wow congratulations on your 600 purchase!
if you didnt notice the diff in flash accuracy try shooting white or black predominant scenes.
in conjunction with your 5DIII I believe the new sensors are now reading RGB metering so it will get exposures with closer/better accuracy. not under exposing whites or over exposing blacks...
there are ways of using the 600EX with older systems IR but go forward and Maximize the RTs fully functional controls.

first learn and do all you can with the flash on camera.
research learn and experiment... learn the good and the limitations of the flash in all variations of positions and modifiers.

then get that thing off your camera via off camera cable or RT controller...
try that and all the positions modifiers distances.... ect and ect...

then buy a second light and now it will get really fun...

then ect. ect.

have FUN!

if you want a perfect circle catch light in your subjects eye first determine the working distance you need and then look for the corresponding modifier.
1. acrylic globe for home lighting (good for small dot or working close)... surprisingly cheap
2. china lantern come in many diff sizes (good for small dot or working close).... surprisingly more cheap.
3. use umbrella as close to lens as possible... some cases directly behind camera.
4. any round box or octa bank or rotalux style bank.

only need a tenth of amount of light to produce specular in eyes... adjust to your liking but so it does not effect your main lighting ratio.

If using speedlight or speedlights on HS up to 1/8000 sync is still not enough power...
fastest DSLR Ive used is 250th. with larger output like Profoto 7b. need more power add another one.. now thats at 2400ws need more then go X4 or generator A/C with 2X 2400 units...
the problem usually is how big an area of light you are creating at what distance.

if you want to kill the sun overhead fly a 8x8 or 12X12 overhead and light from the side.

the answer would be ...
any time you want the light to be diffused... making a wider dispersion of light.
physics to be mentioned size of diffuser to distance of subject... what the diffused light is bouncing on its reflective value to the distance of the subject.
the white kleenex does the same... and yes it has the similar color diff like the stofen.
a small white balloon .... plastic bag... foam coffee cup... on and on...
seriously ...my favorite is the lumiquest bounce. I use a stofen with the top cut out and the lumiquest bounce tapped on it. dosnt fold but its rigid and removable to apply CTS when walking into changing lighting situations.... 3200K = +CTS full... 4000K FL = +CTS half w 20 green and so on...

since you have halogens in place in the kitchen and invested in the clamp on holders... have you tried using screw in halogens? they are available 125 250 and up to 500 w at home depot.
the trick is homogeneous lighting... keeping added lights same as the practical source (kitchen) lights... color temperature and hue... thats 2700k at 2700k and +- 0 green or magenta. Use cinema grade diffusion from Gamcolor, Lee or Rosco... get their swatch books and then you can see the vast world of lighting filtration...
happy shooting

Just make sure the discharge lights have electronic ballasts that support a square wave/flicker free mode. Older magnetic ballasts cause flicker problems. The lack of genlock on the VDSLRs makes even filming problematic.
[/quote]

DUDE! yes good point!!!... most good productions operate on FF mode but if purchasing HMI do make sure you are set to Flicker Free....just like shooting under practical lighting situations... older FL overheads do flicker too...very prominent when only a few or one FL bank is used. If so shoot shutter slower than 1/60 ,,, 1/30 1/25 to be safe...

But now the link works ....

Yes 2nd curtain and remote zoom control would be nice to have...
more so a battery level indicator would be very practical... or when ETTL flash was fired what power output from flash was used... longer operational range or the ability for add on antenna ... or RGB flash tubes that can be set for AWB or manual Kelvin and HUE...
and 200,400 or 800 w/s output... on and on..
I gotta say Canon moves forward to improve its products and they did a great job with the new EX system. If you dont see what you need from the EX system now... wait a bit... they might add features...
personally the EX system is great... radio telemetry all built in. no need for radios dangling about.

ONE pet peeve I DID have was the controller COULD have had a tilting feature... while on the top of my ladder and the camera set high up I cant see the top of the controller.... so i used off camera cable to view.... DUH!!! I could have just used the cameras view finder on "off camera flash" setting... oh well... live,, make mistakes... and learn...

It is good habit to learn photography through magzines.you can try http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/ I am following it from last 3 years. Lots of good techniques, new camera reviews, lens etc, almost every thing is there. Also you should attend photography event. Dont forget to watch you tube videos related to new techniques aswell. It will help you alot.

It happens, mostly with the old images.

Learning to use the flash in manual mode is by far the best route to go UNLESS you have a lot of changing light in your frame or light/subject distance is varying a lot. After a little while you can get perfect exposure from manual flashes in just a few test shots. Or use a light meter

For everything you want to know, visit strobist.blogspot.com.

good luck and welcome to the fun side of photography where YOU controll the light!

..that's why they invented bracketing I suppose....

How easy is it hand hold?

