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HoneyBadger · Dec 31, 2012

I just got mine out and tested it. Here is what happens. Under autofocus it makes noise when the camera does it. It makes no noise when I move it myself. Under manual focus, it makes the same noise as if it was under autofocus and the camera was moving it. So, YES it does make noise in manual mode and it is quite loud. I am using it on a 5dIII with the updated firmware.

Dec 31, 2012

Albi86 said:
My premise was that the 6D is capable of very good IQ - as the 5D2 already was 4 years ago. There's really no surprise about that, being a well-established technology.

What concerns me is how users' opinions vary awfully depending on the brand. In the numerous 5D3 vs D600/D800 debates, Nikon cameras where found faulty exactly in those segments in which the 6D is even faultier (e.g. AF, weather sealing, build quality, etc). All those valid arguments - apparently - no not apply to products with Canon branding. On top on that, the 6D cannot compensate with cutting edge sensor performance and it's a full 300€ more expensive than the D600.

All my favourite lenses are 3rd party (except the 135/2), so I very much don't care about the brand of my body. I'm still undecisive whether to buy a 5D3 or a D600, but if it was D600 or 6D, I would really have very few doubts. Considering the 6D is mainly aimed at crop-upgraders, I'm really dubious about what the concrete reasons for not switching system are

I think you should buy a D600.

jonathan7007 · Dec 31, 2012

Clive,
I saw the link to your review/research in another thread and plan to read it. Thanks for posting the link again.

Here, though, I want to ask if -- in combined use with Speedlites -- anyone has fired all lights by using an extra Odin receiver [in some way plugged into] their studio-style pack. The Odins and Yongnuo units expect a hotshoe but I think a "hotshoe-to-whatever" adapter exists. My Normans expect a household-style (male) two-prong cord just like an AC cord.

jonathan7007

BL · Dec 31, 2012

fantastic, much obliged for the valuable feedback!

looks like i'll be sticking with the 5Dc for this generation. i too have had favorable results using the center point, but was hoping the 6D offered something different in regards to AF and outer points.

thanks again!

zim · Dec 30, 2012

verysimplejason said:
zim said:

You don’t have to get the latest a greatest galaxy to get good photos, I’m sure I posted elsewhere on here but for an experiment I got a display walls worth of 16x12s printed for a school trip my wife was running and I was amazed at the (relative) quality of them, didn’t think they would stand up to that sort of enlargement but hey they were loved by the intended audience. It goes without saying that photos intended for the interweb are just fine too. The biggest problem with all camera phones for me is shutter lag so she’s got an app that purports to help but I think it just cripples the res. I also hate holding at arm’s length, it’s just the most rubbish way to take a photo. That’s why I think the ‘M’ is such a joke it’s got the worst two features of a camera phone and you can’t even make a call with it

Click to expand...

I don't think holding at arms length is a rubbish way to take photos. Live view is a very good way of taking landscape photos. Also, it depends on the preference of the user. It might not be for you but don't generalize. A lot of users are fine with taking pictures using a live view.

Yeh live view with a bleedin tripod!
I’m not generalising Jason, It’s my opinion. I struggle to think of a less stable way of taking a photograph. Oh wait standing on one leg whilst holding a camera at arms length… yip that would do it ;D

Dec 30, 2012

I shoot exclusively in manual, yes. I have a pixel king grip on it as well. At least I know for now no need to think about having to return anything.

Chris_prophotographic · Dec 30, 2012

It seems Mpix will take a TIFF if you browse by *.*

Haydn1971 · Dec 30, 2012

Google "Canon 6D Flickr"

Problem solved ;-)

bdunbar79 · Dec 30, 2012

Well, I own both cameras (as do several other members of this forum) and if you want my main differences, I'll share them.

The first is spot-metering. Sometimes I use spot-metering, let the camera read back the settings, then I make a decision what to set everything to in Manual mode. The nice thing about the 1DX is that spot-metering is linked to any active AF point, whereas the 5D Mark III only does so at center. This is useful in certain situations.

The next things are the dual-cross type AF points on the 1DX down the center, and face-recognition AF is 61-point or zone AF is selected. Again, this could be very useful in certain situations.

