I said I'm not a pro....but I am in my field. I'm a pro freelance videographer. Through the years I've shot not only video but 35 and 16 motion picture film and 4x5 and 8x10 view camera projects but by far the lions share of my work has been with video.

I know the 7D is great for airshows. I've carried both to shoot with. I'd love to buy a 5DIII but since I don't make a living shooting stills it's hard to justify buying one. I bought both current cameras used but with very low shutter counts. It will be a while before the 5DIII comes down to where I bought these two cameras for. I guess I'll wait before selling to see if a really nice 300 2.8 shows up for a good price that I can afford.

I have a 500mm F4 IS (original, not II) and could not get the foot loose (I got the first screw loose but the 2nd would not turn so I gave up). Any suggestions besides stronger torque? I tried using a small allen key - perhaps that was my problem.

accidentally found this, so I thought I'll share, though you might have seen it already...

relax with a 24-105 of a 50mm under your head

http://www.homezooka.com/2011/07/photography-enthusiasts-plushtography-lens-pillows-home-trend-house-trends/

dilbert said:

Is there some reason why Google won't answer this question for you?

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Google does have the answer to most questions, doesn't it.

However, I had never even considered buying my CF cards from the US before, and only discovered they were almost half the price of the UK by mistake. That's why I wondered whether other CR members in Asia and elsewhere outside the US, buy their cards there. Google probably couldn't answer that question, though it might be able to once it finds this thread. I also wondered whether the US was the cheapest, or whether I had missed somewhere else.

In fact this little discovery (for me at least) means I might be buying a bit more than just CF cards from the US in future.

Hello,

Long time reader / first time poster. I recently purchased the 24-105mm lens as an upgrade of my 28-135 lens. From the reviews I have read, it appears the 24-105's performance at 105mm is not as strong as other focal lengths. When I shoot at relatively close distances at 105mm with my 24-105mm lens using the center focus point, the center performance of the lens appears fine but the corners appear out of focus rather than merely soft. I've looked at images from distances between 10-30 feet and noticed the same results. The corner performance at 105mm with subjects at or near infinity focus is fine (about the same as my 28-135mm but not as good as my 70-300L, which is about what I expected). Perhaps the increased depth of field at infinity focus explains this. Stopping down to F/8 also helps, but does not completely alleviate the issue. Applying an AF microadjustment of +10 on my 5D III improves corner performance; however, the center performance then deteriorates - the same also happens when I focus on the corner of the frame either through live view or the viewfinder. As all the corners are out of focus to approximately the same degree, this does not seem to be a centering issue. Has anyone else experienced this with your 24-105mm lens? Is this typical behavior for the 24-105mm lens? Thank you in advance for your comments.

rcarca said:

rpt said:

Fantastic pictures. The last time I shot Gulls, the shutter speed was 1/800. Too slow. A learning...

Thanks for sharing.

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Thanks... one of the glories of the 5Diii in my mind - you can push the ISO to get the speed and still have a vaguely usable picture. All I need now is the L lens to complete the set up!

Richard

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My thoughts exactly - however, that costs $$$$$$$...

Your kit is fine. I guess you could sell the 5Dc and 100 f/2. You don't really need them do you? If you need a second body then keep the 5Dc.

I would also sell the 24-105 as you have a 50 and 70-200 that covers most of that range. Do u often shoot wider than 50? If so maybe sell that 24-105 and get a 35L or sigma 35.

If you went on a shoot you could then have a 35 on one body and a 135 on the other. Sorted. Two bodies two lenses. Plus the fifty in your pocket just incase.

Keep the the 70-200 for days that require some versatility.

I do agree that having one lens that covers wide to telephoto is very useful. I sometimes wish I had the 24-105L. However, if you are serious about portraits primes are the way to go. An 85 and a 135 and you're all set.

I also think one of the cheap 50's might be worth investing in. They really come in handy and on a FF you can can work in some real tight spaces.

So many ways you can spend your money that it really depends on your own shooting style. We could advise you all day long about this lens and that. But at the end of the day only you know what you actually need.

Specified in the camera and lens specifications 0c is the minimum temperature. That in itself is enough to void the warranty. You are operating the equipment out of its purpose design.

