Posts

OnceUponaHoneyB · Mar 8, 2013

Shots look great the TS-e's seem like fun

OnceUponaHoneyB · Mar 8, 2013

Nice shots! Second one is quite good without a tripod

tgara · Mar 8, 2013

OP, the behavior you see is due to Auto ISO. Take it off of Auto ISO!

picturesbyme · Mar 8, 2013

Did a few -about 8- of them with blurb in the old times. The provided free software is prob. the best one out there (not counting AI or CS of course). Also you can sell the book from blurb's store.

However the print quality was prob. the worst. The images - that print perfectly at any size from 4x6 to 16x24 or even at 20x30 at a variety of local print stores and mpix - looked like they were printed on a matrix printer.

If you are going for Blurb make sure you read around on their forum: http://forums.blurb.com/forums/5/topics/13515
Plenty of posts like this and interestingly they get closed very quickly

Wish the issues would be fixed that fast but I guess policing a forum is just easier.

My next ones will be from a place where I can get quality and layflat books.
I'm also looking into the Chinese connection.. If you're not worried about sending your high res photos to China to a relatively unknown (by us/here) company their rates and quality is pretty good:
http://www.alibaba.com/trade/search?IndexArea=product_en&SearchText=photo_book_printing&moqf=MOQF&moqt=MOQT500

Bottom line I'd check a few reviews: http://thedailydigi.com/12-different-photobook-printer-reviews/
There are some more if you google them with detailed info which prob. will help you more than what we say here

alexanderferdinand · Mar 8, 2013

If I were you- and I think thats the point- I would take my best equipment.
This is my 5D3, the Tokina 16-28, the 24-70, the 70-200 and the 1,4TK.

And the Sony RX100 if I am at a place, where I cant bring the big stuff.

Depends on you, how much you can and want to bear.

Best wishes for the trip.

mrsfotografie · Mar 8, 2013

Zlatko said:
My logic clashes with your prediction of the future, not with reality or facts. If you look at Canon's lens lineup, there is lots and lots of duplication. How many versions of the 70-200? And of the 70-300? There are four 50's. It's not a stretch to conceive that maybe the 24-105 is not being replaced by this 24-70.

Yep, why stop a bestseller?

How about this marketing scenario: Sell the 24-70 F/4 with a camera kit. People buy it and later if they want some extra range in one zoom, they have to buy the 24-105 also. Double money

Rienzphotoz · Mar 8, 2013

risc32 said:
distant.star said:

.
I don't trust anyone who doesn't know how to say "ISO."

Click to expand...

Between that, the fact that he's wearing a t-shirt with a sport coat, creepy calm, he's clearly light in the loafers.... yeah, a weirdo. he seems like a serial killer, and i wouldn't trust anything he says.

That's a bit mean but didn't stop me from LOL ;D

Mt Spokane Photography · Mar 7, 2013

I'd use a inexpensive photo scanner, since you plan to have your picks drum scanned. A inexpensive Epson photo scanner will be plenty good for evaluation. I bought one listed on our local Craigslist for $5 as a backup, since I couldn't pass it up for the price. A V600 is more than enough for reviewing prints. You can use it for other things as well.
You can profile scanner colors, but they will likely be just fine for a review or even for 8 X 10 prints. I use mine for scanning my old photos and negatives that I got when my father passed away. Some of them go back over 100 years, the negatives go back to about 1940. I'm intending to do all of my slides and color negatives, but slow to get going. I'm doubtful that any of them are worthy of anything other than what my scanner can do, they are mostly snapshots. Its the old Polaroids that need it first, Polaroids were popular in the mid 1960's to 1970's and the color one are badly faded already. Many will be barely usable.

Kumakun · Mar 7, 2013

I live in Japan and bought my Canon 7D and 5DIII over here. Both come with multilingual menus (Japanese, English, and a whole host of other languages). Nikon, Pentax, Olympus--even Casio cameras you buy over here have multi-lingual menus.

Sony and Panasonic do limit their menus. The Japanese market version features only a Japanese menu. I had to buy an "overseas model" RX100 to get an English menu, at a premium (about $70-80 more than the Japanese version). I had been considering a NEX mirrorless system at one point, but for me the menu-gimp has made the Sony MUCH less attractive.

As for the OP--I haven't noticed any differences between my 7D and any of the American market 7Ds I have seen.

expatinasia · Mar 7, 2013

dolina said:
GM5561T if you want the most compact and light weight monopod that has the highest load capacity.

Thanks. I already have a monopod that can hold up to 15kgs so won't be buying a new one.

This was more about the lens choice for renting, and I am glad I asked as I had a feeling I should have gone for the 400 2.8 II which is what most here have confirmed.

Dantana · Mar 7, 2013

Maybe you should rent the 70-200 2.8 IS II for a weekend and see how much of a difference it makes for you.

sagittariansrock · Mar 7, 2013

hgraf said:
Hello all,

I'm a "serious" amateur with not much money.

