PaulFurlong said:

I just purchased Cannon 650D for videoing as my son said it’s the way I gotta go rather than video camera. I’m impressed with the contrast & colour, BUT I just discovered it only videos 29mins then turns off…
Does anyone know if there is any way around this as I needed it to record 1-1.5hrs continual?

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Sorry there is no way to make it actually record longer than that with stopping and starting again. There are camera hacks that auto restart the camera, but you still have a 1 second delay between shots.

The black card idea is interesting, but a studio still-life like this seems a perfect candidate to bracket exposures for a composite image. I don't (necessarily) mean feeding it to an HDR program, but more "old school" style, combining the parts of each image that are properly exposed. This would give you maximum flexibility to expose each part exactly as you like.

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this would not work as you would see still see the reflection of the card/box (whatever it is) on each side of the bottle and glass. the black card use is to eliminate that reflection all together in order to reveal the bottle itself more.

Do not really understand what you asking, but I so do not like the bounce boards being visible...

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this is what i'm talking about. this is a problem of Angle of Incidence = Angle of Reflectance compounded by the curved reflective surface of the bottle and glass. to minimize the effect (or size) of the "highlight" on the bottle you have to use a dark object to block that area that is being reflected.

Well done

donate it to a local college / community group for adult education or a photography club.

cheers

cute

ordinarily I'd turn the subject's body to the camera.... but in this case you want to see all the badges etc...

Update: Well my EOS software had the 135L lens already checked but I guess I never synced the camera. I selected a few more lens combos (1.4 III ext) and closed the software (no "sync" or "ok" button - weird) and now the camera says Data available for that lens. Now I need to check all of my other lenses on that body.

Thanks for the help.

neuroanatomist said:

pdirestajr said:

I haven't done a test, but wouldn't I have a shallower DOF if I used my 5DII with my 100mm macro with the same framing- ie: I'd have to be significantly closer with the 5D?

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Yes, at the same f/stop, the DoF would be shallower with FF. But when you consider diffraction (you can stop down the lens more on the FF sensor before diffraction costs you sharpness), there's no 'APS-C gives deeper DoF' benefit. Both formats can achieve the same deepest DoF for a given amount of diffraction, but the FF can achieve shallower DoF if desired. Just another benefit to the amazing FF sensor.

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+1 In addition, for the same DoF, infinity background blur (dependent on physical size of entrance pupil in an imaging setup) would be more with FF format as it allows larger entrance pupil. Could be little to significant depending on other parameter. In simple words, it can provide better subject isolation with right setup and object distance.

wickidwombat said:

For dynamic range, and highest possible IQ
as it was at iso 100 the sky can blow out really easily
I could have used Iso 400 and a faster shutter

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Indeed, I recently noticed that dr @iso100 is not much different from iso400, or iso800 for that matter. Not because Canon has great high iso dr, but low iso dr is so crappy vs. Nikon: http://www.sensorgen.info/

wickidwombat said:

also funnily enough back on topic, when going through the images of this shoot I didnt take a single shot wide open. I was using the 85 f1.4 on the 5Dmk3 and the 16-35 on the 5Dmk2 (my favourite combo) most shots i was at between f5.6 to f8

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Exactly, I noticed that, too (and it's in line with the book I mentioned in the op) - but I didn't write it because I'd fear to be flamed to a crisp

Oh no. Here we go again...

The more I think about it, the more the 24-70 f4 seems like a replacement for someone moving from a crop+17-40 to FF ... with a bit more range.... but the price kills the deal.

I almost bought the 5DmkIII this Christmas season, but decided I did not have the cash. I can only hope the prices go down in spring. I will have time to think about spending twice as much for the 1DX in the meantime. They seem to be in two different worlds, but I know I would spend a very happy retirement enjoying the 1DX if I can bring myself to pay for it. It would probably take me a few years to learn all it's tricks, and I would like learning something new each time I went out with it. The 5D would be great as well, and maybe that will be the one. Since I drive a modest Ford Ranger, and don't spend money on new cars, I think I can bring myself to splurge on the camera I want. And that exotic 8-15 fisheye just to be crazy.

It shouldn't do that obviously, If it is still happening, do a camera reset, remove the battery for 5 minutes or so, and try again. If it is still happening, since its a new lens, it is possibly related, and you might have to exchange it. While lenses do not store AFMA, they do store the AF calibration settings done at the factory or service center, and there could be a firmware issue or communication issue.

