thx Alan

If the current 7D specs were turned into FF sensor, the camera would slot right between the 5d3 and the 6D

"Thanks for the update .............

First, in real world what I experience is the autofocus from the 1Dx observable better / faster then the MARK4. Recently I did shoot on a subject with the MARK4 and the 1Dx and had about 25% more keepers with the 1Dx.
The subject was a very fast moving bird that stood not still for a half a second. The autofocus of the 1Dx is really amazing, without a doubt. What I like about the MARK 4 is the larger area with autofocuspoints. It is more easy to select an autofocuspoint which match with the composition you create in a picture. Sorry for my English, but I hope you understand what I mean. Still, autofocus of the MARK4 is also very good.
I shoot very often with a converter mounted on my ''old'' 500mm F4.

With the MARK4 autofocus is a bit more slow, so therefore misses some more shots. But whe you have enough time, the MARK4 does also a very good job.

Jan

wickidwombat said:

Jens Lange said:

something i could need help with is image backup.

i will not carry a laptop with me.
i only have a small netbook and i am not willing to do image editing during my vacation anyway.

i am now convinced to shoot JPG and RAW.
but i don´t think i have time (or passion) for image editing on my vacation.

thought i like to have a backup of my SD/CF cards.
what is a good backup device?
something to put the SD/CF cards in and that copys all images onto a harddisk.

i heard there is a good solution from epson (P7000)?
but it´s no longer available.


oh and about the 1.4x teleconverter.
is the canon worth twice as much as a kenko teleconverter (MC PRO 300 DGX 1.4x).
is there a visible difference in image quality?
or anything that makes the kenko worse?

Click to expand...

An android tablet with and On the go cable (OTG cable) a compact card reader / usb hub will let you backup cards to USB drives (You cannot do this on the ipads!)

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Not quite correct. The Camera Connection kit for the iPad + HyperDrive's drive for iPad will do just what you want. There's always a way.

I haven't read all the posts so sorry if I'm repeating anyone else but here is a definitive answer.

The YN-468 II has E-TTL II functionality on-camera. It has E-TTL II functionality off-camera only when controlled with a pair of YN-622 triggers (or other E-TTL II triggers such as the Odin).

The YN-468 II does not have optical wireless E-TTL II capability. It does have optical slave modes (S1/S2) so that any other flash, including your 1100D's on-board flash, can trigger the 468 II off-camera. However, the flash must be set manually via its own controls if it is being fired optically this way.

Your 1100D's on-board flash does not have wireless E-TTL II master capabilities so it cannot provide optical E-TTL II control of any flash.

A pair of YN-622s would give you E-TTL II control over the YN-468 II, just as they would control a 565EX or 568EX, or Canon 430EXII, 580EXII or 600EX. In combination with the 622s, the YN-468 II is your cheapest entry to radio E-TTL II control.

Thanks,

I will try these suggestions!

Mt Spokane Photography said:

michi said:

Compact cameras will sell less and less as digital phones get better.

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Where have you been? Canon has mentioned this in their annual financial reports for at least the last two years, and so has Nikon. They are well aware of the trend to use camera phones rather than point and shoot cameras. That does not mean that P&S cameras don't sell, 80 million were produced in 2012.
checkout 2012 industry wide sales here: http://www.cipa.jp/english/data/pdf/d_2012_e.pdf
BTW Sony has tried to make headway in the cellphone market and lost their shirt, (huge amounts of actual losses)
This actually puts Canon in a good position, because of their very strong DSLR sales and low cost lens production (most people just buy a kit lens).

Click to expand...

Where have I been? Sorry, I don't study companies charts... But fact is, all my friends and family who are not specifically interested in photography have not replaced their point and shoots but are using their cellphones. Fine, Canon may be selling X amount of them still, but it will get less and less as more phones with good cameras are sold. So yes, it will make an impact on the manufacturers eventually, probably sooner than later. I agree it would be silly for Canon to try to make cellphones, but they could for example try to develop a tiny camera unit with exceptional quality which they could then sell to Samsung or Apple for use in their phones.

