dave said:

When was the last time an integrated grip body was $4500?

With the new tech it would be an about-face from existing pricing trends.

Click to expand...

Ah, I guess you're right. It doesn't necessarily need an integrated grip but I think I remember the 1D MarkIV hitting that MSRP before being discontinued and I assume it will priced above the 5D yet still have to compete with Nikon's $3000 high megapixel camera so I figured what better way than to give it a higher grade feel but pixels that small and a resolution that high I doubt Image Quality and Shoot Features would be close enough to 1D X's price range.

Hmm the more I talk about this the more I think it'll end up being something like a 5D3 body with just a new 40+MP sensor for $4000 like a "4D" or "5D3s" lol. Hey, h.265 just got ok'd too and they promise 4k with it so maybe that's what Canon is waiting for; a 5D3 with a 44MP sensor and 4K H.265 video with 4fps bursts and a 4" LCD screen called the EOS-4D LOL Japan would hate it ;-P

you are paying all than £££ for the 5Dmkiii whats a few more to protect the screen, its for peace of mind more then anything else.

When i picked up my new 5D i put the Canon LCD screen protection on before i left the shop

Thank you for the replies. I decided to go with a new 400/5.6 on the last day of Canon rebates. I plan to take this with me to Australia and figure out what to do about a longer telephoto at the end of the year. From my reseach this appears to outperform the 70-200/2.8 II + 2x III significantly in both image quality and AF. The lack of IS isn't hugely important to me as I plan to use it mostly on my monopod and I typically use high shutter speeds anyways for birds. This also shouldn't increase the weight of my bag too much.

For underwater, I am thinking about buying a simple underwater camera (<$300) before I go. I have thought about buying a housing for some time, but I just do not take enough of those photos to justify it. I also considered renting a housing - either from a place here or in Australia - but I am a bit concerned about putting my primary (and only) DSLR in a rental housing thousands of miles from home. Most of my photos should be from the surface (snorkeling) so it should do OK.

hmmm of course you are right, maybe a admin can remove my post to the right thread

Thanks Neuro. My heart, and near empty CC said yes, but my gut said no

Depending on my finances in 12 months, I'll look at either a 500 or 600, series II, second hand. I don't have an issue spending $$$ on something I'll have for the next 20 years. But, holding that 500 f4.5 in my hands was soooo tempting

Thanks for all the responses, particularly the relative comparisons between the various lenses with and without extenders. You've given me a lot to think about regarding lenses and potentially saved me some buyers remorse regarding the 7D.

Much appreciated!

RLPhoto said:

This lens was DOA. It really needs to be around 749$ for me to ditch my 24-105L.

Click to expand...

+1

This lens is badly overpriced for what it brings to the table. I think Canon is going to be forced to dramatically drop the price in order to sell these things.

JerryKnight said:

Don't get the tilt-shift unless you have a very specific need for it. It's an extremely expensive niche lens that you really should only use for its tilt-shift feature.

Click to expand...

-1 ... The 24L TS makes a great 24mm lens even if you don't use the TS features. The performance of this lens is really outstanding ... Learning how to use it to its maximum potential is an altogether different matter.

aaronh said:

I do a few weddings here and there but mostly portraits, and travel photography.

Click to expand...

I'd suggest you retain your current setup and save up for the 5d3. For what you shoot I would consider the 70-200 2.8 II exceptionally useful ... Selling this lens for the f/4 may turn out to be a decision you end up regretting.

Also IMHO for what you shoot I don't think that the AF of the 5d3 is essential ... It would be great to have it but you really shouldn't be selling the lens for that. The 70-200 2.8 II will AF better on the 5d3 (you can use the dual cross type AF points) as compared to the 70-200 f/4.

;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Pick up the 5dmkiii today..i went for the 24-105 'kit' lens in the end, i am like a kid with a new toy... ;D ;D

I have only had chance to take a couple of test pic's so far but that is enough to know this is the camera for me...I am off to Harbin in North China next week, where they have the Ice Festival, so will give the camera a real test there....will post some shots on my return.

thanks again for all the advice...let the fun begin!!!!! ;D ;D ;D

Besides, medium format lenses rarely go faster than f3.5. So an adapter with a focal reducer from MF to FF won't be much of help... just more optics getting in the way...

Hello to everyone! This site has interested me for a couple of years, but I only just got around to joining. The information and opinion I read, are usually time well spent. I commend you all for your time, effort, and knowledge.

I chose Canon because, well, it seemed like the best brand at the time. It still does. I dare say, it is.

I freely admit that I am not the photographer I want to be, yet. Also not sure what it is I do want to be. But I am not young anymore, I'm middle aged. I hope you all can tolerate my input. I admit I need to learn restraint, given what's happened in the past...in a different online forum, in a different hobby.

