Posts

Rienzphotoz · Mar 23, 2013

brad-man said:
Rienzphotoz said:

brad-man said:

You might also consider a Tamron SP24-70 f/2.8 VC. It's sharper than the Canon mk l

Click to expand...

I have the Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 VC and I agree that it is a good choice but it is definitely not sharper than the 24-70 f/2.8 MK I ... if VC/IS is not important to you, it is better to get the 24-70 f/2.8 MK I (if you can find one).

Click to expand...

our favorite-DxOmark

Ha ha ha ... don't drag me there ;D ;D ;D

brad-man said:
Roger @ LR and our favorite-DxOmark says that not only is it sharper than ver 1, it is a close second to version 2. The price and VC are just gravey...

I'm no expert like Roger of LR or DxO but in my very limited experience I found the sharpness of EF 24-70 L & 24-70 VC to be in distinguishable ... but when it comes to the sharpness of EF 24-70 L II the Tamron is no match ... I had the 24-70 L II, unfortunately it was stolen ... bcoz I could not pay another $2200, so I went with the 24-70 VC plus I got it for over $250 less than the regular US price ... its a brilliant lens and worth the money but if I could, I would still go with the 24-70 L II.

georgecpappas · Mar 23, 2013

I use a Lee filter polarizer/ND combination due to the range of movements that I employ with this excellent lens...

The other thing you should look into is the Adobe Flat field plug-in for Lightroom. This plug-in lets you calibrate the raw processing of images taken with shift to reduce/eliminate the CA and other optical issues that occur when using a lot of shift. Check it out at Adobe labs.

George Pappas

RS2021 · Mar 23, 2013

Don't take too many pictures of my food... just appears 85 1.2 could be an overkill and 200m could be a tad too long.

babulkhan497 · Mar 23, 2013

Do you know how to create photo canvas. I know how to get quality photo canvas.

___________________
photo canvas

cookinghusband · Mar 23, 2013

paolotaverna said:
1- I tried to remove battery.....nothing
2- removed lens..and re-attached
3- put in my 50 f1.2 ....nothing

i changed the priority to release...took one shot...then put back my setting or priority to focus..and all was good after that

now i can't reproduce it

I had similiar but different problem
Just bought the camera on 13 March After a few days and around my 50000 shot my focus problem started.
( ps I mainly use 12FPS mode and the 70-200 2.8 is usm and similiar(16-35 2.8) or worse(70-300 DO) for other lens)
( I am doing a shooting for the same dancing concert for 9 consecutive days it occur after the 4th day and the first few days were perfectly fine )
from time to time I cannot focus in one shot mode. as soon as switch I back to MF for 1 or 2 shutter release and turn back to AF it works again, then after a while it happen again. and repeatable. The AF ok period seems to deteriorate after another 5000-10000 shot.

Then I start to try the Ai-servo mode. Seems like the first few shot is out then in focus for a long period in ai-servo mode. If I switch back to single-shot the above will happen again.

Any one have any suggestions (take back to repair?)

Cyclo · Mar 23, 2013

[/quote]
Thanks. Yes I hope to set up another session sooner or later.
[/quote]
then, i would like to join with

feel free to drop me an email, [email protected]
c ya.

Mt Spokane Photography · Mar 22, 2013

Re: 5D2 Refurb Received - Shutter Actuations

I believe my refurb 7D came with 2-3K actuations. I could not check them until software arrived that worked for it, but I knew about how many shots I took before I check the actuations.. I was pleasant surprised to see about 200 actuations on my refurb 5D MK II that I bought last July.
Its pretty easy with that camera to shoot over 1000 images in a day.

Mt Spokane Photography · Mar 22, 2013

Cory said:
I'm tossing around keeping my T1i and maybe adding one of the upcoming Rebels. Maybe the little one with a little prime.
If I do that (or even go with the little prime on my T1i and maybe a 7D II one day) would I be using the same Canon software for both cameras or would I use the software that came with my T1i for the T1i and the new software with the new camera? And, if the latter, would the correct software recognize the right camera?
And my processing software is LR4.
Thanks for any insight into that whole topic.

If you buy a new Canon DSLR, the software that comes with it is backward compatible to older models.
You will have to wait for Lightroom 4 to be updated, but you can use DPP to convert raws for one or 10,000 images in a batch and send them to Lightroom as .tiff images.

tmsprts · Mar 22, 2013

90% of hockey action is thru glass. Best fix is curves ( white & black clip in CS6 ) then use high pass to sharpen, then some dodge and burn for localized contrast adjustment! No color adjust, it is what it is... Wicked Shot BTW!!

npherno · Mar 22, 2013

NorthDallas40 said:
privatebydesign said:

Though in low light this could be another benefit, shoot at f1.4 for the shutter speed but get the dof of f4, win win. Unless you wanted very shallow dof!