The end of the rebates has to be music to the ears of 3rd Party Mfg's. I can now see myself seriously considering a Tamron SP 70-200mm f/2.8 Di VC over the Canon 2.8 ISii, especially at 1499.

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-PowerShot-Enabled-Digital-Wide-Angle/dp/B00B5HE3UU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1359673912&sr=8-3&keywords=PowerShot+ELPH+330+HS

The first one is an f/3.0-f/6.9, but it does have faster AF than my old camera.



http://www.amazon.com/Canon-PowerShot-Digital-Wide-Angle-Recording/dp/B00B5HE32I/ref=br_lf_m_1001006271_1_4_ttl?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&s=photo&pf_rd_p=1478487822&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_t=1401&pf_rd_i=1001006271&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=13E1WRTPWW5XCJAAHMFN

f/3.2-f/6.9


http://www.amazon.com/PowerShot-Digital-Camera-Optical-Recording/dp/B00B5HE1SY/ref=br_lf_m_1001006271_1_8_ttl?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&s=photo&pf_rd_p=1478487822&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_t=1401&pf_rd_i=1001006271&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=13E1WRTPWW5XCJAAHMFN

And the cheapest one is f/2.8-f/6.9

It is nice that they fit in your pocket, which comes in very handy sometimes. But, still I would like to see them work on the lens a little more. And when it gets set to portrait mode, it should go to 85mm and then let people change it from there.

paul13walnut5 said:

My own take is that the ef-s line up is pretty well covered, between the EF-s and EF lenses, especially given the likely budgets and aspirations of the aps-c market. Canons kit zooms between the 18-55 and 55-250 combo are pretty good, compact, light, cheap, the uwa could be faster, but how much R&D for how many units?

Canon have upgraded their ef short primes, which make great standard lenses on aps-c.

I think a wider cheap pancake, in ef mount to keep volume up and costs down.

Click to expand...

Yep, Canon has the standard kit (18-55), standard tele (55-250), medium zoom (18-135, 15-85), faster (17-55 f/2.8), ultra-wide (10-22), and ultrazoom (18-200) covered, and that's not counting the 17-85. All at pretty reasonable prices relative to quality; and the ones that could stand to be better (17-85, 18-200) probably wouldn't be appealing at the resulting higher prices. An updated 17-85 would cost the same as a 15-85, so why not just get that already. And an updated 18-200 would rival the price of the 24-105, etc...it'd have to get a pretty major IQ upgrade to be worth the price.

The travel superzoom segment is already well covered by sigma and tamron, who can sell to many more potential users of different systems.

Click to expand...

And then there is this. Making an 18-270/18-300 that is good is not easy, it's usually heavy and bulky and not as desired as people think. So, if you can make one for 3-4 mounts, maybe you can make money...but just making it for EF, that's a tougher sell. Better to release a bunch of decent travel-zoom P+S cameras instead.

I'd much rather see Canon release an EF-S 30mm or EF-S 12-14mm prime before I'd want them going super-zoom. Nikon and Sigma show that the 30/35mm aps-c specific lens can sell; and Samyang seems poised to show that a 10mm prime can sell as well

Used to be a 550d with 70-200 f/4L( nice and inconspicuous), but I've recently purchased an x100 for street work.

@Sarka23, yes you're quite right about the 54mm height of recorded image on 120 film, it's a long time since I've used it now ! But my point really is that digital MF doesn't have the advantage of greatly increased size of recorded image that 6x7 had over 35mm. And 645 was always a little "ho-hum" against 35mm: a great loss of flexibility for a relatively marginal image gain.

Also MF lenses are not necessarily better than FF, the larger the format the more forgiving of the lens.

Your other points accepted, but you don't half have to pay for it.

cayenne said:

Drizzt321 said:

Don't forget to do manual white balance, and you also can use some gels to get all the lighting to be more or less close to the same color temp, which will make it a lot easier to get good looking footage. Don't forget you can use just about anything to flag (block) to get the lighting right where you want it, or use some poster board to reflect light to fill in the side or bottom or your face, or somewhere else. There's a ton you can do with lighting. And use gaffer's tape, a lot easier to work with than duct tape for anything you may not need to permanently tape together.

