Thats very good advice, although ive never had any eyesight problems, and I think you're refering to using a prism finder on the hasselblad? because there are waist level finders easily avalable, is there a diffrence between them and on on a rolli tlr?
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I did indeed find a distinct difference between the waist level finder on the Hassy and that on the Rollei TLR.

And I could never get a good view through the Hassy, while the Rollei always works for me.

Try one and see. You might have no trouble at all...

Thanks everyone, I've received a lot of good tips here. The website comparison you provided Z did a great job of letting me check out the sharpness of the various lenses (especial at the corners and at different apertures). I already own a Canon 17-40mm and a 24-105mm, looks like I'll use the 17-40 for most shots within this range and the 24-105 for anything above. The corners look really soft on the 24-105 in the corners wide open but the 17-40 is a complete work around. If I'm working in a more low light environment I'll just stick with my Canon 50mm 1.4 as it's tack sharp for these types of shots. Thanks again!!

Congrats! The 5D M3 is a great camera.

drmikeinpdx said:

Thanks for the recommendation Neuro. I ordered that one from B&H. It's worth a bit more to get one that fits.

Now I need to buy a lens to fit my Hong Kong ring!

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How over sized is it? I bought a "better quality" Fotodiox Pro collar for my 70-200 f/4L IS from Amazon that didn't quite tighten completely. I ran 2 strips of quality electrical tape around the inside of the collar and now it is rock solid...

Hey all. I am just starting out with strobes and was wondering if you could recommend a wireless trigger for my set up.

I currently own a Pocket Wizard Transmitter and Receiver but they are expensive. I have been using it for a few years now to trigger my off camera speed light (430 exII). Now I am adding a strobe to the mix (Alien Bee 1600) and was wondering if I should go with the CyberSyncs?

Thanks 8)

Great review, and you have some amazing images up on your site.

I also like the post on Visualization. Great stuff.

Mark D5 TEAM III said:

What do you mean "don't show in the user list so they were deleted"? Shouldn't that be the other way around? What are your criteria for deleting usernames? I definitely don't fall into the categories "CR Backup Admin" has mentioned. I can still search for my old posts. Yes, I'm the 100th person to register for this forum after the reformat. But I was already very active even before there was even a forum and we all just commented below the actual article. That is why I chose that username, it was an in-joke during those times before there was a forum (old-timers here would know the "joke" ), same with my signature (another in-joke, used by another poster in an article comment thread then ).

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If you are not in the user list, your account is gone, that's what he means. When a user is deleted, there is no entry in the list. Posts from the user may remain, but his name is shown in black, not red to show that he is no longer a user.

What was your old user name? Can you post a link to a recent post if there is one. If you have posted recently, I might be able to find out what happened, but the history disappears pretty fast from the logs with thousands of entries a day.

It seems very unlikely that a moderator or administrator removed you without some good reason. I'm sure that one of the mods would have mentioned it by now if they recall anything.

jrbdmb said:

Well, at least the problem with the 5d III can be corrected over time, and at around $2900 new this issue may already have been fixed. Fixing an underspec'd 6D on the other hand ... not so easy.

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But it is - sell the 6d for €1200. The 6d as well as the 5d3 have weaknesses, obviously the 6d more than the 5d3, and "underspeced" for the 6d is only related to the competition (d600) and the current price. Just like the 5d3 is also just another camera and there are better current models (1dx) and there will be newer replacements to come, maybe sooner than later.

In the interest of adding to your confusion...I would check the specific printing company's equipment.
This method sure looks interesting..."Adobe® Extreme Printing" and Progressive Printing with a DCS Direct Jet Flatbed Inkjet Printer

John Strung said:

Personally, I use live view, set the shutter to a 20 second delay and fire it using the infrared remote.

But in this case, I still thing the blurriness is caused by thermals rising from the canyon.

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Interesting thought, John. I would never have thought about the rising thermals. Thanks!