Kernuak said:

FaiWaaep said:

East Wind Photography said:

Other issues are with cracked LCD screens.
Just note that it's extremely dangerous to Canon equipment to expose to temps below 0C. It also voids the warranty.

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About the LCD screens. My experience is that the cold only makes them work "slower" especially those which are touchscreens. I've used outdoors at winter time different kind and sizes of LCD's over 15 years and never had any screen cracked from cold. Same about LCD's in my pocket or DSLR cameras over the years, no problems from cold weather.

And about the warranty issues if you use the Canon lenses in cold weather conditions. Here in Scandinavia it's expected that you use your equipment in very cold weather too. I haven't had any problems about the warranty when using my lenses in cold weather conditions.
Just week ago I got back my EF 70-200mm f/4 IS from Canon's service. The USM-motor was broken. And when I pick up the lens from the dealer I check all the functions of the lens in out side of the shop (it was -15'C then) before I accept the warranty repair of the lens. No problem with the dealer about my tests or warranty issues by the dealer nor Canon service. Even they know that I had used the lens in weather conditions from -30'C to +45'C. I get the normal 6 month warranty for the service work. So it extend my warranty because the original 2 year warranty was going to expire just after two weeks from the day I bring the lens for repair.
Of course I can tell only my experience's and maybe some countries it voids warranty.


If you take pictures in very cold weather it's a good idea to take a plastic bag with you. And before you go back inside the house put the gear in the plastic bag, close the bag and don't take the gear out of the bag until it's warmed up to room temperature. This is to prevent the formation of condensation on glass surfaces etc.

PS. Nice Aurora, thank's for sharing

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Thanks, I did leave it in my bag for several hours when I got back, so that it could warm up gradually. There is also nothing in the manual about low temperatures voiding the warranty, although it does mention that high temperatures could cause damage. I would therefore say, that even if they could find a way of determine what temperatures it was used in, they would have difficulty justifying not repairing under the warranty legally.

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I have seen that sentence sooo many times "Overpowering the sun" Well, how often do you shoot with the sun directly behind your subjec AND with the attention of still keeping the sky dark blue?

What I have found to work great, at least since I mainly use one light, is that I shoot with the sun more to the side and use it as a rim-light, and then the added bonus is that I can use a polartizer since I'm 90 degrees to the sun. If I shoot with the sun directly behind my subject I often go for the flare-type shot and even then I can get some good detail in the background at 400Ws, the issue with power is if you want the sun towards the camera with 2 stop underexposed background and you have both diffusers (of the Deep octa) and the deflector, doesn't happen very often in MY case at least.

I have the Quadra-head mounted to the Octa at all times, it's like just having the Octa, it's soo small and light, about the size of a 50 L, but one third of the weight...

This example is just one of my facebook-uploads so it isn't the highest quality, but hey. (god I miss my mac, it's being serviced) And I wasn't near the limit of 400Ws on this shot. Shot with only outer diffuser. Very hard sun.

Zen said:

A great shot. I like #2 a bit better; there's more detail in the right-most bird's neck.

The water looks like liquid gold!!

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Thanks Zen. Much appreciated.

Richard

Thanks skangerland! I knew it had to be a high megapixel camera.

Frankly I'm surprised that Nikon lens could go that sharp, must have been a good copy. ;D

Thank you all for your input! As I said, I frankly don't see its performance that far behind the Canon 100-400, based on the tests I've seen online, and on the images. Really the main thing that hobbles the sharpness is the OS. (And the OS really is 4 stops...where Canon's 100-400's is only 2). Kind of seems like some of you skipped to only the criticisms of the lens, and forgot the positive aspects.

As I said, the 50-500 didn't look any sharper in the tests and photos I have seen online. It also costs $1500, weighs 6 pounds, is not f/5.6 at 400mm...I could go on.

As for the 120-400 not actually being f/5.6...I don't see why that would be? It has the same proportions and front element size as the 100-400...so unless you think that one is also not f/5.6 (along with the Canon 400 f/5.6 prime)...I don't really see why it wouldn't be f/5.6?? In fact, that kind of comment seems like some kind of silly snobbish slam on Sigma, based on rumor rather than fact.

