Nice. I really like the first one with bike blurred in the background.

Cheers

Thank you for the compliment, Tgara.

tgara said:

Those are beautiful shots, Roman! Thanks for sharing!

Click to expand...

I have to agree on Syl Arenas speed lighting book. Just a suggestion, but check your local library. Our library has this book as well as other photography books on E-book formats for checkout.

sdsr said:

Area256 said:

What is interesting is the D7100, which is looking like a very impressive camera for the price. The new 7D mark II (based on the current rumors) looks like it'll trash it, but at twice the price. So I would guess that Canon will want to make the 70D a reasonable competitor to the D7100 at that price/feature level - which would bring it up a fair bit from the current 60D. However given what happened with the 6D's spec sheet vs. the D600, anything is possible.

Click to expand...

The D5200 has Nikon's first recent non-Sony (24MP) sensor, and some of the reviews I've read complain of banding in shadow noise starting around ISO 3200. I hope the D7100's sensor, which is different still, will be free of that particular problem....

Click to expand...

That's interesting. Who will we rely on to tell us, dxomark? Since it's a new Nikon product, you just know they already have done the review...

The 24-105 is fantastic. Have to use lens correction for the wider range, but it's very good.

ISO 3200, f/8, 1/13, 35mm, Canon 6D

Bought used 7ne for about $100 from Adorama about 5.5 years ago when my EOS 50 broke (to be honest: film door latch . I had EOS 5 and 3, but I liked the EOS 50 a lot.

The first camera they showed me was a bit dusty though rate E or so. Since the battery was dead when the sales clerk was fiddling with it I asked them to see another one. I'm sure it was fine, but I was a little turned off by the dusty look. The next one must have been overstock, as it was mint. I think I knocked $15 or so off it, but then I also bought a 70-200 f2.8 at the same time (and knocked a 50 or so off that.

Anyway, 7ne is better than Elan II, I love it and still can't part with it. It's small, the placement of the rear wheel is still more comfortable for me than any canon dslr since. And while there are only 3 focus points but I think Eye control (last version of it is on 7ne I think) makes them more useful than the dozens we got now. It was my first experience with ECF and it worked. It's baffling to me why Canon dropped it. I mean, if you want to go full auto - fine, but if they still let you manually click through all their points with a button and wheel acrobatics - I just don't understand.

Anyway, Adorama was good, BH was good when I bought there. If that kind of peace of mind is worth $15 to you, go ahead. It's only $15, I think in this case BH is just trying to protect reputation rather than earn extra income on warranty. Or find an even cheaper deal and chance it. These were just about the last film cameras produced, refined from previous generations of similar cameras, and they were good, so there are probably lots of gently used ones.

babiesphotos.ca said:

Viggo said:

The 5d3 is capable of shooting thin dof and moving kids. The problem might be that it is on the edge of what's impossible AND you have to struggle with the not-canon's-best AF of the 50mm f1.4.

Try the same settings outside and see if more light helps, I'm sure it will.

What you should try, since you say when the kids stop suddenly and it's "Still" oof, that is my experience to, if your AF is set up to respond to fast erratic action, when the subject stops the AF is still in top gear wanting to hit action.

First off, get your AF-start off the shutterbutton and onto the AF-ON button on the back, that way you can, for example, shoot off a few shots of a sequence, track away and shoot off a few more without the AF having to find your subject every time you push and release the shutter.

Then, and this I'm not 100% sure you can do on the 5d3, but I think you can; Select the AE lock button to recall settings and set those settings to fast action with expansion points, case 6 etc. And the AF-ON button to engage "normal" case 1 AF with single point. That way you can just move your thumb 5mm and change the behaviour of the camera COMPLETELY and get all shots focused, even if your kid runs and jumps or suddenly sits down having a sip of his juicebox. Trust me, I know one set up doesn't work with kids, you need to take advantage of EVERYTHING the 5d3 offers, and again, practice, practice, practice.

Click to expand...

Huge thanks!

Click to expand...

No problem, I have struggled with all of this myself and have gotten great tips here at CR and worked out a few solutions of my own, because toddlers are the worst to keep up with, and yes we want shallow DOF! ;D

Upgrade your software to install the latest updates. there is no cost unless you change versions.. I know it works in CS5, you did not tell us what version of Capture one you have. Also update to Lightroom 4.3.

neuroanatomist said:

Do you require autofocus? If not, older Minolta supertele lenses (500mm and 600mm) come up on eBay, etc., from time to time, and are not too expensive (relatively, that is).

Click to expand...

Yes, AF is required. Using 60D, 5D2 (and maybe in some month the 7D2
Seen the Sigma 800mm. Is this lens ok?

