I know its been awhile but Im going to post both Large jpegs from the 7d and 40d both shot same settings with 17-55 2.8 IS and at 2.8 wide open in case you are wondering. I dont know what I am doing when testing but heres to crops of the label. In the 7d you can actually see definition from the printer where as the 40d is smooth and doesnt show it.

If I were going - I'd bring the longest glass I owned, for the birds and wildlife. I'd bring a 24-105 or similar, and I'd bring my 28/1.8 for whatever night time fast lens and/or wide use. And I'd bring one of my M4Ps, with a 35/2.0 and some film, as backup.

I travel much, hate to be burdened with gear.

Instead of trying to immerse my technology into my environment, with me behind it, I'd rather immerse myself into my environment, and use whatever I've got. Based on images I've got from the early 70's, when all I had was a match needle Nikkormat and a 50/2.0 lens... I can say - less is more, for me.

I just ordered mine through Spam Removed she got me no tax and free shipping they close at 7pm central time or leave a message she will hook u up!

Finally, very basic post-processing with spot-metering off the shadow side of the church. The 1D4 did a better job than the 3 in metering here, IMO. Again, very basic processing and if you are interested in the RAW files, please ask. I definitely, if I were shooting for real, would have chosen a different time of the day looking at the glare and purple fringing from the highlights. Maybe upwards of 2 hours later.

I see you have the Sigma 18-50/2.8 in your equipment list, I've thought about that over the double-the-price Canon for my 40D + 60D. You happy with the Sigma's performance? I'm strictly a hobbyist, need a fast lens in that range - astrophotos, granddaughters and general mucking about.

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Optically I really can't complain at all, really nice, good centre resolution throughout even wide open, I have the older non OS version without HSM which isn't all that fast or all that quiet (the EX DC Macro - the plain EX DC wasn't quite as nice) the macro is immensely usable, but because of the short length forces a closer working perspective.

I bought this particular lens for video, so AF speed didn't enter into the equation at all. I wouldn't be all that happy using this specific lens for sports, though it's no worse than the kit 18-55 IS I used before. My old 17-40 may have been a bit zippier, but I suspect it was actually just a bit quieter.

Heres the review from photozone (usually pretty reliable) on the successor lens, with HSM (though not FTM) and OS.

http://www.photozone.de/canon-eos/531-sigma1750f28os?start=2

My other half always have a great way in expressing things, she said the 1D X is a
Toy for Big Boys, and coupled with the Pancake it simply look gorgeous.

Daniel Flather said:

Your link is dead, and I'd like to see what it is you're referring.

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http://www.insideflorida.com/photo/197/

Try that one, not sure what happened on the last one. [EDIT: Was the same image, lol]

Cheers

AdamJ said:

...the Wimberley C12 clamp is advertised as fitting the retaining lugs on the stems of, among others, Giotto's ball heads so I'll probably go with those. It's an expense I could do without but, you live and you learn.

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Indeed. I started with the Manfrotto RC2 system before I 'learned'. I have a couple of the Wimberley C-12 clamps and they work very well. I've used them with plates from Wimberley, RRS, and Kirk, all clamp in securely.

to: cariewang

I send this wish to Canon, but Canon dont want to put this function in the 1D x or 5D Mark III.

With a trick its possible. Save some settings for stills and a settings for video. If you want to record video on the other card, change your overall setting to your video setting and after the video shot for still setting.

If you have the 5D Mark III use C1 to C3. C1 und C2 for stills settings and C3 for video settings. If you turn to C3 the vid is saved to your CF programmed in your vid settings.

Prices do change over time based on market conditions. In the case of a poor world economy, or a problem with the camera that scares buyers away..

nickwees37 said:

Nick Gombinsky: Thanks for the detailed insight! Is there any word on how pricey the new cinelenses will go for?

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At BH they already have the 8mm cine version and its priced 50 USD more... I guess the rest will follow the same trend, maybe a bit more on the more expensive models...

If you use facebook, search for the Rokinon page and like them. You can ask them about upcoming lenses, pricing, availability, and they'll respond shortly after.