In any case, at this time, no, my budget won't allow for spending $1600 on a lens, and then another $2200 on a full frame body (preferably that's with a 24-105...especially it won't if I decide to get a 5D3 with 24-105, rather than a 6D). So...no...it's not better to just wait and save up for some huge expensive lens. Not at all. If I need one of those, I rent one. And no, I am not making money from my wildlife photography, do any of you?

The Canon 100-400 just is not worth the money to me. If I had loads of disposable income, I would just collect the latest supertele lenses like some of you, but I can't.

As for the 50D's AF being not all that great...maybe it's not, but it works pretty well considering its age. I doubt the 60D's works any better. Even the mighty 5D3's system is lacking, compared to the 1DX.

Get a Nikon D7100 imo. Suggestions from owner of both 5D3 and D7000.
10 Thoughts on Being a Photographer - John Greengo

its a dof issue... unless ur a landscape photographer u not really bothered the other end and all lenses tend to go to f22

Now I know why I want to go to Maine~

TexPhoto said:

The G15 does not have a built-in intervelomitor, so you will need a shutter release with one built into that: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=aputure%20timer%20rebel&_sop=15

Here is an article worth reading: http://cheesycam.com/canon-powershot-g15-compact-vacation-time-lapse-camera/

For shorter time-lapses, (less than 30 minutes) I often just shoot video, then speed that up.

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Thank you sir for the valuable comments. You helped me a lot

TexasBadger said:

I think fing lights for portraits are creepy! Unless you are going for a vampire effect. Wait a minute, can you photograph a vampire...

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Only in live view. Since vampires don't reflect in mirrors, the viewfinder will be blank on an SLR.

neuroanatomist said:

With birds, you usually need all the focal length you can get.

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Ain't that the truth

Well, then the 300 f4 IS USM might work. It gives me a constant aperture and with a 1.4x TC on a crop body I get the equivalent of 672mm at f5.6. It would be lighter than the 100-400; I retain AF and at the native 300 FL should be sharper but at 400mm and beyond, its performance may not be satisfactory

The 500, or 600 f4L IS II USM would be perfect: that is if I had $10-12K to spend on a lens

neuroanatomist said:

Don Haines said:

and never try to hand-hold a lens that won't fit in your boot

and Neuro is right.... an apartment is a flat

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Wait, wait...boot...is that the things on my feet today, to make it easier to walk through the 11" (or is that 28 cm?) of snow that's fallen so far here in Boston...or is that the large compartment in my car where I carry groceries, etc.? Because a 70-200/2.8 won't easily fit in the former, but an 800/5.6 will easily fit in the latter.

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How about either? BTW, I have a pair of size 13 boots that I use in the far North that you could slip you 600 f4 into.

I have the same problem. Can't update my signature, user name, profile at all, haven't been able to for a month. AE-1 ranking.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

mrsfotografie said:

agierke said:

sounds like there may have been impact damage upon shipping. there should never be an abrasive feel when zooming/focusing an L lens.

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Ha, the focus ring of my 24-105 has gotten a little abrasive due to desert sand getting in there (fortunately not in the lens itself) but only if you push it beyond the stops. It's still a killer lens though

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There are no stops on a 24-70mmL, or on a 24-105mmL, or any of the USM lenses with full time manual focus. They have a slip clutch and that is what allows full time manual focus. Try it, you can keep turning the focus ring as long as you want and will not reach a stop. Of course, the lens elements have a stop, but the focus ring is designed to keep turning without any damage.

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Yep. It has a slip-clutch and that's what I meant with 'pushing it beyond the stops'

QwRad - I have same camera, lenses and Kenko TC as you discuss. They seem to work fine. What do you mean by "both had AFMA adjustments by lenses..........etc"

Learning moment here.......

Agree that G-12 is a good bridge camera. I can attest that it's very durable as I drug mine all over Africa before I bought my MK III. Plus - it allows him some room to grow if he so elects. it has several easy to access adjustments that are easy to learn. For video, it's much easier to hold and control than a PS. I do have the filter kit and it gives nice flexibility.

Love the colors especially the first one, good Job!