cliffwang said:

bdunbar79 said:

It's probably the lens, unfortunately. That particular sigma lens is making it do something it shouldn't.

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That should be the 5D3's firmware problem. If the image is fine on computer, that means the image is really no problem. However, when 5D3 resized the image to a 3" LCD, it just didn't compute the output right.

sovietdoc, you should let Canon know the issue, so Canon could fix it in the next version of firmware.

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Turns out it's both

neuroanatomist said:

I can't speak for the 5DIII, but I find the 1D X gives me about two full stops over the 5DII in RAW high ISO shots. A little more than 1 stop directly, the rest due to better quality of noise that's more amenable to NR. So...I was ok with 3200 in the 5DII, and I'm ok with 12800 on the 1D X.

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This is exactly what I am finding with the mk3 too I will quite happily shoot at iso 4000 to12800 which I really didn't consider before

5 D Mk iii pros low light noise slightly better ease of use, the menus are far better organized.
HDR mode for in-camera editting if you're lazy like me
[/list] dedicated live mode button

Consneed lightroom 4 to edit RAW
low energy floresant bulbs at certain shutter speeds smears colors
[/list] weather sealing not as thorough

1d mk iv pros ergonomics
f8 max aperature focusing
[/list] 1d's just hold their value better

I own both, listed both on CL along with my 7d then never returned emails because I can't decide either.

The service form Nikon Europe is definetely better than Canon Europe CPS.

I had the change to test the new D4 and the D800E for some weeks.

The D4 is approximately on the same level like the 1D X. The 5D Mark III is a good deal worse in JPG like the D800E.

If I compare the D800E against the 1 Ds Mark III in landscapes I mzs say that the pictures of the 1 Ds Mark III are sharper and the colors are more even.

There will be a big megapixel camera from Canon in the next month.

Great work guys, I thought I was going crazy when the fours was noticeably off when I was sure I had done the AFMA. Fixed now (was only a prob with the 70-200 F2.8II + 1.4x converter, but it was a massive problem requiring manual focus). Thanks heaps, now I can concentrate on my trip through Canada rather than my autofocus!
;D

BozillaNZ said:

Canon really cocked up on this one. My friend sold his 24-70 I in hope of getting the II soon, but the price set him off. Now he's buying primes (that's worse, for him, financially)

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How did Canon force him to sell his lens?

I'm baffled that anyone would make a decision like that before getting the facts, especially in light of the 70-200 IS II story.

Aperture is set in 1/3-stop 'steps' (default, can be changed in C.Fns) regardless of ISO. Of course, at the expanded ISOs (50, 102400, 204800) are full-stop increments below/above the native range, so in an auto aperture mode (P, Tv), setting ISOs in the expanded range means full-stop aperture changes instead of 1/3-stop.

Not sure if that's what you mean. Can you explain a bit more what you mean?

The 135L is stunning. Love it on both crop and FF. Use it on crop for reach, then swap it on the 5D for distance candids.

I shoot all primes on two bodies. The 135L is one of the keys in my trio of primes. 8)

TexPhoto said:

It is not a good time to buy.

1. It's new, hard to find, priced at it retail, likely as high as it ever will be. Let them work the bugs out, and let the price fall a little.

2. You don't need this camera at your stage. i am not one of those people who think you need a manual film 35mm to start, because 40 years ago thats what they had. But I am one of those people who knows the difference between a photographer, and a gear collector. And when i read your post I think, gear collector. Do you talk more about your gear, or your photographs? Think about it.

You don't need a 2nd body, but if you must, get yourself a 7D. Shoot some sports, and other things that benefit from the high speed shutter, etc.

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A 7D would be a very bad choice - a 1D4 or a 5DIII would be infinitely better

For sports the 1D4 has many benefits, such as AF point metering, auto iso with minimum shutter speed + EC, plus of course 10fps

Nothing wrong with collecting gear either

I have the same combination and yes the speed does take a significant hit. But it isnt so bad if you start with a good focus near the target using an object easy to focus on - ie with more contrast than the objects you are going to focus on. In others words it appears taht if the autofocus has to move a great distance to achieve focus - if feels like forever. After you lock on focus you need to be careful not to loose this focus with the background esp if the background if very far from your subjects. this is my experience trying to use this combo for BIF - its qute a hit and miss. My feeling is that the 1.5x conv is a far more useful combo.

I also own both lenses and have to say they behave completely different.

The 85L offers that beautifull dreamy bokeh, but forget if you want to use it wide open, you better make sure your subject is not moving an inch (very narrow DoF and slow AF). Keeper rate is not so high (but since I only acquired this lense recently, I may need to pratice more). For headshots I stop the lens slightly down to get the whole face in focus (1.6-2.8). For torso shots wide open works well, because due to the longer working distance you have sufficient DoF to het the whole face in focus.

The 70-200 is really fast focussing and my preferred option for subjects that don't like to stand really still (such as kids). I love the clarity and the bokeh when used at the longer end. It works very well for action, and also for headshots. I use it almost always wide open. It's certainly more easy to work with.

I was in a similar dilema a few years ago and thought I'd try a cheap Chinese ring flash from DHGate befor eI spent $$$ on a Canon unit.
I thought that for $70 or so, it was worth the risk, and I am still using and abusing it, and it does the job.
It does the job so well, I haven't even thought about buying a better one, yet.

It screwed on perfectly with my Canon 60mm macro lens.
It also came with various step up and down rings too.

All adjustments have to be made via the camera's menu, but that's no biggie.