I'm starting to branch out into some easy working gigs (family portraits, pet photos, baby photos), nothing too pro, mostly just a taste to see if it's something I want to dive into more seriously (I THINK I'd really love to do wedding photography, but that's a little beyond my skill at the moment).

I have a 650D/T4i, a VAST upgrade to the 1000D/XS I shot for years with. Since it basically has the same sensor as the 7D it takes what I consider to be very nice pictures.

I long ago upgraded from the kit 18-55mm to the 18-135mm. I found the difference dramatic. My T4i came with the kit 18-135mm STM lens, which is rated even better then the original 18-135mm IS, but frankly image quality wise I don't see a vast difference (it is shaper at wider apertures, but not by a huge amount).

That said, the 18-135mm STM is still a kit lens, and while it is an amazing single lens solution for travel, I do wonder if it's "good enough" for outdoors portait type shoots, especially if people starting paying me money.

So, with all that said, I've looked into things and ALOT of people recommend that a good "next step" is the EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6. It's not L glass obviously, but it is supposedly quite an upgrade from kit glass.

Would I notice much of a difference? I know there are other a couple other common options, but they are all quite a bit more expensive:

EF-S 15-85 f/3.5-5.6
EF-S 17-55 f/2.8

The 15-85mm is about $200 more then the 17-85.
The 17-55mm is WAY more, obvious since it's much faster, constant aperture. Alot of people say that lens is a L without the L designation.

According to DXOMARK there isn't much difference between my 18-135 and the 17-85 or 15-85. But alot of people say that DXOMARK isn't very close to real life. The 17-55 DOES score much better, but it's out of my price range, plus I don't like being limited to 55mm on the long end.

So, any advice? Is the 17-85 worth the upgrade? Should I stick with my 18-135 and save up for better glass?

Thanks for any advice!

I was in a similar position a year ago. I had the 28-135 and felt the need for a 15/17-XX lens. I bought the 17-85 but in a few months decided to upgrade.
My main reason for upgrading wasn't so much image quality as it was low-light performance. So I ended up buying the 17-55 after trying both the 15-85 and the 17-55.

In your situation, I give the following suggestion based on my (humble) experience:

The 15-85 is better at the wider end, with much less distortion (at 15mm, compared to the other one at 17mm) and is quite sharp wide open. I believe the image stabilizer is also a generation newer, and the build is much nicer. However, the IQ of the 17-85 is quite acceptable, especially if you stop it down 1 stop. In fact, I think some of the criticism of the 17-85 is unjustified- I quite liked the lens and my copy was actually comparable to the 15-85 wide open (although I hear there is some sample variation there). However, the price of the 15-85 is more than double (used)- so if it is a question of buying a 17-85 now or waiting for 15-85, I'd go with the former. In fact, you can use the extra cash to get an 85/1.8 or a 50/1.4 (depending on your preferred focal length for portraits) and that'd be better for outdoor portraits anyway.

If you do upgrade later, then I'd pass on the 15-85 and go for the 17-55. Of course, you mention the shorter range is an issue for you- I admit it irritates me as well- I'd have preferred it to be 85mm, but what can one do about it! The f/2.8 IS clinches it for me.

emag · Mar 7, 2013

70D is expected later this month (March). I expect it to be a worthwhile upgrade from 40D or Rebel series, but maybe less so from 60D - the logical step up from there is the 6D, much cheaper than I expect the 7DII to debut at. AFMA and WiFi would be welcome, as would a body-only price in the 1k range. Neither the 60D nor the 40D will suddenly start taking crappy photos when the 70D is released. I think Canon may be making great strides in crop sensor performance but wouldn't expect to see the best there is in the 70D, that will go into what I expect to be a shockingly high priced 7DII. Just my $.02

RLPhoto · Mar 7, 2013

I like the g15 as it is already. I use mine from ISO100-400 push to 800 if needed but what I'm really using it for is its ridiculous 1/2000th flash sync speed.

simonbratt99 · Mar 7, 2013

Thanks Dr Brain.

Mar 7, 2013

I suppose I'd wait two weeks, just to see what the feature set of a 70D (if that's what's announced) looks like.

But as for, 'everyone is not really happy with 7D', sorry but that doesn't make sense. Well, it does in the sense that not everyone is ever happy with any particular product. People like to complain. But for bird photography, the 7D is one of the best cameras available, and it's the best camera in it's price range. AFAIK, the only better options for shooting birds are a 1D-series body or a 5DIII, and in both cases you'd ideally want to pair such a body with a lens longer than 400mm.

I've got a set of bird shots on my Flickr stream, and while a few of the recent ones are shot with a 1D X and 600/4L IS II, most of the images are from a 7D + 100-400L. For $2700, that's an excellent value and a kit that's ideal for bird photography.

Mar 7, 2013

woollybear said:
Do I understand you correctly...zooms...short end tested at 25x and 50x, long end tested at 25x and 50x, and intermediates tested at 25x and 50x...

