It might be a bad memory card. Try doing a full (not Quick) format. For CF cards, this will have to be done in a computer, but you can do it in camera for a SD card if you select the option.

A full or low level format will erase every memory location, and mark bad sectors so the camera will not try to write data to them and hang.

Formatting a CF card in camera does not detect bad memory sectors, it just updates the fat table to indicate that the card is empty. Its always a good idea to do a in camera format after a low level format in your computer.

Other than a bad memory card, I'd send it to canon, or exchange it for another with your dealer.

Dylan777 said:

Compared to 5D III, the new release 4ti seems to be in stock everywhere. This wasn't the case with 5D III.

Is that means we have more FF shooters out there? Just wonder

Click to expand...

Because of the laws of supply and demand...

jaayres20 said:

Chris Burch said:

If your on-camera flash isn't overheating, why would the remote flashes have that problem. If you're always firing your on-camera flash, I would venture to guess that one is putting out more power than your remotes set at 1/32 or 1/64. Do you think it might be a range problem -- 100ft isn't all that far.

Since it's part of the discussion, what do most of you set your speed lights at when flying them as remotes on stands? It sounds like jaayres20 is using the eTTL function with ratios...how is that working out for you? Is that giving you better light than setting the remotes on low manual power?

Click to expand...

Chris I don't use ratios I use group mode and set my on camera flash to ETTL and my two slave flashes to manual. I like to have the two slave flashes in different groups so I can adjust their power separately if needed. And it has happend may times that if one of my slave flashes overheats then my on camera flash or my other slave flash will not fire until the slave flash "recovers". It is very inconvenient to say the least.

Click to expand...

I shot a wedding the other day with a very similar setup for the reception. I was using similar power settings (1/32 and 1/64) on my two slaves and didn't have any issues. I took several hundred frames with Sanyo Eneloop XX batteries without any misses at all. I was within about 50 ft. from my strobes at all times at night time in an outdoors setting. 600EX-RT was the master.

Thank you guys for the help

.
Cameras are back. Only three EOS at the moment (and one of those is out of stock!).

unfocused said:

I tried to bring some sanity to this earlier but my post was deleted. Apparently some people can't handle the truth.

Click to expand...

.
The truth can take a grimly narrow focus around here sometimes. I wonder if poor ebay sales may often have some influence on the peckishness.

More to the point, there are some folks here who simply cannot get over that APS-H sensor. Perhaps 10 years from now all the ills of the world will be attributable to taking the non-APS-H path. "In the old days we rode horses everywhere and had the APS-H sensor for perfect pictures! Where did we go wrong!!?"

Canon is taking us all for a ride straight to hell on a metal oxode semiconductor!

The End IS Near...

The End IS Near..........

jaayres20 said:

I have the 28mm 1.8 and I mostly use it at wedding receptions and am pretty happy with it. I think it does well at focusing fast in low light which is a must for me. I am not satisfied with the image quality in comparison to my other L lenses. I am interested in the 24mm 1.4 but I am concerned it won't focus as fast as the 28mm. I ran into that with the 50mm 1.2 not focusing as fast as the 50mm 1.4. Anyone with both lenses?

Click to expand...

24L seems to focus rather quickly for me in dim light on a 5D Mark III. Haven't used it with the 1D4 yet though.

I have a t2i and shoot 100% in raw. I'm considering an upgrade and have a question. It seems like there are several interesting upgrades for the jpeg shooters with the t4i. What (if any) would be the upgrades for those who shoot in raw with the t4i?

KreutzerPhotography said:

neuroanatomist said:

IIIHobbs said:

...a wedding is not as easy as simply capturing a few key moments.

Click to expand...

C'mon - how hard can it be? Just set the camera to 'P' mode (that stands for 'Pro' right?) and click away... :

Click to expand...

Yes... P=Pro... green is for go...

Click to expand...

this

Narcolepsy said:

wickidwombat said:

here you go
I think the 200 is the way to go over the 170

Click to expand...

That is incredibly helpful
I really appreciate it!
Thank you!

Click to expand...

no problems
any time

this looks pretty cheap if you are in the US
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-Black-Lowepro-Nova-200-AW-Shoulder-Bag-/110854180228?pt=US_Camera_Cases_Bags&hash=item19cf6c8d84

only if its under $1000
if its over $1000 they can nail you for 10% GST + 5% import duty

its cheaper to buy it online from hongkong and have it mailed in there is
a high chance it wont get checked and you wont get charged but
they can and do stop packages which they hold until you pay those fees

My review of the 600EX-RT is now online! I used three 600EX-RT's and shot in a lot different scenarios including weddings, portraits, and action with high-speed sync using the new wireless radio TTL capabilities. I included tons of info with many sample photos and descriptions of the shots. Enjoy!

http://markwebbphoto.com/blog/2012/6/canon-600ex-rt-review

Just makes me chuckle. ;D ;D

http://nikonrumors.com/forum/

I would think that would be kinda irritating to some of the nikon folks. Off to the side it would be like whatever - plastered right at the top big and bold though ----- well its kinda a bit in your face.