The biggest thing for me is EC in "faux M" mode. With the 1DX, in Custom Functions, you can set shutter speed ranges and aperture ranges (CFn.2) and also use ISO Safety shift (CFn.1). So what I can do is set TV mode to 1/500 let's say. I then can set my minimum aperture to f/2.8, and maximum aperture to f/2, if I'm using a 135 f/2L. I then turn ISO safety shift to ON. I can now set EC to whatever I like, such as +2/3 or +1 or whatever you'd like. I've pretty much just transformed TV mode to M mode with EC. What the camera will do here, is if there is not much light, will widen the aperture to f/2 FIRST. If there still isn't enough light, it will then raise the ISO value to whatever need be. This is just an example. You can do it in AV mode with min and max shutter speeds as well.

12 fps is really cool too!

The 5D Mark III has advantages too. Its silent shutter mode really is silent, and I utilized this feature at the tennis matches and golf matches I was shooting. Really usefull feature.

The 5D Mark III's biggest advantage is resolution. 22MP becomes significant with heavy cropping. I have taken samples with a 70-200 f/2.8L II IS lens and cropped the same ratio, and there is more detail loss in the 1DX files. What is odd though, is that the 1DX files remained just as sharp looking as the 5D3 files, and more highlight and shadow detail could be retained with the 1DX files. So there is actually going to be an IQ difference for pixel peepers, both good and bad for each camera.

In auto ISO in manual mode, the 1DX will expose "darker" than the 5D Mark III. This is well known. There is good and bad to that obviously. To avoid that, if you have a 1DX, use EC.

Both cameras are truly excellent. Consider the main differences and decide what you really need. When my nephew was born, I took all of the photos of him for the first 3 months with a 5D Mark III and various lenses and I am so exceptionally happy with the camera! I have also shot a ton of sports with the 1DX, and again, much more satisfied with that camera than when I had the 1D Mark IV.

Good luck in your decision!

Mt Spokane Photography · Dec 30, 2012

Extenders don't generally work well with retrofocus lenses. Thats why they specify using them with a lens of 100mm or longer. It might physically function with the 50, but you might not be happy with the results.

K-amps · Dec 30, 2012

neuroanatomist said:
JaxPhotographer said:

...the SX50 HS...can shoot in RAW format.

Click to expand...

Didn't know that, thanks!

Great site... Indeed. I just pulled the plug on an SX50 just now. ;D

willis · Dec 30, 2012

Thanks for replies, have to keep looking for.. :

BrandonKing96 · Dec 30, 2012

So I have this 3rd party BG-E9 grip. I've had it for probably a little over a year now. However, I dropped it around 8 months ago and the lock for the battery compartment broke. that discouraged me a little. But that's not my problem. I picked it up again to try and use it (still works and all. I missed the grip), but there was a sticky substance on it. No one has spilt anything or it or the likes. I cleaned it and it was not sticky anymore. But then it's stayed on my shelf for another 2 months with no use and still there's this sticky substance on it. i'm just curious as to what's happening. not that it doesn't contain a battery in side as I alternate them now in my 60D (and 5D 3). It's just really interesting. I also caught a whif of the smell on my hands and it smelt sort of mechanical (I don't know how to explain it. The downside of being a musician).

~BrandonKing96

Krob78 · Dec 30, 2012

RLPhoto said:
I had the same choice on my lap. An aging 5Dc and either the 5D2 or 5D3?

I was never impressed enough with the 5D2 as an overall camera but the d700 felt like a complete package. The d700 had everything except video and resolution from my 5Dc and that it can't take EF lenses.

So I skipped the mk2 cameras entirely and went straight into a mk3. It's all the camera I could ever need and won't be outgrowing it any time soon.

I'm with you Rev. Decided to skip the 5d2 and the 7d2 and went straight to the 5D MK III. Very happy I did! Now, I still have my 7D, but unless it's a wicked crazy upgrade, 7D2 probably won't happen for me... I'm liking the 5D III!

Krob78 · Dec 30, 2012

I think they're giving just enough time between the 7D and the 7D Mark II to be able to classify it as a "Legend!" 7D has been a great camera! ;D I'll be sad to see it go! :'(

Krob78 · Dec 30, 2012

verysimplejason said:
coreyhkh said:

I you just take pictures of people and stuff then the 6d would be fine. Anything else then the 7D kills the 6D, also people complain about the noise on the 7D far too much, generally if you take a good picture and no Photoshop then its not a problem.