6D or 5D Mark III if you can afford it. I got my 5D3 for $2600. Keep on the lookout for deals. If you can afford it, keep your 7D and 17-55. You'll miss it if you sell it. If your 18-135 is the first edition, sell it or give it away. It's a piece of crap, for lack of a better description. Actually if there was a EF mount on a real piece of crap, it might take better photos. Obviously, you know that already, since you don't use it anymore.

Chosenbydestiny said:

I don't know how you can't see it. I saw it right away after borrowing a 100L and comparing it to my 135mm and 85mm lenses. Macro images look horrible for head and shoulder shots. I can even see it in full body portraits. Color wise, sharpness wise, they're over the top.

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Like privatebydesign, I seem to be in the humble "can't see it" group - could you please elaborate what exactly "over the top" concerning color/sharpness means?

hey, does the zoom ring actually go the same way as canon lenses?(the "correct" way I might add haha)

My photographic background and lightning system got ruined 2011 after hail broke the glass of my conservatory.

I would have bought at Manfrotto, al of the holders... would have cost 1600€.
So I bought it at Phottix and other Chines companies and saved more then 900€!!!!

sandymandy said:

no problem im often writing in gibberish so its hard to understand me

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I think you make a strong point, and what makes it even more important is that when you move away from a screen and go ahead and print it, it becomes quite noticeable. I have done that mistake myself (wanting to make it black'er than it originally was). Further there is a dilemma, because by doing it more black (skilfully or not) it is because you want to emphazise the subject. However by doing so, one also remove some depth in the shot... i.e. making a case for more details in the black/grey areas....

dave said:

When was the last time an integrated grip body was $4500?

With the new tech it would be an about-face from existing pricing trends.

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Ah, I guess you're right. It doesn't necessarily need an integrated grip but I think I remember the 1D MarkIV hitting that MSRP before being discontinued and I assume it will priced above the 5D yet still have to compete with Nikon's $3000 high megapixel camera so I figured what better way than to give it a higher grade feel but pixels that small and a resolution that high I doubt Image Quality and Shoot Features would be close enough to 1D X's price range.

Hmm the more I talk about this the more I think it'll end up being something like a 5D3 body with just a new 40+MP sensor for $4000 like a "4D" or "5D3s" lol. Hey, h.265 just got ok'd too and they promise 4k with it so maybe that's what Canon is waiting for; a 5D3 with a 44MP sensor and 4K H.265 video with 4fps bursts and a 4" LCD screen called the EOS-4D LOL Japan would hate it ;-P

you are paying all than £££ for the 5Dmkiii whats a few more to protect the screen, its for peace of mind more then anything else.

When i picked up my new 5D i put the Canon LCD screen protection on before i left the shop

Thank you for the replies. I decided to go with a new 400/5.6 on the last day of Canon rebates. I plan to take this with me to Australia and figure out what to do about a longer telephoto at the end of the year. From my reseach this appears to outperform the 70-200/2.8 II + 2x III significantly in both image quality and AF. The lack of IS isn't hugely important to me as I plan to use it mostly on my monopod and I typically use high shutter speeds anyways for birds. This also shouldn't increase the weight of my bag too much.

For underwater, I am thinking about buying a simple underwater camera (<$300) before I go. I have thought about buying a housing for some time, but I just do not take enough of those photos to justify it. I also considered renting a housing - either from a place here or in Australia - but I am a bit concerned about putting my primary (and only) DSLR in a rental housing thousands of miles from home. Most of my photos should be from the surface (snorkeling) so it should do OK.

hmmm of course you are right, maybe a admin can remove my post to the right thread

Thanks Neuro. My heart, and near empty CC said yes, but my gut said no

Depending on my finances in 12 months, I'll look at either a 500 or 600, series II, second hand. I don't have an issue spending $$$ on something I'll have for the next 20 years. But, holding that 500 f4.5 in my hands was soooo tempting

Thanks for all the responses, particularly the relative comparisons between the various lenses with and without extenders. You've given me a lot to think about regarding lenses and potentially saved me some buyers remorse regarding the 7D.

Much appreciated!

RLPhoto said:

This lens was DOA. It really needs to be around 749$ for me to ditch my 24-105L.

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+1

This lens is badly overpriced for what it brings to the table. I think Canon is going to be forced to dramatically drop the price in order to sell these things.

JerryKnight said:

Don't get the tilt-shift unless you have a very specific need for it. It's an extremely expensive niche lens that you really should only use for its tilt-shift feature.

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-1 ... The 24L TS makes a great 24mm lens even if you don't use the TS features. The performance of this lens is really outstanding ... Learning how to use it to its maximum potential is an altogether different matter.