I just picked up a refurb 70-200L f/2.8ll to play with so I'm done for now. Pretty good deal for those in need...

Forgot to mention that's from Canon...

My money is on:

OMD size, possibly retro looking, weather sealed
EOS M mount
APS-C sensor
On chip PDAF like Fuji X100s
EVF centrally mounted DSLR style
Physical controls, except for ISO
Rotating and flip large rear touch LCD

Is the studio strobe [supposed to be]synching with a wire or radio?
I assume you find it works without tethering.

Can't be intended...

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Yes, I shoot wireless and it works fine as long it is not connected to the computer.

Thanks for your reply.

Thanks for your reply.

I use it with my Elinchrome wireless EL skyport.

Just a word of advice from 25+ years in professional sales (computers, insurance, real estate). Follow up with a phone call to each person/business you mail a card to. This will approximately double your sales ratio from the cards. Good luck

Primarily Left handed, but a stronger right hand...
I could shoot with either eye now (previously one was weaker than the other) so I use my right eye as that is easier with the camera!

Awesome

Any rumors of an 18-200 f/2.8 L

Jonathan,

Thank you for clarifying that the focal point is behind your intended focus point. Yes, I would expect as I have personally experiencing a need for a negative number coming out of FoCal, with one exception...

I am starting to believe from purely anecdotal evidence (I've tested eight lenses on two bodies numerous times in FoCal and added more actuations to my new 5D3 than I'd cared to) that positive and negative AFMA settings, especially within +/- 5 are more of a 'secret sauce' that translates into a formula the camera uses when giving instructions to the USM focus motors within the lenses.

In other words, just because you select a positive AFMA adjustment for a lens (which should technically focus it FURTHER BEHIND your focal point), does not necessarily mean that it will and could actually bring the focus FORWARD/CLOSER to the camera. Here's why I believe this...

Using the AF Consistency test within FoCal, you can see that certain AFMA values deliver far more consistent AF results than other. There will almost always be at least one ore more "outlier" results at certain AFMA settings where the autofocus missed significantly compared to the exposures.

I always take the AFMA result given to me by FoCal from the Fully Automated test, and go into the AF Consistency test. From there, I select the "AFMA Range" option and enter for the minimum, a value 2 or 3 points FORWARD (subtract from the AFMA result given to you by the Full test) up to 2 or 3 points BEHIND (add to the AFMA result), in steps of 1, with 10 exposures at each AFMA increment.

You may be surprised at the results. The POSITIVE numbers you are getting from FoCal may actually yield more CONSISTENT focus results than negative numbers (which we would expect).

Give it a try at least for one of your lenses and see what you get and set the AFMA setting for that lens in your camera to the AFMA setting which gives you the *most consistent* result with a high QoF (Quality of Focus) score.

If your images continue to miss the mark and focus behind your subject, you may seriously want to consider sending your camera body into Canon for them to calibrate it and ensure it is working to spec.

-Darius

I thought the tech might be wrong/confused. I have been saving the outflow of images to that SSD. the C drive is an SSD too, but I want them separated. This isn't about installation, just tethered image flow and chosen destinations.

I just reported it so we'd all know where they stand.

jonathan7007

Phil,
I think I said above that I don't think this [previous]owner ever used live view. It's so much a studio or location "set" function and he is a retired doctor who loved photography. I don't blame him and he asked me to keep him informed about what I learned bout the problem. All my senses and experience lead me to believe he did not sell me the camera knowing it is flawed.

And it might not be flawed.

In another thread I added my testing that showed the card that ws in the camera -- a Lexar 64Gig 400x UDMA7 -- was faulty, and I hope that the Error30 was brought on by screwed-up communication between the camera and laptop caused by the card. Swapping cards and lots of shooting with the body has NOT shown any problem since. And today I ran through FoCal testing with three lenses; target aiming calls for live view use. I was worried but again, NO problem so far.

