Thanks for your ideas, I went back and worked on some of your thoughts.

My other flashes work okay so that means it must be in the flashes foot.

Here is what I discovered if the flash leans forward it does not work but if it leans back it does, the weight of the flash is what keeps it from working. I wasn't able to pop the top off as I couldn't see how. But by pulling gently back on the flash it would work.

I also found that if it clamps shut, locking it will not work, but if the leaver is put almost all the way closed to hold it in but not locked it seems to work even when angled down. So if I don't lock the flash in it works fine and it seems to be held on good enough so it is more usable this way.

Thanks a lot for your thoughts and input on this matter you were a great help.

Cheers,

This issue sounds like it is tailor made for a fun experiment. I've taken a good number of pictures at concerts before with generally poor results. I had always used a P&S, which only had autofocus capability, and I had always assumed the poor results were due to the lens. I don't have a 50mm f1.8, but I do have a 40mm f2.8 with its own ridiculously small focusing ring. Next time I go to a concert in which I can bring in a camera, I'll put the pancake on my DSLR and try both auto and manual focusing and see what happens and post results. That said, I have no concerts scheduled on my near-term calendar so perhaps others can try this experiment and report back. Posted images of the same scene shot on manual and auto-focus would be fun to see too.

Hm, not sure how I would do that. I mean, each photo is different. Could you give me some hints, please?
Would a UV filter help in this situations? UV is advertised as a filter that removes blue cast.

Marsu42 said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

I might also consider magic lantern and focus peaking once the software gets out of the early testing stage.

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Um, my usual comment: On other than the 2012 cameras ml is stable and proven for years - though on 6d and the op's 5d3 you have indeed to wait for the official release.

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I've used the current ML beta for 5D3 and it works pretty good for focus peaking. The downside is it's impossible to see it when shooting in daylight.

I've also used AF confirm chips for this. The only problem is if using an adapter, you need a chip that has programmable AFMA in it because the thickness of the adapter is greater than the AFMA span in the camera. Unfortunately I haven't found a AFMA programmable chip that works with 5D3. I've found some that work great with 5D2, 50D, etc., but not 5D3. The non-AFMA-programmable chips seem to work with 5D3 but that rules out using an adapter.

Review of the Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM lens review

http://www.dpreview.com/news/2013/03/06/just-posted-canon-ef-24-70mm-f2-8l-ii-usm-lens-review

glongstaff said:

Fleetie said:

glongstaff said:

at least its got a lens hood as part of the package, a lot that canon could learn from on many lenses possibly

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As far as I am aware, all "L" lenses come with a hood (if one can be used with the lens, anyway) and a pouch or other container. (The 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS II comes with a very nice zip-up white semi-stiff-fabric carrying container.)

Also, some time ago on here, it emerged that in some markets (far-east, IIRC) at least some of the non-L lenses come with hoods, but not here in the UK.

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Its the Non L Series lenses I was meaning mainly......but I'm sure I cam across an article not so long ago on a site selling on eof the L Series lenses where the hood was extra

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I fell for a fly by night grey market offer a while back...my 70-200 f/4 L came without hood...also I wasn't quick enough to follow up, so clearly my own fault. But got a good price and the lens was tack sharp...so no regrets. But I am told all major legitimate dealers include the hood on all L's here in the US regardless of US warranty or grey market.

privatebydesign said:

Thanks Roger, and welcome to the forum, I knew I had seen that picture in the blog but couldn't remember, or find, which post it was in. I am glad my memory hasn't failed me completely

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And thanks for mentioning it. I try to read all of Rogers posts, but certainly missed that one.

This is what I use...but sparingly and as I mentioned I use a Q-tip and then a dry one to wipe off any excess. You are not soaking the contact just cleaning the surface. This is what is used in the aircraft industry for contact reliability.

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.299/.f

I have purchased used lenses in the past for cheap. Supposedly had AF problems. The contacts were cleaned with this stuff and the AF issues went away. I've since sold the lenses for more than I paid. Granted the contacts were in very bad shape but this stuff cleaned them completely. For most you are better off not touching the contacts at all but there are times when a cleaning is necessary, especially if you notice AF issues or getting strange error messages on your camera.

neuroanatomist said:

Of those, you won't find either of the IS versions for less than $3K (and if you see one posted for that sort of price, it's a scam). You might find one of the older, non-IS versions. But those are a significant risk - they use electronic manual focus (like the current 85L II), Canon no longer services the non-IS versions of the lens, and AFAIK parts are not available. Therefore, if the AF fails, you have a club/doorstop/paperweight, since you will not even be able to manually focus the lens.

You might want to consider something like a Sigma 120-300/2.8 OS lens, or a Canon 400/5.6L.

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+1
You might find one in your price range, but its very unlikely to be working, they are worth that much for parts.

privatebydesign said:

I was bored so had play. Just took out the power lines and pole, trimmed the trees to get a better look at the second window etc. Just for fun, hope nobody minds..........

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Thanks!! That made me feel a lot better.

sandymandy said:

bad luck......i wasnt there to snatch it! 8)

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Sometimes a package is left back by design! Because "not nice" things are in it... I'd suggest don't snatch

killswitch said:

florianbieler.de said:

You know you can fix that yourself, right?

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Do tell. Thanks.

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#

Explained here in english and a method I would very much prefer is explained here but only in German, try google translator or anything.

Haven't tried it myself but somebody told me that they loaded an image with a 2.35:1 aspect ratio on a card, popped it in the camera, played it back and taped the LCD based on that

Should give you lines that fit your screen instead of having to do a lot of complicated measuring

Mbpics, thank you! Yes, to each their own...we Canon people don't fear the big dial. It's almost like if our cameras were cars, they would have 26 inch rims...hahaha.

