leftofdead said:

The 500 Super most definitely *does* work in the hot shoe of the 7D. I am currently using that combination. I needed to send the flash to Sigma for a firmware update because it was producing extremely inconsistent exposures. I paid for shipping to Sigma, the service was free, as was the return shipping, and it all happened in about one week's time. I was just astounded at how helpful and quick they were about the whole process.

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That's helpful - thanks. I have three late-model 500 Supers and they all behave the same on the 7D: in E-TTL mode, direct flash is always hugely overexposed; bounce flash is better exposed but still erratic. Manual mode works fine. In master mode, it doesn't flash in any circumstances. With a prime lens attached, the flash's zoom head often hunts between settings, e.g. between 85mm and 105mm if a 100mm lens is attached. With a zoom lens (e.g. 24-105mm) attached, the flash's zoom head cycles several times from widest to longest settings before stopping at a random setting. In contrast, all three flashes work perfectly in my 5DII's hot shoe!

I'd like to see if Sigma UK can update the firmware on my units. It would be very helpful for me first to know how long ago you got your update, and also which version of the flash you have. The three 500 DG Super versions respectively had the following inscriptions above the LCD :

ELECTRONIC FLASH EF-500 DG SUPER EO
EF-500 DG SUPER EO - ETTL
EF-500 DG SUPER EO - ETTL II

Thanks for any help you can give.

if you don't need instantaneous capture of all them there pixels, you can totally do that right noow! With a gigapan thingy! Heck, someone made a 270 gigapixel (panoramic) image, haha..

http://gigapan.com/gigapans/66626/

Random Orbits said:

The TC does cost you a stop that the crop body doesn't.

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This is a bit misleading. A TC spreads the light over a larger sensor area, but does not decrease it (significantly). Thus you don't lose light with a TC, merely light density. Another way to put it: Yes, you get one stop less, but that is precisely compensated by the FF sensor being one stop more sensitive (ISO 100 of the 1.6x crop ~ equals ISO 256 on the FF, for similar generation sensors).

Here are some of mine. the first is an 10mm UWA shot, using a hand rail for support. 8/10ths of a sec, Canon 10-22mm at f/4.5 (no IS),

The second is handheld 1/6th second at 50mm with the 17-55 IS at f/2.8,

The third is handheld 1/15th second with the 17-55 at f/2.8 and 55mm (equivalent to 88mm in a FF). IS is your friend

all 40D at ISO 1600. no time to set up anything or influence any lighting -- just grabbed the shot while the guide was giving her speech

The best alternate for canon 10-22 is Tokina 11-16 f2.8. This is one of the best and much better CA and BT than Canon lens. I have been shooting with this for my work, that your can check out here: http://www.digitalstudio.in

Yes. The sound of the 5D Mark II is pathetic. Once of the wimpiest, breakiest, plastickyiest sounds you'll ever experience.

Here is a helpful link from people having the same impression as you and I:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1032&message=38099330&changemode=1

At the bottom of that link there is a link to where you can hear a recording of the shutter sound. The normal mode is bad enough. Some of the silent shooting modes sound even more agonizing than I remember.

AprilForever said:

If Canon nixes Flagship APS-C, Nikon, Sony, or even Pentax will gladly eat the empty market. Case closed.

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Post closed thanks to AprilForever

If the current rumor holds true the 35LII it is!

Hey how can i record video and have it show up live on the macbook screen at the same time. I tried to do it through both HDMI and USB but it wouldn't recognize the camera on my macbook pro through imovie or premiere. I want to record and be able to see whats happening on the bigger macbook screen, live.

Etienne said:

Yeah!

More stuff I can't afford may be available for others to buy soon!

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Yep....... same here......

briansquibb said:

bdunbar79 said:

I haven't done this yet, but on the 1D4 you can set Av mode and minimum shutter speed, to let's say 1/500s. You then turn ISO safety shift to ON, set your aperture, and put in Auto ISO. You can also set EC, so that whatever value is chosen by the camera for ISO, corresponds to your EC value. This is really usefull for indoor sports and I haven't tried it on the 1DX but I imagine it can do this as well.

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My 1DX comes next Wednesday - that will be the first thing i set, apart from RAW and expansion point AF

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Mine too, getting to the store I'm buying it from on Friday.

