Posts

Happy viking · Feb 7, 2013

Then i orderd the 300 MM f/2.8 L IS USM used from a Canondealer w/ 3 months guarantie ;D

If i still dont like the reach i can resell it whitout loosing to much money 8)

DocMo · Feb 7, 2013

Hey All,

New to the forums and just wanted to say that this thread was one of the most interesting threads that I've read in a long time!

candyman · Feb 7, 2013

When I am in the field, I use 2 cameras: 7D with 70-300mm L and 5D MKIII with 24-105. The 16-35 MK II is in my bag.

Now, if the 28-300 II has better IQ than the combination of 24 until 300, yes. Even if the weight of this one lens is more to carry with my camera. I would have it on the 7D and the 16-35 MK II on the 5D MK III

For the moment I got used to my combination and I am pleased with it.

brant · Feb 7, 2013

Meh...

R1-7D · Feb 6, 2013

Nice shots! Glad you're enjoying your lens. I am enjoying mine more and more now.

shunsai said:
I bought the Tokina 16-28mm about a month ago and I love it!
I'm no expert on UWA photography, but I'm having fun trying to get the hang of it.
My first impressions have been that it's very sharp, good color, low distortion, and affordable. A fantastic lens!

There were instances where I had some flare when the light source was directly in the picture, but it didn't strike me as a major issue or big detractor from the overall quality of this lens.

Here are a couple I took recently.

shutterwideshut · Feb 6, 2013

RMC33 said:
I have never used a TS-E lens and was wondering if anyone could offer some advice on if this would be a prudent investment or a few online tutorials. I have searched around online and had little luck with finding anything tutorial related.

Thanks!

I hope this link helps: http://oopoomoo.com/ebook/the-tilt-shift-lens/. The e-book has everything you need to know about the TS-E lens. I'm as well looking to invest on the TS-E lens in the near future.

robbymack · Feb 6, 2013

Youre welcome rusty. I think the op will do fine. I am by no means a pro, but as the guy in the group with the "big" camera I'm put in this situation often whether it is friends, co workers, etc. I'm generally very happy to do it especially since folks who are turning to me are generally looking to spend less than $1000 for a photographer for their big day. Seeing the results of that kind of a budget I know I will no only care more than another photographer and will try my best. do I miss things, yes, but I put the time and effort into it to make it a good day for them. Expectations are set low, i inform them id much rather enjoy the day with them, but i also don't want them hiring a hack who doesn't care. all I ask of the couple is to cover my backup gear rental fees and a nice bottle of wine.

fonts · Feb 6, 2013

MarkII said:
Marsu42 said:

Luckily, the Magic Lantern devs have figured out what iso is "best" - and it's rather surprising and more complicated than one might think...

Click to expand...

The charts here are instructive: http://home.comcast.net/~nikond70/Charts/PDR.htm

If you look at the 5DIII, you can see the waving up and down of the DR with intermediate ISO steps - exactly what you would expect for a mix of analogue and digital gain setting. In contrast, the 1DX plot is smooth, perhaps because it is using analogue gain for the intermediate steps.

The plots suggest a peak DR at ISO 160 on the 5DIII, which is consistent with the ML folks conclusion that the native ISO is somewhere around 80ish and everything else is a push/pull of that.

The effect is small, however, and probably not worth the hassle of fretting about when shooting... however I wish Canon had a RAW capture mode and metering that operated only at native ISO values.

What's insane (if its accurate) is the 5D Mark III/1Dx vs D600 .... God damn it :/

J.R. · Feb 6, 2013

jonathan7007 said:
Great feedback although I wish the "answer" was more clear. Some good news, some bad news (about this body's capabilities.)
On balance I will now look for one... will have to be eBay as there aren't any likely to show up in rural area's CraigsList! I will also tr to buy from some place that will stand by the description and condition. A challenge.

Thanks, everyone, for adding your experiences with the 1Ds MkIII.

jonathan7007

Cool ... BTW, if your wife "gifts" you a 5d3, don't end up turning into a purple faced guy

Sorry ... Couldn't resist ;D

Cheers ... JR

dolina · Feb 6, 2013

I see Canon consolidating a 4k-capable 1D camera in 3 years time for about 6-8k.

