dturano said:

Please post some non macro shots using the 100mm f/2.8L

Click to expand...

Sample shots won't tell you about the main advantages of the L lens - somewhat better build quality, fast af and hybrid is. IS bumps up the kept shots vs. bad ones, and so does a precise af. But when shots are posted of course it's the "keepers" but people usually don't give away their ratio.

he used nikkor lens

When did u order it ?

So then you are using the contrast autofocus... As long as you have Anouilh live that should work... But is very slow. As you noticed

I think this just means lr has got better at producing correct profiles over the years. The d3 profile showed a lot of difference too whereas the d3s was much closer to reality.

Ill check the 1dx but I might not use a profile if it's close enough.

Click to expand...

I haven't used lightroom but to try out the beta firmware. This has nothing to do with LR. My tests have mostly been jpeg too. I havent processed my images in LR. As Viggo stated after me, he used his color checker and finds the 5d3 to be a massive improvement also.

HarryWintergreen said:

Again people, myself included, express their wish for a decent 400mm solution offered by Canon. I wished desperately Canon would listen carefully. So, I keep hoping for an upgrade of the 100-400 in the medium price range.

Click to expand...

To be fair, Canon has the most awesomest 400mm solution of them all, in the form of the newest 400 f/2.8. And the other 400 f/2.8s are all pretty darned nifty, as well.

Of course, if you want long, fast, light, and cheap, you'll never be satisfied. But they've got the long, fast, and not-quite-so-absurdly-heavy market all to themselves. Everything else anybody offers will be a compromise of some sort...it might be lighter, but it won't be as fast and the IQ won't be as good, though it'll probably be cheaper (unless they go the DO route). Or, it'll be as fast and lighter and cheaper, but not as long...and they'll call it the 300 f/2.8. You get the idea.

b&

Just curious, is it really necessary to put screen protector on both LCD's? What advantages and dis...? How scratch resistant the LCD is? Any opinions or some experience?

LifeAfter said:

Thank you everyone for your answers, i get it.
CF remains the best for speed,
what a pity that Canon restricted the SD speed (?!*ç/+&)

Click to expand...

Lol
I couldn't have said it better " (?!*ç/+&)"

Musouka said:

It's a real joke

I saw this before once but quickly dismissed it after seeing that the page was exactly the same as the C300 one (evident by the camera body pictured).

Click to expand...

+1

Not credible. Just make the 1DC for the same price as the 1DX and we'll be happy

Does anyone know if there are any body only in stock at Norman? Got a wedding and baptism coming up by the end of this month and first week of the next and hoping to use the 5D3 as primary with the 60D as backup ;D

Unless a box is completely mangled in shipping, there is no concern about receiving a damaged camera. The 5d3 is tough as nails.

Any rumors, rumblings, hints or thoughts on the 200-400 being available for the Olympics? The London Olympics that is....
I would hope Canon is doing everything in their power to get the 200-400 and 1Dx out soon.

got the lens to the store, and they were able to confirm that indeed the aperture blades were getting stuck, as the ring got turned - so it's not a camera or shooting technique issue.

The lens needs to be send for servicing, more exactly lubricated.

The few shots I took, they did come out sharp and with a nice IQ, but now I question the reliability of this lens. Is not too old, and cosmetically, looks like a 9.5.
So, I suspect it can happen any given time to annyone - maybe storage temperatures do play a role, or is just a poor quality control.

How many of you gel your speedlites to match ambient lighting at indoor event shoots?

I normally do not gel at events, but then again my past event work has typically been in low-light environments where ambient lighting isn't an issue. However, I shot an event in a ballroom the other day, and the results look hideously "point-and-shoot"-ish. Meaning, the people are all balanced to flash, but the background is that hideous orange tungsten glow. To make matters worse, the walls were all wallpapered a deep yellow-ish orange hue, so the contrast in color balance is extremely obvious, and makes the photos look atrociously amateur.

I started painting in a white balance correction in Lightroom on the background, but then realized I didn't have the time to do it on 200 photos. I'm chalking this up as a lesson learned, and if I had to do it again I'd definitely gel with a CTO correction. Do many of you do this in environments with heavy tungsten lighting?

Random Orbits said:

That is the reason why I ended up getting a 35L. IS may help you hold the camera steadier, but it doesn't help much if the kids are moving. Having a lens that is 2 stops faster gives much better odds at nonblurry shots, when you can shoot at 1/60-1/30.

Click to expand...

