you add the EOS lens adapter and stick an L glass, the EOS M's advantage in portability decreases quite a bit over Rebel bodies, who have the advantage of EVF and built-in flash, even wireless external flash control for later bodies.

Once the next generation of hopefully better APS-C Canon sensors make it into the EOS-M MkII or whatever, with EVF, then I may seriously think about picking one up.

akiskev said:

unadog said:

Can you compare to the T3i/7D? Will 6400 on the 5D3 be better than 1600 on T3i/T2i/7D?

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From my own experience 5d 6400 looks a lot like 7d's 1600. So I think you 'll be happy with what you ll get!

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Thanks so much! And RLPhoto too.

Good luck guys.

I also agree on the 24-70 II.

The existing 24-70 is the one lens I would pick if I could only have 1 lens for life. If I had to sell every other lens to get the 24-70 II, I think I would! Gonna be awesome.

That and the 70-200 and you are covered for 90% of pro work, then fill in with your specialty: 24L, 200L, Tilt Shift, etc.

Cheers! Michael

Best,
Michael

Tcapp said:

Quasimodo said:

charlesa said:

You cannot replicate a polarizer in Photoshop. GND yes, CPL, no.

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Ok? Why? Is it because the informaton on the RAW file is insuffisient, thus not giving you the range to tweak in pp? I thought that you could alter the type of saturation through masking afterwards. If this is right, and I am not suggesting that you and Neuro are wrong, means that I will have to get a CPL for all my lenses, before I take a plunge into Lee.

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When you boost saturation in Photoshop, you can introduce noise, artifacts, and other funky undesired effects. If you do it via physical filter, the saturation is real and looks better.I guess its kinda like digital zoom vs optical zoom. If you "zoom" digitally your really just making things worse. The only way to get a good result is to make the modification before the capture.

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Also, reducing unwanted reflections increases detail in certain subjects (such as rocks and leaves), that can't be recovered in PP. More than amy other filter, a CPL is the one that can't be replicated in PP. Bear in mind though, that they work best when the light source is at 90 degrees, so if the sun is directly in front or behind, then they will have little or no effect, unless you also have water or other shiny surfaces coming into play. While to some degree, the effects of ND grads can be replicated in PP, that only goes so far, if part of the image is too blown, then no amount of recovery will recover it, so then ND grads also become vital and can't be reporduced. While HDR will recover detail, they often don't look natural, without a lot of care and some scenes (such as those containing high contrast transitions and snow) really don't work with HDR.

I'm sure if the demand was there Canon will only be too happy to sell us a new 400 DO.

Personally if I had to carry a bit extra weight knowing I'm getting better IQ with the heavier lens, I'll take the heavier lens every time.

Mind you, in another twenty years I might change my mind once middle age catches up with me

I may have found an answer to my own question and stumbled across this by accident just moments after posting..strange

if interested you can view this: http://www.sekonic.com/Classroom/Webinars/Measuring-and-Evaluating-Light-in-Landscape-Photography.aspx

bdunbar79 said:

I am happy with it too, but you know how it is, when you get something new you maybe hope it may do the 1/3 stops of 1/640 and 1/800 8)

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It is only a minimum - so in bright light I am often much faster

Dont forget you can dial in min/max ISO too - again full stops. My 1D4 is set for L/6400

Another alternative is to set the Safety shift to TV/AV and shoot on TV

In Tv mode, the Tv/Av Safety Shift behaves the same way only changing the shutter speed instead. For a required exposure of f/1.4 at 1/250th with a lens that can only open up to f/2.8, Safety Shift would cause the camera to drop the shutter speed to 1/60th to insure a proper exposure. Alternatively, an exposure that required an aperture smaller than the lens could produce would result in shortening the shutter speed until the exposure was correct. With Autoiso set then this only shifts when the ISO limit is reached.

This gives you the fine control over the shutter speed

Share price is a poor indicator of the health of a company

To complete your POV how about posting some similar pics you shot with the D800.

Interesting way to make money

http://news.yahoo.com/video/vacationers-hollywood-personal-paparazzi-080000548.html

@Axilrod

Are people seriously trying to say there aren't any benefits to using rigs/follow focus/etc.?

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No. I have 1 rig which is unbeatable when the rare occasion demands it (moving shots down stairs) and a stabilser which is unbeatable when the occassion demands it (like a 360 inverted hand held track)

For the other 99% of occassions I go to my manfrotto video monopod or sachtler ACE tripod.

If by necessity I'm shooting lots of handheld I'll shoot with an ENG camera.

neuroanatomist said:

No creep on mine. Not only that, but holding it and swinging, I need a lot of centrifugal force to get the zoom to extend - softball bat swing type force takes it to 50-70mm but not all the way out, a tennis backhand volley swing and the barrel doesn't move.

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Fascinating description of your "centrifuge"-test - makes me wonder what
else you use the camera for - besides participating in sports ^^

brilliant!

BjornO said:

Look at http://bbs.news.163.com/bbs/shishi/149311320.html

It seems to have been posted in 2009!

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Ive found it too. What Ive found out is that it was uploaded days (8/21/2009) before 7D was announced (9/1/2009) - so maybe its a foto of a prototype that surfaced as 7D or...more probably a fake.