Mt Spokane Photography · Feb 6, 2013

wickidwombat said:
I'm using the edmika adapter on my 600 f4.5 FD lens
its actually a wonderfull video lens because the focus wheels are light and allow you to very gently pull focus without causing lens vibration that would be unavoidable with a ring focus setup

I never had a jerky issue like you describe with my 600mm f/4 AF lens. It had a focus by wire system and you could set the focus speed for manual focus to smooth and slow, or tomediun or to fast. It was as smooth as silk when manually focusing.

brok3nsalvation · Feb 6, 2013

I have a Canon T2i with just the 18-55mm kit lens, and also a 50mm prime I was given. I'm a beginner film maker, and plan on shooting a video for my step-brother this summer of motocross. I want the style to be similar to Moto: The Movie series, Kickstart or Epic (all motocross films), kind of a documentary/stylized look at the sport. I noticed most shots have a very deep depth of field, where as everything is in focus. How do I easily pull this off, and what lens would you recommend for doing such a film?

Again, I'm a beginner, so sorry if this is a stupid question.

I appreciate any response.
Thanks!

wickidwombat · Feb 6, 2013

brought1 said:
GAlbrecht said:

Would be a big change but, why not sell the 5d ii and the two 40d's, and get two 5d iii's. The mark 3's would be better for the weddings and the sports with its autofocus and frame rate. And then you have the convenience of using two identical bodies, same button layout, ergonomics, and probably a more consistent image output.

Click to expand...

Here's my issue with the 40d's - I have two of them, purchased back in 2007 and 2008. Well, right now, resale value on ebay and the going rate on craigslist in my area is around 150-200 just for the body only. The 40d is still a great camera and I would hate to sale it for mere pennies on the dollar. I would rather save it for my two sons, so when they get older, they have something to mess around with.

Right now, I did post on CL in my area for a 40d, 28-135 is, sigma 17-70, 2 battieries, 6 different filters for 650. Let's see if it sells.

And earlier, someone mentioned that if I could find a 1ds mkiii for closer to 2000, that might be a better option than buying the 5d mk iii. That's what I was thinking. If I had to drop 3000 + for a 1ds mk iii....I don't know that I would go that route. Plus the warranty!!! I don't think I'll find a warranty with the 1ds where I could easily get one for the 5d mk iii.

Good comments everyone! I really appreciate it. Thank you.

good point on the 40ds you could also keep em for shooting timelapse if you are into that sort of thing

V8Beast · Feb 6, 2013

Even as a happy 5D3 user, if you have the money, I say to 1Dx all the way

7enderbender · Feb 6, 2013

CanNotYet said:
I am reading up a lot on this, preparing for purchasing a 7D classic, and everyone seems to agree that the 18mp APS-C sensor is capable of excellent results, providing it is paired with a "good enough lens".

So, my question is: Which lenses ARE good enough for the 18mp APS-C sensor?

Lots of answers are: "L mark II"

So, is it only L mark II that are "good enough" for 7D? Where do you draw the line? At L-glass?
Is the 85mm f1.8 good enough? The 70-300 non-L? the 17-40L?

If someone had a list of "good enough" lenses, I would (and I think others too) appreciate it a lot. Especially where to draw the line. L mark II are WAY out of my budget, so lets set the limit to 1000$.

Which lenses are good enough (sharp and resolving power) for the 18mp APS-C sensor, below 1000$?

Come on! Give me some nice recommendations! (3rd party is fine too)

Like others have said already there is no right or wrong answer here. I would go down the decision tree by starting with what focal length(s) you want, if you like primes or zooms or both, if you're interested in shallow depth of field (and hence want to look at fast primes perhaps) - and then your budget. The whole sharpness and resolving power thing is a bit overrated in my opinion.

There are lots of very affordable options out there. The least rewarding will likely be the cheap do-it-all zooms but you probably already know that. As far as primes go dare I say that ALL Canon EF primes are very good. Same is probably true for the better off-brands such as Sigma. You may even find the occasional cheap Chinese (or whatever) manual focus nugget that is worth playing with.

So it's really more a question what style of photography you want and from there decide if it's worth for you getting one or two of the somehow nicer lenses that are "better" in various ways. It's not just sharpness.

bseitz234 · Feb 6, 2013

Re: 5D3 Focus Assist Beam Fix On The Way!!!