Thanks for all the great responses. Peterson generally recommends putting the foreground elements very close - f/22 is pretty much necessary when you do that.

polarhannes said:

Instead of focussing to infinity you could focus to the hyperfocal distance which can increase the effective DOF. You most probably already knew that and still need more DOF, but I thought I could mention it. Of course this does not deal with all issues, especially if your foreground is pretty close.

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I have tend to shoot most of my landscape shots at f/8 or f/11 focusing at or near the hyperfocal distance for the lens (or estimating 1/3 into the shot if I don't have time to look it up with a zoom lens). I plan to experiment with Peterson's f/22 method, maybe improved composition can help make up for loss of sharpness and sharp edge/halo effect in some cases?

notapro said:

I've replaced the batteries, and everything is perfect again. How nice to have so easy a fix. I'm glad you suggested the battery possibility, Studio1930.

Thanks to everyone who's chimed in on my question. This forum is a wonderful place.

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No problem. I have a set of triggers that sometime lag a bit with weak batteries as well.

I got some 380 custom brackets thing. I think it is the best bracket ever for anything.

Photog are one of the types of geek that can be buff and tanned. Take advatage of it. Sell the f4, use the f2.8 work out.

ed24 said:

Hello CR crew,

I'm in the market for a nice 35mm prime, pref some thing old with a little character. I purchasea Carl Zeiss 2.4 Prakticar PB mount and unfortunately it striked the mirror on my Canon 5D Mark III. Anyone know of any nice 35mm lenses that work well on this body? Full manual is fine as I'm mostly shooting video over stills.

Cheers,

Ed

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Canon 35mm is soft but has creamy bokeh

Sigma 35mm is super sharp but has very busy bokeh

Zeiss 35mm is the ideal all around, almost as sharp as the Sigma with better bokeh than the Canon.

That's all there is to it.

neuroanatomist said:

Robert Welch said:

For me, overall, I prefer the 24-105L for portrait work, but for more general purpose work, the 24-70L II is probably the better lens, over all.

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Not sure whether to be frustrated or grateful after reading this. I'm getting the 24-70 II, and had planned to sell my 24-105 this week. But you've got a great point - the flexibility to go from wide to a headshot is very useful. I'd not use it outdoors (where I prefer fast primes to blur the background), but rather indoors with a backdrop and monolight+Speedlites in softboxes. In that situation, I'm stopped down a bit because I've got plenty of light and no need for background blur, and as you say, perfect sharpness isn't usually necessary or even desirable.

If nothing else, I suppose I should hang onto the 24-105 for a while.

(By the way, I'm grateful - thanks!)

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I'm suprised you take that long to pull trigger on the sharpest zoom. I don't see the point keeping 24-105, unless you want to collect dust with it ;D

I check out a new camera or lens with focal almost immediately. Its a good tool if used correctly to help determine if there is a issue.
I didn't have a issue with my 5D MK III from the first batch, but Canon was churning them out, so a inexperienced assembler or tester could have let a bunch thru that were not up to snuff.

Its a software fix, Canon puts the camera on a test fixture tethered to a pc runs the calibration tests, and writes updated parameters into the camera firmware.

Thanks for all the input everyone. I've decided to keep it and convert to IR if/when a replacement comes to market that I deem a substantial enough upgrade to retire it from everyday use.

I searched the forums and see that Oben Tripods have only been brought up once and it was about 2 years ago, hence my post.
I am looking at picking up a new tripod this Friday and B&H has this Oben carbon fiber tripod on sale (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/768034-REG/Oben_CT_2300_3_Section_Carbon_Fiber.html.) I was hoping someone on here may have had some/any experience with the Oben brand as there really are no reviews of these and even customer ratings are hit & miss depending on the model (some have no ratings while others have a bunch.)
My questions concern the Oben brand and tripod features in general.