So, if the card was all the problem I had (and Amazon is replacing the card) then hooray!

I really like this body. It feels and sounds great. The files are wonderful at lower ISO and with plenty of light, or more exactly, exposure.

Others with this body have communicated their good service records: few issues and lots of live view without ANY hiccup. I did do a lot of reading before deciding to buy a 5 to 6 year old model of Canon. It fits neatly into a kit that includes a 5DMk3.

I now have to decide -- if going out for a third body -- backup -- which I'd buy? I don't shoot sports so no 1DMk4. Not going to worry about it right now but that decision will be upon me soon, and this 1Ds is wonderful as long as the Error30 was a false alarm.

Thanks for you comments, Phil.

jonathan7007

Found this video. Maybe it will help!

https://vimeo.com/40759341

I am currently looking for advice on this too. There are so many options on this camera so I think it may take a while for me to figure out what I like.

jrista said:

I do, however, also take photos of landscapes, in which case ISO 100 is king and better DR is the most important thing. I am not one to push around shadows by four stops...I think that makes a photo look terrible. I would, however, like to be able to push my shadows around as much as I need without having to bother worrying about banding noise, or have to deal with running my RAWs through a tool like Topaz DeNoise 5 to get rid of any banding that exists in the shadows. I can recover a LOT of DR in my Canon images these days with a tool like Topaz DeNoise (at least a stop, if not two with some careful and meticulous tweaking), but...its extra work. It takes extra time, and isn't quite as good as a better sensor that doesn't have banding noise in the first place.

That said...clean, random noise in the shadows (i.e. once you have removed banding) can, as Ctein's article states, actually help improve "DR", or what he calls Exposure Range. Adding a little bit of noise back into shadows when you have to apply heavy debanding can actually help restore detail and extract even a little bit more dynamic range. (That was really the point I wanted to make by posting the articles, guess I should have known it would create a monster DR debate.)

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Agree ... If I were shooting primarily landscapes, I would choose the D800 over the Canon offerings.

BTW, i dont agree that this is a "monster DR debate". on the contrary, this is the most reasonable DR debate I've seen on this forum for a long time.

Thanks for posting the link!

Both the lens and the camera can be adjusted, but only Canon can adjust the lens, while those with AFMA in their body can adjust that body for a particular lens.

You can send your 60D and lens to Canon, and they can adjust both of them to specification. I had my 35mmL adjusted at Canon Irvine, and now it is right on for all my camera bodies.

Most of the time, new lenses are pretty close to perfect as received, but I have received a few that are off by enough to be detrimental to my images.

I don't recommend getting a fast f/1.4 lens for a 60D due to no AFMA, and its a particular issue for third party lenses, because Canon will not adjust them to match the body, so you must send the lens to its manufacturer and the body to Canon, and hope that fixes things.

Sigma has a new lens adjustment tool that works with their new high end lens models, so that should help if you pick one with owner adjustment capability. In that case, the adjustment is in the lens. The drawback is that the lens may need different adjustments on different bodies, so its not a ultimate solution.

Hmmmm... Just my personal opinion, so please take it with a grain of salt. But overall, this image is fairly uninteresting. The sky is lacking of any detail (not your fault, obviously), so I wouldn't worry so much about keeping the exposure there and try to boost the exposure in the barn. And while I realize you mentioned you're not a fan of PP, I would add a gradient to the sky to keep it from blowing out if you do attempt to boost the exposure of the barn.

Increasing the contrast couldn't hurt either, since the image feels a bit flat to me.

Just my $0.02.

Here are some shots I got with my S100 last summer at the St. Louis Zoo

J.R. said:

There is so much that is ignored these days - composition, lighting, shot set up and so much other relevant important stuff that makes you wonder what the hell is going on.

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That pretty much describes every watermarked snapshot ever posted online. I suppose watermarking snapshots is some bizarre form of self-flattery I've yet to fully understand ;D

Watermarked snapshots for life ;D!