No need for me to waste my time, I'm colour-blind, green's and grey's

The second shot I'd have immediately said "35L". It is a combination of the "look", color, and bokeh rendition.

AmbientLight

Love you venice shot..
I could spend my days ...with a glass of wine watching the boats go by..

that night shot looks fun

you have some nice 14mm shots ...thanks for sharing them

TOM

comsense said:

Its pretty clear that you are being oversensitive. Humor off. s/he did not mean to offend you. Just warn in a straightforward way. Also, what do you interpret your reference to Nobel Laureate colleagues as?. I have some and so would many others here. Like normal people some of the Nobel Laureates are very humble but some are incredibly arrogant. And similar are colleagues without Nobel Prize.

Click to expand...

+1

Indeed, but my point with posting those, was that it kind of flies in the face of those reviews that say the 120-400 is very soft. Obviously there are bad samples that are, so I hope I don't end up with one.

I'm not sure I agree that all lenses get sharper by f/9. My 135 f/2 doesn't, and neither does my 70-200 f/4. By f/5.6 yes, but by f/8 there's a tad of softness.

Well, you are ready to move up to a large supertelephoto, and are ready to spend $3000 to $6000 or more. I am not. I've tried them. I'm comfortable where I'm at right now. I'm happy to just shoot larger targets in low light with my 135 f/2 (such as deer, raccoons, foxes, water fowl) and continue to save for a supertele. I have other monetary commitments right now.

The best you could do for low light birding, would be the 1Dx with the 400 f/2.8 ii or 600mm f/4 ii. If you need a low light zoom, the Sigma 120-300 f/2.8 2013 version is probably it. Supposedly it will be released mid March.

I would go for 6D for couple reasons:
1. It does exist
2. Cleaner image in higher ISO

definitely pick up an st-e3-rt as everyone else has mentioned...My main reason for it was it was slightly cheaper than another 600 unit, and much lighter/less bulky.

We run eneloops in all our "AA" required stuff fyi.

..yesterday, luck, location lighting and the fact that I had my camera with me all played a part in getting a few nice images. During the course of 12 minutes I made about 40 exposures and managed 2-4 keepers...I didnt plan this and if I wasn't lucky that the traffic was smooth flowing I wouldn't have had the time...More images and info on my lucky 12 minutes here at...http://thelazytravelphotographer.blogspot.com/

Thanks for sharing - it was hmm charming

koffie5D said:

if you can live with manual focus there is the Voigtländer 20mm f/3.5 SL-II

Click to expand...

+1

This little guy goes everywhere with my 40mm pancake
they share 52mm filters too which are cheap to get CPL, 10 stop ND etc

Hard stop infinity focus, awesome build
also its electronic aperture control and the AF confirm is fast and accurate but at f8 and infinity basically everything more than 2m away is in focus anyway,

its a brilliant street photography lens

good ol KR has a review of it
http://www.kenrockwell.com/voigtlander/20mm-f35.htm

I can't see the video, so I can't tell you for sure, but I'll try. Did you color correct it or add any sharpening? This is why I don't use Cinestyle, it really brings out the noise, especially at high ISO settings. By the time you get the footage back to normal it looks the same as it would have otherwise but with more noise. I use Neutral or Faithful, Sharpening 0, Contrast -3 or -4, Saturation -2 (also known as the "ProLost Flat" picture style). Also I'd shoot IPB over ALL-I, there have been tons of comparisons and you either can't see the difference between the two or the IPB looks slightly better in some cases. ALL-I is more edit friendly but the files are HUGE.

Also shutter speed should be 1/50, just thought I'd throw that out there.

For a travel tripod, it doesn't get much better than the Really Right Stuff TQC-14 and BH-30 LR. But the Gitzo 1542T with the Markins Q3T would do nicely - a friend just got one to use with a 5DIII/7D + 100-400, and is quite pleased with it.

rpt said:

I am sorry. My bad

Click to expand...

No problems. At least if I ever do go to Bangalore, I now know where to go shopping for Canon stuff. Haven't been to India at all yet. ;-)

eli72 said:

You could also get a long sync cord (see, e.g., http://ocfgear.com/) which would let you use the 600 off camera and still trigger the 430 optically as a slave in ETTL or Manual, I think. The 10m cord is $65 and the 5m cord is $48.

Click to expand...

Thanks, having spent circa £250 on an ST-E3 trigger I want to avoid cables if I can but its still a good option, thanks again.

Hi! I just opened my Canon 6D! Woot woot!

Anyways, I have been using the 5D Mark II and I usually mess with the white balance/Kelvin while in Live View. So I can actually see the color and temperature change. I can't figure out how to do this on the 6D. I can do it in the menu, but not in Live View.

Does anyone know if this is possible and if so, how?

Thanks!