Thanks for sharing

Victor
I am a happy owner of 1DsIII & 1Dx and 600ex system... So happy with my 600s that I am using them way more than I used my previous flash guns... putting aside 7b and Pro Acute systems.
I have been using the Canon CP E4 battery packs to power my 600EX units.
the CP E4 packs hold 8X AAs ... light weight and preform well for most small to mid jobs.
because they are Canon the weather seals on the power plugs are great... Ive actually
used the combo in very damp situations... heavy mist to some blasts of heavy rain.
what canon does not have is battery level indicators... in either the flash or batt packs.
the downside to the CP E4s are they always need batteries. I personally do not like rechargeable
AAs. they do not last long and if sitting uncharged longer than a day... they just loose charge.

I recently did lots of research and went with Quantum Turbo 3 and the SC.
the Quantum units cost more and are quite larger than the Canon packs BUT.
they recycle FAST and keep on going.
when quick recycle times are a must... the Quantum packs preform,,! especially the Turbo 3
recharge times from full discharge are about 2-3 hours for the SC and 3-4 hours for the Turbo3
the downside to the Quantum units are: they are heavy... not like my old Lumedyne super cycler
but yah you feel it on your belt. the units are not weather resistant... if working in drizzle or rain
some bagging or grommets should help.... last when you unplug the unit it turns off automaticly...
I have my batts because of weight behind me on my belt so its hard to turn on pack and to get response that its on...other than the obvious lights that show unit on... a beep would have been nice... especially for 400 and 650$ per unit with cables...
BUT- I love them... they preform lickety fast... maybe over kill for small jobs shooting slow pace..
but for any job you will need to bang hard and fast YES YES ! QUANTUM baby!

hope this helps

Menace said:

Well done.

What camera & lens combination did you use?

Thanks

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Hi Menance, these where shot with a canon 400mm f/2.8 IS mounted on a canon 1D MKIII

candyman said:

And, what aperture, shutterspeed and ISO did you use?
Great capture of action.

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Most of the shots where at 2.8, I tried to keep the ISO to at least 500, but probably averages around 1000 - 1500

tolusina said:

Great set of photos!!
I know nothing of rugby, so little that I had to google RBS in the thread title, but these photos show Women that clearly do know rugby and are 100% involved.
Absolutely great facial expressions in all these shots, great job capturing those expressions and the intensity of the action.

Pretty lopsided score, is rugby a new game in England, eh?

Click to expand...

Thanks for your comments,
If you google "rugby" you will see that it was first played in England at Rugby school, hence the name.

How about Canon SX50 HS (24-1200mm zoom range, with very good image quality in good light) ... I've never used this camera but was thinking of getting one for hikes, Sink hole climbs etc ... seen some interesting reviews on youtube ... a canon rumors member (dilbert) had posted a convincing review from luminous landscape
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=12154.msg230986#msg230986

that ball is gonna get a wallop!!

This might help.

http://www.fileguru.com/apps/video_metadata_editor

Greetings from thailand!

You can process with http://iqlab.co.th They have many branches in bkk. It's one of the best remaining. Do not try any small outlets or you will have a bad bad time.

You can get additional 120s in siam area.

A dumb question but you don't have the 600 on master or slave do you?

I would suggest the EF-S 15-85 mm which has a great range for street shooting. It's a very good lens by any standard and it offers the versatility of a zoom.

Jesse said:

For timelapses. Discuss. Does it depend on how far apart your intervals are so the camera has enough buffer time, etc?

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On a 60D, you can shoot at 5.9 frames per second forever if you are saving as jpeg with a fast memory card. better cameras shold be more, worse cameras less.

If your camera supports magic lantern, you can use it's intervalometer..... most intervalometers are in 1 second increments. I doubt you will find a camera that can't keep up to 1 shot per second with jpegs or in raw at 2 shots per second.

Battery life is going to be your biggest worry. Set the camera to manual focus, you don't want it trying to focus before every shot, particularly with a 1 second interval. If you can turn off the back screen, do it. If you have wifi or gps, turn it off. These things eat batteries.... The 60D is rated for about 800 shots on a new battery and I get 1200 shots on an old battery WITHOUT draining it.

Rienzphotoz said:

Hobby Shooter said:

Rienzphotoz said:

sanj said:

Magnardo said:

Buy the 5d mark iii with the lens 24-105 from Amazon,...then sell the lens on Craiglist for,.... 750 or 800 and your body will be 2500.
The lens is crap for me but it generates money fast,.... cause a lot of people love it.
For me the f4 stop, strong purple hazing and pronounced distortion make it impossible to like.
Any person which is not dead center of picture, has egg shaped head,...i feel like a cannibal....want to eat them.

Good luck.

Click to expand...

Could you please some sample photos which make you hungry. I want to learn. Please.

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LOL ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

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I don't have any problems with my 24-105, maybe Magnardo just doesn't know how to use it.

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Maybe it has something to do with him feeling like a "cannibal" ;D

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