IS can also help your autofocus in continuous shooting and can help you compose better on fast moving subjects. Also, 2 stops faster may mean only 6 inches or less of depth of field with kids. I had to re-adjust my shooting when I had a baby. Typically I could shoot a head shot at f/2.8 with the whole head in focus...on a kid they are so small that a head shot at f/2.8 barely picks up both eyes. You may need those extra 2 stops to get everything in focus. I love having the faster lenses though when I am further away from my subjects but generally, anything larger than f/2.8 for anything other than far away shots with a wide angle is about as open as I can shoot unless I only want an eye in focus. Everything has a trade off

I would not like this, at all, hopefully fixable in firmware.

daniemare said:

- On a crop body, 70-200 will be an unlikely choice for indoor use (where the IS makes up a bit for the F4).

Click to expand...

I agree, the 70-200 has only ever been used outdoors at events and the like for me on a crop body. That may change this year with the new FF though, time will tell.

I have never had this problem with my copy of this lens, either on my 7D or 5DII. Excellent lens all around.

Thanks R.O. for your suggestions.

I had that problem on the past, and was me pressing the depth of field test button that is in a place that a person with a bug hand can press without notice it.... But after. Got used to it, all goes fine, no lock ups, and I have being shooting hundreds sof them in that mode.

Don't put too much in the 2 kinds of people, it was just to point out that some people are buying their gear because they love gear and have a passion for photography as well. While other people doesn't really care about gear, but love photography.

I believe most people know someone who picks up the tool, nomatter which one, and gets great results with it nomatter what. Then there are the more gear oriented people who need the best gear available or they think they can't produce.

Also as I said, most (if not all) people fall somewhere in between the two and some more or less to the extremes.

I still believe anyone saying the 5D mk III is crap due to sensor performance is more of a gearhead than a photographer. I also belive that anyone saying that performance doesn't matter because any camera in the last 5 years are sufficient are more photographer than gearhead. I'm not saying one is better than the other (I even said that I'm a bit biased towards gearhead myself), I'm just saying this probably is the reason why 2 fronts cannot agree on anything even though they've been debating very hefty the last month.

Basically what I wanted to say is that all the arguing is pointless, people will buy what they feel is the camera for them. Who is right, who is wrong? I believe those that are wrong are the ones buying a camera without considerring their needs are, no matter which camera it is. Same thing the other way around, everyone who has made a well-considerred decision are right, no matter what camera they end up with, because they bought what they needed.

I see: thanks. In the meanwhile the thread has reappeared on the home page, though.

Have a look at the bottom of page 3 of this thread here I posted them to earlier.

These are at ISO 200, for the 5D2, 5D3, 7D and D800.
There's more info in the posting in the other thread but, quickly, they're from the +4 EV push, a further push (~+2EV on each) used to really bring up the visibility of the noise so you can easily see the large-scale patterns, then cropped to 600x400 so no additional scaling messes up the appearance of each.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=5845.msg111359

probably should have just started a new thread with these images instead but...
I'll post the whole whack of them on my website eventually.

Clean HDMI out would be pointless. The cripple on the 5D3 is the juvenile 3x3 pixel binning (and I think the binning orbits across four origins as a crude means of removing aliasing while blurring the image further) which would give you poor resolution even through clean HDMI. I can't believe the Digic 5+ can only manage such crude downscaling. It is a cripple, perhaps to protect a 5DC (Cinema, not Classic) to come. One hopes they don't cripple the stills features out of that so they don't cripple themselves right out of their main sales proposition (buy one camera for everything!).

Hey bro, i use a 5d1 and it is the exact same focus system as the 5d2. The 5d1 output is way better than the screen on the camera body reveals. Images are outstanding! I still use the 5d1 when i shoot weddings but it is like 200 shots not 1000 like my 1dsm3. I now own the 5dm3, now the 1dm3 is the backup and the two 5ds will get the spotlight. The reason is the focus system. The 5d1 is really only good at center point focus. If you have time to compose or your subject is intended to be centered then its great but its not good for fast wedding work imo. The other thing about the 5d2 is the sensor and the sensor cleaner. The 5d1 has no sonic cleaner and it is a dust magnet. The 5d2 is way better for using a lot for that reason alone unless you like cleaning sensors for some reason. The sensor of the 5d2 is nice to be sure but honestly on my 5dm3 i don't like 27 mg raw files, i shoot tight not a cropper after the fact really, unless of course it is portraits then I leave room for 8x10 print options. If i shoot medium raw the buffer takes a hit so to me megapixels don't mean a ton. If you plan for the future FF lenses and bodies are the way to go.
Another thing to consider is i have heard of people getting refurbed 5dm2's from canon for $1500 which is a steal. I have bought two refurb lenses and they look brand new to me.