Click to expand...

Great idea. 1.4 or anything under 2.8 has razor-thin dof's. Sometimes that's good, but often it would be preferable to get a little more dof while still enjoying the shutter speed possible with a wide aperture. I'll experiment with this at a party we plan to attend tonight.

Thanks again.

VelocideX said:
Thank you to all the advice, particularly from those who actually read my post

I don't have the 16-35L, and this would be a great lens for it. I don't have the cash for it at the moment.

RLPhoto - no idea why dance receptions are relevant to this...

LOALTD - I understand the Sigma 35mm f/1.4 is pretty good, but I have the 35L and so have no compelling reason to buy it. I keep reading about autofocus issues, even with the Sigma, and so went for the 35L instead and have been pretty happy with it. I was hoping for the 35L II but this seems like a fantasy.

TrumpetPower! - I do have the 40mm pancake but hadn't considered it - 2.8 is only one stop faster than f/4, and with the high ISO capabilities of the 5D3 I would choose the 24-105 f/4 over the 40 f/2.8. The reason to go for the primes in this environment would be to get substantially more aperture. I love the colour rendition of the 24L. I do take your point about it being more easily passed off as amateur though. My 40mm stays on my camera a lot of the time when I'm doing street photography as it is less conspicuous.

Sorry, I responded before my morning coffee!

Out of your collection, the 24-105 will be fine, especially if you are shooting with flash. I dont own a 5d3, but my 50D hunts like crazy in some scenarios without the faster lens or flash assist. Barring that, I think the flexibility for the unexpected will be pretty well suited with the zoom.

Lets see some of your work when you are done, and please check out the link I posted earlier. There is WAAY more info on that link that can help you out with tackling how to shoot in clubs.

Thank you actually, you gave me a push to go out and shoot tonight...

Regards..

cccp80 · Mar 22, 2013

What I don't understand is why Canon can't release a 36 MP FF sensor???
FF matrix is more than twice the area of the APS-C sensor so even by using the same technology they introduced in 7D over 3 years ago, Canon can start putting out 36 MP full frames.
It seems like now even more than ever Canon needs to step up and show Nikon that we can do it too!

kirispupis · Mar 22, 2013

If you use the 2x, then you have to do 2x + extension + 100L.

So with the extension tubes you have 1.68x, and with the 2x you have 3.36x - though the quality will suck and your minimum focus distance will be nil.

If you want to go above 1x then the MP-E 65 is your best bet.

chauncey · Mar 22, 2013

OK, I'm a relative newbe to this site after being more active on NAPP and POTN, but since you'll are talking about this Neuro guy, here's my 2 cents...
I like him...Why, well I'm glad you asked. There is a fair number of folks out there that opine that one needs to develop his own style, a recognizable body of work.

Not me, I don't want to be known as a macro, or landscape, or street, or critter photographer...I just want to be able to do a reasonably competent job at them all.
Based on Neuro's flickr site, it would appear that although our philosophies coincide, not much else does...color me green.

Camerajah · Mar 22, 2013

Firmware 1.2.1available for EOS 1DX

"Canon has announced that a firmware update for its flagship EOS-1D X DSLR (Version 1.2.1) is now available for download. See below for details of the exact firmware fixes and improvements.

EOS-1D X Firmware Version 1.2.1
Firmware Version 1.2.1 for the EOS-1D X incorporates the following improvements and fixes:

The function to disable the Image size selection button has been added.
Fixes a phenomenon in which Err 70 and Err 80 may occur in very rare instances depending on the camera settings or shooting scene.
* EOS-1D X Firmware Version 1.2.1 is available to download – please click here, then enter your country and camera details and select the firmware option to download the firmware. The version 1.2.1 firmware being released this time is for EOS-1D X cameras with firmware up to version 1.1.1. If your camera's firmware is already version 1.2.1, it is not necessary to update the firmware. Please remember to read all of the instructions carefully before downloading the firmware."

Mt Spokane Photography · Mar 22, 2013

RGF said:
neuroanatomist said:

I infer several reasons. Overly contentious to no point, descent into a flame war, old threads resurrected to no apparent purpose have all been reasons I've seen threads locked. I believe an OP can also lock their own thread (or maybe just delete it, not sure...).