Even though it's only about 58mm in diameter, I bought a step up ring to fit my Sigma 150mm macro lens which has a diameter of 72mm, and I was really surprised that there is no vignetting with it (even on my 5D3), even though the opening is so much smaller than the Sigma's front element.

Hmm i better go check mines as well..

iMagic said:

Since the 1 series cameras have their battery voltage at 11.1 and the 5 series at 7.2, has anyone been crazy enough to say rewire a 5D grip to alter the batteries in series and overvolt the camera for faster framerates?

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There are more consequences of adding voltage than faster frame rates. So there's no way I'd even consider doing that. $3500 is a lot of money.

If you mean how many images left on your card, and it exceeds 1999 images, it wil only display 1999 until you have less left, and then start to count down to zero. It only means you have more than 1999 images left.

dengor said:

What is wrong? Do you understand the word "accuracy"? All points works at 2.8, but AF accuracy is different.

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I don't think you have the definitions/understanding. DOUBLE Cross type is different than cross type. You have more cross types in the 1DX than the 1D4. That's the whole point of the camera. It's much better in AF.

Initial impression is that this lens is an excellent walk around lens for someone that doesn't mind variable aperture and really wants to avoid switching lenses. The compromises are far fewer than they were with the older version and looks to be better than most other lenses that cover this range

The beginnings of my detailed review Canon 18-135 STM lens is taking shape http://digital.photorecommendations.com/recs/2012/08/18-135-stm-detailed-review/

I am happy to answer any questions, What would you like to know about the lens?

I hope it comes out soon as my GP-E2 just shipped from B&H and will not work with the 7D till this new firmware update is out.

I hope this firmware comes out soon as my GP-E2 just shipped from B&H. hate to have GPS that will not work with camera till i get the firmware update

scrappydog said:

I have the 24L, 24-105, TS-E 24 II, TS-E 17. My TS-E 24 II is hands-down the sharpest of all my lenses, including the 70-200 f/2.8L II. It is super sharp without the tilt-shift, but is corner-to-corner sharp when the tilt is used properly, even at f/3.5. Although some use tables, LiveView is the easiest way to get that sharpness. My recommendation is to buy a clean used copy. They go for $1,750 USD or so.

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how does the TSE-24II handle flare? I can point my 24LII at the sun and it almost completely kills any flare, in many cases it actually does kill it. For the creatives that like flare they will have a harder time getting that look if the 24LII is any indication of the future.
Um adding to the original post i decided to do what i should and investigate.
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-TS-E-24mm-f-3.5-L-II-Tilt-Shift-Lens-Review.aspx
"CA (Chromatic Aberration) is extremely well controlled - less CA than the EF 24 L II and much less than the original TS-E 24mm L. Utilizing SWC (Subwavelength Structure Coating), the TS-E 24 L II controls flare very well - performing much better than the EF 24 L II and better than the original TS-E 24mm L (review the comparison samples below). Distortion is negligible - slightly less than even the EF 24 L II and noticeably less than the original TS-E 24mm L. Contrast and colors are excellent. Bokeh (foreground and background blur quality) is good."

You just cant go below F3.5 which many who buy a 24 want. But as for landscapes it appears this Lens is the shizz.

Vonbon said:

Razor2012 said:

Random Orbits said:

neuroanatomist said:

rahkshi007 said:

Hi, i would like to ask what is the different between B+W F-Pro and B+W XS-Pro.
i only know that XS-PRO has tinner frame. Are Both have the same image quality and both has coating which easy to clean ?

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F-Pro vs. XS-Pro refers only to the mount. F-Pro is 5mm thick (except CPL), XS-Pro is 3.4mm thick. The coating is identified by the designation of MRC (multi-resistant coating), Nano (MRC with slightly greater light transmission), or the lack of such a designation (which means single coated or uncoated).

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The XS-Pros might be nanocoated by default.

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I think so, Nano isn't an option and only comes with XS-Pro filters.

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Some store still have plenty of older xs-pro without nano coating. They are slightly cheaper and packed in older light blue box. The newer ones would be black box.

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Oh ok, I've just seen the newer black boxes.

Wilmark said:

Razor2012 said:

I had the F4 on the 40D and it's no comparison against the 2.8II paired up with the 5DIII. IQ is close but not in speed.

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Honestly i dont know how you can compare these two lenses. There is a huge difference between F2.8 and F4. Most of my shots with this lens are shot at F2.8. Its so damn pleasing. WHen you shoot with the 70-200 you are usually about 20 or more feet away from the subject and your main desire is to have your subject lifted from its surroundings. I hardly ever try to soot a scene or a large group where i want everything in focus with this lens. I would never trade the 2.8 option for 4.0 at these FLs. Now with the wider ranges, I chose to go with the 24-105 F4 instead of the much more expensive 24-70 2.8 options.

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Exactly, the 2.8 most definately has the 'pop'. For wide I'm using the 16-35II now, but waiting for the 24-70II to arrive.

Its hard to imagine the 135L improving and i know thats been said about a lot of lenses but this lens pretty much never fails. I suppose the glass would somehow be improved with the latest coatings and somehow be made to handle higher resolution cameras. I think their lens lineup is gearing up to support a high mega pixel camera. Shoot i read 5yrs ago about them developing a 50 mp sensor but they were smart enough to not release it since the computer and memory age really hadn't made it very affordable to handle tons of files at that resolution in an efficient manner.

Id wait. Hopefully canon can correct the problem in firmware rather then having to send your camera in

Remembered another way to check shutter actuations - MagicLantern !

Goto into MagicLantern menu, under "debug" menu (Dec 2011 unified version - new version location may have changed). Shutter and LiveView actuations are listed.