• First, the weight rating for this tripod is 10.4lbs. Is that how much the head/legs combo can hold, or is that the weight the head can hold without fear of creeping?
• Second, are twist lock legs better than flip locks or is it just a personal preference thing?
• Third, the head included has a single adjustment lever and I'm wondering if that will be something I'll kick myself for later? I don't do a lot of video (some I guess) and mostly do handheld for shots of the kids, so not sure if I would really need separate knobs for pan and tilt? The tripod would be used more for landscapes/cityscapes/astrophotography.
• Fourth, what of the Oben brand? Does anyone on here use one? Are they any good? I know I can't expect rock solid results for the price, but if the legs are good I can always get a better head when I can afford it.

Sorry for the long post with all sorts of questions, but I don't like having buyer's remorse when I can't get in my car and drive it to the store for exchange/return.

neuroanatomist said:

sagittariansrock said:

neuroanatomist said:

since the RAW image has to be acquired and converted to jpg even when shooting RAW only.

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???

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When a RAW image is captured, a JPG conversion is done in-camera to create a small preview image, and that JPG preview is saved within the RAW file container. That JPG preview is what you see on the rear LCD of the camera after the shot, and importantly, it's what's used to generate the histogram data and the highlight alert if you use those features.

It's worth knowing, because many people think that the in-camera settings are totally irrelevant if recording RAW images - that's mostly true (long exposure NR is an exception), but if you make exposure decisions (e.g. ETTR) based on the histogram, the settings for Picture Style (contrast, etc.), ALO, HTP, white balance, etc., are all applied to the JPG preview image and the histogram data/blinkies, and that can affect your exposure decisions. Some people actually use a modified Picture Style that makes the JPG image more closely resemble the RAW file in terms of exposure.

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Makes a lot of sense now that you've explained it. Thanks, that was very helpful.

My experience between AB, Einstein, Hensel, Bowens, Norman and assorted Chinese strobes was that the color was virtually identical at medium to full power with color shifting on all (except Einstein) as the power went below about 1/4 or 1/8.
For almost all my work I need higher outputs so the color shift is not really an issue.
The differences for me lay in size, modifier mount and maximum output.

The ABs are great value but I note inconsistent output at low settings. I also do not like the mounts but otherwise a great tool.
I have friends with Dynalite and have admired the compactness and quality of the units. They are very happy with the quality of light.

A note that I would make is that the ringlight is rated at 3200Ws maximum INPUT. The images above were powered by the 2000 Ws power pack. It is no slouch but it does not deliver 3200Ws.

ideaworx said:

I am shooting with 70-200mm II 2.8 and 85mm 1.2, both pretty snappy lenses.

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Dump the 85L f/1.2; it is probably the worst lens for what you are describing.... though very high quality, it is notoriously slow in AF performance. 70-200 f/2.8 II you list is a good fit. If you absolutely must use a prime, then use the ones with faster AF's depending on what is available to you.... 85 f/1.8 or 135L or 200 f/2 etc all come to mind. 200 f/2 is rather pricey and not in everyone's bag; the other two, especially 135L autofocuses quickly and is a longer medium tele.

But putting autofocus aside, as RLphoto suggested, prefocusing in the zone may be a better bet.

And, take shots in burst mode. While 5D3's 6FPS may not be blazing fast... it is probably better than taking single shots. Best of luck!

hi
I have the same issue
has anyone discovered what makes this strange buzzzzzing?

If you're talking about a 2 shot (+12 / -12) or 3 shot (+12 / 0 / -12) horizontal panarama (2.5:1 aspect ratio), the resulting effective image sensor size would be 60mm x 24mm, or an effective crop factor of 0.6x (24mm would become a 14.4mm; 17mm would become a 10.2mm).

If you're a 4 shot (+12 at 45°, 135°, 225° and 315°) for an approximately 3:2 aspect ratio photograph the resulting effective sensor size would be 53mm x 41mm (53mm x 35.3mm when cropped to maintain the normal 3:2 AR) with a crop factor of 0.68x (24mm would become a 16.3mm; 17mm woud become an 11.6mm).

If you own the 70-200II already, just add the Mark III 2x tele converter.

If not, the 100-400L is canon's best offering at the moment for decent birding.