Knut Skywalker said:

I bought mine like 4 months ago an the prices are still exactly the same (like 1,500-1,600€ for a used one, body only).

Click to expand...

... but before I get it for €1600 used, I'll definitely pay €1800 for a *new* one with warranty. I'm amazed people are getting away selling their used bodies for these prices. I know how worn out my 60d is after 80k pictures, and believe me you wouldn't want to buy a used body from me

neuroanatomist said:

A very common seller behavior is to start with the price they paid for the item, then mark it down a bit (maybe 20%) and that's the price they list. The 'problem' (for them, that is) is that the 5DII is still available new, and the price of the new 5DII has dropped relative to what they paid.

Click to expand...

Yes, I have made this experience with people selling technology in the past - they don't take into account that the day they buy tech (except lenses) the value drops. But if this is the case, they won't sell it cheaper even if more 5d2 are on the market in 1-2 months.

bdunbar79 said:

The other thing though, you don't want to wait too long because it will most certainly be your primary camera at the weddings and you definitely want to get to know it and how to use it inside and out, and that includes the features AND with your lenses.

Click to expand...

Thanks, good advice - again! So my current opinion is to wait no more than a month, look at used prices and then decide if to buy it new.

Daniel Flather said:

Razor2012 said:

Just got mine today also...great flash.

Click to expand...

If you have the 5D3, as you profile reads, you need the st-e3-rt to complete the set. It's an amazing set up. Only problem is you'll want a second 600rt, or a fifth. I have the st-e3-rt and two 600RT flashes.

Click to expand...

I know, I've been looking at the ST-E3-RT. I will eventually get one, but right now I'm saving for the 24-70II.

Thanks, have been unsure on if to go for the 600D or the 650D for a while now but that has just persuaded me to go for the 600D and save some money while I'm at it.

Shame really, I guess they just want you to buy the zoom/telephoto lenses.

I'm waiting. I'd like to upgrade to a 1 series body (because I can afford it, not because I need it), but the 1DX doesn't do it for me. I don't need to take enough frames per second to be able to make a movie of it.

I'd say go to your nearest Best Buy or the like if you live in North America and purchase one. Use it for 14 days. If it treats you right, then keep it. If not, either return it or exchange it. You can never know if you will like a product or not purely based on opinions of others. Some reviews and reports are good, but they are not the final word on the quality of a product.

V8Beast said:

Your product shots are outstanding!

Click to expand...

True and good commendation, but one thing I'll keep in mind is people saying not only your shots matter, but your whole product (from getting a call to delivering a print) as well as your ability to raise and communicate w/ clients and take care of the business side (paperwork, advertising, financing adequate gear)?

kriptikracing said:

Marsu42 said:

Lenses are subjective, because all lenses and camera bodies are compromises, the top ones compromise weight, size and price. This is why asking what's "best" or "great" is not a good idea, only what's suitable for what purpose.

The efs15-85 is a very good standard zoom for aps-c (like 24-105 for full frame) because it isn't as expensive as the 17-55 and has longer zoom range. It isn't suitable for low light non-still shooting, because it goes from f3.5 to f4 and smaller nearly instantly and the current 18mp aps-c sensor lacks in low light capability. If you want shoot-in-the-dark moving objects for an aps-c, get a f1.4 lens.

Click to expand...

What is considered low light? Also, what do u mean by shoot in the dark? Sorry just need a reference point so I can determine myself if the 15-85 is ok for me.

Bottom line, I'm getting the 60D through the loyalty program. I have $1500 to spend and the body alone is $640. If u were me where 75% of your pictures will be your child, what would you buy with the rest of the money?