Studio1930 said:
Chosenbydestiny said:

Great news for us indoor event shooters...

Click to expand...

And outdoor night shooters (although I usually use bigger lights and a spot flashlight for focus)

I'm sure this fix will make your work easier, but damn, you're doing pretty well with what you've got... really like this shot!!

Yedija luhur · Feb 6, 2013

Marsu42 said:
Yedija luhur said:

Personally i like 5D2 in camera JPEG sharpening method rather than 6D, but luckily i often use RAW file, so i can manage my own sharpening method.

Click to expand...

The 5d2 has the sharpest sensor output, esp. at lower iso, of the 5d2/5d3/6d generations, so it can do with less in-camera postprocessing. The 6d is at the other end of the scale, it trades some sharpness for higher iso capability - to compensate, Canon obviously has implemented more aggressive sharpening. I don't think you can do anything about this except bug Canon for a fw update.

I remember this issue being discussed when the first 6d raw and jpeg samples were out. This is more or less the difference between the "pro" 5d2 and the 6d which is tuned for sooc amateur shots, Canon has to protect their 5d3 after all :-o

Btw. the difference between your sample shots is really larger than I'd have expected it, maybe some other problem is at work here in combination with the above sensor difference.

thanks for your answer, yeah i believe 5D2 was a very wonderful camera too, their color characteristic is brilliant and razor sharp in their jpeg mode... unless i shot with studio light, they wont make any difference..
i'm little disappointed in this, but i shoot RAW, so everything will be alright, until i process hundreds or thousands RAW file..

FunPhotons · Feb 6, 2013

Note; with this and any other strap, if you're concerned about it accidentally coming loose you can use some of these

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010HA6A6/

as backup

cervantes · Feb 6, 2013

Synomis192 said:
... if I purchase an L for my crop body I feel like I'd waste it.

Well this is a HUGE misconception. My old 550D/T2i started to shine when I finally got the 100L for it two years ago. Of course now on my 5D3 its an even better lens but still it was awesome on APS-C.

If your budget is limited then you should always invest in lenses not bodies IMO. You say that you do not have appropriate lenses for FF and after going through your list, your right (except for the 50 maybe)!
Your FF Camera won't do much good without great lenses.

On the other hand your T1i would do great with:
70-200 4 L IS
100L
135L
200 2.8 L
all inside your budget.

mdm · Feb 6, 2013

TWI by Dustin Abbott said:
I am a portrait photographer, and I love the 6D. I find the increased dynamic range (over the 5DII) huge for smoother transitions on faces, and the AF is much more accurate for nailing those sharp eyes.

Plus, the Wi-Fi capability enable me to do this : http://www.dustinabbott.net/2013/02/i-believe-i-can-fly/, which would be near impossible with the 5DII by myself because of nailing the razor thin depth of field of the 135L wide open.

Good work!

Could you point-out any other favourite portraits that you have shot with the 6d?

jrista · Feb 5, 2013

Archangel72 said:
BIG VOTE for my BIG GUN!!!

1Dx... +5 and why?

because...

1. It's BIG, ideal for big hands.
2. It's for people who can carry heavy stuff, and not complain like a little girl about weight and size.
3. It's a photo weapon, and not a little toy
4. Better ISO.
5. Faster shutter speed 12-14 fps - MONSTER.
6. Louder shutter - I paid 6.200,00 Euro for freekin' camera who gives a sh.. if attracts a little attention (you are photographer, you should have "stronger armour" ... "thick skin", if you can't handle pressure of few people complaining, and you care a lot about what they all have to say, than you shouldn't do photography... stop crying and start taking photos. (You don't buy a Ferrari, and than drive only in 1st gear, you shift your 6 or 7 gears, and enjoy in speed of light, with big sound coming from your engine, not your speakers).
1Dx = Ferrari
7. Better water sealing.
8. 400000 shutter cycles.
9. Better video quality.
etc...
I hope you get the point why 1Dx over anything else on this planet ...
No hard feelings people, but pay more - get more.

Hmm...and the 1D X compensates for a tiny little....what? :

;D

wickidwombat · Feb 5, 2013

pwp said:
wickidwombat said:

pwp said:

Despite scouring the web for a definitive answer on the question of Odins working with Einsteins to achieve even a moderately faster flash sync speed, I didn't come up with much. Hell even 1/500th would be very very useful.