So a 70-200 would involve 6-10 tests with distances ranging from 1.75m to 10m?

And the results (5diii) would be an average (mean or median?) for the low end and an average for the high end?

And if you'll indulge me one more question...you run a complete, separate series of tests when using a TC?

Correct. The number of intermediate focal lengths I test depends on the zoom range, e.g. for a 2-3x zoom like the 16-35mm or 70-200mm, I test just one intermediate focal length; for a ~4x zoom like the 24-105mm or 100-400mm, I test two, etc. So for the 70-200, that's a total of 6 tests - 70mm, 135mm, and 200mm each at 25x and 50x the focal length.

The newer AFMA bodies (including the 5DIII) can store separate values for the wide and tele ends of zoom lenses. I use the two distances and the intermediate focal lengths to help guide the choice - the values I enter are a compromise between the distance(s) at which I usually shoot with that lens, the effect of focal length on DoF, etc. For example, with my 100-400L at 50x focal length, the FoCal-reported AFMAs at 100,200,300,400mm were 0,0,0,1 and at 25x focal length they were -3,0,-1,2. The values I selected were W=-1 and T=1.

The camera does a simple linear regression between the W and T values to apply AFMA at intermediate focal lengths.

Yes, with a teleconverter I do a complete separate set of measurements (6 for the 70-200/2.8 with the 1.4x and 6 more with the 2x).

FunPhotons · Mar 7, 2013

Oh yes, for me. Photogs love to repeat "it's not the camera" but one reason I love photography is because of the equipment.

I'm a computer engineer by day, so when I need a break taking a mini-computer out into the world is an extension of that
I love the challenge of having just the right kit for a shooting situation
I enjoy using it, holding it, taking care of it all

There's nothing wrong with that at all, I also enjoy getting great shots (not enough of those)! I'm tired of some photographer who is proud of his beat up, scratched and dented camera, like it proves he works hard. That just proves he doesn't know how to take care of the equipment for his professional livelihood.

xhermitdashx · Mar 7, 2013

I believe the best combo for you is actually the tamron 24-70 vc with 6d/5d (depending on your budget)
reason for the tamron: GREAT vc, works extremely well
Rather smooth focus rings, obviously not as smooth as canon's offer, but i think its enough.
of course, f/2.8
CHEAP PRICE! nearly half of canons 24-70 ii

Menace · Mar 7, 2013

Dylan777 said:
If budget is not an issue, why not get THE BEST ZOOM lens on the market(24-70 f2.8 II). Especially, FF upgrade in the future.

24-105 F4 is too slow for crop, not a great lens for indoor. sharpness is

Agreed. If you can afford it and it's wide enough at 24mm for you then do get it. Ofcourse in the future when you go FF you'll already have a great standard zoom.

Cheers

CarlTN · Mar 7, 2013

pgsdeepak said:
I did not try the 70-300mmL yet, but after reading all the reviews, I am kind of convinced, I should go for it!!!!

Glad to see someone actually winding up following the advice I gave! Unfortunately, I am not following my own. I decided to try a Sigma 120-400. It's 40 to 60% cheaper than either of the Canon L zooms, and I need to conserve money (unlike some people on here...hey I'm envious of ya!). I'm enjoying it on my Benro carbon fiber monopod.

RGF · Mar 7, 2013

alexturton said:
Hi all.

I have the canon 50mm 1.4 an the canon 85mm 1.8 using on my 5d3.

I'm constantly on a quest for shallower dof. I do a lot of street photography.

My hesitations on upgrading to the L lenses are (other than cost):

Will I actually see a noticeable difference in dof?
The 50mmL has a pronounced focus shift narrower than f2.
The 85mm 1.2. is slower af than the 1.8

My question is will I see much difference between 1.4 and 1.2 @ 50mm and 1.8 and 1.2 at 85mm?
Also, does anyone know if the sigma 85 is any good? And similarly is it worth going from 85mm 1.8 to 85mm 1.4?

another way to shallow DOF is to have a very long lens - not exactly true since DOF for the same magnification is the same, regardless of the focal length.

Or you could go high magnification, e.g., macro.

wickidwombat · Mar 6, 2013

love the shoe shop one, the fact the vendor isnt wearing any makes the image

nice work

Mar 6, 2013

So why don't you show everyone examples of great street photography taken with a Canon camera and a 85 - 135 lens?

I can show you examples countless, famous street photographers, from the 1950s to now that have used that elitist Leica stuff and 21 - 50mm focal lengths...

Don't take my word for it though, try Google

ET

Drizzt321 · Mar 6, 2013

If you want to get a quick idea of what the final print might look like, get a decent photo printer. I have the Pixma Pro 9000 II that I got for a deal from B&W when I got my 5d3. Works great, can even pretty some moderately large prints, and ink lasts a good bit and isn't quite an arm and a leg. Then send off the images you want to someplace like Bay Photo. Or if you're in a major metro area like LA or NY, there's a couple of good places still around (speaking for LA here), although I haven't tried them yet. I really should.

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