I'm envious of your D700...as I've said before, I don't think I've ever seen any picture done with a D700, that didn't look fantastic in every way!

Yes I agree, I need to try perfect resize, I just haven't gotten around to it. I've been leery of trying trial versions of software...but I'll make an exception in this case. However....what if they come out with a new version in the next couple of months, right after I buy this one??? That wouldn't be enjoyable...

karen.tao said:

I had the same problem with a 3rd party battery and the 6D charger. It worked a few times and stopped working.. I thought it was because it was a 3rd party battery, so I bought an authentic Canon LP-E6. However, it wouldn't charge using my 6D charger. When I took it back to the store, they charged it using a 3rd party charger and it would charge. So I took it home and tried again with my 6D charger and it worked. This is just a guess, but I'm assuming it won't charge if it is completely flat, but it will if there is a little big of charge in it already.

This is ridiculous.

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Actually, its a safety issue, but then to some, safety is ridiculous.

Safety requirements
If overheated or overcharged, Li-ion batteries may suffer thermal runaway and cell rupture.[52] In extreme cases this can lead to combustion. Deep discharge may short-circuit the cell, in which case recharging would be unsafe.[citation needed] To reduce these risks, Lithium-ion battery packs contain fail-safe circuitry that shuts down the battery when its voltage is outside the safe range of 3–4.2 V per cell.[35][44] When stored for long periods the small current draw of the protection circuitry itself may drain the battery below its shut down voltage; normal chargers are then ineffective. Many types of lithium-ion cell cannot be charged safely below 0 °C.[53]
Other safety features are required in each cell:[35]

• Shut-down separator (for overtemperature)
• Tear-away tab (for internal pressure)
• Vent (pressure relief)
• Thermal interrupt (overcurrent/overcharging)

These devices occupy useful space inside the cells, add additional points of failure and irreversibly disable the cell when activated. They are required because the anode produces heat during use, while the cathode may produce oxygen. These devices and improved electrode designs reduce/eliminate the risk of fire or explosion. Further, these features increase costs compared to nickel metal hydride batteries, which require only a hydrogen/oxygen recombination device (preventing damage due to mild overcharging) and a back-up pressure valve.[44]
These safety issues present a problem for large scale application of such cells in Electric Vehicles; A dramatic decrease in the failure rate is necessary.

Yeah I just got one to use on the eos m its a nice lens really well built no full circular but its very wide
I've ordered a dandelion chip to add af confirm to it so far using it with ml focus peaking is good

AvTvM said:

TrumpetPower! said:

So go ahead and switch to Nikon already. They're a reputable company that makes good products. You obviously prefer theirs to Canon's, so what on Earth is keeping you as a Canon customer?

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hehehe .. the usual fanboy crap, wehn they up against the wall.
No I do not want to switch to Nikon. I want a new, improved EF 100-400/f 4.0 (!) - 5.6 L IS II with MTF like the new nikon and at a price not higher but preferably lower than the new Nikon. To go along with the other Canon stuff I got.

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Where is my Canon EF 100-400 f/4-5.6 L IS Mk I??? ;D

trigwynt said:

(...) would like something a tad smaller that I can take with me when I'm out and about with work. (...)

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Have you considered something even smaller like a Canon S100/S110? It will fit in a pocket, and I believe is a much better camera than the SX500/600 unless you need the 30x zoom. (I'm personally buying a S100 myself.)
Daniel

We are getting a bit off subject, but I use both lens hoods and filters for protection. I was shooting in this past snow storm and the lens hood kept the snow off my 85L (not weather sealed) and my 70-200 f/2.8 IS II. The inside of the fuzzy hood was white with snow but the lens/filter was dry.

MichaelHodges said:

Basically, at low ISO (less than ISO 800), there will be no meaningful IQ difference between the 7D and the cropped 5DIII

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I'd disagree with that.

I noticed a significant improvement in sharpness and low ISO noise (especially in blue skies) with the 5D II and 5D III. Those cameras lost their edge when shooting wildlife with a 300 prime, however.

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Were you comparing images from the FF bodies cropped to the FoV of the 7D (and with the same lens)? That's the scenario to which I am referring. Using the entire image from the FF sensor, it will have an IQ advantage over the 7D at lower ISOs as well.

FatDaddyJones said:

I'd love to see your national park landscape photos. Post them here! I'll post a few more later, but I want to see yours!

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Took this a few months ago in Olympia National Park



Got a lot of landscapes here, but I was surprised how few of them are actually in national parks

jrista said:

Just out of curiosity, what makes a DO lens with dispersed particles more effective than the diffraction gratings they use now?

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Good question.

Canon has not given up on gratings, here is a patent released in 2012. http://www.faqs.org/patents/app/20120212821

I can only rely on Canon's statement in the patents, but the diffraction varies radially which allows for less CA, but thats assuming the particle dispersion bends the various light rays correctly.
The gratings are one dimensional and use a glass lens to bend the light.

Here is some reading material, there will be a test tomorrow if we can find anyone who understands it well enough to grade the answers

http://www.faqs.org/patents/app/20110317276

Tell us where you think you might remember where you could have possibly heard something about this vaporware.

I personally just use my hands. But that's just me.

Probably not worth selling that one off, but a nifty fifty has its name for a reason.

drolo61 said:

IQ-wise: EF 24 2,8 IS compared to EF-L 24 1,4 II?

Is the 24-70 II really up to prime IQ at the wide-end wide-open?

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The 24 2.8 IS is close to the 24L II IQ wise, although the 24L II is still a little bit sharper and has less vignetting at comparable f-stops.

And yes, the 24-70II can match the performance of the 24L II and 35L and is sharper than whatever exists at 50mm for Canon. It is weaker at 70mm than at 24mm, but is still very good. The main advantage of the L primes now is their max aperture.