Click to expand...

I have tried to look for some kind of meter to read color temperature of a room, but man, those things are $$$$$$$$!!

How does one manually 'read' the color temperature of the room? I'm trying to figure the best way to get my kitchen all ONE color temp. It is lit with U10 type halogen lights on track lighting (I'm renting so can't change too many things drastically).

The clamp lights, I bought all CFLs for them...they are all 5000K, and I think the halogens are all about 2700K. I can't find replacements for the halogens any higher than 3000K.

So, not sure what to do, I kinda wanted to shoot things in the sunlight range, but not sure how to compromise this. I'm limited on plugs and outlets, so can't light the whole thing with clamp lights, not to mention, it is a b!tch as it is, trying to keep plugs and cords and lights OUT of frame when shooting.



C

Click to expand...

Take a fairly neutral white object, regular printer paper is OK, not great, but OK, and put it in the lighting, and zoom in to make it take up the vast, vast majority of the frame, especially the center, and take a photo of it. Go into the camera menus and set the custom white balance, and use that photo as the image to take the white balance from. Then you change your camera White Balance mode to use Custom. That's it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5HaRTmbozc is probably a decent enough introduction to it, although I haven't watched it all the way through.

RT can control 5 flash groups instead of just 3, and it supports autoflash (Metering via the sensor integrated in the flash instead by the camera. I.E. it gives me a certain LV regardless of flash/subject distance as if every unit were a independent ETTL group but without the randomness ETTL introduces because of framing and in focus detection).

Do you have some kind of quick release system for your glidecam/camera combo?

privatebydesign said:

bseitz234 said:

Northstar said:

I had a 5d3 now I'm back to a 7D...bummer. ;D

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Hey now, don't be hatin'. I like this 3-years-old piece of fast-burst tech.

Similarly unrelated, I've been contemplating picking up a film camera, never had one, but I figure I have the lenses, and there's something so... tactile about film, I kind of want to experiment. Sounds like folks like the AE-1? ;-)

Click to expand...

What lenses do you have? Your EOS EF ones won't work on the AE-1! If you want a cool film camera that will work with your lenses get a 3, or better yet a 1V.

Click to expand...

Excellent point, thank you! Think b&h has both of those available... will have to have a gander.

chasinglight, the 7D is an awesome camera, set correctly. Note coreyhkh's comment about setting his AI Servo to 'slow'. If you buy a 7D, pay close attention to the Custom Functions (CF) of the camera and the focus & drive settings within. They are key to the killer AF capabilities that the 7D has and, if needed, refer online for further info as the owners manual is not complete in it's explanation of the CF settings.
Great shots by the way and corey, your shots are excellent, too!

mfumbesi said:

TLN said:

Hello.

I got this lens, and we got quite a big topic on this on a russian board: http://club.foto.ru/forum/11/371438,47

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I actually followed your link, and of course it is all in Russian. I ;D

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Obviously. Did you expect different language on russian board? )
It's a bit harder to understand, but you can still check out all the images out there.

Mikael Risedal said:

Have I said anything else? from the crop 1,5 =15.3 Mp from the Nikon D800 compare to Canon 7d the pixels in the Nikon has higher QE compare to 7d APS

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Repeat: this thread is about resolution, not your all-time-favorite topic on dynamic range and SNR.

I could see a hotshoe bubble level coming in handy whichever head you buy.

the ones you have are fine....

You may be interested to know that the 60D has a 640 by 400 cropped video mode.

I shoot on a 60D.

For a project at work we tried out a 400f5.6 and the 100-400 lens. The 400 took better pictures.

At home, I have a Sigma 120-400, it sits between the 400 and 100-400 for quality. Most of the time that I am using it it is at the 400mm end, and qui often I am lusting over the 600, but it is beyond my camera budget and more weight than I am willing to carry hiking or canoeing.

If I were to start again I would get the 400f5.6. If canon ever comes out with a 500f6.3 I will probably be lining up to get it..... A bit more reach but still light enough to pack...

Welcome!
I love this place. I'm a working professional, but I've not been doing this so long. I learn so much here, it's always refreshing.