My education is undergraduate in Fine Art, graphic design. I never have gone very far with that. Everyone suddenly had to become a web designer, and that never interested me. It probably should have. Maybe I need to learn to write mobile apps before that becomes obsolete? Haha...

I didn't become heavily interested in digital photography until 2007, 2008. I did participate in the film era, but didn't do much with it. The photographer Marc Adamus, with his cover shot of Crater Lake in 2007 or so, was sort of what really sparked my inner photo artist. I have since owned several digital cameras, and two DSLR's. I have a very few quality lenses, but have rented quite a few others. I have probably shot over 30,000 images, but I don't have my own website...yet. One of my photos has been published once, last year, in a national magazine. At this time, I have kind of run out of images to submit, that are on that level. I live in the South, and we don't have Yosemite or Yellowstone out our front doors...but we still have some nice scenery. I admit the western USA (and Canada) have better scenery, but I still prefer living here.

I am beginning to think, that photography as we know it, won't exist a few decades from now, so I am happy I can participate in it, while it does exist...and happy to see the work of others. I tend to get lost in my artistic passions at times, which inhibits getting work done. I also have a reaction when I see a really decent photograph, which tells me I could never capture a shot that well...even though deep down, I know I probably could get close...it still lingers. Ahh the soul of a troubled artist! Anyone else ever have that feeling?

I also am aware that I can write decently well, and get long-winded...so those of you who stop reading after two sentences, will never have to waste time on me! Also, no, I don't speak aloud like this...if I did, I would be "kitt" the talking car, or some other robot...haha! (and after a decade of typing "LOL"...I just had to give it up...it just feels right to go without it!)

Cheers! Carl

CarlTN said:

I do enjoy gigapan images, but I wonder if there is a commercial appeal? How much money can you make by taking gigapan images (if you want to, that is)? I mean, I would really rather look at a very large (or even just a 40x60) print, rather than zoom in on a computer screen. Is there a market for selling billboard-size prints that people can place their noses against?

Click to expand...

That is a great question as it seems that so many on the web are obsessed with resolution.
I did read an article about a fellow who used one to make hi res images of house interiors.Fine art applications are also a possibility but one is limited to minimal motion in the subject. For me, I use traditional image stitching to generate hi res images of art work for giclee printing.

The LX7 is quite pocketable, and is a bit smaller than a m 4/3 with a "fast" lens on it. It mostly depends on how small your pockets are, I suppose. If you want to talk ISO, the Pentax with it's 1.5x crop sensor, can do ISO 25,600, with noise that can be very workable in post, with decent color. It can fit in a large coat pocket. If you're female or have really small or tight pockets, then I would just suggest a small smartphone or something (smaller than a Samsung Galaxy, etc.).

The P7000 was small enough to be pocketable, but I usually just hung it around my neck. It's about half the size and weight of the G1x, and about 75% of the size and weight of the G12. The P7100 was the "updated" version, but it could only go up to ISO 6400 (dimensions and weight about the same as the P7000). The P7000 could do ISO 12,800, but at a very reduced resolution, and only in jpeg mode. That said...considering the sensor's size, those images were certainly usable for web-sized format (the color wasn't great, though). The P7700, looks like it might be the same size as the G1x. Those two are niche cameras, in my opinion, meant to be worn around the neck.

I mean, the ultimate compact camera for low light street photography, would be a Leica with a noctilux lens. Hardly pocketable, but smaller and lighter than a DSLR. Of course, it would be cheaper to just hire several top class photographers and let them do the work for you.

The 1D3 is a fantastic camera, and even though it has been replaced a few times in the lineup, it offers very good performance. I own one, and the only reason I'm going to be selling it is because I need to pick up a gen 2 70-200is and I own some newer 1D cameras. I never had any notable problems before it went in for service, and when I got it back, it was even better.

I think you will be very, very happy.

My solution, get both. Then, shoot weddings exclusively with the 17mm tilt shift. Your unique perspective will set you apart in the field.

Likewise architecture: only 70-200. Tell your clients their interiors are the problem not your shooting technique. If they can't convey the room in a 2x2ft area of that room, you are not at fault.

You will be called a visionary, an artist unwilling to compromise to conformity.

marekjoz said:

Does anybody use eye-fi with cf adapter?

Click to expand...

I use the eye-fi with my 5d MK ii, works fine..just one caveat, ONLY ONE BRAND will work with the Canon, it's the 'Delock' adapter only available out of the UK or Germany. Google 'Delock' CF card adapter for a list of dealers and ordering instructions

TWI by Dustin Abbott said:

I have the Yongnuo Y-622C E-TTL triggers, and I have no problem with syncing even at 1/250th. No black at the bottom of the frame. I am no more limited than I was with either 60D or 5DII. I should note, however, that the flashs that I just tested (580EXII) automatically go into High Speed sync mode at 1/200th or more. For my purposes that has not been an issue, although I read that flash output is somewhat reduced in that mode. I am typically dialing down flash output anyway as I prefer a softer look. I don't think that my workflow is at all changed by the sync speed.