Click to expand...

I think more accurately, if you take good pictures in good light then 7D definitely is better than 6D. But in low-light, 6D is far superior than 7D. I've got a 500D and I think this is comparable to 7D ISO performance. I only raise the ISO to 1600 if it's the last option. 3200, only if I really need to get the shot. I always envy my friend who's using a 5D2 and doesn't have any trouble going to 6400. There are also times that you want to raise your ISO for stopping the motion. Even if you've got a great AF, if you don't stop the motion or at least pan, it's useless. Just recently, I've shoot my daughter's theatrical concert and almost all of my shots are taken @ 1600 and 3200. I asked the organizer why the stage is so dimly lit. The pictures though are still usable in the internet but I hesitate to have it displayed in a 40 inches TV monitor to have my relatives view it. I had just stored them in my IPAD for their viewing.

I think you nailed it Jason... I've got lots of great high iso images with my 7D, lots of them, but the key is absolutely lots of light! Take that same camera and a f/2.8 lens into a room not so well lit and the noise drives you crazy... especially if you're shooting portraits.

The 7D just isn't made for portrait work in my opinion. The noise in the shadows is terrible in low light... get them outdoors or get your softboxes set up and it's much better, but inside or portrait work, even with lighting can be difficult when it comes to noise in the shadows and the 7D. Just makes for much more work in post... yuck... I've got a multitude of wonderful portraits from my 7D but it's been a lot of work in post...

Cgdillan · Dec 29, 2012

I know! it was amazing. and they really were very quite as they came up behind her.

Dec 29, 2012

Velo Steve said:
I'd love to see some discussion of shooting and traveling with a camera in tropical conditions. I'll be spending almost a month on ships, boats, and kayaks, and on foot near the water. I'm pretty happy with my body and lens selection, but it's the moisture I'm worried about. The top two issues are:
1) How to carry the camera when I won't be using it but I might fall in the water or briefly drop a bag.
2) How to protect the camera and lens while shooting, but in light rain, falling moisture from vegetation, etc.

I have a little D10 for snapshots when it's really wet, but I'm really looking for how to use my 5D III with good results and no damage.

Steve. Start up a thread about this. I would also like to learn more, especially about cleaning/drying the equipment. I livr in the tropics since a few years. I take no special precautions I would say. I have Lowepro bags and a cheap knock off Crumpler slingbag. I am usin my 5D3 and previously a 60D. The worst thing so far is that my 24-105 took bad hit while shooting a 6 minute video while walking in thejungle. After keeping it in air conditioned room for 24 hour it had dried up again. Now working perfect again. 5D3 can take some bad weather in terms of rain, probably more than we think.

emag · Dec 29, 2012

28-135 would be a disservice to the 6D. A mediocre lens.

eek · Dec 29, 2012

Glad I ordered my 5D MK II body ($1529.00/Amazon) the other day, price's today are $1799.00 at Amazon,B&H etc...
Thanks All

Marek Truchlik · Dec 29, 2012

I use CPL whenever light conditions approve it. For Macro shot always. I like that saturated colors.

serendipidy · Dec 29, 2012

You're very welcome. Best wishes for many great shots.

distant.star · Dec 29, 2012

.
Correction!!

Sale ends tomorrow, midnight. (December 31, 2012)

Dylan777 · Dec 29, 2012

stessel tank said:
Santa had in his bag

1dx & 16-35 2.8 mk2 and gp-e1

been charging up the battery and doing firmware updates to 1.1.1

new toys to play with this weekend

That's awesome.....have fun.

rs · Dec 29, 2012

If you're considering something as bulky as the LX7, there are a few m43 cameras around for similar money. Similar thing really, compact but not really pocketable. However if you really want sharp and clear results, the lens will make or break the end results. Choose the right one and it'll be in a different league to any compact camera.

For myself, I wanted a high quality pocketable camera, and ended up buying an S90 for the times I didn't want to carry around an SLR. It's a great compact camera, but since getting an iPhone 5 (which like any good compact produces competent images without challenging any SLR, but it is truly pocketable, always charged and always on me) I've found I only ever want to use the S90 if I want to control the shutter speed but don't want to lug around the SLR - which isn't often.

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