You still need to let the mirror come down in order to take a second exposure. Mirror lockup is just for one image.

For landscape, its more of a focal length choice than a lens choice. Typically you use them at small apertures to get depth of field, and, at f/16 for example, they are all very similar.

You are paying big bucks for fast lenses that you can use wide open.

AF speed doesn't come into play for landscape either.

Its possible that something else is causing your issue, such as a damaged or misaligned lens.

astevenscr said:

3kramd5 said:

marinien said:

tomscott said:

Although the 17-55mm F2.8 IS is the full frame equivalent of 27-88mm F4 IS

The 17-40mm is 27-64mm F4 on crop

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Just to avoid some confusion:
The 17-55mm f/2.8 IS is the full frame equivalent of 27-88mm f/4.5 IS.
The 17-40mm f/4 is equivalent to 27-64mm f/6.4 on crop.

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You don't lose a stop and a half by cropping. You must mean 'as it pertains to DOF'. Just to avoid confusion.

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Furthermore, I think this example can't be quite right for even DOF. Note that the o.p. says:
The 17-55 is the full frame equivalent of 27-88 f/4.5 IS; AND
the 17-40 f/4 is equivalent to 27-64mm f/6.4 on crop

but how can the equivalent f/stop for DOF purposes increase both when you move to full frame and when you move to crop? Or am I missing something?

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Oh sorry! I wanted to use the same words as tomscott. He certainly understands the conversion, I think he had juste typed too fast . A longer statement would be:
The 17-55mm f/2.8 IS is the full frame equivalent of 27-88mm f/4.5 IS on crop (I ignored the "on crop" in the previous post because the 17-55mm is a lens for crop bodies).
The 17-40mm f/4 is the full frame equivalent to 27-64mm f/6.4 on crop.

@3kramd5: thanks for the added detail, yes, I meant DoF equivalent.

Does anybody know if Zeiss 100 f2 makro is going to be updated any time soon?

Yes. The 32GB. No problem so far, very fast download on the Computwr with the Lexar (!!) 3.0 cardreader.
Have several 16GB 600x, never had a problem.

Why not get a used 5d2 and a shiny new lens and enjoy both worlds? A new 6D offers more than the 5d2 but its priced much higher ... Unless you need the ergonomics, weather sealing, GPS and Wi-Fi (and it looks like you don't).

"Investment", if I use that word, is best made in a lens as it will outlast the camera body you buy and also retain its value (especially if you are buying an L lens).

Dylan777 said:

KKCFamilyman said:

Dylan777 said:

A few months ago, you almost sell your your 5D III + lenses to settle for 6D + 24-70 f4 IS. ADN NOW..........you want 1D X? ??? : :-\ ;D

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No i was in a light gear phase. I cured that with a sony nex 6. Then I was in a 1d x phase but thanks to the advice of you fellow canon rumor chaps i will go for a new lens. I am thinking the sigma 35mm.

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For light gear phase, I went with Sony RX1 - small enough to carry around and takes amazing photos.

If Sony or Fuji come out FF build in P&S body like RX1 with exchangable lenses ...I'll sell all my Canon gear

Here are some photos from RX1:
http://albums.phanfare.com/isolated/nkq0gb6m/1/5981795

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I agree that is a nice camera. I just have a hard time investing in such an expensive single fl camera. Nice pics

It depends how deep your pockets are. He wants your 60D, battery grip and some cash. Offer him the Tokina 12-24 lens instead of cash. I think the Tokina is APS-C and not full frame. You'll need your cash to buy lenses. I don't know the fair prices of your stuff or his so I am guessing. You may have to sweeten the pot with $500.00 cash plus your gear. That would really help him out. You and he could swap memory cards and you both save a small amount of money.

When the 70D comes out and if it has the specs that you want you could buy it if you can still afford it.

I think a 5Dll in good shape is a still desirable camera to have.