What I did read was a trick setting where you trigger the Einsteins with a speedlight set to HSS. Apparently when set to HSS the flash is programmed to fire earlier than in the standard setting. I'll test & report back. Even so, this arrangement would be of limited usefulness because of proximity restrictions. But maybe if you used Odins on HSS and used a speedlight to trigger the Einstein this would work. You'd put the speedlight on a stand right up against the Einstein photocell. Could work!

Can someone with Einsteins & Odins give this a whirl?
-PW

Click to expand...

you're not in Perth are you? otherwise we could meet up and try your Einsteins and my Odins

Click to expand...

No not in Perth, we're in Sydney. Nice offer though. How do the Odins go with your monos (Elincrom?)

-PW

The odins work great with the Elinchrom right up to 1/8000 th sec
only issue i had was at exactly 1/250th sometimes got black frames
it might just be because its on the cusp of changing from xsync to however
it syncs for high speed. basically a non issue because if i want to shoot at 1/200 i'll just use the skyport trigger
and use the odins if i want it faster. I ended up ordering a stratto 2 reviever to see if it works in the same capacity on the elinchroms

I also discovered that a $2 3.5mm audio jack splitter cable lets you have 1 reciever drive 2 mono lights too!
much cheaper than a $150 per odin reciever

LetTheRightLensIn · Feb 5, 2013

HurtinMinorKey said:
From what i've seen/read, the 1Dx is considered soft and lacks detail like the 5d3, with slightly better low light performance. The s35 crop mode on the 1D-C is much better, and shows what they could have done on the 5D3 and the 1DX.

It's too bad they didn't put an APS-C video mode in the 5D3 because:
1. more reach can help for wildlife
2.a. it would be closer scale to the natural AA filter and might not need to be quiet as softened up
2.b. perhaps the single digic would even be fast enough to simply reach that whole chunk directly and downscale to provide really high quality
3. they could even perhaps have fit in an even high mag mode where they read out a 2k block directly and process it

Anyway I've heard that the 1DX tends to have a bit more moire in it's good mode, but to offer noticeably better micro-contrast/crisper detail. It will never have ML made for it, at least no by the ML group, and considering all that Canon left out of it that is a shame and makes it less useful.

Don Haines · Feb 5, 2013

AprilForever said:
neuroanatomist said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Marsu42 said:

Indeed, and while I guess US law would apply to CR

Click to expand...

Nope, CR is in Canada. Those who post are responsible for their own posts, but the moderators try to make it a plesant place to carry on reasonable conversations about photography.
They even let some of the US citizens like Neuro and myself post here. My son was born in Toronto and has a Canadian father, so I guess that makes me part Canadian - eh

Click to expand...

...and my mom was born in Regina and is still a Canadian citizen with permanent resident status in the US. Maybe we should start a conspiracy theory about a requirement for a 'Canadian connection'...

Click to expand...

I once dated a girl from Quebec... I suppose I count?

It's quite easy to get an honorary Canadian citizenship. All you have to do is:

End a sentence with eh? - Eh
Drink a beer while wathching a hockey game.
Know what a Timbit is....
Pronounce "Winnipeg" as "Winterpeg"
Think that melted curds and gravy on top of fries is a delicacy
Know that they are only two seasons.... winter and blackfly.

And for your viewing pleasure... http://www.onf.ca/film/blackfly This is a film by the National Film Board that accurately depicts life in Canada between winters... eh... enjoy

Don Haines · Feb 5, 2013

I carry a 60D and the canon 18-200 when hiking. It is not the greatest lens in the world.... but it is convenient. No swapping lenses in and out, easy to carry, and certainly decent enough quality for the web or slideshows. In hiking, what I can carry is the limiting factor.

As long as you are outdoors any comparable lens, like the sigma and the tamron, should act well. AF feed and image quality will be nowhere near as good as a nice Lglass prime.... but then again you will not be spending $8000 either.

Your worst case scenario is that you buy the lens at a great deal, try it for a while and decide you don't like it, and then sell it as almost new for close to what you paid for it..... not a whole lot of risk....

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