The same flash mounted on the camera does limit shutter speed to 1/180th unless HSS is enabled.

Click to expand...

Just thinking out load here.
But surely the power wouldn't drop that much if only changing the shutter from 1/180th to 1/200th. The major drop in power only really drops when you go 1/500th +

Hello there all on this topic. I use 70-200 II plus 1.4 and 2x. Also 100-400, 400 5.6, 400 f4. Undoubtably 400f4 IS is best route for sublime results. I regularly use 70-200 plus 2x and get excellent images. The only proviso is you must have great light. In the UK only good for limited use however when BIF in Portugal, Spain clear sunny days etc, brilliant. Most versatile and portable combination and sublime lens coupled with 1, 5 or 7D for Candid, portrait, insects, birds, sports, weddings etc. Still get fast AF and bright finder in bright light. Believe me its true. Dont expect to get fast AF on any body lens combo in dull conditions. I have captured fast flight kite surfers, sports and BIF with 70-200 II LIS. I must reiterate, great light=fast AF and sharp images. Failing that USE FLASH. One 580EXII or 600 plus lightweight stand set up strategically will suffice. Oh yes, also constant aperture naked or with 1.4/2x combo.

Wide open f/1.4 taken with the basic Canon EF 50 f/1.4 lens.

Full frame and the center crop (she signed the release forms just fine once I held the food back for a day or two). Not an artistic effort, just a snap to test the lens.

Had to sharpen it on LR, but this is good performance wide open (f/1.4) given the low price.

a used 40mm pancake for $98, the original owner thought he broke.

easily fixed with a firmware update

bholliman said:

brad-man said:

I have both lenses, so I feel qualified to reply until Dustin gets back to you. The answer is everything, with the exceptions of reach & build quality. The Tamron is faster, optically superior in every way and has superior IS. You loose the 35mm on the long end, but you can crop with no real loss of IQ. Build quality of both are superb, though the Canon seems to be a little stouter.

Click to expand...

TWI by Dustin Abbott said:

Build quality is pretty similar, the Canon wins for focal length, obviously, but the Tamron is sharper, has better transition to ooF and bokeh, has far less vignetting and distortion, has 1 stop better Image Stabilization, and, of course, the elephant in the room, is a stop faster.

I like the Canon a lot; it has served me well. I like the Tamron better. I reviewed the Tamron fairly extensively on my website:

http://www.dustinabbott.net/2012/11/tamron-sp-24-70mm-f2-8-di-vc-usd-review/

Click to expand...

Thanks for the information on the Tamron 24-70 2.8 VC and excellent review link. I am happy with my 24-105 for landscapes and general outdoor shooting, but its not an ideal indoor, natural light lens. I have fast 35mm and 50mm primes that I generally use indoors, but a zoom helps you get more shots when you can't "foot zoom" fast enough to get the shot. I'd love to have the Canon 24-70 L II, but its definitely not in my budget.

We have a big family event coming up in a few weeks. I think I'll rent a Tamron and try it out.

Click to expand...

That is a good decision. Trying before buying is probably always better than listening to other's opinions.

+1 on the TS-E 17. That is what I use for most of my RE interiors. For exteriors the TS-E 24 II is king (the TS-E 17 is usually too wide). If you're a bit worried about tilt shifts, the 16-35/2.8 II is a decent lens and is what I used before tilt shifts. In all cases make sure to have your camera level on the tripod to get the verticals right. Missed verticals are the #1 mistake by beginners.

I love the 70-200 f/4L IS even though it's noisy! However for travel I would opt for the versatility of the 300, if I had one. On a crop that is gonna give you some serious reach. For me personally even f/4 isn't wide enough for indoor stuff, but since you'll most likely be using it outdoors (right?) for wildlife etc in bright daylight (which is the time most tourists go out n about) you'll be alrite with the varying aperture as you zoom. That actually does my head in I pref to keep the aperture constant but thats a different argument!

I also like the size of the 70-300, seems it would go nicely with a rebel. I believe it's more compact than the 70-200, that can make a difference when lugging gear around in a backpack.

Have you tried them out? You should test them at a local camera store if you can and then see which one feels right you.

I just don't do post processing in a normal fashion. That is what I would like to get away from. It can be months or years before I get back to looking at the pictures I take. I enjoy taking pictures more than looking at them.

I would worry about the battery life issue. It would be nice to connect the phone's GPS with the Raspberry Pi and then have it write to the EXIF data...