I just bought a house twice the size of my old one, I bought new Samsung 55" tv and now the 9300 dollar 1d X, and I don't have a job, please give me applause for my dedication to gadgets! LOOOOOL ;D

bdunbar79 said:

After shooting around the house for awhile, I'd like to say that the AWB on the 1DX is actually really, really good.

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Much better than any Canon before.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Drizzt321 said:

neuroanatomist said:

The two lower-voltage batteries in a grip are used alternately, not simultaneously, so no boost.

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I didn't mean to imply that with a grip it can increase the AF speed. I was referring to the fact that as a battery is almost completely drained it can provide a slightly lower voltage. So a battery grip, since it provides more total energy stored, can keep the rated voltage longer.

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The power and voltage of a Li-on battery does not drop off like a regular battery. Circuitry internal to the battery monitors it, and throws a electronic switch when it senses that it is nearly discharged. Any drop in voltage is very small.
This is noticibly apparent in my DeWalt Drill Driver which uses a Li-on battery. It drives screws, even difficult ones with full strength, and suddenly shuts off while driving a screw, it does not fade away like nimh ot nicad batteries.
There is a good reason for this, a Li-on battery cannot stand being fully discharged, if that happens, it cannot be recharged without some special equipment. So the battery may shut down when it gets to 10% or so of capacity.

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Ah, ok. I know Li-ion are a different kind of battery, didn't know that they don't 'wind down', and simply stop discharging when they get to low before any real voltage-dropoff can occur.

neuroanatomist said:

I suspect it's almost inevitable that Canon will release a high MP body in the near future (<1 year), if only to compete with the D800. But...I think it's unlikely that that high MP sensor will be put in a 1-series body - rather, it will be in a 5-series body and have a relatively slow frame rate (~4 fps or less).

So, if you're looking for 1-series durability and speed, get the 1D X. I love mine. If you don't need robust build or a fast frame rate, but higher resolution is at the top of your list, waiting for Photokina might not be a bad idea (but in that case, you'd likely be debating the purchase of a 5DIII anyway, not a 1D X).

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And get ready to wait..... And wait..l. And wait... And be delayed... And delayed

Wondering if they will announce a 24-70 III

Canon make a 58mm center pinch lens cap. Look for a Canon part number HF G10. It's about $1,400 but you do get a free HD Camcorder at that price 8). It's a pity the manual doesnt actually have a part number for the cap itself :'(

I don't believe this rumor. Canon is moving "beyond the still" as the world evolves- their big ticket items seem to be in the cinema/ Hollywood realm. It just doesn't make sense with their brand position.

Hi,

I poked around your flicker for a few minutes. Lots of outdoor work - both wide and long.

I would suggest:

1) Sell the 28-135 your well covered by the other lenses and this lens is not wide on your crop.

2) Purchase Canon 10-22. This will give you wide/UW you are lacking.

For the "next step" I would suggest:

1) Purchase canon t2i - its cheap now and has the same sensor as the 7d.

2) Exchange your 70-300 for Canon 70-300 IS L.

You should be able to adjust the review time to longer (or shorter) in the playback menu somewhere, although I don't think you can set it to automatically be zoomed in.

I had one with a loose zoom assembly. You can imagine who that messed up the photos! It took Canon service three tries to find the problem.

Of course that was partly my fault because I kept telling them that the lens had a front or back focus problem. :-\

nothing "unfroze" the 60 the red light just stayed on and even turning the mode dial didnt work, had to pull the batt. but i think i just needed to be patient haha

pdirestajr said:

I've never looked at my camera's sensors. It would make me feel dirty.

Aren't they behind a shutter and mirror thingy? Maybe they wouldn't be dusty if you didn't get all touchy feely with your camera's private parts?

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Ohhh so I should not touch the sensor after eating hamburgers with my bare hands?

NaturaLight said:

Thanks for the info! (Took me a few seconds to understand the term "wetware"...)

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Alternate term might be PEBKAC, although we might need to modify that to be PEBC (not as catchy or easy to say though...)

If you are considering a 20mm prime have a good look at the voigtlander 20mm f3.5 color skopar SLII I am loving mine its so awesome and a great pancake partner for my 40mm

His website is awesome. Thanks for sharing

2.5-3 weeks for recal repair...id debate one just returning it till the new batch comes out without the grip problem