I have purchased Zeiss 2/25 at last. I compared both 2/35 and 2/25, both have very sharp and contrast IQ. But 2/35 has very strong CA, especially when we shot metallic or shining surfaces.

While 2/35 is the cheapest modern Zeiss lens ($950), 2/25 has tack sharp IQ even wide open. Almost as good as my 2.8/21. I haven't try with my 5DMk2 + Lee Holder to test vignetting and IQ since its filter size only 67mm. This filter size is one thing that make we worry. Why don't they make in 72mm or 82mm?

PS: i try 2.8/15 too... it's super duperlicious, but the price is way too highhhh....

I checked out a 135 f/2 from around 1998. It was visually in mint condition and a couple of hundred dollars less than a new lens. But it felt a bit stiff, probably through lack of use. Given the choice of a new lens for another $200 or so vs a 14 year old lens, I walked away. But it did sell. I'll be getting a new 135 f/2 with warranty and CPS qualifying credentials.

The car analogy someone made is probably a good one. A 15 year old car with VERY low mileage will still have its issues that relate directly to age. Seals, bushes, hoses etc keep deteriorating over time.

I guess it depends on why you want a particular lens. If your livelihood depends on 100% reliable performance, most second hand purchases must be very carefully considered. But an enthusiast with a modest budget definitely should be looking at pre-owned glass. And then there are collectors like my friend Rob who pounces on Leica mount lenses that are as old as my grandfather.

Personally, I like 'em new.

PW

Well done ;D. Very pleased for you. Have fun

This sucks, brand new 1Dx and getting Err 01 with one of my lenses 24-105mm that I got sometime ago wit 5d mark ii kit, all other lenses are ok, just this one. But if I take this lens with other camera I am fine, no problems. I did try to clean the lense connectors but no luck. What should I do? Somehow only 1Dx does not play nice with this lens. (((

It will only be harder to focus if you open up the aperture lots and are very close to your subject.

Anticipate the action: Research when the show begins, ends, and how high the fireworks will be. Secure an unobstructed view by arriving early, and then consider the background and foreground of your shot. Try different zooms or interchangeable lenses, and experiment with buildings to give scale and anchor to your shots. Use the first few bursts to finalize your lens, focal length and framing.

Let the fireworks do the moving: You'll need a long shutter speed and a perfectly steady camera. If you have a tripod, use it!

No tripod? Find a solid surface at head or waist height with an unobstructed view. Use something soft to balance your camera. A Ziploc bag filled with beans or rice will hold your camera steady once you've pressed it down firmly.
Shoot for a long exposure: Fireworks take a second or two to burst, so leave your camera's shutter open for that long. If possible, choose T mode (shutter stays open until you press the release twice). Alternatively, choose B mode (shutter stays open for as long as you hold the release). Avoid camera shake by pressing gently and holding your finger steady, or use a remote release cable. If all else fails, try your self-timer!

Control the exposure: Control the brightness of the fireworks by setting your aperture. If it's too wide (ƒ2.8) you'll lose the rich color, so start with a setting like ƒ8. Use the very beginning of the show to review your results. Focus? Use infinity.

Avoid flashes: Not only will a flash not reach that far, but the fireworks are the lighting! Turn off your flash.
Keep your ISO low: There will be plenty of light from the fireworks, so keep the ISO low (such as ISO 100) and you'll avoid a noisy image that may spoil the fireworks' brilliant effect.

Think about focal length: If you want the fireworks to fill the frame, consider how close you are. You already made a guess on framing, but be prepared to re-adjust your zoom or fit a different lens. Try a wide-angle if you're close.
Pay attention to firework frequency and variety: Leave your shutter open from just before the burst until just after. Once you know the burst height, watch the ascending trail to know when to press the shutter release.

Get ready for the finale! You'll need to widen your lens focal length and point the camera higher to get several bursts into one shot!

Thanks for the advice. I am about to buy mine. but I am still bit confused :-\

bdunbar79 said:

The 24L at 1.4 on the 1D4 looks sharper to me than the 35L on the 5D3. Also, the 24L is looking sharper and less flat out of the camera than the 5D3 w/35L.