Click to expand...

I would hope (which means nothing since I do not have a vote here) if a thread was locked because it was redundant with an old topic, that the admin / moderate would point to key discussions on the topic.

I do not think that threads get locked for being redundant to old topics. Sometimes several members post the same topic at about the same time, they are merged, not locked.

I saw one yesterday where a person asked for help last June 2012, and suddenly someone started posting telling him how to fix his problem. It was probably locked because further comment did not make sense.

There are also those with dozens of flaming posts that need to be stopped, and locking the topic is sometimes the best solution.

Mt Spokane Photography · Mar 22, 2013

Don't do it. Complain to paypal and file a request for repayment. They will return your money.
When a online store does not give a address and phone number on their website, they do not want you to be able to locate them.

I also noted a "In Association with Amazon.com" logo. A search of Amazon USA and a search of Amazon UK does not come up with DWI Camera, and neither does a google search.

mrsfotografie · Mar 22, 2013

Kristofgss said:
baervan said:

I have to say that very small DSLR are very ugly, this being the ugliest of all. I'm sure that it has the build quality of a Bic pen. If it had the smooth design of a NEX for example it would totally hit the spot and I think it would sell like crazy..

Click to expand...

The point is exactly that there is an optical viewfinder in there, so you can't design it flat like the sony. Besides which, if you are used to the Canon EOS series, the design seems perfectly intuitive. I fyou want a NEX, just get a NEX, it's a different target audience.

Same audience, different application

digital paradise · Mar 22, 2013

captainkanji said:
I've been using the Gary Fong lightsphere for awhile now. I've had pretty good results with it. I just got the rogue flashbender with softbox attachment. I'll try it out this weekend.

The GF sphere is OK if you are in a room that has objects to bounce off. As a stand alone like outdoors it is useless as it throws light 360 degrees in all directions. The size of the area at the front face of the dome that scatters photons which actually reach your subject is slightly bigger than you bare flash. Waste of light and batteries. You will have better control in that situation with the rogue. Indoors as well if the area is big like a convention centre.

simonbratt99 · Mar 22, 2013

thanks, yet another gadget im going to have to learn to use!!
Anyone know some standard settings?

nazdar · Mar 22, 2013

Hobby Shooter said:
What's so fuzzy about that sensor btw?

Video is fuzzy, sorry for not to being exact.
Nothig against photo picture quality.

agierke · Mar 22, 2013

it looks as though you at least popped a bit of flash into the scene (bit of a catchlight in the heel of her shoe). was there another strobe source lighting her?

the reason i ask is that you can gel flashes/strobes with a straw colored gel to get better/healthier looking skin tones. she does look rather pink in the first shot but there is a bit of coolness to her skin tone that could use some warming up. fair skinned people often shoot like this and benefit greatly from a straw colored gel.

the 2nd shot she starts to look washed out. any chance you can link to some photos that you find the color pleasing so we have a better frame of reference?

nice shot regardless though. and your b&w interpretation is nice.

jonathan7007 · Mar 22, 2013

I checked my order and my memory was right: ordered and fulfilled from Amazon. I had an interesting discussion with Lexar, too. The long number etched lightly on the end was not traceable by Lexar. They said that oral descriptions over the phone can't prove much but that they are willing to test cards in their labs. The Lexar tech said, though, that the gold color was usually off on counterfeits.

So something was wrong with the first example I had and Amazon didn't miss a beat when I asked to return it; they sent another before I got my bad copy back to them. So far my new one seems OK... have to shoot more with it before It goes to a shoot for $$.

That bad card seems to have made my 1Ds body throw camera shutter errors so I have to watch all the components carefully for a while.

c.d.embrey · Mar 22, 2013

CameraSize.com now has the Rebel SL! in their database.
SL! vs 60D http://camerasize.com/compare/#448,100

RGF · Mar 22, 2013

Not quite a clone, but I have both the Turbo 2x2 (now replaced by the Turbo 3) and the Turbo SC. Pricey but worth it in my opinion. Every few years I need to replace the battery in each unit.

I tried the canon battery pack but never enough life out of it and had to replace the AA batteries (lithiums at $2/each or recharge AA NiMH).

wickidwombat · Mar 21, 2013

cant wait to see the image quality comparisons of raw files between this and the last half dozen 18mp sensors

Posts

Posts

Attachments

Filter

Forum statistics

Gallery statistics