Click to expand...

while i personally think the 60D is a little long in the tooth, if you're buying it from the CLP then it isn't too bad of an idea. I might choose the 7D instead but that one is even older and definitely wayyy more complicated. Personally, I might just buy the 550D(T2i,) which is basically very similar to the 60D, just a little more rebelly feeling and without the top LCD. I'm not sure the price difference at the moment. Both cameras use the same sensor, have the safe AF basically and similar features(swivel screen seems the biggest difference to me.)
My cousin has a 60D and 15-85 and he is pretty happy. I have a 5D Classic and a 24-105(which, with the 50mm 1.8, and a used body, could be had for just around 1600 or 1700 dollars) and I think that this is a much more pro setup which kills the 60D in terms of photos of people. If you just want to take pictures of family that are better than a Point and Shoot then i'd go T2i and the kit lens(which was my first DSLR setup)..... Then I might wait and decide which direction you want to go in a year or two when most of the new lineup will be out and Photokina will be over(new 7D, 70D, low price FF, mirrorless.)
Personally, I don't think the 15-85 is that much better than the kit lens(although it is better,) I also don't think the 60D is that much better than the 550D. So personally I would go full frame, or rebel.
One thing I know(from experience,) is that it is very difficult to understand and know what you want/need/will use until after you spend a year or so using these cameras and lenses. I made some mistakes setting up my kit because I just wasn't aware of all the endless possibilities and repurcussions.

It would indeed be better to let CR publish rumors, then the totally absurd ones can be ignored.

If you have a rumor, and its reliable, send it to the CR guy. If its one of those third hand kiddie wishful thinking ones that do not make sense, don't post them.

People pick this stuff up and pretty soon, CR gets blamed by people who believe everything they read.

I saw the other thread about landscape filters.

What would the forum suggest when shooting the red rock from Valley of the Fire outside of Vegas, Antelope Canyon, both upper and lower, Monument Valley, various places around Moab, and probably some Death Valley and Mono Lake. Widest is a 10-20 zoom, med tele is 24-85, and 70-200 tele

Zouk said:

In my daily scan of Youtube, I came across this video (which had only one view):

Canon 1Dx & 650d

The translated description is "First seen and data devices for testing in romania, for the first time Photohobbyshop."

So, it seems like a retailer has a unit - whether it's for evaluation or for sale remains to be seen. Appears it's this retailer:

http://www.fotohobbyshop.ro/

Guess we'll keep our fingers crossed...

Trevor

Click to expand...

I think he is saying "haha silly Americans, you won't be getting your hands on one of these for another two months."

Axilrod said:

I don't think the system is advanced enough for me to trust it to make all the right moves I want, even if the 5DIII did have it I'm not sure that I'd use it. The cinema industry has been using manual focus since it's inception, most people are used to it. But I'd hate to have to manual focus that 40mm with that tiny focus ring.

Click to expand...

Most ordinary people use point and shoot cameras or camcorders, both of which do autofocus during video. I haven't seen too many people using a DSLR to take sports videos either, manual focus is fine for cinema productions where you rehearse a scene over and over, and the focus puller notes the lens focus positions as each actor moves to their mark on the stage. The method has been used almost since the first movies, and it works - for cinema, that is.

The issue comes when a non cinema photographer wants to take a live video of their kids playing, or a soccer game,, or any situation where there is rapid random movement, and expect to use a DSLR like the 5D MK III.

The T4i is the first Canon DSLR to do this, but expect it to happen to all of them if its successful. It might not be the best solution for cinema, but for ordinary video of kids and sports, it really is going to help.

photography said:

Hey guys and gals! I was just wondering, my family is going on a vacation this summer to London, Paris and Venice. I would for sure bring my Canon 5D Mark II, but don't know what/how many lenses to bring. Seeing all the places are perfect photography spots. Should I carry around more than 1 lens? Also, I have currently, Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM, Canon EF 35mm f/1.4 L USM, Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM and lastly Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM. Which ones should I bring :-[ Also, I saw the 8-15mm fisheye and quite liked it. Are there any owners here who would like to share their experiances with it? Would it be good to use on the trip? Thanks!
Ryan

Click to expand...

take everything.

17-40 you need for buildings and indoors. Where you are going is full of it.

35 f/1.4 is an amazing lens. Low light at night and also streeting.

24-105 I prefer the 24-70, but most of your shots will come from this one

70-200. it is possible to leave this one at home, because when you are out there, it is quite cumbersome to carry it. You will fine that it is not versatile enough to be the main lens. It is useful for landscaping compression and also some street shots of people. Picking out detals of places, buildings. You will definitely need it. Depends if you are prepared to carry it in your bag and is willing to change lens when you are around.

I went travelling with my kit. that is, 16-35II, 24-70, 70-200 IS + 50 1.4. I only shot the 70-200 on the few days when I really needed to shoot with it and had it on my camera all the time. Othertimes when I had it in my bag, I didnt botheer shooting wiht it because I found it was too much effort to change lens, shoot 3 photos and change it back to primary lens.

In the end, lens dont matter. you just shoot with you have. If you have a 50 1.4 you will shoot with that. So ddont worry about the lens too much. Too much fantasising. We all do it. You will find reality when you are shooting on the field. You make do with what ever you have.

good luck.