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Interesting did you post images up? I couldn't see any thanks for checking into it for me though

Canon also says it sounds like a clock battery issue and the those other settings are not dependent on it.
But after just going through motions I've found that removing the battery grip then reinstalling the camera will not boot.
The camera function perfectly without the grip. So I'm pretty sure I have defective grip and waiting to see what Canon's response will be. I hope it will just be a case of sending the grip in and not the camera too.

Last night I did donate to the ML team and installed it on my T2i, I like it a lot but I don't know if it is a deal breaker that I can't have it on the new camera. The photography factor is definitely effecting my decision also though, as I have attempted to do headshots with my T2i and I feel somewhat limited, even compared to the 7D. BTW all my lenses are EF, not EF-s.

Oh yeah, and autofocus, while cool, is a zero factor because as was said earlier, no real cameraman uses autofocus. I don't think I've used autofocus while shooting video since before film school.

I appreciate all this input, right now I am definitely leaning towards waiting, maybe I'll pick up a mirrorless camera or something to keep me entertained until the new FF camera is out.

When I had my 7D and 5D Mark II, I actually had picked up a 1D Mark IV for sports at the time too. So I ended up selling both the 7D and 5D Mark II for a new 5D Mark III. As the price will indicate to you, the 5D Mark III blows both cameras out of the water. It can do everything both the 7D and 5D2 can do, plus additional tools. If you have the funds, you won't regret it one bit. I liked it so much for what I was doing, I purchased another one.

Hello, newbie here.... quick question

I had a 20mm/2.8 USM and hood that got stolen with some other photo gear.

I liked the lens, so naturally I replaced it. Problem is, the new hood wont stay in place, no matter what.

The hood is the Canon one, not aftermarket. You align the dots, give it all of 1/4 inch of twist and its "on".

I tried another Canon hood, thinking I had a bad hood. Same thing.

So now my mind is playing tricks on me. I seem to recall that the hood had that familiar "click" and locked in place when mounted. Am I going nuts, or did something change? I used my first 20mm a fair amount, but just about never took the hood off, and neither did it ever fall off. On the new lens and hood combination, the hood rotates darn near on its own, cuts off the corners when doing so, then just falls off the lens. Hanging my 5d2 from my side and walking about with the lens and hood, will result in the hood falling off.

Any help, greatly appreciated!~~

I noticed that the first time I rotated orientation and my AI Servo switched to One Shot.

But, I turned off the orientation sensitive AF point feature since that's what causes the AFMA bug. Hopefully a firmware update will fix that soon.

Just bumping this up to see if anyone has any ideas?
Trying to capture birds in flight. I guess I have two use cases I'm trying to master:
Q1. Already focussed on a bird, and want the AF to follow it when it takes off and flies (more or less) towards me.
A1. I guess that AI Servo is correct here. I have also set the AF so that all focus points are used.
When the bird takes off towards me then the camera AF just does not follow it, in fact it makes no attempt.
The selected AF points (the ones in focus) just stay where they were in the background.
I have tried all AF cases and they dont seem to make a difference.
My conclusion is just that the bird is too small, and therefore does not register.

Q2. Set up the camera so a bird will fly from the left into frame as it lands at the right of the frame.
In this case the bird is a lot nearer and therefore fills out a lot more of the frame. Also tried using my
24-105 at around 50mm instead of the 70-200 so that the amount of time the bird is crossing the AF points is longer.
A2.Still, I cant see the AF trying to follow the bird, not matter what case is used, using AF Focus.

I have read the 1dX Autofocus guide, but still dont have the focus tracking the way I had hoped it would!!.
Are there any showstoppers (e.g. aperture) that I should know about that may interfere?
Would anyone be prepared to say which settings they would use?
As I'm mainly trying to shoot small birds, are they maybe too small for the AF? Too fast?
With AI Servo, taking a fairly large object, get it in focus, slowly move the camera then the AF points
try to stay on the object, so it doesn't seem to be totally broken.

Just found this:
Canon EOS 5D Mark III - Tutorial AF Area Selection 1/14
It talks about "Large and rapidly moving objects", not small birds I guess.



Thanks in advance.